Build your bike

[D.M. Procida]

This may be old news to some of you, but:

<http://www.instructables.com/id/E2HZ9Q0OX3ES9J6CH6/?ALLSTEPS>

is a 23-page step-by-step guide to building a bike up from the frame.

Daniele
--
Consideration fact
* With the robot the grudge which is possible it knocks from most
shouting distance.
* It is short accurate and it knocks.

 

[David Martin]

D.M. Procida wrote:
> This may be old news to some of you, but:
>
> <http://www.instructables.com/id/E2HZ9Q0OX3ES9J6CH6/?ALLSTEPS>
>
> is a 23-page step-by-step guide to building a bike up from the frame.

So it is missing the first part -

Step 1. Elementary geology: Locate a good source of Iron ore near a
deciduous forest.
Step 2: Elementary metallurgy: Smelting Iron and making steel.

...d

 

[Ambrose Nankivell]

David Martin wrote:
> D.M. Procida wrote:
>> This may be old news to some of you, but:
>>
>> <http://www.instructables.com/id/E2HZ9Q0OX3ES9J6CH6/?ALLSTEPS>
>>
>> is a 23-page step-by-step guide to building a bike up from the frame.
>
> So it is missing the first part -
>
> Step 1. Elementary geology: Locate a good source of Iron ore near a
> deciduous forest.
> Step 2: Elementary metallurgy: Smelting Iron and making steel.
>
Rather more drastic is the blase attitude to fitting a headset. Just squeeze
it in with a couple of large washers.

Not that I think the method's wrong, but it should definitely come with a
warning to be extremely sure that you've got it lined up straight.

A

 

[Rob Morley]

In article <[email protected]>
Ambrose Nankivell <firstname+'n'@gmail.com> wrote:
> David Martin wrote:
> > D.M. Procida wrote:
> >> This may be old news to some of you, but:
> >>
> >> <http://www.instructables.com/id/E2HZ9Q0OX3ES9J6CH6/?ALLSTEPS>
> >>
> >> is a 23-page step-by-step guide to building a bike up from the frame.
> >
> > So it is missing the first part -
> >
> > Step 1. Elementary geology: Locate a good source of Iron ore near a
> > deciduous forest.
> > Step 2: Elementary metallurgy: Smelting Iron and making steel.
> >
> Rather more drastic is the blase attitude to fitting a headset. Just squeeze
> it in with a couple of large washers.
>
> Not that I think the method's wrong, but it should definitely come with a
> warning to be extremely sure that you've got it lined up straight.
>
Whacking on the crown race with an adjustable spanner is pretty brutal
too - you can break it like that. Actually if it's too tight a fit you
can break it even using the proper tool.

 

[RG]

"Ambrose Nankivell" <firstname+'n'@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> David Martin wrote:
>> D.M. Procida wrote:
>>> This may be old news to some of you, but:
>>>
>>> <http://www.instructables.com/id/E2HZ9Q0OX3ES9J6CH6/?ALLSTEPS>
>>>

>>
> Rather more drastic is the blase attitude to fitting a headset. Just
> squeeze it in with a couple of large washers.
>
> Not that I think the method's wrong, but it should definitely come with a
> warning to be extremely sure that you've got it lined up straight.
>
> A

..... the two washers and bit of studding works fine if you put 2 rubber door
stops on the studding to sit in the headset cups in order to keep the
studding central in the headtube and thus pull the cups in square.

RG

 

[Alex]

D.M. Procida wrote:
> This may be old news to some of you, but:
>
> <http://www.instructables.com/id/E2HZ9Q0OX3ES9J6CH6/?ALLSTEPS>
>
> is a 23-page step-by-step guide to building a bike up from the frame.

Nice nose wipe on sleeve in step 18.

-Alex

 

[lardyninja]

D.M. Procida wrote:
> This may be old news to some of you, but:
>
> <http://www.instructables.com/id/E2HZ9Q0OX3ES9J6CH6/?ALLSTEPS>
>
> is a 23-page step-by-step guide to building a bike up from the frame.
>


Or build yersel a loverly laid-back bike
http://www.dutchbikes.nl/bodies_uk/frame_ks2.htm

LN

 

[Pyromancer]

lardyninja wrote:

> Or build yersel a loverly laid-back bike
> http://www.dutchbikes.nl/bodies_uk/frame_ks2.htm

I wonder how feasable it would be to build one of those with a Rollhoff
hub? Having commuted on my 7-speed Gazelle for several months now,
I've come to the conclusion that deraileurs really are the work of Stan
and hub gears are the One True Way.

I've an old racer with rusted out wheels and chain in the basement that
I was on the verge of chucking out, but I might just bin all the
wrecked bits and keep the frame. Has anyone here had any experience of
one of these kits?

 

[Nigel Cliffe]

Pyromancer wrote:
> lardyninja wrote:
>
>> Or build yersel a loverly laid-back bike
>> http://www.dutchbikes.nl/bodies_uk/frame_ks2.htm
>
> I wonder how feasable it would be to build one of those with a
> Rollhoff hub?

You'd need a chain tensioner (eg. derraileur without any shifting
capability) to compensate for the changes in chain length caused by the
suspension.

Otherwise, its just a matter of attaching your hub to the rear triangle,
with the usual collection of tension arms, etc.

(No, I haven't built one).

- Nigel


--
Nigel Cliffe,
Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/

 

[Simon Brooke]

in message <[email protected]>, Nigel Cliffe
('[email protected]') wrote:

> Pyromancer wrote:
>> lardyninja wrote:
>>
>>> Or build yersel a loverly laid-back bike
>>> http://www.dutchbikes.nl/bodies_uk/frame_ks2.htm
>>
>> I wonder how feasable it would be to build one of those with a
>> Rollhoff hub?
>
> You'd need a chain tensioner (eg. derraileur without any shifting
> capability) to compensate for the changes in chain length caused by the
> suspension.

If you put an under-and-over chain roller coaxial with the suspension
pivot, you probably wouldn't have to. Just a thought...

--
[email protected] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

;; Conservatives are not necessarily stupid,
;; but most stupid people are conservatives -- J S Mill

 

[Dave Larrington]

Simon Brooke wrote:

> If you put an under-and-over chain roller coaxial with the suspension
> pivot, you probably wouldn't have to. Just a thought...

Indeed. There was a chap - one Keith Davis - who had a Streetmachine GTe
set up thus at the BHPC's Reading race last weekend. He was indecently
rapid too...

--
Dave Larrington
<http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk>
Barley, barley, barley, world cruise. You never see a farmer on
a bike.

 

[sothach]

Nigel Cliffe wrote:
> Pyromancer wrote:
> > lardyninja wrote:
> >
> >> Or build yersel a loverly laid-back bike
> >> http://www.dutchbikes.nl/bodies_uk/frame_ks2.htm
> >
> > I wonder how feasable it would be to build one of those with a
> > Rollhoff hub?
>
> You'd need a chain tensioner (eg. derraileur without any shifting
> capability) to compensate for the changes in chain length caused by the
> suspension.

If you could find a suitable tandem frame for the sub-frame, you could
use an eccentric bottom bracket to tension the chain, like Thorn does
(chain tensioners are the work of Stan's brother).

It would also be worth filing, chopping and welding the drop-out so you
could use the OEM Speedhub with the little nubbin that obliviates the
need for a tension arm (the work of another member of Stan's close
family).

 

[Alan Braggins]

sothach wrote:
>Nigel Cliffe wrote:
>>
>> You'd need a chain tensioner (eg. derraileur without any shifting
>> capability) to compensate for the changes in chain length caused by the
>> suspension.
>
>If you could find a suitable tandem frame for the sub-frame, you could
>use an eccentric bottom bracket to tension the chain, like Thorn does
>(chain tensioners are the work of Stan's brother).

Thorn aren't compensating for changes in chain length with suspension.

 

[Rob Morley]

In article <[email protected]>
sothach <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Nigel Cliffe wrote:
> > Pyromancer wrote:
> > > lardyninja wrote:
> > >
> > >> Or build yersel a loverly laid-back bike
> > >> http://www.dutchbikes.nl/bodies_uk/frame_ks2.htm
> > >
> > > I wonder how feasable it would be to build one of those with a
> > > Rollhoff hub?
> >
> > You'd need a chain tensioner (eg. derraileur without any shifting
> > capability) to compensate for the changes in chain length caused by the
> > suspension.
>
> If you could find a suitable tandem frame for the sub-frame, you could
> use an eccentric bottom bracket to tension the chain, like Thorn does
>

Quite apart from the issue of suspension movement, tandems have the
eccentric on the front bottom bracket, so it's hard to see how you'd
make that work. Anyway, it would be silly to chop up a decent tandem
frame (cheap ones generally use a chain tensioner rather than an
eccentric) when you could just buy the shell and eccentric from a frame-
building supplier.

> It would also be worth filing, chopping and welding the drop-out so you
> could use the OEM Speedhub with the little nubbin that obliviates the
> need for a tension arm (the work of another member of Stan's close
> family).
>
Sounds like it would almost be easier to build your own recumbent from
scratch, saving 469 Euro.

 

[Wheelist]

Pyromancer wrote:
> lardyninja wrote:
>
>> Or build yersel a loverly laid-back bike
>> http://www.dutchbikes.nl/bodies_uk/frame_ks2.htm
>
> I wonder how feasable it would be to build one of those with a Rollhoff
> hub? Having commuted on my 7-speed Gazelle for several months now,
> I've come to the conclusion that deraileurs really are the work of Stan
> and hub gears are the One True Way.
>
> I've an old racer with rusted out wheels and chain in the basement that
> I was on the verge of chucking out, but I might just bin all the
> wrecked bits and keep the frame. Has anyone here had any experience of
> one of these kits?
>

No, but I've already started hacking a couple of frames to make one of
these.....

http://www.recycledrecumbent.com/

It should be cheaper than the one previously mentioned, as there are no
frame parts to purchase, but you know how things are - I'll probably
want some shiny new parts when it's finished. (don't hold your breath)

Wheelist