hopheadhippy said:
Hey all, I'm new to this and looking to make a new purchase. After a lot of research I have read pros and cons of both buying online and at my local shop. I can't seem to find anything at a local shop anywhere near the deals i am seeing online. Wondering if their is any real problem with buying online and if anyone can recommend a better deal for the price and build quality (though I know it's low end it is still quality entry level stuff from what Ive read) than this... http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fantom29_sport_xiii.htm I welcome any and all advice. Thanks in advance.
Up front, you need to be aware that the
[COLOR=0000FF]Motobecane Fantom29[/COLOR] has an
8-speed drivetrain vs. a 9-speed or 10-speed drivetrain ...
- Does that matter? Probably not for a "first" bike.
Regardless, that is probably where at least $50+ in the "retail" cost difference comes from when compared to an more-or-less comparable LBS bike that is
on sale ... The frame uses a comparatively
old-fashioned external headset with a Fork which has a non-tapered steerer ...
- Does that matter? I, for one, think THAT is better than a non-yet-standardized, tapered Fork + internal headset bearings. So, THAT is actually a [COLOR=008000]BIG PLUS[/COLOR] in-my-book. [COLOR=008000]Ditto[/COLOR] for the mundane English threaded BB shell.
FWIW. The
other-side-of-the-coin is that a lot of
newbies who buy entry level
TREKs[COLOR=FF0000]/[/COLOR]
etc. from a bike shop frequently end up ponying up MORE for another, better bike in the foreseeable future OR abandoning cycling ...
- So, is it better to save a couple of hundred dollars in the here-and-now to be used on a future bike? OR, is it better to spend that $200 ([COLOR=808080]just picking a random number[/COLOR]) on a set of 180mm cranks ([COLOR=808080]just another example[/COLOR]), now, which won't be available on that hypothetical TREK[COLOR=FF0000]/[/COLOR]whatever bike as a free component swap out? IMO, the difference between inexpensive ([COLOR=808080]e.g., Acera[/COLOR]) derailleurs & much nicer derailleurs ([COLOR=808080]SLX to XTR[/COLOR]) is mostly material ([COLOR=808080]steel instead of alloy[/COLOR]) & finish AND as long as the less expensive components are maintained ([COLOR=808080]kept lubed ([COLOR=FF0000]NOT allowed to rust!![/COLOR]) & adjusted[/COLOR]) ... THAT speaks very well for Shimano's derailleurs, IMO. MY concern with the particular MOTOBECANE Fantom29 is the "quality" of the suspension fork for the terrain you anticipate that you will be riding on. I presume that one of your buddies has a 29er[COLOR=008000]/[/COLOR]26er and that your intention is to ride with them on whatever trails are in your neck-of-the-woods ... So, IMO, you need to figure out if that SunTour Suspension Fork is good-or-not for the type of riding conditions you expect to encounter AND, especially, if the fork on that hypothetical TREK[COLOR=FF0000]/[/COLOR]whatever will be comparably adequate-or-inadequate If I had to guess, sight unseen, I would guess that the SunTour crankset has steel chainrings and is really porky AND uses a square taper BB. PORKY is good if you are using the bike as a commuter because it diminishes the likelihood that it will be stolen unless the crackhead is so out of it that s/he can't tell the difference. The crankset can be replaced ... [COLOR=FF0000]It will cost as much to upgrade/update the bike from an 8-speed drivetrain to a 10-speed as from a 9-speed drivetrain to a 10-speed drivetain.[/COLOR] Heck, you may decide that you want a trendy 2x10 or trendier 1x10 drivetrain!
BTW. There is
no assurance of getting a properly sized bike from a bike shop. And, after a few rides/months, you may find out that you are a VERY AGGRESSIVE rider & then you may want a smaller frame in the future ... Also, while you should expect the same quality of service from your LBS as
oldbobcat provides his customers, there is no assurance that you will receive it. BTW. The difference between a really nice Hardtail frame made of aluminum & a less expensive aluminum Hardtail frame is usually in the finish of the welds ...
- ... a trivial matter, IMO; but, of extreme importance for some.
I don't think that a Hardtail's frame contributes that much difference to the ride. Others may disagree.
- So, assess the components on ALL of the bikes you are considering .... entry-level AND potential future bike "upgrades" ...
Will the $1000+ bike have a better Fork than the Bikes Direct bike would have if you get the FOX or MARZOCCHI or
whatever-brand Fork that you might possibly put on your Motobecane as an alternate[COLOR=FF0000]/[/COLOR]replacement for the SunTour Suspension Fork?
- Heck, you may decide that you want a Rigid Fork!
Will the $1000+ bike have better derailleurs than the Shimano SLX (?) derailleurs you eventually put on the Bikes Direct Motobecane? Will you be "okay" with whatever crankset comes on the $1000+ bike OR will you have to replace it? What about the Motobecane's disc brake calipers which I presume are cable-actuated vs. hydraulic brake calipers?
- MY preference would actually be for cable-actuated disc brake calipers ([COLOR=808080]which I may be mistaken in believing are lower maintenance[/COLOR]). I suspect that many other people would prefer having hydraulic disc brake calipers ... The pads on hydraulic calipers close symmetrically ... a good thing, but ...
In the end, will you be able to re-sell the entry level
TREK[COLOR=FF0000]/[/COLOR]
whatever for enough to make up the cost difference from the Motobecane?
While it will probably be easier to re-sell an entry level Trek than the Motobecane should the day ever come when you feel a need for a new bike, will the future amount received be that much ([COLOR=FF00000]bikes depreciate at a more horrendous rate than automobiles!!![/COLOR])?!?