Campy Right Ergo Overhaul Success!

[Kenny Lee]

Was very reluctant to overhaul my right ergo, but after
yesterday's ride the shifting just became too mushy. I
bought what was suggested as the bare minimum of replacement
parts to bring my ergo back to "smooth as butta" state some
3,000k ago. I kept putting the overhaul off because when
viewing the ergo parts schematic it looked as complicated as
doing a rubrics cube. Anyway the parts I had on hand were
the 2 G-springs, the thumb shifter coil spring and the coil
spring that works with the big paddle and does the down
shifting. Taking apart the ergo was easy. What really
surprised me was that the G-springs are just pushed into
place. I though that they were hinged in but they're not.
The next spring to put in was the thumb shifter spring, easy
as pie. The down shifter paddle spring was also easy but a
little tricky in getting the coil tight before bolting the
the complete assembly together. The whole operation took
about 40 minutes of which about 15 minutes were spent trying
to figure out how to get the down shifter paddle spring
coiled down with the proper tension. One last observation,
the click you hear when you shift I believe comes from the
G-springs engaging and disengaging and when they get "soft"
is when your shifting gets mushy. If so, maybe I didn't need
to replace the thumb shifter spring and the paddle down
shifter spring as I "think" that all they do is bring the
thumb shifter or the paddle shifter back to its original
start position. Could be wrong though. For those of you who
are worried about mucking up the ergo when DIYing all I can
say is just do it, it's easier than it looks.

Kenny Lee

 

[Pete Biggs]

Kenny Lee wrote:
> Was very reluctant to overhaul my right ergo, but after
> yesterday's ride the shifting just became too mushy. I
> bought what was suggested as the bare minimum of
> replacement parts to bring my ergo back to "smooth as
> butta" state some 3,000k ago. I kept putting the overhaul
> off because when viewing the ergo parts schematic it
> looked as complicated as doing a rubrics cube. Anyway the
> parts I had on hand were the 2 G-springs, the thumb
> shifter coil spring and the coil spring that works with
> the big paddle and does the down shifting. Taking apart
> the ergo was easy. What really surprised me was that the
> G-springs are just pushed into place. I though that they
> were hinged in but they're not. The next spring to put in
> was the thumb shifter spring, easy as pie. The down
> shifter paddle spring was also easy but a little tricky in
> getting the coil tight before bolting the the complete
> assembly together. The whole operation took about 40
> minutes of which about 15 minutes were spent trying to
> figure out how to get the down shifter paddle spring
> coiled down with the proper tension. One last observation,
> the click you hear when you shift I believe comes from the
> G-springs engaging and disengaging and when they get
> "soft" is when your shifting gets mushy. If so, maybe I
> didn't need to replace the thumb shifter spring and the
> paddle down shifter spring as I "think" that all they do
> is bring the thumb shifter or the paddle shifter back to
> its original start position. Could be wrong though. For
> those of you who are worried about mucking up the ergo
> when DIYing all I can say is just do it, it's easier than
> it looks.

I would recommend any first timer has a spare thumb spring
standing by because they are easy to damage when fitting by
those us less talented than Kenny!

~PB

 

[Bfd]

Kenny Lee <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Was very reluctant to overhaul my right ergo, but after
> yesterday's ride the shifting just became too mushy. I
> bought what was suggested as the bare minimum of
> replacement parts to bring my ergo back to "smooth as
> butta" state some 3,000k ago. I kept putting the overhaul
> off because when viewing the ergo parts schematic it
> looked as complicated as doing a rubrics cube. Anyway the
> parts I had on hand were the 2 G-springs, the thumb
> shifter coil spring and the coil spring that works with
> the big paddle and does the down shifting. Taking apart
> the ergo was easy. What really surprised me was that the
> G-springs are just pushed into place. I though that they
> were hinged in but they're not. The next spring to put in
> was the thumb shifter spring, easy as pie. The down
> shifter paddle spring was also easy but a little tricky in
> getting the coil tight before bolting the the complete
> assembly together. The whole operation took about 40
> minutes of which about 15 minutes were spent trying to
> figure out how to get the down shifter paddle spring
> coiled down with the proper tension. One last observation,
> the click you hear when you shift I believe comes from the
> G-springs engaging and disengaging and when they get
> "soft" is when your shifting gets mushy. If so, maybe I
> didn't need to replace the thumb shifter spring and the
> paddle down shifter spring as I "think" that all they do
> is bring the thumb shifter or the paddle shifter back to
> its original start position. Could be wrong though. For
> those of you who are worried about mucking up the ergo
> when DIYing all I can say is just do it, it's easier than
> it looks.
>
> Kenny Lee

Kenny states:

<The down shifter paddle spring was also easy but a little
tricky in getting the coil tight before bolting the the
complete assembly together. .... about 15 minutes were spent
trying to figure out how to get the down shifter paddle
spring coiled down with the proper tension.>

Can you explain how you got the proper tension to coil the
down shift paddle spring?

 

[Kenny Lee]

bfd wrote:

> Can you explain how you got the proper tension to coil the
> down shift paddle spring?

The spring part #EC-RE055 has an "L" shaped bend to it at it
innermost coil. This bit fits into a grooved slot in part
#EC-RE251. With part #EC-RE251 in place attach the spring to
it. Use a small screwdriver to push the coil at the hooked-
end of the coil clockwise to wind it up. If part # EC-RE251
was put in in the correct position relative to the post
where the coil spring is anchored onto with its hooked-end,
then proper tension will have been achieved when anchored.

A picture is worth more than a thousand words, so true in
this case. Just do it and you'll know what I mean.

Kenny Lee

 

[Qui Si Parla Ca]

bfd-<< Can you explain how you got the proper tension to
coil the down shift paddle spring? >><BR><BR>

After the back bolt is in the flats, shift it all the way to
the biggest cog position...then install the inside pin of
the spring in the 5 oclock position, wrap the spring to the
post, remove the bolt, replace the plate, bolt back
in..That way the tension of the back spring is the lowest
when you install/wind it up.

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali
costruite eccezionalmente bene"

 

[Pete Biggs]

bfd wrote:

> Can you explain how you got the proper tension to coil the
> down shift paddle spring?

http://www.velonews.com/tech/rev/levers.html

~PB