Can anyone identify my Suntour rd model?

[ddog]

http://www.dooberywhatsit.com//files/RSC-1-18-7-RearEnd.jpg

http://www.dooberywhatsit.com//files/RSC-1-18-7-RearEndClose.jpg

A knowledgeable Suntour vendor said he did not recognize the model and
don't know if it is
a bastardized model, or something worth messing with to revive. Its
real hard to shift now,
but the same vendor said my adjustements seemed off visually.

Forgive the rust from recent rain. My bag over it hid it from me for a
couple of weeks. I've at least oiled it after riding yesterday, and I
am asking experts now to see if worth a rebuilding/adjustment effort to
make current Suntour rd work better. I don't need gear shifting now,
and am trying to minimize unneeded maintenance efforts since there is
so much else to do reviving my old bike. As well, until shifting is on
top in my aerobar cockpit, shifting is not exactly comfortable anyway
on downtubes with my hornless saddle; so rd adjustment efforts would
wait until get aerobar Swift Shift project complete. I am within a
couple of weeks on completing Swift Shift project; and have all parts
now except maybe a couple of shifter boss washers fabricated or
purchased and a whole lot of custom integration of new parts. I may get
LBS to do final adjustments which would be another week added. Its
riding great now, so just as long as can ride every week, it can take a
long time without inconveniencing myself at all. Just keep getting
healthier, lol.

I appreciate all the expert gurus on this site who have helped me along
on what looked to be impossble at first!



Thanks!!

 

[Marcus Coles]

ddog wrote:
> http://www.dooberywhatsit.com//files/RSC-1-18-7-RearEnd.jpg
>
> http://www.dooberywhatsit.com//files/RSC-1-18-7-RearEndClose.jpg
>
> A knowledgeable Suntour vendor said he did not recognize the model and
> don't know if it is
> a bastardized model, or something worth messing with to revive. Its
> real hard to shift now,
> but the same vendor said my adjustements seemed off visually.
>
> Forgive the rust from recent rain. My bag over it hid it from me for a
> couple of weeks. I've at least oiled it after riding yesterday, and I
> am asking experts now to see if worth a rebuilding/adjustment effort to
> make current Suntour rd work better. I don't need gear shifting now,
> and am trying to minimize unneeded maintenance efforts since there is
> so much else to do reviving my old bike. As well, until shifting is on
> top in my aerobar cockpit, shifting is not exactly comfortable anyway
> on downtubes with my hornless saddle; so rd adjustment efforts would
> wait until get aerobar Swift Shift project complete. I am within a
> couple of weeks on completing Swift Shift project; and have all parts
> now except maybe a couple of shifter boss washers fabricated or
> purchased and a whole lot of custom integration of new parts. I may get
> LBS to do final adjustments which would be another week added. Its
> riding great now, so just as long as can ride every week, it can take a
> long time without inconveniencing myself at all. Just keep getting
> healthier, lol.
>
> I appreciate all the expert gurus on this site who have helped me along
> on what looked to be impossble at first!
>
>
>
> Thanks!!
>


A SunTour 7 rear derailleur.

IIRC a mid-range product from the 70's below the V and Cyclone models.

Good value and worked well compared with many derailleurs of the time,
almost any modern rear derailleur will work better.

Fairly common, nothing special unless one needs one for the restoration
of a later '70's mid-range bike.

Marcus

 

[ddog]

Marcus Coles wrote:
> A SunTour 7 rear derailleur.
>
> IIRC a mid-range product from the 70's below the V and Cyclone models.
>
> Good value and worked well compared with many derailleurs of the time,
> almost any modern rear derailleur will work better.
>
> Fairly common, nothing special unless one needs one for the restoration
> of a later '70's mid-range bike.
>
> Marcus

Marcus, thank you for the information. Its gratefully appreciated.

 

[A Muzi]

ddog wrote:
> http://www.dooberywhatsit.com//files/RSC-1-18-7-RearEnd.jpg
>
> http://www.dooberywhatsit.com//files/RSC-1-18-7-RearEndClose.jpg
>
> A knowledgeable Suntour vendor said he did not recognize the model and
> don't know if it is
> a bastardized model, or something worth messing with to revive. Its
> real hard to shift now,
> but the same vendor said my adjustements seemed off visually.
>
> Forgive the rust from recent rain. My bag over it hid it from me for a
> couple of weeks. I've at least oiled it after riding yesterday, and I
> am asking experts now to see if worth a rebuilding/adjustment effort to
> make current Suntour rd work better. I don't need gear shifting now,
> and am trying to minimize unneeded maintenance efforts since there is
> so much else to do reviving my old bike. As well, until shifting is on
> top in my aerobar cockpit, shifting is not exactly comfortable anyway
> on downtubes with my hornless saddle; so rd adjustment efforts would
> wait until get aerobar Swift Shift project complete. I am within a
> couple of weeks on completing Swift Shift project; and have all parts
> now except maybe a couple of shifter boss washers fabricated or
> purchased and a whole lot of custom integration of new parts. I may get
> LBS to do final adjustments which would be another week added. Its
> riding great now, so just as long as can ride every week, it can take a
> long time without inconveniencing myself at all. Just keep getting
> healthier, lol.

Suntour HonorGT or SevenGT or similar low-end '70s changer.

It has virtually no value (sold new for $6) so if it works, use it. When
it doesn't, replace it. A current changer of better design, same
quality, is $14.95
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

 

[ddog]

A Muzi wrote:
> Suntour HonorGT or SevenGT or similar low-end '70s changer.
>
> It has virtually no value (sold new for $6) so if it works, use it. When
> it doesn't, replace it. A current changer of better design, same
> quality, is $14.95
> --
> Andrew Muzi
> www.yellowjersey.org
> Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Andrew,

So for an older bike with a IRD 5 speed used for friction shifting on
street, is it correct that:
new Jap derailleur is better than Suntour Cyclone GT is better than
Suntour VGT?

I am unaware of large leaps of technology in rear derailleurs and it
seems like most rd now just
refine to each companies index system shifters and 10 speed accuracy.
It also seems, friction shifting is just a side note usually:
"Oh yeah, its great for friction shifting too". For example, 10 speeds,
which is MOST new bikes, components from chain to rear dearailleur to
rear cassette are very small width bands for components. So I can see
where they may be more exact for racers, but its hard to understand why
they would be as durable and/or reliable on the road. Reliability means
something to a BMW motorcycle owner any way.

This is a fine line of understanding I realize, but sometimes precision
improvements for indexing and 10 thin speeds don't justify the
maintenance, obsolecense, or downtime for older bikes that don't use
the features that contribute the most to its cost base. And in fact,
they seem to be worse in some regards for lower speed friction shifting
owners. Of course, I know most people race theirs so none of this would
matter to them. So I am asking these questions from a limited sample of
the total riding population.


Thanks,
Phil Bailey

 

[A Muzi]

> A Muzi wrote:
>> Suntour HonorGT or SevenGT or similar low-end '70s changer.
>> It has virtually no value (sold new for $6) so if it works, use it. When
>> it doesn't, replace it. A current changer of better design, same
>> quality, is $14.95


ddog wrote:
> So for an older bike with a IRD 5 speed used for friction shifting on
> street, is it correct that:
> new Jap derailleur is better than Suntour Cyclone GT is better than
> Suntour VGT?
>
> I am unaware of large leaps of technology in rear derailleurs and it
> seems like most rd now just
> refine to each companies index system shifters and 10 speed accuracy.
> It also seems, friction shifting is just a side note usually:
> "Oh yeah, its great for friction shifting too". For example, 10 speeds,
> which is MOST new bikes, components from chain to rear dearailleur to
> rear cassette are very small width bands for components. So I can see
> where they may be more exact for racers, but its hard to understand why
> they would be as durable and/or reliable on the road. Reliability means
> something to a BMW motorcycle owner any way.
>
> This is a fine line of understanding I realize, but sometimes precision
> improvements for indexing and 10 thin speeds don't justify the
> maintenance, obsolecense, or downtime for older bikes that don't use
> the features that contribute the most to its cost base. And in fact,
> they seem to be worse in some regards for lower speed friction shifting
> owners. Of course, I know most people race theirs so none of this would
> matter to them. So I am asking these questions from a limited sample of
> the total riding population.


Well, I didn't suggest a Ti-Carbon Record. A modern stamped-steel or
steel-nylon changer (Tourney) just incorporates 40 years of advanced
thinking for the same or less (NPV) dollars. Tourney are the current
replacement changer for 5-6-7sp bikes.

Don't cry when yours wears out.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

 

[ddog]

A Muzi wrote:

> Well, I didn't suggest a Ti-Carbon Record. A modern stamped-steel or
> steel-nylon changer (Tourney) just incorporates 40 years of advanced
> thinking for the same or less (NPV) dollars. Tourney are the current
> replacement changer for 5-6-7sp bikes.
>
> Don't cry when yours wears out.
>
> --
> Andrew Muzi
> www.yellowjersey.org
> Open every day since 1 April, 1971


OK, Thanks Andrew, I understand better now.