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Carbon wheels

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Cycling Equipment
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1 September 2010
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20 January 2011
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ScottSugi
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  1. I am ready to upgrade to a new wheel set. I am riding approx 20-40 miles per day, hills, mountains and flat. I plan on doing more group training rides and some crit and/or road racing next year. My LBS told me i might not want to buy a 100% carbon rim for training because the carbon will wear quickly from all of the braking. Im not sure if a aluminum/carbon combo wheel should be the way to go or maybe a all aluminum wheel like the ROL RACE SL would be a good all round wheel. I am currently on Roval 322 Roubaix wheels. Please, I need input😕

  2. If you're thinking about getting into racing, my advice is to wait until you have a few races under your belt and have survived the obligatory Cat 5 crashes before investing in carbon wheels.

    Many high level racers still ride aluminum rims for everyday training because they can take a beating better.

  3. I agree with your LBS, full carbon rims are overkill for training and are pretty expensive for a day in and day out wheelset and not the best in terms of braking performance when wet.

    Personally I've gone back to aluminum braking surface for all of my wheelsets except the race day TT wheels. I've had good luck with the Zipp clinchers with alloy braking surfaces but really like full alloy rims like American Classic 420s, Kinlin, and DT Swiss RR1.1 or RR1.2 rims. The AC 420s in particular are light, aero, bombproof and affordable a combination that's hard to find in full carbon rims. They're my go to road racing rims though I've got a set of alloy tubulars for crits.

    Nothing wrong with full carbon if you've got the cash, don't mind swapping brake pads on race day and are happy with the braking performance but you don't need to go to full carbon to get very nice race wheels.

    Good luck,
    -Dave

    ScottSugi said:

    I am ready to upgrade to a new wheel set. I am riding approx 20-40 miles per day, hills, mountains and flat. I plan on doing more group training rides and some crit and/or road racing next year. My LBS told me i might not want to buy a 100% carbon rim for training because the carbon will wear quickly from all of the braking. Im not sure if a aluminum/carbon combo wheel should be the way to go or maybe a all aluminum wheel like the ROL RACE SL would be a good all round wheel. I am currently on Roval 322 Roubaix wheels. Please, I need input😕

  4. Eww. Makes sense. It would make sense to be more worried about a broken arm than a broken rim.

  5. daveryanwyoming said:

    I agree with your LBS, full carbon rims are overkill for training and are pretty expensive for a day in and day out wheelset and not the best in terms of braking performance when wet.

    Personally I've gone back to aluminum braking surface for all of my wheelsets except the race day TT wheels. I've had good luck with the Zipp clinchers with alloy braking surfaces but really like full alloy rims like American Classic 420s, Kinlin, and DT Swiss RR1.1 or RR1.2 rims. The AC 420s in particular are light, aero, bombproof and affordable a combination that's hard to find in full carbon rims. They're my go to road racing rims though I've got a set of alloy tubulars for crits.

    Nothing wrong with full carbon if you've got the cash, don't mind swapping brake pads on race day and are happy with the braking performance but you don't need to go to full carbon to get very nice race wheels.

    Good luck,
    -Dave


    Thanks Dave. The ACs are a great looking rim and priced right. Looks like a great all-rounder.

  6. I pulled this thread out since it's exactly why I am fighting with myself about. I definitely want to upgrade my wheels from the heavy stock Mavic CXP22's I got now. Not in any rush, so I've been searching LBS' and the internet for a while now.

    I was (and still kind of am) afraid of getting full carbon because of the Massachusetts 'carbon-friendly' roads we have, where it's inevitable to hit some hole or crack that will send chills down your back. My main use will be everyday training rides, and weekend racing. I guess I'm not as afraid of crashing them or the braking part, but the durability of them and hitting them on a pot hole in the road.

    However, I have found the Reynolds Attack wheels, which are full carbon and weigh ~1450g, for $699. I've read some reviews, with most rating 4 of 5, but one rated 1 of 5, saying after 8 months the rear wheel bulged and almost killed the guy coming down a canyon road. He said he talked to LBS and even Reynolds, and they admitted it happened before.

    What do I take from this ?

    Thanks for any insight to carbon wheels vs. others.

    -Greg.

  7. Quoted post said:

    Originally Posted by daveryanwyoming [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

    I agree with your LBS, full carbon rims are overkill for training and are pretty expensive for a day in and day out wheelset and not the best in terms of braking performance when wet.

    Personally I've gone back to aluminum braking surface for all of my wheelsets except the race day TT wheels. I've had good luck with the Zipp clinchers with alloy braking surfaces but really like full alloy rims like American Classic 420s, Kinlin, and DT Swiss RR1.1 or RR1.2 rims. The AC 420s in particular are light, aero, bombproof and affordable a combination that's hard to find in full carbon rims. They're my go to road racing rims though I've got a set of alloy tubulars for crits.

    [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

    the roads in my riding areas are literally falling apart . I am rolling with some zipp 303's currently ( carbon w/ aluminum braking surface ) but not without concern . love these wheels but I am afraid of damaging them ., and if I did , there's no way I could justify replacing them with a new set or even just an individual wheel at what they cost . I am also considering a new wheelset ( aluminum ) but don't know exactly where to start . all that comes to mind is - 1 ) I don't want to compromise speed and that's my main concern. 2 ) excellent hill climbing wheelset .3 ) durability / quality . I am a stickler for excellence - my Mercedes Benz taste with a Volkswagon budget is killing me these days . American classics , Mavic's , Shimano's - I just don't know .SOMEBODY CHIME IN WITH SOME GOOD INFO .

  8. I pulled this thread out since it's exactly why I am fighting with myself about. I definitely want to upgrade my wheels from the heavy stock Mavic CXP22's I got now. Not in any rush, so I've been searching LBS' and the internet for a while now.

    I was (and still kind of am) afraid of getting full carbon because of the Massachusetts 'carbon-friendly' roads we have, where it's inevitable to hit some hole or crack that will send chills down your back. My main use will be everyday training rides, and weekend racing. I guess I'm not as afraid of crashing them or the braking part, but the durability of them and hitting them on a pot hole in the road.

    However, I have found the Reynolds Attack wheels, which are full carbon and weigh ~1450g, for $699. I've read some reviews, with most rating 4 of 5, but one rated 1 of 5, saying after 8 months the rear wheel bulged and almost killed the guy coming down a canyon road. He said he talked to LBS and even Reynolds, and they admitted it happened before.

    What do I take from this ?

    Thanks for any insight to carbon wheels vs. others.

    -Greg.

  9. Greg -
    Not sure what info I can give you that would help with your decision - I have just one season's worth of experience with "carbon" wheels on MA.New England roads. Mine are Zipp 404 clinchers (alu brake surface). Have ridden them all around metro Boston, RI, and ME on solo and group rides without any issues. I am more cautious with them vs Ksyriums -slow for RR tracks and extra focus on road ahead, but other than that nohting special. Haven't banged through any major potholes so far (thankfully).

    A number of riders on the CRW Saturday morning fitness ride (Newtown) and Landry group rides sport carbon wheels - full carbon and carbon/alu. Mostly Zipp, Reynolds, and Bontrager. Some Easton. No knowledge of the lifespan they are getting out of them. I have a friend who is a Revolution team sponsored athlete and he now rides carbon exclusively for road/cyclocross. He was riding Zipp, but recently sold his last set. No reports of trashed wheelsets, but last season was cut short by injury, unfortunately.

    I like my carbon wheels - smoothness of the hubs first and foremost and road noise is nicely muted. There is a definite areo advantage above 20+mph, but not one that is going to suddenly make anyone a pro tour contender.

  10. Thank you so much, I was hoping you'd chime in given your NE experience. The price for these Reynolds Attacks is really attractive at $699, but even $699 is not peanuts if something breaks. I'll give it some more thought, and the best option I think would be the alum/carbon combo you have. The 404's are on the top of the $$ wheels, so I wouldn't go that high, but something inbetween, or even the Reynolds Solitude w/out carbon are a nice set. Although for that extra $100 I get Attacks.

    Man, this isn't easy !!!

    Thanks,
    -Greg

  11. I went through a similar process. Easy to drive yourself crazy trying to decide which wheels, is the cost worth it, etc. I demo'ed the 404s and was immediately impressed with the smoothness of the hubs and lack of road noise coming through my handlebars. Just made my ride that much sweeter. It was then that I decided carbon wheels were for me.

    My Revolution sponsored bud almost had me talked into Rev 27x, but at the time I was rolling at 208lbs which was above their 200lb limit. (Now 185-190 on any given day) Friend told me I'd be fine, but I also wanted a section deeper than 27mm and to get that with Revolution it had to be tubular. Not ready for the extra work of tubulars yet. The 27mm wheel was tempting, and for the price $550 you get Sapim CX-ray spokes, plus a reasonable 5 year replacement deal at a cost of $300 for any reason. He admits the hubs on the Revs aren't quite Zipp smooth - but darn close.

    Then I found a "reasonable" way to get into the 404s. Zipp built a 404 special edition using the 88/188 hubs from 2009 (?) and non-dimpled 505 rims. Still strung with the Sapim CX-ray spokes. One of the UK shops was clearing them out for $1,000 delivered and I had a credit with them already, so that was my in. Dimples aren't going to do much for my riding, but I did get the sweet ride which was my primary objective.

    If you can find any way to demo wheels first, it might make your decision easier. Always better to try before you buy.

  12. That's a sweet setup and deal you got. I'm in the same boat as far as trying to get the best bang for my buck, and so far the Reynolds are 1st in line. I need to do some more extensive research on the R. Attacks, and that one review of near-death experience is bugging me. Now you know how the roads can be around here. I typically ride in the Topsfield/Andover area, and for the most part I can get away with riding without much or any pothole smashing, but there are those unavoidable situations that would scare me with a full carbon wheelset. I'll try to research what the stress/impact limit is for them.

    Getting to demo the wheels is definitely a nice assurance to have, and I'll look to see if I can find that around here.

    Thanks,
    -Greg

    P.S.- Any Well's Ave. for you this year ?

  13. Reynolds has a wheel demo program going at selected dealers; I noticed the signs up at my LBS here last week. Good for Reynolds in spending the money to allow test rides of their products. Here's a list of participating dealers: reynoldscycling.comindex.php

  14. Oh nice DHK2 !! Thanks for that link. Belmont Wheelworks is only 20 mins away from me.

    Thanks sitz, and dhk.

    -Greg

  15. Quoted post said:

    Originally Posted by gman0482 [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

    P.S.- Any Well's Ave. for you this year ?

    Sounds like dhk has you steered in the right direction. Have fun with it!

    Didn't know about Well's. Maybe not a place for an old man like me to hang around, but sounds fun. Will look into it. Thanks.

  16. gman this is getting to be quite interesting. Just wait until you pull the plug and have to decide on some tires.[IMG]/img/vbsmilies/smilies/icon14.gif[/IMG]

  17. LOL, I'll use my still-kinda-new Conti 4000s' I guess.

  18. Yet another wheel question, (I promise to buy a wheelset within this month, so I'll stop bugging).

    I found a nice set of Easton EA90 SL, at $460, but the hub description reads: Shimano 10-speed Dura Ace Only.
    So that wouldn't be ok for 105 ? and if not, how hard/cheap is it to change it up.

    If it's not so difficult and/or not expensive to switch out hubs, how about a wheelset that comes with Campy ? Just found a set of Easton EC70 Carbons, for a nice deal.

    Sorry to bug, and thank you,
    -Greg

  19. Again not a lot of info I can provide .. just a couple of seasons into riding. But, I did explore Easton as an option when looking for a new wheelset. Generally good reviews and discussions with others. Hubs and spokes seemed to draw the most debate. Spokes not as aero if that is important. Hubs are the VeloMax of old, which were well regarded (according to the people I spoke with), but some complained of problems with the R4 hub preload adjustment that was an upgrade to the non-adjustable R3 hubs. Bearing upgrades were suggested for the Easton hubs when I talked about Zipp "smoothness".

    Never demo'ed them, so no actual experience.

  20. Correction: I believe the DA hub has a taller spline pattern than a standard 10-sp shimano/sram cassette, so will not work with 103 cassette. I don't know if there is an option for swap. If there is, hub bodies usually run $50-$100 plus labor if you're not going to install.

    Sounds like the EA's are built iwth a DA hub?

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