Chains

Keith Willoughby said:

Been reading Zinn. I want to take my chain off to put it
in some degreaser, and I have a chain tool. Zinn mentions
the special Shimano subpin, but doesn't tell me how to
tell which type of chain I have. How do I tell?

Get a SRAM chain and use their Powerlink or simply push any
pin out to beak the chain and back in to rejoin

"Keith Willoughby" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Been reading Zinn. I want to take my chain off to put it
in some degreaser, and I have a chain tool. Zinn mentions
the special Shimano subpin, but doesn't tell me how to
tell which type of chain I have. How do I tell?

--
Keith Willoughby flat222.orgkeithOpen ↗ "We sang Cwm
Rhondda and Delilah, Damn, they sounded both the same"

I think that Shimano only have one type of subpin. This is
the pin where you are supposed to snap the chain, and
replace it. However, the truth is, they are bloody hard to
find out which one is the subpin. They go back in easy
enough. I have had several Shimano chains snap on me because
I did not use the subpin- just wanged a normal pin.

HTH

Simon

Keith Willoughby said:

Been reading Zinn. I want to take my chain off to put it
in some degreaser, and I have a chain tool. Zinn mentions
the special Shimano subpin, but doesn't tell me how to
tell which type of chain I have. How do I tell?

If it is an HG chain (most are), remove any pin *except* a
plain black one. When refitting use a new joining pin, which
you push in with a chain tool until you feel it "click" then
snap off the protruding end with a chain tool.

However, when you see the price of the joining pins you'll
buy a SRAM chain instead and throw away the Shimano one.
For anything up to 8 speed the SRAM chains, with
conventional re-usable links, are perfectly good. 9 speed
is more fussy IME, and I have to use a proper Dura-Ace
chain on my race bike.

Simon said:

"Keith Willoughby" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Been reading Zinn. I want to take my chain off to put it
in some degreaser, and I have a chain tool. Zinn mentions
the special Shimano subpin, but doesn't tell me how to
tell which type of chain I have. How do I tell?

I think that Shimano only have one type of subpin.

I need to know which type of chain I have. They all look the
same to me
🙂

Quoted message said:

This is the pin where you are supposed to snap the chain,
and replace
it. However, the truth is, they are bloody hard to find
out which one is the subpin. They go back in easy
enough. I have had several Shimano chains snap on me
because I did not use the subpin- just wanged a normal
pin.

That's what Zinn says, otherwise I'd just pop out a pin
and use it again, without finding out which type of
chain I have.

--
Keith Willoughby flat222.orgkeithOpen ↗ "There was Riley
pushing it, shoving it, shushing it"

MSeries said:

Keith Willoughby said:

Been reading Zinn. I want to take my chain off to put it
in some degreaser, and I have a chain tool. Zinn mentions
the special Shimano subpin, but doesn't tell me how to
tell which type of chain I have. How do I tell?

Get a SRAM chain and use their Powerlink

I was hoping to avoid buying a new one. I've already spend
more than I was hoping buying stuff for the new hobby 🙂

Quoted message said:

or simply push any pin out to beak the chain and back in
to rejoin

Zinn cautions against this for Shimano chains, and I dunno
if I have a Shimano chain.

--
Keith Willoughby flat222.orgkeithOpen ↗ Oes gafr eto?

Keith Willoughby said:

MSeries said:

Keith Willoughby said:

Been reading Zinn. I want to take my chain off to put it
in some degreaser, and I have a chain tool. Zinn
mentions the special Shimano subpin, but doesn't tell me
how to tell which type of chain I have. How do I tell?

Get a SRAM chain and use their Powerlink

I was hoping to avoid buying a new one. I've already spend
more than I was hoping buying stuff for the new hobby 🙂

Quoted message said:

or simply push any pin out to beak the chain and back in
to rejoin

Zinn cautions against this for Shimano chains, and I dunno
if I have a Shimano chain.

Replacing chains before they are too worn will mean you
don't have to repalce a cassette so often. A SRAM PC59 costs
£9 at Parkers. I am afraid I haven't used a Shimano chain
for years so can't help with the original query.

MSeries said:

simply push any pin out to beak the chain and back in
to rejoin

This works, but the replaced pin is always going to be loose
and can eventually work its way out, e,g, during shifting.
If you always carry a chain tool this may be acceptable.

In message <[email hidden]>, Keith
Willoughby <[email hidden]> writes

Quoted message said:

MSeries said:

Keith Willoughby said:

Been reading Zinn. I want to take my chain off to put it
in some degreaser, and I have a chain tool. Zinn
mentions the special Shimano subpin, but doesn't tell me
how to tell which type of chain I have. How do I tell?

Get a SRAM chain and use their Powerlink

I was hoping to avoid buying a new one. I've already spend
more than I was hoping buying stuff for the new hobby 🙂

If it's Shimano then it' ll probably break anyway at
an inopportune time. Just put a decent chain on - they
are cheap.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

or simply push any pin out to beak the chain and back in
to rejoin

Zinn cautions against this for Shimano chains,

Many moons ago I had one of the Shimano chains with the
special pin. I carefully split the chain in the right place,
the bugger still broke :-( I still have a couple of spare
pins in the toolbox somewhere.

ISTR that the special pin is black - on clean chain fine, on
an average UK bike chain.....

Quoted message said:

and I dunno if I have a Shimano chain.

If the rest of the drive chain is Shimano it's a safe bet.
--
Chris French, Leeds

In message <408580e6.0@entanet>, Zog The Undeniable
<[email hidden]> writes

Quoted message said:

Keith Willoughby said:

Been reading Zinn. I want to take my chain off to put it
in some degreaser, and I have a chain tool. Zinn mentions
the special Shimano subpin, but doesn't tell me how to
tell which type of chain I have. How do I tell?

If it is an HG chain (most are), remove any pin *except* a
plain black one. When refitting use a new joining pin,
which you push in with a chain tool until you feel it
"click" then snap off the protruding end with a chain tool.

Ahh, yes that was it, i knew it was something to do with
black pins.
--
Chris French, Leeds

chris French said:

In message <[email hidden]>, Keith
Willoughby <[email hidden]> writes

Quoted message said:

I was hoping to avoid buying a new one. I've already spend
more than I was hoping buying stuff for the new hobby 🙂

If it's Shimano then it' ll probably break anyway at
an inopportune time. Just put a decent chain on - they
are cheap.

OK, it's unanimous. I'll buy an SRAM chain.

I just bought some degreaser, too.

--
Keith Willoughby flat222.orgkeithOpen ↗ "After my
experience, I have come to hate war. War settles nothing."
- Dwight D. Eisenhower

On Tue, 20 Apr 2004 21:34:23 +0100, in
<[email hidden]>, Keith Willoughby

Quoted message said:

chris French said:

In message <[email hidden]>, Keith
Willoughby <[email hidden]> writes

Quoted message said:

I was hoping to avoid buying a new one. I've already
spend more than I was hoping buying stuff for the new
hobby 🙂

If it's Shimano then it' ll probably break anyway at
an inopportune time. Just put a decent chain on - they
are cheap.

OK, it's unanimous. I'll buy an SRAM chain.

Wilkinson's Own Brand chain - £3.99
--
When one is on a bicycle, all roads lead to roam.
www.artybee.net (same [censored], different layout)

Zog The Undeniable said:

MSeries said:

simply push any pin out to beak the chain and back in
to rejoin

This works, but the replaced pin is always going to be
loose and can eventually work its way out, e,g, during
shifting. If you always carry a chain tool this may be
acceptable.

The only time a chain has failed for me has been a Shimano
one. I have never had a SRAM chain pin work its way out. I
do always carry a chain tool but never had to use it on my
own machines.

Keith Willoughby <[email hidden]> wrote:
: Been reading Zinn. I want to take my chain off to put it
: in some degreaser

Save your time and don't bother IMO.

a) Buy a whirly chain cleaner from Halfords (erm, yes,
because they do the realy cheap version)
b) use
c) Repeat
d) After one year/3000 miles or so, buy new chain
e) Repeat

I've just decided that my rear block is showing signs of
wear and should be retired. It's outlasted 4 chains and done
about 12,000 miles over 4 years. Though I should be honest
and say that's on a bike that's only used on the road from
Mar - Nov so doesn't get covered in salt.

My routine for my fixie is even simpler

f) ignore chain till it squeaks or is so minging it's
embarassing
g) Knock bits of crud off chain with a dry cloth. Maybe poke
at the big bits with a thin screwdriver
h) Oil
i) Ignore for next three months.

Don't try this on a bike with gears though 🙂

Arthur

--
Arthur Clune clune.orgclune.orgOpen ↗ "Technolibertarians make a
philosophy out of a personality defect"
- Paulina Borsook

Remember that Shimano is the microsoft of the cycling world, also that
shimano is the Japanese for wears out quickly. Try and use where ever
possible anything but.
"MSeries" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Zog The Undeniable said:

MSeries said:

simply push any pin out to beak the chain and back in
to rejoin

This works, but the replaced pin is always going to be
loose and can eventually work its way out, e,g, during
shifting. If you always carry a chain tool this may be
acceptable.

The only time a chain has failed for me has been a Shimano
one. I have

never

Quoted message said:

had a SRAM chain pin work its way out. I do always carry a
chain tool but never had to use it on my own machines.

Quoted message said:

I need to know which type of chain I have. They all look
the same to me

If your chain isn't too caked in goo, look on the side of a
link. If it is marked UG, HG or IG then it is a Shimano
chain. Anything else is not Shimano. I think HG is the most
likely marking you'll see. IG is rather unlikely because
that's a special narrow type of chain you get on top end
racers with ten-speed cassettes (please someone correct me
if I'm talking out of my [censored]). Do they even make UG stuff
any more, anyone?

Also, the rivet heads in a Shimano chain are slighty larger
than the hole, so when they are pushed through they enlarge
the hole - this is why you need a special oversized
replacement rivet with Shimano chains.

d.

Keith Willoughby said:

Quoted message said:

If it's Shimano then it' ll probably break anyway at
an inopportune time. Just put a decent chain on - they
are cheap.

OK, it's unanimous. I'll buy an SRAM chain.

No need! Shimano chains aren't thaaaat bad.

~PB

Keith Willoughby said:

Been reading Zinn. I want to take my chain off to put it
in some degreaser, and I have a chain tool. Zinn mentions
the special Shimano subpin, but doesn't tell me how to
tell which type of chain I have. How do I tell?

Full explaination, instructions, diagrams and pictures:

parktool.comFAQchnRe.shtmlOpen ↗

Zinn, get in the binn! ...No, that's not serious - I've
haven't read enough of his stuff to judge.

~PB

Keith Willoughby said:

MSeries said:

Get a SRAM chain and use their Powerlink

I was hoping to avoid buying a new one. I've already spend
more than I was hoping buying stuff for the new hobby 🙂

SRAM Powerlinks can be bought separately (50p - £2) and used
with Shimano chain, as long as the "speed" is correct. Let
me know if you use 9-speed chains (I have a spare used one
you can have for free).

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

or simply push any pin out to beak the chain and back in
to rejoin

Zinn cautions against this for Shimano chains, and I dunno
if I have a Shimano chain.

It's pushing back in that's the potential problem and this
won't be necessary if using a Powerlink.

~PB

Pete Biggs said:

Keith Willoughby said:

MSeries said:

Get a SRAM chain and use their Powerlink

I was hoping to avoid buying a new one. I've already
spend more than I was hoping buying stuff for the new
hobby 🙂

SRAM Powerlinks can be bought separately (50p - £2) and
used with Shimano chain, as long as the "speed" is
correct. Let me know if you use 9-speed chains (I have a
spare used one you can have for free).

7-speed. Thanks for the offer, though!

--
Keith Willoughby flat222.orgkeithOpen ↗ "Far be it
from thee to do such a thing, to slay the righteous with
the wicked"