Another thing....
It may be tempting to conclude that the squirming action helps us out,
because it helps tighten the crank without us stripping threads, etc.
This would be similar to a procedure that was advocated a couple of
years ago, which is to press the cranks on with a 20-ton press before
the wheel is built.
However, this is deceptively incorrect. As Mr. Brandt points out,
installing the cranks so that they are tighter simply leads to shorter
crank life. Long-term stress resolution in the crank leads to cracks in
the crank that do not appear upon installation.
If you install the cranks with the above procedure, you will not strip
the threads, whether they are internal (crank bolt) or external (crank
nut).
If you are following these instructions and using high-quality
components, and still having troubles that replacing the cranks does not
solve, then you should switch to a splined hub, where the interface is
stronger, but the hub/crank choices are fewer and the cost is higher.
Note: these installation procedures do not apply to splined hubs in any
way.
--
U-Turn - As long as my feet keep movin'...
Weep in the dojo... laugh on the battlefield.
'LiveWire Unicycles' (http://www.livewireunicycles.com)
'Strongest Coker Wheel in the World'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/albup39)
'29er Tire Study' (http://u-turn.unicyclist.com/29erTireStudy/)
'New York Unicycle Club' (http://www.newyorkunicycle.com)
-- Dave Stockton
------------------------------------------------------------------------
U-Turn's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/691
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/40478