> On 20 Jun 2003 14:50:37 -0700,
[email protected] (Keven Ruf) wrote:
> >It's 2003. Is the Dura Ace bottom bracket still giving people trouble? I searched the
> >newsgroup and found a few people complaining. Some responses seemed to sugges that the BB
> >itself is not bad, it's just not the cartridge BB like the Ultegra that you crank in hard and
> >forget about until it goes bad. You need to actually adjust the Dura Ace model. That does not
> >pose a problem for me since I have been using standard cup and cone bb's for a long time. What
> >is the latest word?
"Pete" <
[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The trick is to >>NEVER<< adjust the bb tight... or even "net".
>
> Did I mention to >>NEVER, EVER, EVER<< run it tight? <Bg>
>
> Seriously... the parts in the bb are not overly accurate; if you put the spindle shaft between
> centers, and check all the faces (the ground face the tiny ball bearing races shoulder against,
> the races themselves after they are installed, etc.), you will find they they simply aren't that
> accurate. Very UN-Shimano-like. These parts should be perfect -- they are not.
>
> Don't forget that since there is really no way to "radially" adjust the bb (since radial movement
> is essentially controlled by the needle bearings, which are not adjustable), the only way to check
> for play is to grab the center of the crankarm on the drive side and move the spindle back and
> forth *axially*. If you grab the crankarms and attempt to "rock" the cranks (as you normally would
> when checking for bb noise, etc) you will get a "false feel" on the adjustment.
>
> Make sure the bb shell is true (Campy tool), clean even a new bb assembly thoroughly and
> re-grease using a very high-quality ball bearing grease (Chevron makes a good one), and then
> assemble the bb.
>
> Do >>NOT<< adjust it tight or even snug (I think I mentioned that before <g>). The axial play will
> not be consistent around the 360 degrees of rotation no matter how perfect your bb shell is.
> Set the *tightest* spot in the rotation to just have a slight, but discernable amount of axial
> play (which means the loosest spot will have noticeable axial play). and run it.
>
> In my opinion (note qualifier), you will get the BEST life out of the bb using this method.
>
> And.... hope that the 2004 D/A parts are available very soon!
When you write: ">>NEVER<< adjust the bb tight... or even "net" " I have no idea what "net" means in
this context. Could you elucidate?
And "never adjust the BB tight"?? Well, _too_ tight would be inadvisable, of course, but a slight
preload is completely appropriate to a crank bearing assembly. Just snug enough to take up the
sideplay will exhibit uneven wear under load. A slight preload precludes that, giving even wear and
longer service life.
That question is one of degree.
Back to the OP's question, the overly-complex DA BB takes more time to clean and assemble than the
traditional loose-bearing design without any offsetting advantages. That would be IMHO a disservice
to the consumer, who pays more for the part, pays lots more for service, and gets no better
performance nor longer life. It was Robin, IIRC, who pointed out the service time, and concomitantly
the service charges, can be surprisingly steep .
All those things leave one chary to recommend this component over simpler, cheaper units
--
Andrew Muzi
http://www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April 1971