DynoHubs: What light bulbs/LED emitters?



On Mar 20, 8:15 pm, SMS <[email protected]> wrote:
> Andre Jute wrote:
> > Eh? Why no? What Bob has done is clever. I did it too, without ever
> > having heard of Bob. Now that I've read it, I like his simple
> > explanation and his simple diagram: makes everything brilliantly
> > clear.

>
> I've seen these set ups and they flicker as the LEDs alternate being
> illuminated. If he's eliminated the flickering, and isn't reverse
> biasing the LEDs, then I stand corrected.


Forget about reverse biassing the LED -- well, forget about it unless
you're stupid and overdo things, in which case internet advice will do
you no good anyway; think of it as something you can risk doing within
reason, as you can overvolt halogen lamps.

As for the flicker, that's just given me an idea, because I want a
front blinkie that operates off a dynamo... But you don't need to have
the flicker. What you do is add enough pairs effectively to turn the
LEDs themselves into a rectifier. Thank of what a rectifier does: it
flattens the peaks to reduce the distance between the troughs and the
peaks of the frequency wave. Seriesed parallel pairs of LEDs just do
it on both the positive and negative going cycles. A point we haven't
discussed yet is that there will always be flicker, albeit above the
frequency of human perception; it is called ripple.

> I didn't continue the experiment because I'm not having
> > anything that ugly on my bike, but that's an aesthetic judgement,
> > nothing to do with electronics that work. (It's a different matter
> > that my next experiment, an overvolted 20W MR16 operated on batteries,
> > provided *vastly more* light.)

>
> It would be nice to have a hybrid system without having two separate
> fixtures. A battery powered MR16 lamp for a "seeing" lamp, and a dynamo
> powered lamp for a "being seen" light or simply as a back-up in case
> your batteries go dead. You could also choose to charge the battery of
> the MR16, at least partially, from the generator. A "plug-in" hybrid
> type solution.


I looked into the ways in which people do that sort of thing. My
specialty in audio amps is simplification, not for cost but for purity
of sound; one of my tube amps has fewer components than the famous
Japanese GainCard. I didn't think I could simplify the plans for a
hybrid dual lighting system much if it must have so many facilities.
That much electronics just adds to uncertainty and unreliability on
the bike. That is why I went to the series-parallel mounting: it is
the minimum configuation (see the schematic Bob published -- it makes
the point of minimal engineering at a single glance); every part of it
performs at least three functions and the number of components is
irreducable. Yeah, I know, that sort of thing sends the electronics
engineers up the wall, but I hold most electronic engineers in rather
low esteem for their tendency to set irrelevant parameters and then to
perpetrate complicated engineering for no better reason than that it
is there to be perpetrated.

Andre Jute
Impedance is futile, you will be simulated into the triode of the
Borg. -- Robert Casey
 
On Mar 20, 10:04 pm, SMS <[email protected]> wrote:
> Andre Jute wrote:
> > Misunderstanding. I use a flashing Cateye 1100 at the rear for a
> > daylight running lamp. I want a flashing light at the front for a
> > daylight running lamp. It would be great to be able to run it off the
> > dynohub but no such lamp is available at a reasonable price. (The
> > SolidLights 1203D is a dynohub LED light with a flashing mode but it
> > is very expensive.) So I thought I might add a little DIY electronics
> > and make my Fly IQ flash...

>
> I can't remember which was the thread discussing tail lights, but I did
> see two good tail lights from Trek recently. The Flare 7 ($25) uses
> seven very bright LEDs and provides 270 degree coverage. The Flare 10
> ($30) uses ten LEDs and provides 360 degrees coverage (which I find hard
> to believe!). I guess I'd still opt for the TL-DL1100, but at least
> there are a couple of more choices now.


The problem with Trek, in my part of the world at least, is that their
accessories distribution falls somewhere between pisspoor and non-
existent. Trek bikes are available at every LBS but Trek accessories
are pretty hard to find. The rack pack in the photos of my Dutch city
bikes is a Trek which has given good service except for some
stitching coming loose when it was overstuffed with heavy tools. I
want another one just like it but the dealer I bought it from no
longer has Trek accessories and won't even try to order me one. I read
on your site about the Disco Inferno light and tried to order one,
with the same result. Mail order -- if you can even find Trek goodies
offered which isn't guaranteed either -- isn't a fabulous solution
because delivery to where I live can double or treble or even
quadruple the price of the goods. It is infuriating to to have
discovered a good brand, and even the precise items you want, and not
to be able to get it. I don't know why Trek, who are clearly competent
bike distributors, distribute their excellent accessories so badly;
perhaps they hard time gettting in because they are more expensive
than say BBB stuff. (Actually, expense probably isn't the whole
reason; the best wheels I ever owned were made by the Bontrager
division of Trek, and they are superior in every respect to wheels of
much higher price from others.)

Andre Jute
http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/BICYCLE & CYCLING.html
 
Andre Jute wrote:

> The problem with Trek, in my part of the world at least, is that their
> accessories distribution falls somewhere between pisspoor and non-
> existent. Trek bikes are available at every LBS but Trek accessories
> are pretty hard to find.


This is true. It seems intentional. Specialized has similar problems. I
live close to what is the largest Trek dealer in the western U.S., and
they have more Trek accessories than most dealers.

I would probably not put the blame completely on Trek. The bike shops
don't seem all that interested in keeping inventories of accessories
that could sit on the shelf for a long time, even though the profit
margin on accessories is much higher than on complete bikes.
 
Andre Jute wrote:

> engineers up the wall, but I hold most electronic engineers in rather
> low esteem for their tendency to set irrelevant parameters and then to
> perpetrate complicated engineering for no better reason than that it
> is there to be perpetrated.


What amused me is to see Peter White's whole diatribe on the Inoled
light. After all that expense it's essentially a very poorly engineered
product, they didn't even put over-voltage protection into the circuit.
Plus the light output isn't any better than a simply halogen lamp.

All the effort to use LEDs on an AC dynamo not designed for them is
rather insane. Wait for a generator designed to power LEDs, and in the
meantime buy a handful of bulbs at Daiso for 75 cents each.

The one interesting experiment would be to see how well a 6 volt 5 watt
MR16 would work of a SON or Shimano dynamo. You'd get a lot better
performance out of an MR16 than with most of the optics on the cheap
dynamo lights.
 
SMS <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> The one interesting experiment would be to see how well a 6 volt 5 watt
> MR16 would work of a SON or Shimano dynamo. You'd get a lot better
> performance out of an MR16 than with most of the optics on the cheap
> dynamo lights.


It's fairly easy to predict the result: no light. Here's why.

All standard bicycle dynamos put out approximately half an amp RMS,
a 6 volt 5 watt lamp draws about .8 amp. That would suggest the resistance
of the filament is a little more than one ohm, and it is, when the filament
is _hot_. Cold, the resistance is closer to .1 ohm, and half an amp will
produce only 50 milliwatts, not even enough to warm the filament up.

This is what makes filament lamps an intrisically difficult match to a constant
current power supply like a bicycle dynamo; if the filament heats up, its
resistance goes up, the power delivered from the dynamo goes up and the
filament in turn gets hotter still. If the generator makes 6 volts at
10 mph, it will make 12 at 20 mph given a hot enough bulb. However, the
generator will still make only half an amp at either speed.

An LED has the same forward voltage more or less independent of current.
Since the bike dynamo has fixed (roughly) current, the voltage and power
in the cicruit are approximately constant over a wide range of speeds.

One of the more counterintuitive things about permanent magnet
generators is that they deliver voltage proportional to speed
but current that is constant and independent of speed in their
normal operating range. That's just the opposite of a battery,
wall plug or any other common electrical power source.

Hope this helps!

bob prohaska
 
Thu, 20 Mar 2008 17:34:31 -0700, SMS:

>What amused me is to see Peter White's whole diatribe on the Inoled
>light. After all that expense it's essentially a very poorly engineered
>product, they didn't even put over-voltage protection into the circuit.


Wouldn't it be better if you comment only on things you have real
experience with? All the Inoled headlamps I opened have a over-voltage
protecion build in. The problem is: It might fail if riding very fast
without a tail-lamp connected.

>Plus the light output isn't any better than a simply halogen lamp.


You really didn't try it out. Simply ridiculous...

>All the effort to use LEDs on an AC dynamo not designed for them is
>rather insane.


Before judging like this: First report what you tried out in which
combination. How did you do the measurements?

>The one interesting experiment would be to see how well a 6 volt 5 watt
>MR16 would work of a SON or Shimano dynamo.


The result is clear to anyone who knows just a tiny little about the
characteristics of halogen bulbs and hub dynamos.

>You'd get a lot better
>performance out of an MR16 than with most of the optics on the cheap
>dynamo lights.


Ridiculous.

Andreas
 
Thu, 20 Mar 2008 12:20:33 -0700, SMS:

>
>> I don't even see the problem with a
>> multiple emitter stack if the optics are integrated into a single
>> housing (as the example you show). 3 of the available high efficiency
>> LEDs would provide 300 lumens with 1 amp from the generator.

>
>Yes it might be sufficient. However it is less efficient than a single
>LED in terms of lumens/watt.


It is more efficient in terms of lm/W to have 3 LEDs run on a little
reduced current than one LED at full current - especially if cooling is
not ideal.

Andreas
 
Thu, 20 Mar 2008 15:12:40 -0700 (PDT), [email protected]:

>Andreas (and others) - any general tips on optics for LED homebrews?


>What I'd like is a pattern tailored for road use, as I've described
>elsewhere - not a lot wasted upwards, and ideally, brighter toward the
>horizon.
>
>I'd given some thought to hack-sawing into some of my old light
>shells, but I'd prefer a bit of guidance over raw trial and error.
>Anything to recommend?


There are two main aproaches in tinkerering with LED bikelights in
germany:

1.) using 3 or 4 LEDs in series. At least two with the narrowest beam
optics (most prefer Gaggione Modbar nominal 4°) available angled 4-8
degree side by side aimed to illuminate the road up to maybe 25m away.
Another LED is combined with an "elliptical beam" optic (6°x25°) to
illuminate the area directly in front of the bike.

Examples: http://dunkeltours.de/Illupigs/Dreispitz/01.jpg
http://wandinger.pfaffenwinkel.de/led_fahrrad/LED_Scheinwerfer_Prototypen.html


2.) taking the reflector of an existing dynamo headlamp (E6, Union U100)
hacksaw it in two halves, glue two LEDs back-to-back on a sheet of
Aluminium and glue anything together in a way, that the LEDs are in the
position of the halogen bulbs filament.

http://www.enhydralutris.de/Fahrrad/LEDWerfer0402/p2180923_s.jpg
http://www.arcor.de/palb/foto_detail.jsp?albumID=3504519&pos=10
http://www.arcor.de/palb/foto_detail.jsp?albumID=3504519&pos=20
http://www.arcor.de/palb/foto_detail.jsp?albumID=3504519&pos=22
http://www.arcor.de/palb/foto_detail.jsp?albumID=3504519&pos=35
http://www.arcor.de/palb/foto_detail.jsp?albumID=3504519&pos=36
http://www.arcor.de/palb/foto_detail.jsp?albumID=3504519&pos=40

Andreas
 
Andreas Oehler wrote:

> Wouldn't it be better if you comment only on things you have real
> experience with? All the Inoled headlamps I opened have a over-voltage
> protecion build in. The problem is: It might fail if riding very fast
> without a tail-lamp connected.


Enough said!
 
On Mar 20, 8:34 pm, SMS <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
> The one interesting experiment would be to see how well a 6 volt 5 watt
> MR16 would work of a SON or Shimano dynamo. You'd get a lot better
> performance out of an MR16 than with most of the optics on the cheap
> dynamo lights.


Stephen, by just proposing this "experiment," you're displaying your
almost total ignorance of the workings of bike generators, and the way
they are matched to the devices they power.

A bike generator puts out a (roughly) constant current. That current
is not enough to light up a 6V, 5W lamp. Ohm's law and the definition
of a Watt should tell you that.

Really, it's LONG past time to remove the "World's Greatest Expert"
claims from your website!

- Frank Krygowski
 
bob prohaska's usenet account wrote:

> One of the more counterintuitive things about permanent magnet
> generators is that they deliver voltage proportional to speed
> but current that is constant and independent of speed in their
> normal operating range. That's just the opposite of a battery,
> wall plug or any other common electrical power source.


This is true for all alternators and generators. Voltage goes up with
frequency (rpm). In a perfect device, short circuit current would be
infinite. What prevents this is inductance and resistance. Resistance is
constant with frequency and represents real power loss (heat), and so
effects the overall efficiency. Inductance is constant, but has the
effect of lowering the current with increasing frequency. Since the
voltage is increasing with frequency, the two factors cancel out,
yielding constant short circuit current.

A negative resistance load is a load where the resistance goes down with
power. Using inductance as a current limit is common when driving
negative resistance loads (arc discharge: HID, neon, florescent,
welders, etc.). Inductance doesn't affect the efficiency. An LED is
another good example of a negative resistance load. Inductive current
limiting is a natural solution.

LEDs are a perfect load for generator/alternators. The only thing that
needs to be done is to match the inductance to the desired current
limit. As you point out, incandescents have a positive resistance,
making them a bad match to generators, requiring voltage clamping,
dropping some high speed efficiency.

I like the approach of using multiple LEDs to eliminate rectifiers. I'm
guessing that flicker might be noticeable when looking directly at the
LEDs but not at the illuminated field (if the beams are converged). I'd
consider that a feature, not a bug, particularly if one of the LEDs was
aimed back and was red -- flicker on a taillight isn't a bad thing, and
a 3:1 power split front:back seems good, too.

Perhaps multi-LED lamps are a feature rather than a bug also, since a
vertical array could give naturally the kind of beam pattern most
efficient for bikes (tall/narrow, brighter at top).
 
Andreas Oehler wrote:
> Thu, 20 Mar 2008 15:12:40 -0700 (PDT), [email protected]:
>
>> Andreas (and others) - any general tips on optics for LED homebrews?

>
>> What I'd like is a pattern tailored for road use, as I've described
>> elsewhere - not a lot wasted upwards, and ideally, brighter toward the
>> horizon.
>>
>> I'd given some thought to hack-sawing into some of my old light
>> shells, but I'd prefer a bit of guidance over raw trial and error.
>> Anything to recommend?

>
> There are two main aproaches in tinkerering with LED bikelights in
> germany:
>
> 1.) using 3 or 4 LEDs in series. At least two with the narrowest beam
> optics (most prefer Gaggione Modbar nominal 4°) available angled 4-8
> degree side by side aimed to illuminate the road up to maybe 25m away.
> Another LED is combined with an "elliptical beam" optic (6°x25°) to
> illuminate the area directly in front of the bike.


There will be a several commercial three LED dynamo lamps, with
standlights, available in Japan over the next few months at very good
prices. These are not being distributed in the U.S. unfortunately, and
they don't meet the European standard (but they meet the lower JIS
standard).

There are also 1W single LED models that put out more light than the the
three LED models, and which meets the European standard (10 LUX). One
model I saw has a 15 degree beam spread, and a 4 minute standlight, and
reaches full power at about 6 mph. It wholesales for around $US12, so it
should be around $25 by the time it reaches shops. Still not as good as
a 3W Cree or Luxeon LED battery powered light that sells for $25, but
about as good as you can get from a dynamo powered system. Meeting the
European standard with an LED dynamo powered light was not trivial.

It's not impossible to order on-line from European shops, I've done it
in the past. Before hacking up lights and paying one-off retail prices
for good LEDs, I'd check into these new LED dynamo lights, especially
the 1W single LED models, since it's comparable in illumination to a 3W
incandescent powered by a dynamo.
 
Andre Jute wrote:
> [...]
> As for your remark "without a clear cutoff above the horicon",


Please do not disturb the birds with your lighting:
<http://www.fws.gov/midwest/horicon/>.

> [...]
>> To be seen mostly belongs on a clear position on the road (read john
>> Forsteres Cyclecraft) - not on flashing like a cristmas tree.

>
> I repeat: you are talking about drivers who expect to see bicyclists,
> who have experience with bicyclists, and whose laws give bicyclists
> rights (so do mine, actually, but knowledge of the law is low and
> application in the courts hostile to bicyclists). I ride among
> motorists who consider that a bicyclist should pull off the road when
> he sees them coming; I discover that time and again when I stop them
> and listen to their excuses for driving dangerously around me. About
> twice a year someone shouts at me on a suburban street. "Get off the
> roads." That doesn't mean, Get out of my way, it means, Bicycles do
> not belong on the road.

[...]

I see so few cyclists here that if they all had the types of lights
advocated by Jute, it would NOT be a major distraction.

Only twice a year being told to get off the road? Irish drivers must be
very polite compared to USians!

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful
 
[email protected] aka Frank Krygowski wrote:
> [...]
> I don't find the flashing or twinkling (depending on the specific
> unit) to be annoying. However, that's primarily because the intensity
> is not out of control. Super-bright lights with bad optics can be
> very annoying and very hard on everyone's nighttime vision, especially
> if they flash.[...]


Frank description of "Super-bright lights with bad optics can be very
annoying and very hard on everyone's nighttime vision, especially if
they flash" fits those damn strobes mounted on school buses. What makes
school buses so special?

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful
 
Andre Jute wrote:
> [...]
> I don't have a car or a motorcycle, Krygo, and haven't since 1992. I'm
> a responsible world citizen.[...]


No commercial airline use then?

(I have NOT been on a commercial airliner since becoming a legal adult).

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful
 
Dan Overman wrote:
> On Mar 15, 2:09 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>
>> With one exception, I've never been in a place where a legally lit
>> cyclist is not sufficiently conspicuous. I've satisfied myself
>> literally hundreds of times that I'm even more visible at night than I
>> am in daytime.

>
> WTF?!?


I doubt that Frank spends much time riding his bicycle at a water
treatment facility (WTF).

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful
 
Andre Jute wrote:
> [...]
> 10. Lights are the last bicycle frontier. We hear a lot of talk from
> the technofreakies about how dynamo lights are now so much better than
> they were. But better isn't automatically good enough. The best dyno
> front light is still only nearly as good as a 10W MR11 battery light
> -- whereas I don't feel comfortable on any aspect of lighting (being
> seen, having my space respected, seeing) with anything less than about
> 25W divided between two lamps. YMMV, of course.[...]


ALL current bicycle lights are either underpowered or suffer from too
short battery life. We need fuel cell technology to advance to cure
this. Bicycle lighting should be as simple, convenient AND effective as
those on a motorcycle or automobile.

> 13. Good strong lights are useful in daylight too. The flashing Cateye
> 1100 persuades a lot of people to slow behind me and to give me a
> wider berth than they did before I fitted that light. The key for a
> cyclist is to be seen and thought about. (When Jay has a bit more
> experience with his Electra, he will notice that his higher profile on
> the bigger -- and clearly expensive -- bike earns him more courtesy
> from drivers than was the case on his old folder.)
>

Assuming that pedal clearance governs, the folder will have just as high
of a saddle as the larger wheel upright. The bicycle is also practically
invisible compared to the cyclist when viewed end on.

I prefer a recumbent with a large, brightly colored (e.g. lime-yellow)
seat back bag to get the attention of overtaking cagers.

> 14. That applies to front lights as well. Example: Yesterday
> afternoon, while I was riding down a hill on another narrow road with
> parked cars on both sides, a driver coming from the front clearly
> intended, despite the fact that I had right of way, to bull his way
> past me by forcing me to stop and pull off. I switched on my front
> lights as a warning that I had seen him and had no intention of giving
> way, and he immediately had second thoughts, pulling out of my way
> between two parked cars to give me the road. A woman who was driving
> behind me also drove into the supermarket where I stopped. "You
> frightened that pushy son of a ***** shitless," she said, laughing
> aloud; it turned out he's her unloved neighbour and people have been
> talking about his foul manners on the hill to the estate where they
> live.[...]


He should come to da 'hood, where a bro with a gun would soon fix his
attitude.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful
 
Andre Jute wrote:
> On Mar 16, 4:11 pm, Tim McNamara <[email protected]> wrote:
>> In article
>> <14a59561-15a4-4312-b04a-c7612f9cf...@s37g2000prg.googlegroups.com>,
>> Dan O <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> On Mar 15, 2:09 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>>>> With one exception, I've never been in a place where a legally lit
>>>> cyclist is not sufficiently conspicuous. I've satisfied myself
>>>> literally hundreds of times that I'm even more visible at night
>>>> than I am in daytime.
>>> WTF?!?

>> WTF do you mean "WTF?!?"

>
> WTF do you mean WTF be means WTF?
>
>> A bicyclist at night with a headlight and
>> taillight is more conspicuous than a cyclist riding during the day. Way
>> more contrast between a bright light and a dark background.

>
> In total darkness, a condition that does not exist for most cycling
> situations. This is a juvenile form of argument, Tim.[...]


Much of my riding has been in the near absence of artificial lighting,
which is typical of the conditions one encounters once leaving the urban
areas.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful
 
Peter Cole <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> I like the approach of using multiple LEDs to eliminate rectifiers. I'm
> guessing that flicker might be noticeable when looking directly at the
> LEDs but not at the illuminated field (if the beams are converged). I'd


Flicker is detectable on my setup at speeds below walking, but not at normal
riding speed. To my way of thinking the worst defect is total lack of a
standlight. http://www.nscl.msu.edu/~daniel/regulator.html has a very good
solution, but it's more complexity than I can justify for a 15 minute commute.

bob prohaska
 
On Mar 22, 1:35 am, Tom Sherman <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Andre Jute wrote:
> > [...]
> > I don't have a car or a motorcycle, Krygo, and haven't since 1992. I'm
> > a responsible world citizen.[...]

>
> No commercial airline use then?


Nope. I encourage people to deal with me by e-mail and phone. A few
years ago I did a book with a dozen publishers, literally dozens of
editors, with three packagers involved, and I never met any except a
single editor -- and for all she persuaded me of, she needn't have
come. Most face to face meetings are a waste of time.

> (I have NOT been on a commercial airliner since becoming a legal adult).


Congratulions. I spent most of my twenties sitting in a Learjet, even
more cramped than airliners; you will not be surprised to hear that I
don't recommend it.

Andre Jute
Much more relaxed now