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Freewheel question

Started by Scott · · Last activity · 27 posts · 617 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
23 April 2006
Last activity
28 April 2006
Original author
Scott
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  1. Johnny Two Pedals said:
    Scott said:

    I've got an older Zipp disc that's threaded for a track cog on one
    side, freewheel on the other. I'd like to be able to use it for road
    TTs as well as on the track, so I'm curious if anyone's been able to
    re-fit an older 8sp freewheel into either a 9 or 10 sp freewheel?

    If so, how'd you do it?

    thanks,

    Scott

    Hello???? (knocking on inside of monitor) Sorry to intrude, but you
    all seem to be missing something....if the hub is threaded for a track
    cog on one side, and for a SINGLE SPEED freewheel on the other, then
    the wheel is dished symetrically. Unless you have a novel method of
    changing the disc dish, you are sorta stuck with a single speed wheel.

    //jtd//

    If anyone's missing something, it's you. Don't assume that both sides
    are threaded symmetrically.

    Have you ever seen an older Zipp disc wheel? They are specifically
    designed to take a cog on one side and a freewheel on the other. The
    wheel isn't dished at all. The single cog side has the threads moved
    WAAAAY out from the center of the wheel to allow for proper chainline,
    and the freewheel side has the threads closer to the wheel center-line,
    spaced to match any typical threaded hub.

  2. Scott said:

    Jacob Stang wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I have made a 8 speed freewheel with 9 speed spacing form a standard
    Shimano 7 speed freewheel. By replacing the lockring with a threaded cog
    from a 6 speed uniglide cassette and making new spacers from a sheet of
    2.5 mm plexiglass.
    With a cog at 1.85 and a spacer at 2.5 you get a cogspacing at 4.35.
    I also had to grind down the teeth's on the threaded cog since they where
    higher than the teeth's on the hyperglide cog.

    Quoted message said:

    THANKS... I knew someone out there had to have figured out a way to
    make something like this work. Now, if only there was enough demand
    for it, Wheels Manufacturing would make a conversion kit.

    You should ask them. Maybe it'll put the idea in their heads,
    or maybe there is some trickle of people asking them,
    that we don't know about.

    Ben

  3. Scott said:
    Johnny Two Pedals said:
    Scott said:

    I've got an older Zipp disc that's threaded for a track cog on one
    side, freewheel on the other. I'd like to be able to use it for road
    TTs as well as on the track, so I'm curious if anyone's been able to
    re-fit an older 8sp freewheel into either a 9 or 10 sp freewheel?

    If so, how'd you do it?

    thanks,

    Scott

    Hello???? (knocking on inside of monitor) Sorry to intrude, but you
    all seem to be missing something....if the hub is threaded for a track
    cog on one side, and for a SINGLE SPEED freewheel on the other, then
    the wheel is dished symetrically. Unless you have a novel method of
    changing the disc dish, you are sorta stuck with a single speed wheel.

    //jtd//

    If anyone's missing something, it's you. Don't assume that both sides
    are threaded symmetrically.

    Have you ever seen an older Zipp disc wheel? They are specifically
    designed to take a cog on one side and a freewheel on the other. The
    wheel isn't dished at all. The single cog side has the threads moved
    WAAAAY out from the center of the wheel to allow for proper chainline,
    and the freewheel side has the threads closer to the wheel center-line,
    spaced to match any typical threaded hub.

    With vintage Campy cycling hat in hand, I humbly stand before you and
    beg forgiveness. This is what I get for posting prior to having the
    first cup of coffee. Please accept my apologies. In my defense, I did
    go searching for a picture of the wheel prior to shooting myself in the
    foot. Actually, sound like a neat idea to have the flexibility
    described.

    //jtd//

  4. Johnny Two Pedals said:
    Scott said:
    Johnny Two Pedals said:

    Scott wrote:
    > I've got an older Zipp disc that's threaded for a track cog on one
    > side, freewheel on the other. I'd like to be able to use it for road
    > TTs as well as on the track, so I'm curious if anyone's been able to
    > re-fit an older 8sp freewheel into either a 9 or 10 sp freewheel?
    >
    > If so, how'd you do it?
    >
    > thanks,
    >
    > Scott

    Hello???? (knocking on inside of monitor) Sorry to intrude, but you
    all seem to be missing something....if the hub is threaded for a track
    cog on one side, and for a SINGLE SPEED freewheel on the other, then
    the wheel is dished symetrically. Unless you have a novel method of
    changing the disc dish, you are sorta stuck with a single speed wheel.

    //jtd//

    If anyone's missing something, it's you. Don't assume that both sides
    are threaded symmetrically.

    Have you ever seen an older Zipp disc wheel? They are specifically
    designed to take a cog on one side and a freewheel on the other. The
    wheel isn't dished at all. The single cog side has the threads moved
    WAAAAY out from the center of the wheel to allow for proper chainline,
    and the freewheel side has the threads closer to the wheel center-line,
    spaced to match any typical threaded hub.

    With vintage Campy cycling hat in hand, I humbly stand before you and
    beg forgiveness. This is what I get for posting prior to having the
    first cup of coffee. Please accept my apologies. In my defense, I did
    go searching for a picture of the wheel prior to shooting myself in the
    foot. Actually, sound like a neat idea to have the flexibility
    described.

    //jtd//

    No worries.

    BTW, after reading Jacob's solution, I thought I'd try to modify the
    8sp Sachs freewheel I already have. Big problem, though. The
    freewheel doesn't use spacers, the individual cogs have a sleeve of
    sorts built in to serve as the spacer. I suppose I could take 'em to a
    machine shop and have 'em ground down to the appropriate width, and
    reassemble the freewheel with an extra spacer of the appropriate width
    behind the largest cog, but I'm really beginning to think it's too much
    trouble.

  5. Scott said:

    BTW, after reading Jacob's solution, I thought I'd try to modify the
    8sp Sachs freewheel I already have. Big problem, though. The
    freewheel doesn't use spacers, the individual cogs have a sleeve of
    sorts built in to serve as the spacer. I suppose I could take 'em to a
    machine shop and have 'em ground down to the appropriate width, and
    reassemble the freewheel with an extra spacer of the appropriate width
    behind the largest cog, but I'm really beginning to think it's too much
    trouble.

    Really? I never had a Sachs 8sp freewheel, but my recollection
    of Sachs 7sp is that the smallest cog screws into the 2nd cog which
    screws into the freewheel body, and these both have built-in spacers.
    Maybe the 3rd cog also has a built-in spacer. The larger cogs are
    flat and there are black or brown plastic spacers between them.

    <http://www.bikepro.com/products/freewheels/sachs.html>
    It kills me that this catalog is still up, I think the business
    has been dead for almost ten years now.

    The Shimano freewheels had integrated spacers on the one or two
    smallest cogs and the rest were flat with separate spacers.

    Ben

  6. Quoted message said:
    Scott said:

    BTW, after reading Jacob's solution, I thought I'd try to modify the
    8sp Sachs freewheel I already have. Big problem, though. The
    freewheel doesn't use spacers, the individual cogs have a sleeve of
    sorts built in to serve as the spacer. I suppose I could take 'em to a
    machine shop and have 'em ground down to the appropriate width, and
    reassemble the freewheel with an extra spacer of the appropriate width
    behind the largest cog, but I'm really beginning to think it's too much
    trouble.

    Really? I never had a Sachs 8sp freewheel, but my recollection
    of Sachs 7sp is that the smallest cog screws into the 2nd cog which
    screws into the freewheel body, and these both have built-in spacers.
    Maybe the 3rd cog also has a built-in spacer. The larger cogs are
    flat and there are black or brown plastic spacers between them.

    <http://www.bikepro.com/products/freewheels/sachs.html>
    It kills me that this catalog is still up, I think the business
    has been dead for almost ten years now.

    The Shimano freewheels had integrated spacers on the one or two
    smallest cogs and the rest were flat with separate spacers.

    Ben

    I haven't taken it apart, so I can't say about whether there are
    spacers between the larger cogs. You're probably right. I could
    easily see that the smaller cogs didn't have spacers, so I didn't even
    bother to pull it apart.

    I've thought about buying a Shimano freewheel to tinker with and see if
    I can make it work, but it looks like the only one's available now have
    that whacky mega-alpine, super wide-spaced gearing. If I could find an
    8 sp 12-18 straight block, or 12-21 even, it'd be worth messing with.

    To be honest, considering that I suck so badly at time trialling, I'm
    thinking I'm better off just using my normal, non-aero race wheels for
    the one or two TT's I'll do this year. At least I'll have an excuse
    other than, "I suck".

    S.

  7. Scott said:
    Johnny Two Pedals said:
    Scott said:

    Johnny Two Pedals wrote:
    > Scott wrote:
    > > I've got an older Zipp disc that's threaded for a track cog on one
    > > side, freewheel on the other. I'd like to be able to use it for road
    > > TTs as well as on the track, so I'm curious if anyone's been able to
    > > re-fit an older 8sp freewheel into either a 9 or 10 sp freewheel?
    > >
    > > If so, how'd you do it?
    > >
    > > thanks,
    > >
    > > Scott
    >
    > Hello???? (knocking on inside of monitor) Sorry to intrude, but you
    > all seem to be missing something....if the hub is threaded for a track
    > cog on one side, and for a SINGLE SPEED freewheel on the other, then
    > the wheel is dished symetrically. Unless you have a novel method of
    > changing the disc dish, you are sorta stuck with a single speed wheel.
    >
    > //jtd//

    If anyone's missing something, it's you. Don't assume that both sides
    are threaded symmetrically.

    Have you ever seen an older Zipp disc wheel? They are specifically
    designed to take a cog on one side and a freewheel on the other. The
    wheel isn't dished at all. The single cog side has the threads moved
    WAAAAY out from the center of the wheel to allow for proper chainline,
    and the freewheel side has the threads closer to the wheel center-line,
    spaced to match any typical threaded hub.

    With vintage Campy cycling hat in hand, I humbly stand before you and
    beg forgiveness. This is what I get for posting prior to having the
    first cup of coffee. Please accept my apologies. In my defense, I did
    go searching for a picture of the wheel prior to shooting myself in the
    foot. Actually, sound like a neat idea to have the flexibility
    described.

    //jtd//

    No worries.

    BTW, after reading Jacob's solution, I thought I'd try to modify the
    8sp Sachs freewheel I already have. Big problem, though. The
    freewheel doesn't use spacers, the individual cogs have a sleeve of
    sorts built in to serve as the spacer. I suppose I could take 'em to a
    machine shop and have 'em ground down to the appropriate width, and
    reassemble the freewheel with an extra spacer of the appropriate width
    behind the largest cog, but I'm really beginning to think it's too much
    trouble.

    Scott,

    I had a Zipp 950 disk that I used on the track for several years AND
    used it with an 8 speed STI setup and an 8-speed Sachs freewheel. I
    bought a Profile "swingshifter" setup for the end of the aerobars and
    left a set of downtube shifters permanently attached. The only thing I
    had to do was remove the shiftcables connected to the STI levers and
    connect up the longer ones on the swiftshift setup. I left my STI
    levers on and attached to the brakes.

    It really was quick and rather painless.

    Greg Wood

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