Friend new to cycle commuting



ritcho said:
[
Slicks are a pretty good option, especially if he can fit (say) 28mm slicks on the MTB rims... is that size too narrow for such a thing?

The OP might also wish to try getting a more aero seating position - handlebars down a little, seat up higher... replace flat bars with drops?... add aero bars? Clipless pedals? I guess the costs add up - slicks are pretty cost-effective...

Ritch

The narrowest tyre readily available for your standard skinny (17mm) XC mtb rim is a 1.1 inch (Ritchey, Specialized, Avocet etc.). 1.3 or 1.4 is a bit more feasible, and roll just as quick, with a bit more rubber/belting for protection from shitty city debris. Unless you do granite sand paths, forget the side knobs, and got minimal tread.

My current favourite is the Vredestien S-Lick, tough as all get-out and fast even when you forget to pump them up (oops, 40 psi., did you say?). Not cheap, but worth every cent in lack of time spent swearing at them in non-inflated mode in the rain. Schwalbe do a few good patterns (more rubber, more wear) as well.

Aero bars on a commuter? You must have rocks in your head! You need visibility, both to see and be seen! Several tri-heads have been evicted from fast training bunches for the sin of aero-barring - it's only a mite more dangerous than going head down, bum up in traffic.

A simple, tough commuter is best. Good quality hubs & spokes (rims are consumeables on city roads). Disk brakes maybe? (cuts down on rim wear and grey sludge all over everything) A STEEL frame (there, I've said it) doesn't do nasty cracky things after a few years of there and back. Volvo-melting lights.(Keep reflective tape for your clothing) Robust clipless pedals and walkable shoes do wonders. All for the price of less than half a used Hyundai. Shithouse (but functional) paint job and kick-**** lock deters scumbag leeches.

M "aluminium oxide grey is my favourite colour" H
 
"mfhor" <[email protected]
> The narrowest tyre readily available for your standard skinny (17mm) XC
> mtb rim is a 1.1 inch (Ritchey, Specialized, Avocet etc.). 1.3 or 1.4 is


I wanna try the Tom Slicks.. any shops in Melbourne with them?

> My current favourite is the Vredestien S-Lick, tough as all get-out and
> fast even when you forget to pump them up (oops, 40 psi., did you say?).
> Not cheap, but worth every cent in lack of time spent swearing at them
> in non-inflated mode in the rain. Schwalbe do a few good patterns (more
> rubber, more wear) as well.


The kevlar beads on the S-Licks can get a little loose towards
the end of their life. I commuted 50k/weekday for 12 months
with not a single puncture. Ended up a nail went through the
thing! That was probably in the days when street sweeping
actually occurred.

> Aero bars on a commuter? You must have rocks in your head!


I've seen people riding down Whitehorse Rd. on their aerobars..
Silly for a commuter - attracts undue crim attention too.

> A simple, tough commuter is best. Good quality hubs & spokes (rims are
> consumeables on city roads).


Learn how to bunnyhop - rims don't need to die. Use heavier,
deeper section rims for strength. My Velocity Fusions are in
need of a slight true, but that's after 3ish years of racing,
commuting, training, tri's, crashes, blah, blah, etc, etc.. They are
tough!

> Disk brakes maybe? (cuts down on rim wear and grey sludge all over

everything)

On a commuter? Tough and simple - discs aren't really either.
Go the Vee's/Canti's!
Disc are also a crim-magnet. I would run discs because I know
where my bike lives and I like the ****-factor :)
No good if you're going for the Mad Max/shitter-bike commuter style.

> clipless pedals and walkable shoes do wonders.


SPD's rule for commuting!
If only the Nike store still sold their MTB shoes for $50...

> All for the price of less than half a used Hyundai.


People actually pay money for used Hyundais?

> Shithouse (but functional) paint job and kick-**** lock deters
> scumbag leeches.


Or go the electrical-tape wrap+stickers for extra street-cred points ;-)

> M "aluminium oxide grey is my favourite colour" H


Red, guaranteed for a 4kph increase over 10k commute* or Black
for that "My lights have stopped working and I'm going to sneak
home in total darkness" look..

hippy
* cheques will not be honoured
 
mfhor said:
My current favourite is the Vredestien S-Lick, tough as all get-out and fast even when you forget to pump them up (oops, 40 psi., did you say?). Not cheap, but worth every cent in lack of time spent swearing at them in non-inflated mode in the rain. Schwalbe do a few good patterns (more rubber, more wear) as well.

Ive been on irc metro duro in 1.5" @ 100psi. Not a puncture in 6 months, probably doomed myself there.

till
 
mfhor said:
[snip good tyre advice]

Aero bars on a commuter? You must have rocks in your head! You need visibility, both to see and be seen! Several tri-heads have been evicted from fast training bunches for the sin of aero-barring - it's only a mite more dangerous than going head down, bum up in traffic.

A simple, tough commuter is best. Good quality hubs & spokes (rims are consumeables on city roads). Disk brakes maybe? (cuts down on rim wear and grey sludge all over everything) A STEEL frame (there, I've said it) doesn't do nasty cracky things after a few years of there and back. Volvo-melting lights.(Keep reflective tape for your clothing) Robust clipless pedals and walkable shoes do wonders. All for the price of less than half a used Hyundai. Shithouse (but functional) paint job and kick-**** lock deters scumbag leeches.

M "aluminium oxide grey is my favourite colour" H

Aero bars on a commuter is fine if your commuter is also your weekend racer and tri bike. At least on my commute, there is a section where you want to go fast to get through ASAP! Of course, there are no side streets along the section and I agree with your comments about bunch riding (who wouldn't?).

Regarding the choice of brakes, I don't see the need for disks on the road - I reckon I'm more likely to bust a rim on a gutter or an unseen pothole before I wear through the walls. I'm careful too, as my still-true 535s can attest[1]. Gravel and grit is the enemy of rims, perhaps if the OP rides on a dirt path for part of the way?

Ritch (only allowed one bike... pooh!)

[1]They're likely to stay that way since I now ride on my homemade wheels.
 
hippy wrote:
> Learn how to bunnyhop - rims don't need to die. Use heavier,


I'd love to be able to bunnyhop but I haven't got a clue how to get that
rear wheel up. Has anyone seen a decent explanation of how to do it.
I've seen a few very vague explanations that haven't helped at all.

DaveB
 
ritcho said:
Aero bars on a commuter is fine if your commuter is also your weekend racer and tri bike. At least on my commute, there is a section where you want to go fast to get through ASAP! Of course, there are no side streets along the section and I agree with your comments about bunch riding (who wouldn't?).

Regarding the choice of brakes, I don't see the need for disks on the road - I reckon I'm more likely to bust a rim on a gutter or an unseen pothole before I wear through the walls. I'm careful too, as my still-true 535s can attest[1]. Gravel and grit is the enemy of rims, perhaps if the OP rides on a dirt path for part of the way?

Ritch (only allowed one bike... pooh!)

[1]They're likely to stay that way since I now ride on my homemade wheels.
Depends on yr riding style, I suppose. My gf is heavy on the brakes (TRYING to train her out of it), her rims got to the stage when I was worried she might blow the sidewall off the rear one. Rebuild time. Rainy, road-oily commutes are where disks shine, like out in the bush when it's wet.

If it's yr only bike, well, OK, aerobars, if you want them. They're only good for short burst of fast, or conversely, ultra long distance, IMO. Just more weight and clutter you only occasionally use.

M "K.I.S.S" H
 
mfhor said:
[snip]

If it's yr only bike, well, OK, aerobars, if you want them. They're only good for short burst of fast, or conversely, ultra long distance, IMO. Just more weight and clutter you only occasionally use.

M "K.I.S.S" H

To be fair, they aren't a permanent fixture... I used 'em for Sunday's half-ironman, but for some reason they won't let me use them at Heffron Park :)

Ritch
 
"DaveB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> hippy wrote:
> > Learn how to bunnyhop - rims don't need to die. Use heavier,

>
> I'd love to be able to bunnyhop but I haven't got a clue how to get that
> rear wheel up. Has anyone seen a decent explanation of how to do it.
> I've seen a few very vague explanations that haven't helped at all.


http://free-du.htnet.hr/trials/faq.html#q3_2
http://free-du.htnet.hr/trials/faq.html#q3_3

You can do the cheats way clipped in too..
While rolling along, crouch down, jump up and, while your body
weight is off the bike, quickly lift the bike by bending your
arms up and lifting up your feet..

hippy
 
hippy said:
"ritcho" <[email protected]
> Slicks are a pretty good option, especially if he can fit (say) 28mm
> slicks on the MTB rims... is that size too narrow for such a thing?


http://www.thehippy.net/Cycling/mtb_slicks.asp

I use 1.3" S-Licks, Ritchey make a 1" Tom Slicks.

hippy

Hippy,
you might also add the 26" range of Serfas (www.serfas.com) tyres to your list. I used the dual sport 2.0" initially, then went to the 1.5" tyres. they have other 26" slicks as well.

http://www.serfas.com/tires/index_tires.html

mike
 
mfhor wrote:

> A STEEL frame (there, I've said it) doesn't do nasty cracky things
> after a few years of there and back.

Geez mfhor, you'll be recommending people use linseed oil next!

I commuted, raced, and trained for three years on an aluminium Colnago, an completely stuffed it. Steel's the go for commuting (actually I reckon steel's the go for everything, but I've got a bit of a bias).

My fixed wheel makes a great commuter. Just one brake, no gears, and you'd have to be insane to try to steal it.

Regards,

Suzy
 
"mikeg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> hippy Wrote:
>> "ritcho" <[email protected]
>>> Slicks are a pretty good option, especially if he can fit (say) 28mm
>>> slicks on the MTB rims... is that size too narrow for such a thing?

>>
>> http://www.thehippy.net/Cycling/mtb_slicks.asp
>>
>> I use 1.3" S-Licks, Ritchey make a 1" Tom Slicks.

>
> Hippy,
> you might also add the 26" range of Serfas (www.serfas.com) tyres to
> your list. I used the dual sport 2.0" initially, then went to the 1.5"
> tyres. they have other 26" slicks as well.
>
> http://www.serfas.com/tires/index_tires.html


There's no shortage of slicks for MTB rims. Funnily enough if you want fat
slicks you're better off with 26" than 700 rims.

--

A: Top-posters.
Q: What is the most annoying thing on Usenet?
 
suzyj said:
mfhor wrote:

> A STEEL frame (there, I've said it) doesn't do nasty cracky things
> after a few years of there and back.

Geez mfhor, you'll be recommending people use linseed oil next!

I commuted, raced, and trained for three years on an aluminium Colnago, an completely stuffed it. Steel's the go for commuting (actually I reckon steel's the go for everything, but I've got a bit of a bias).

My fixed wheel makes a great commuter. Just one brake, no gears, and you'd have to be insane to try to steal it.

Regards,

Suzy
Don't get all worked up - I'm trialling Tung Oil as a framesaver on my Reynolds 631 MTB frame - it gets muddier/wetter than the commuter. Sure makes it smell like a piece of heirloom furniture! Polish a bit of blackwood, u-bolt it to the top tube, hey presto, instant Fringe Furniture!

p.s. the commuter is a way overbuilt alloy frame - I just came on it by chance. Silly seat angle needs a big layback in the seatpost. No tung oil needed, 'tho.

M "oxide gets us all in the end" H
 
DaveB said:
hippy wrote:
> Learn how to bunnyhop - rims don't need to die. Use heavier,


I'd love to be able to bunnyhop but I haven't got a clue how to get that
rear wheel up. Has anyone seen a decent explanation of how to do it.
I've seen a few very vague explanations that haven't helped at all.

DaveB

Dave

I'll give you some hop training ideas next bunch ride!

B "hoppin's not just for MTB's"
 
Bikesoiler said:
Dave

I'll give you some hop training ideas next bunch ride!

B "hoppin's not just for MTB's"

dare you to do it down 'THE hill' :D :D :D

there's a sequence of road repairs i always bunnyhop, no mattewr what bike Im on down High St Kew, near the cemetry...

PS the old guy at the bottom of the hill is back and waving at passing riders...
 
On Tue, 14 Dec 2004 at 23:09 GMT, mfhor (aka Bruce)
was almost, but not quite, entirely unlike tea:
> M "oxide gets us all in the end" H


Well, no. Thermonuclear fusion gets us all in the end. Mmmm, CNO
cycles.

Ti-"Gee, this becks really tastes like ****"-m.

--
TimC -- http://astronomy.swin.edu.au/staff/tconnors/
I'm all for computer dating, but I wouldn't want one to marry my sister. --unk
 
flyingdutch wrote:

>
> Bikesoiler Wrote:
> > Dave
> >
> > I'll give you some hop training ideas next bunch ride!
> >
> > B "hoppin's not just for MTB's"

>
> dare you to do it down 'THE hill' :D :D :D
>
> there's a sequence of road repairs i always bunnyhop, no mattewr what
> bike Im on down High St Kew, near the cemetry...
>
> PS the old guy at the bottom of the hill is back and waving at passing
> riders...


Hey, I bunnyhop those too - 3 of them right? One's a depression, the
other 2 are bumps? That old guy is funny - wonder where he's been,
maybe up north during the cold weather or something.

My rudimentary bike skillz are developing a little too - on Gertrude St
Fitzroy, where the tram track is often on the line you want to ride on
- I can now bunny-hop sideways to get from one side to the other!
Cheating by using SPDs of course...
 
"TimC" <[email protected]
> On Tue, 14 Dec 2004 at 23:09 GMT, mfhor (aka Bruce)
> was almost, but not quite, entirely unlike tea:
> > M "oxide gets us all in the end" H

>
> Well, no. Thermonuclear fusion gets us all in the end. Mmmm, CNO
> cycles.
>
> Ti-"Gee, this becks really tastes like ****"-m.


What does Posh think about this?!?!

hippy
- dislikes both "Becks"
 
Not a bad starter commute, that one, although I'd be making sure to point out that it does get easier quickly as that lst bit on the way home is going to hurt quite a bit at first. Computer's not a bad idea. I'd say if he's got chunky MTB tyres, change them for slicks ASAP. That was a huge turning point for me when I discovered that I wasn't actually anything like as slow as I thought. MTB tyres suck hard if you're not on dirt. I know that's hardly news, but it really makes a difference.

Panniers or at least a rack is nice because you don't get where you're going with a huge patch of sweat on your back. More importantly, sweating actually does what it's meant to. I'm a LOT more comfortable on the bike since I stopped wearing a backpack.

Other than that, keep it as simple as possible. Knicks are great, but it's easy to feel way too self-concious at first (YMMV) but once the weight starts to peel off, he'll probably be a lot more enthusiastic about that sort of thing.
 
flyingdutch wrote:
> Bikesoiler Wrote:
>
>>Dave
>>
>>I'll give you some hop training ideas next bunch ride!
>>
>>B "hoppin's not just for MTB's"

>
>
> dare you to do it down 'THE hill' :D :D :D
>
> there's a sequence of road repairs i always bunnyhop, no mattewr what
> bike Im on down High St Kew, near the cemetry...
>
> PS the old guy at the bottom of the hill is back and waving at passing
> riders...
>
>


The guy opposite the cemetery?????

Cool. I haven't seen him in ages. It's just like
being in a solo break when he's there;)

--
Nick