Peter Cole said:Tim McNamara said:Have you got a B.17 Standard or a B.17N? The latter is a couple cm
narrower. I checked my Pros; my ischial tuberosity dents are about 9
cm center to center, so for me 13 cm would be plenty of room. I can
sit about 3 cm in front of the rear stretcher (the thing the top is
riveted to) and not feel the metal at all, and be perfectly
comfortable. At the same point, the B.17 Standard I have is a couple
cm wider than the Pros, which might be why it's not as comfortable to
me at the Pros are.
Brooks saddles may just not be for you. Just like Flites aren't for
me. Does that mean they are [censored]? Nope. We have to be careful about
inflating our personal experiences into universal judgments, something
that is all too common in human nature.
The problem I had with Brooks is that they sag too much. I need a very
flat saddle. If there's any sag at all, I go numb. Flites were fine
shape-wise for me, but a little too hard for brevets. I used a Selle
Italia "Tri-matic" right out of the box and rode a 400K. I almost lost a
whole season screwing around with Brooks (Pro & B-17). I think it's a
simple matter of anatomy (individual) and perhaps riding position. I
also tend to ride with lower bars than most.
I think you are quite right, it is a matter of individual anatomy as to
which saddles suit a person. Brooks saddles have acquired a mystique
(both pro and con) that IMHO is pretty much disproportionate to reality.
They work for some people, they don't for others.
Quoted message said:As far as lugs go, I think they're a bit unreliable. I've had 2 lugged
frames fail, one right along the lug edge where they tend to concentrate
stress, the other had a tube pull out of the lug, from a bad braze,
which are impossible to check. I'll take welded, thanks.
Every method of joining tubes has a failure rate. I've seen broken
lugged frames and broken welded frames, but only one broken fillet
brazed frame. That was a Viscount Aerospace Pro, bought in 1976 and
broken by 1981. The seat tube cracked just above the fillet. Fillet
brazed frames being rarer than lugged or welded might be why I've only
seen the one. I have a fillet brazed Ritchey road frame that I raced on
for a few years and have ridden for 8 or 9 years with no sign of failure
anywhere. I suspect- as with all the other methods- the skill of the
welder/brazer is rather important. I'm really just a bit prejudiced- I
think welded frames are butt-ugly and they remind me of Sears Free
Spirits and Huffys and the like. If I wasn't an old fart who worked in
bike shops in the late 70s to mid-80s, I might think differently.
Quoted message said:As for wheels, I'm just practical. You can get a pair of nice
Ultegra/Mavic for cheap & tweak them and they'll be pretty bullet-proof,
I just don't have the patience to screw around with anything more
exotic. I think Mavic rims are a bit of a rip though.
I agree competely except I no longer use Mavic rims (I do have a back
stock of three unused MA2s in reserve- I bought out the local bike
shop's stock when the MA2 was discontinued). Mavic rims cost at least
twice what they should.
Quoted message said:I like Cinelli tape all right, but it's too fragile. Very hard to wrap
it tight enough to not slip around & lay flat. I've found the Nashbar
house tape to be better. You can pull it very tight and it's grippy. The
last roll I bought was $3.
Cinelli's cork tape used to be much better than it is now, IMHO. I've
developed a pretty good touch with it so I can get it to wrap well, but
it's fragile and cuts easily if anything hits the handlebars. I was
given a free package of some cheap-ass tape by the LBS, and darned if it
isn't actually pretty good. It's a rubbery material, I think it's
polyurethane but I am not sure and I don't have the box anymore. I
haven't tried the Nashbar house brand, haven't ever even looked at it on
their Web site.