got a "new to me" Fischer road bike and have some questions

[bmwpowere36m3]

Hi, I recently got a FISCHER road bike from my uncle in Poland. I believe it's from a German bicycle maker, I don't have a pic at the moment. Details on the bike:











FISCHER road bike, chainstay protector says, "Shimano Equipped"

• Campagnolo Berlin 36 ETRTO 622x13c Rims
• Suntour GK/GL Hubs (F/R)
• Michelin Lithion Tires 700x23c
• ITM Handlebars
• DIA-COMPE Brake Levers/Hoods
• Shimano Exage Motion Brakes
• Suntour SL Front Derail
• 52/xxT (130BCD)Chainrings
• Dotek-FG-PRO6-170 Cranks
• Suntour GPX BB (1.370"x24 tpi & 70 mm shell size???)
• Shimano RSX (RD-A410) Rear Derail
• Suntour AP Cassette 13-24
• KMC Z-50 Chain (new)

I believe this bike through the years might have been modified... First, the brake's reach is a little too short. Even with the pads adjusted at the limit, the pad rides slightly off the rim (towards the tire) by about 1 mm. Second, the mixed drivetrain components (Suntour & Shimano).

First, I'd like to find out a little about the bike. Second, the BB is worn and at the moment I can't open it up (I already adjusted it to remove some play). What are my options in terms of BBs, better to just get a sealed cartridge unit? Third, the reach of the brake calipers is too short. Fourth, I recently replaced the chain and when pedaling hard (uphill) in certain gears the chain skips. I looked at the chainrings and cassette and they don't appear to be worn funny. I wanted to flip the cassette gears around, but discovered that the Suntour cassette has asymmetrical teeth that engage the freehub (thus they cannot be flipped).

 

[vspa]

i don't know what your budget is, but it sounds like you need a complete new drivetrain: BB + Crankset + Chain + Cassette

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Well I figured as much... I don't have a budget per say, but I'm not planning on putting too much money into this bike other than keeping it running decently (which it already is). Overall it's an old bike that could could benefit from a lot of new components. However, at that point I could just buy a new bike for the cost of those new components. This is my first real road bike and I wanted to get a feel for if I'd like it or not. I've always been biased to MTBs.

I thought I would do the following:

• Shimano Freehub (7spd) ~$20 like this: Shimano STX-RC & Acera-X 7-speed freehub body
• Shimano 11-28 cassette ~$20 like this: Shimano HG50 Cassette
• Shimano BB ~$20 like this: Shimano BB-UN54
• Chain

Would I really need a new crankset or just the chainrings (those seem in good condition). My concern is with the BB since it is in fact a 70 mm shell size, but the cups have 1.37"x24 tpi printed on them...

 

[alfeng]

Originally Posted by bmwpowere36m3 .

Well I figured as much... I don't have a budget per say, but I'm not planning on putting too much money into this bike other than keeping it running decently (which it already is). Overall it's an old bike that could could benefit from a lot of new components. However, at that point I could just buy a new bike for the cost of those new components. This is my first real road bike and I wanted to get a feel for if I'd like it or not. I've always been biased to MTBs.

I thought I would do the following:

• Shimano Freehub (7spd) ~$20 like this: Shimano STX-RC & Acera-X 7-speed freehub body
• Shimano 11-28 cassette ~$20 like this: Shimano HG50 Cassette
• Shimano BB ~$20 like this: Shimano BB-UN54
• Chain

Would I really need a new crankset or just the chainrings (those seem in good condition). [COLOR= #ff0000]My concern is with the BB since it is in fact a 70 mm shell size, but the cups have 1.37"x24 tpi printed on them...[/COLOR]

First, this may be stating the obvious, but the driveside BB cup has a LEFT HAND thread ...

Periodically, bicycle frame designers apparently try to improve on the standard 68mm, English threaded BB ... the c1978 FUJI S10-S frame which I have also has an annoying-to-me 70mm BB shell with English threads ...

• on the particular Fuji frame, the extra 2mm appear to be on the non-driveside of the shell?!?

Either some engineer, somewhere, wrote a "white paper" suggesting that the asymmtrical forces imparted by pedaling could be mitigated by employing a wider BB or possibly Fuji's engineer came up with the idea, independently ... regardless, now you know that your frame may not have a unique design ...

• Unfortunately for me, I learned of the asymmetry when I tried to install a Hollowtech II crankset ... problematic.

[COLOR= #ff0000]You will want to measure your BB for symmetry.[/COLOR]

Fortunately-for-me, a standard, cartridge BB can be used on the particular Fuji frame ...

BTW. Cassettes & Freewheels serve the same function, but are different and intended for different rear hub designs ...

Unfortunately, there is ZERO continuity with square taper BBs ... you need to know the specific length of the current spindle AND whether it is symmetrical or asymmetrical PLUS whether it is JIS (Shimano compatible) or ISO (Campagnolo compatible).

IMO, there is nothing wrong with spending money on an old bike ... most good components can be migrated to a future frame.

On older, non-cartridge BBs, the bearings can be replaced & the BB repacked with fresh grease ([COLOR= #808080]e.g., White Lithium[/COLOR]).