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Hardcore offroad machine *g*

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Australia and New Zealand
Published
11 September 2003
Last activity
15 September 2003
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Arpit
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  1. Im becoming more and more serious about off road riding on my kmart
    bike. At the moment, I have a 50 watt halogen light with a 60 degree
    spread. Im planning to add onto this 4 20 degree 20 watt halogen spots
    pointed much further away. Ive worked out that a car battery would be
    an easy way to power these. Yes, it'll be heavy, but 15 kilos or so
    isnt much compared to a human's weight. Plus it'll make me go faster
    downhill 🙂 Im thinking about mounting it on a rear rack, panniers i
    think they are called. WIll a cheap one be strong enough to hold it as
    im bouncing over rocks?

  2. 50W.....is that all?????

    At the MONT 24hr last year I saw a dude with a rectangular 120W driving
    light from a car mounted on the bracer bar on his downhill handlebars. He
    had a 7Ah battery and was about to set off on a lap. I think the quickest
    lap time was about 45min or something, with most people doing more like an
    hour. A few quick calculations....120W at 12V = 10A. There was no way that
    his battery was going to last a lap and I told him so....he was pretty
    confident that it would so off he went. I must admit, it did look pretty
    spectacular as he took off, but I later saw him come in at the end of his
    lap.....he was sitting right behind another guy as he had no juice left in
    his battery.

    Hated to say it, but as he rode up the last stretch of road I yelled out
    "bloody toldya mate".....he thought that was pretty funny (at least I think
    he did)

    Gags
    "Arpit" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Im becoming more and more serious about off road riding on my kmart
    bike. At the moment, I have a 50 watt halogen light with a 60 degree
    spread. Im planning to add onto this 4 20 degree 20 watt halogen spots
    pointed much further away. Ive worked out that a car battery would be
    an easy way to power these. Yes, it'll be heavy, but 15 kilos or so
    isnt much compared to a human's weight. Plus it'll make me go faster
    downhill 🙂 Im thinking about mounting it on a rear rack, panniers i
    think they are called. WIll a cheap one be strong enough to hold it as
    im bouncing over rocks?

  3. Arpit said:


    Im becoming more and more serious about off road riding on my kmart
    bike. At the moment, I have a 50 watt halogen light with a 60 degree
    spread. Im planning to add onto this 4 20 degree 20 watt halogen spots
    pointed much further away. Ive worked out that a car battery would be
    an easy way to power these. Yes, it'll be heavy, but 15 kilos or so
    isnt much compared to a human's weight. Plus it'll make me go faster
    downhill 🙂 Im thinking about mounting it on a rear rack, panniers i
    think they are called. WIll a cheap one be strong enough to hold it as
    im bouncing over rocks?

    Can I suggest a SLA 12V 18AmpHr battery instead. Weighs 6kg. Modify a
    battery holder to camp it to a back rack (I brazed a support plat onto
    mine). My racks are proper touring racks (test for side sway).

    I have found that 2 x 20Watt set off at angles are sufficent for bush
    track of a night time, althought the 50W in a closer beam would be handy
    on the good runs.

    I like Moz's bent bicycle spoke attachment methods for the MR?? halogen,
    or you can pick up a pair of halogen driving lights from cheap auto
    stores.

    --
    Terry Collins {:-)}}} email: terryc at woa.com.au www:
    http://www.woa.com.au
    Wombat Outdoor Adventures <Bicycles, Computers, GIS, Printing,
    Publishing>

    "People without trees are like fish without clean water"

  4. haha - I saw that thing too

    "Gags" <drgagnon@nospam_ozemail.com.au> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...
    50W.....is that all?????

    At the MONT 24hr last year I saw a dude with a rectangular 120W driving
    light from a car mounted on the bracer bar on his downhill handlebars. He
    had a 7Ah battery and was about to set off on a lap. I think the quickest
    lap time was about 45min or something, with most people doing more like an
    hour. A few quick calculations....120W at 12V = 10A. There was no way that
    his battery was going to last a lap and I told him so....he was pretty
    confident that it would so off he went. I must admit, it did look pretty
    spectacular as he took off, but I later saw him come in at the end of his
    lap.....he was sitting right behind another guy as he had no juice left in
    his battery.

    Hated to say it, but as he rode up the last stretch of road I yelled out
    "bloody toldya mate".....he thought that was pretty funny (at least I think
    he did)

    Gags
    "Arpit" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Im becoming more and more serious about off road riding on my kmart
    bike. At the moment, I have a 50 watt halogen light with a 60 degree
    spread. Im planning to add onto this 4 20 degree 20 watt halogen spots
    pointed much further away. Ive worked out that a car battery would be
    an easy way to power these. Yes, it'll be heavy, but 15 kilos or so
    isnt much compared to a human's weight. Plus it'll make me go faster
    downhill 🙂 Im thinking about mounting it on a rear rack, panniers i
    think they are called. WIll a cheap one be strong enough to hold it as
    im bouncing over rocks?

  5. Terry Collins <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    Can I suggest a SLA 12V 18AmpHr battery instead. Weighs 6kg. Modify a
    battery holder to camp it to a back rack (I brazed a support plat onto
    mine). My racks are proper touring racks (test for side sway).

    Even 18Ah is big. 7A gel cells are easily available and should run a
    single 20W for around 2-3 hours, which is enough for most night rides.
    A decent 20W with a narrow beam is fine for the bars - something using
    Jaycar cat SL2729 for example. I find that's good for around 50kmh on
    the road, so should be similar off road (given that tar is
    considerably less reflective than most dirt tracks)

    The guy who was using the driving light knew it was going to run out,
    and didn't care. Anyone riding a DH bike probably wasn't taking it too
    seriously anyway, and given the amount of silliness in the Southside
    Mafia's compound there's even more evidence that he was there for fun.
    Yes, I was laughing at/with him beforehand.

    I'm a big fan of having a helmet light as well, since it lets you look
    around corners off road. Still playing with helmet lights, since my
    current one is far too expensive to ride into low branches...

    If anyone hasn't seen it, I've got some stuff up on
    http://www.hired-goons.net/lights regarding home made lights. Needs
    some updates, but I've been playing around with building rather than
    documenting lately...

    Dave - who has nearly got the nice 6.5V regulator working

    --
    Dave Hughes
    [email hidden]
    Like most computer techie people, I'll happily spend 6 hours trying to
    figure out how to do a 3 hour job in 10 minutes. --Rev. James Cort

  6. "Random Data" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    <...>

    Quoted message said:


    Even 18Ah is big. 7A gel cells are easily available and should run a
    single 20W for around 2-3 hours, which is enough for most night rides.
    A decent 20W with a narrow beam is fine for the bars - something using
    Jaycar cat SL2729 for example. I find that's good for around 50kmh on
    the road, so should be similar off road (given that tar is
    considerably less reflective than most dirt tracks)

    The guy who was using the driving light knew it was going to run out,
    and didn't care. Anyone riding a DH bike probably wasn't taking it too
    seriously anyway, and given the amount of silliness in the Southside
    Mafia's compound there's even more evidence that he was there for fun.
    Yes, I was laughing at/with him beforehand.

    I'm a big fan of having a helmet light as well, since it lets you look
    around corners off road. Still playing with helmet lights, since my
    current one is far too expensive to ride into low branches...

    If anyone hasn't seen it, I've got some stuff up on
    http://www.hired-goons.net/lights regarding home made lights. Needs
    some updates, but I've been playing around with building rather than
    documenting lately...

    Dave - who has nearly got the nice 6.5V regulator working

    That's a great site ;-)

    It's made me interested in creating my own light set for commuting.

    I'm thinking of creating one with a 12V halogen and 8 rechargable
    batteries - if I went for 8 2100mA hour 1.5V batteries, this should give me
    about 2 hours use right? My thought is that I could create the light and a
    flexible mount for the batteries that I could wrap around the top stem near
    the light with velcro.

    Any thoughts?

    The batteries would be very expensive however.

    What sort of batteries do you use? I saw at [censored] smith they have a RC car
    battery (9.6V 650mAH) for $20 that would be probably suitable for a night or
    two of commuting, and at that price can afford two or so. Are there halogen
    lights that would suit this sort of battery?

    The reason I'm interested in a decent light is for riding on bike tracks at
    night.

    Cheers,

    Tim

  7. On Thu, 11 Sep 2003 21:24:56 +1000, Terry Collins <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:
    Arpit said:


    Im becoming more and more serious about off road riding on my kmart
    bike. At the moment, I have a 50 watt halogen light with a 60 degree
    spread. Im planning to add onto this 4 20 degree 20 watt halogen spots
    pointed much further away. Ive worked out that a car battery would be
    an easy way to power these. Yes, it'll be heavy, but 15 kilos or so
    isnt much compared to a human's weight. Plus it'll make me go faster
    downhill 🙂 Im thinking about mounting it on a rear rack, panniers i
    think they are called. WIll a cheap one be strong enough to hold it as
    im bouncing over rocks?

    Can I suggest a SLA 12V 18AmpHr battery instead. Weighs 6kg. Modify a
    battery holder to camp it to a back rack (I brazed a support plat onto
    mine). My racks are proper touring racks (test for side sway).


    Thing is those are twice the price of a sealed car battery, and haldf
    the capacity.

    Quoted message said:

    I have found that 2 x 20Watt set off at angles are sufficent for bush
    track of a night time, althought the 50W in a closer beam would be handy
    on the good runs.

    I like Moz's bent bicycle spoke attachment methods for the MR?? halogen,
    or you can pick up a pair of halogen driving lights from cheap auto
    stores.

    I actually use garden lights taped to the bars. I had a big crash
    today at about 60km/h on a steep rocky slope. im all cut up, ow, and i
    had to cycle on a bad kneww for 5 km back home. the front wheel was
    bent and so wer erthe handlebars, but the lights fine 🙂 I just cut it
    off though, the bikes a write off.

  8. On 11 Sep 2003 16:13:54 -0700, [email hidden] (Random Data)

    Quoted message said:

    Terry Collins <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    Can I suggest a SLA 12V 18AmpHr battery instead. Weighs 6kg. Modify a
    battery holder to camp it to a back rack (I brazed a support plat onto
    mine). My racks are proper touring racks (test for side sway).

    Even 18Ah is big. 7A gel cells are easily available and should run a
    single 20W for around 2-3 hours, which is enough for most night rides.
    A decent 20W with a narrow beam is fine for the bars - something using
    Jaycar cat SL2729 for example. I find that's good for around 50kmh on
    the road, so should be similar off road (given that tar is
    considerably less reflective than most dirt tracks)

    I use a 7amp hour battery at the moment driving a 50 watt, its pretty
    good. but you arent supposed to run them anywhere near flat, and they
    are rated for 7 amp hour at basically trickle use, not 2-4 amps.

    Quoted message said:

    The guy who was using the driving light knew it was going to run out,
    and didn't care. Anyone riding a DH bike probably wasn't taking it too
    seriously anyway, and given the amount of silliness in the Southside
    Mafia's compound there's even more evidence that he was there for fun.
    Yes, I was laughing at/with him beforehand.

    I'm a big fan of having a helmet light as well, since it lets you look
    around corners off road. Still playing with helmet lights, since my
    current one is far too expensive to ride into low branches...

    Not bright enough tho 🙂

    Quoted message said:

    If anyone hasn't seen it, I've got some stuff up on
    http://www.hired-goons.net/lights regarding home made lights. Needs
    some updates, but I've been playing around with building rather than
    documenting lately...

    Nice 🙂

    Quoted message said:

    Dave - who has nearly got the nice 6.5V regulator working

  9. "Arpit" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Im becoming more and more serious about off road riding on my kmart
    bike. At the moment, I have a 50 watt halogen light with a 60 degree
    spread. Im planning to add onto this 4 20 degree 20 watt halogen spots
    pointed much further away. Ive worked out that a car battery would be
    an easy way to power these. Yes, it'll be heavy, but 15 kilos or so
    isnt much compared to a human's weight. Plus it'll make me go faster
    downhill 🙂 Im thinking about mounting it on a rear rack, panniers i
    think they are called. WIll a cheap one be strong enough to hold it as
    im bouncing over rocks?

    FYI, the Fat Hippy says no to mounting a battery on the back rack:

  10. "Tim Jones" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Arpit" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Im becoming more and more serious about off road riding on my kmart
    bike. At the moment, I have a 50 watt halogen light with a 60 degree
    spread. Im planning to add onto this 4 20 degree 20 watt halogen spots
    pointed much further away. Ive worked out that a car battery would be
    an easy way to power these. Yes, it'll be heavy, but 15 kilos or so
    isnt much compared to a human's weight. Plus it'll make me go faster
    downhill 🙂 Im thinking about mounting it on a rear rack, panniers i
    think they are called. WIll a cheap one be strong enough to hold it as
    im bouncing over rocks?

    FYI, the Fat Hippy says no to mounting a battery on the back rack:

    http://members.iinet.net.au/~fathers/rack.htm

    And that was with just a 3kg battery - I don't think your 15kg one would
    last too long!

    Maybe it would go better have one in a pannier bag, that way a lot of the
    bounce would be take up by the material rather than the rack itself. But
    that then precludes the full car battery...

    Tim

  11. "Tim Jones" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    I'm thinking of creating one with a 12V halogen and 8 rechargable
    batteries - if I went for 8 2100mA hour 1.5V batteries, this should give me
    about 2 hours use right?

    You'll need 10 to get 12V, since rechargeables are 1.2V. In fact, it's
    worth getting 11 and running a 13.2V pack - you get around 20% more
    light, at the expense of about 50% bulb life. Given most MR16 bulbs
    have a rated life around 5000 hours and cost around $7, I'm willing to
    do that...

    Given a voltage and a wattage, you can calculate the current by
    dividing watts by volts - a 20W bulb at 12V draws 1.7A. Your 2.1Ah
    cells will last a bit over an hour. From memory, the spec sheet for
    the 2Ah cells I saw implied that at 2A draw you'd get 50 minutes life
    (the 2000mA is the full life at a more moderate load - NiMH batteries
    are pretty good at high currents, but nothing's perfect).

    Quoted message said:

    What sort of batteries do you use? I saw at [censored] smith they have a RC car
    battery (9.6V 650mAH) for $20 that would be probably suitable for a night or
    two of commuting, and at that price can afford two or so. Are there halogen
    lights that would suit this sort of battery?

    Not really. You could make a Pulse Width Modulation regulator to drop
    it to 6V, and get around 1Ah equivalent. But that's fiddly, and 6V
    stuff is a little tricky to get hold of. It's easier to just get 12V
    globes, and then a bunch of NiMH AAs from Jaycar - 10 2Ah ones will
    set you back around $60 off the top of my head.

    Dave - who commutes with 11 AAs in a Topeak mini saddle bag.

    --
    Dave Hughes
    [email hidden]
    A man might spend his life peering at the private life of elementary
    particles and then find he either knew who he was or where he was,
    but not both. -- Terry Pratchett, Hogfather

  12. <snip>
    That's a great site ;-)

    It's made me interested in creating my own light set for commuting.

    I'm thinking of creating one with a 12V halogen and 8 rechargable
    batteries - if I went for 8 2100mA hour 1.5V batteries, this should give me
    about 2 hours use right? My thought is that I could create the light and a
    flexible mount for the batteries that I could wrap around the top stem near
    the light with velcro.

    Any thoughts?
    <snip>

    Tim, I reckon that you are onto a winner in making your own lights. I have
    also posted some info on my home made lights at
    http://members.ozemail.com.au/~drgagnon

    <snip>
    The batteries would be very expensive however.

    What sort of batteries do you use? I saw at [censored] smith they have a RC car
    battery (9.6V 650mAH) for $20 that would be probably suitable for a night or
    two of commuting, and at that price can afford two or so. Are there halogen
    lights that would suit this sort of battery?
    <snip>

    I would say that the RC batteries at 650mAh would probably be OK if you were
    making a light using white LEDs, but from experience with the set that I
    made, they are not as good for off-road adventures as the 20W halogens. If
    you look on my sit at the V3 lights, it is the dual 20W setup that I reckon
    is ideal for off-road. One 35 degree and one 12 degree globe to give a low
    beam/high beam setup. (see web site for details). They are easy to make and
    very cheap.

    My recommendation with batteries is to start off with a Sealed Lead Acid
    (SLA). They are relatively cheap (I recently bought two 12V, 3.2Ah
    batteries for $30 each for some lights that I am making for a mate and his
    missus). They are also pretty tolerant to abuse and not too fussy about
    charging techniques. You can get away with a wall plug type charger (I just
    bought a couple from Radio Parts Group in Melbourne for $20 each) that
    basically use a constant voltage to charge initially at the max rate of the
    charger (500mA for the ones that i bought), then tapers off to a trickle
    charge as the battery nears full charge so that you can leave them
    connnected for long periods of time without worrying about overcharging
    them.

    NiMh and NiCd batteries, although lighter and smaller are a bit more
    expensive and a bit more fussy when it comes to charging. They are
    generally charged using a constant current and so you need to be careful
    with the cheap and nasty type chargers as they don't switch to a trickle
    charge and you will shorten the life of thebatteries if you accidently leave
    them on charge over the whole weekend (as I am known to do on a regular
    basis). i am planning on building a PIC controlled "smart charger" for my
    NiMh pack soon, as at the moment I am using a constant current charger that
    I made up as an interim measure so I need to remember to take them off
    charge before they get damaged.

    Anway, good luck with making your lights......give me a buzz if you need any
    technical advice.

    Cheers,

    Gags

  13. "Random Data" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...
    <...>

    Quoted message said:

    A man might spend his life peering at the private life of elementary
    particles and then find he either knew who he was or where he was,
    but not both. -- Terry Pratchett, Hogfather

    Thanks for the info, much appreciated!

    Tim

  14. "Gags" <drgagnon@nospam_ozemail.com.au> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...
    <...>

    Quoted message said:

    Anway, good luck with making your lights......give me a buzz if you need


    any

    Quoted message said:

    technical advice.

    Thanks for the info! I am thinking about combining a 20W 12V light setup
    with an 8 LED swirling light (a kit pack from JarCar) - would give me good
    visibility on the road and decent sight on darkish bike paths...

    Cheers,

    Tim

  15. Quoted message said:

    My recommendation with batteries is to start off with a Sealed Lead Acid
    (SLA). They are relatively cheap (I recently bought two 12V, 3.2Ah
    batteries for $30 each for some lights that I am making for a mate and his
    missus). They are also pretty tolerant to abuse and not too fussy about
    charging techniques


    The funny thing about lead acid batteries this size is, they cost more than
    the next size up. A 7Ah batteries costs $21, figure that out
    l have a 7Ah one on my bike and have got 3 hours out of it with a 20w bulb.
    No idea yet how long the battery will last going that depth of discharge,
    but they are only $21 each and l don't do 3 hour night rides very often, so
    it should last awhile

  16. stu said:
    Quoted message said:

    My recommendation with batteries is to start off with a Sealed Lead Acid
    (SLA). They are relatively cheap (I recently bought two 12V, 3.2Ah
    batteries for $30 each for some lights that I am making for a mate and his
    missus). They are also pretty tolerant to abuse and not too fussy about
    charging techniques


    The funny thing about lead acid batteries this size is, they cost more than
    the next size up. A 7Ah batteries costs $21, figure that out
    l have a 7Ah one on my bike and have got 3 hours out of it with a 20w bulb.
    No idea yet how long the battery will last going that depth of discharge,
    but they are only $21 each and l don't do 3 hour night rides very often, so
    it should last awhile

    where do you get them for 21 dollars? mine cost 25

  17. radio parts
    http://www.customer-self-service.com/radioparts/
    Yasa 12V
    2.6Ah $42.97
    7Ah $38.68
    Doss
    2.3Ah $20.46
    7Ah $21.64

    so it looks like they have fixed the prices up a little since l bought my
    battery a couple of months again

  18. I was lucky enough to buy some surplus NEC Lithium Ion batteries from
    Oatley electronics. Nothing beats them for power to weight. All that
    is needed to charge them is a current and voltage limited power supply.
    A friend uses a benchtop PSU from jaycar. I have some other
    batteries pulled from dead laptops. I just bought a new Dell laptop and
    the battery has 95 watt/hours and probably weighs just over a 1 Kg.
    I'll have to bring it into work to weigh it. My guess is around 1.2 to
    1.5 Kg.
    The major problem with lithium Ion batteries is the discharge curve is
    quite step so a voltage regulate is needed. If you email me (remove
    pants) I can give details on a pretty simple 555 timer circuit to do
    this. One day I'll get around to using a microcontroller with an A to D.

    Arpit said:

    Im becoming more and more serious about off road riding on my kmart
    bike. At the moment, I have a 50 watt halogen light with a 60 degree
    spread. Im planning to add onto this 4 20 degree 20 watt halogen spots
    pointed much further away. Ive worked out that a car battery would be
    an easy way to power these. Yes, it'll be heavy, but 15 kilos or so
    isnt much compared to a human's weight. Plus it'll make me go faster
    downhill 🙂 Im thinking about mounting it on a rear rack, panniers i
    think they are called. WIll a cheap one be strong enough to hold it as
    im bouncing over rocks?

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