How do I find out the measurements of my bike?



Leaf

New Member
May 16, 2006
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I got a road bike given to me. I just started riding it and experienced, back pain and hand pain (from leaning forward on my hands). Im 5'9. 180 PDS. What size bike do I want? How do I measure the bike? And could this back pain / hand pain just been attributed to inactivity on the bike or does it have to do with the handle bar height and seat height? If so how do I fit my bike to my size?

Please and thanks.
 
The problem with seat tube measurement is that it will vary depending on the top tube angle. Compact frames make this measurement less useful.

A more important measurement is top tube length, but this needs to be measured on a horizontal plane to be able to compare it to different frames, compact or not.

To make a bike fit you need to get the seat height right and it's fore aft position. Both of these can be calculated by measuring yourself and by using a plumb line while sitting on the bike. Go googling. The next most important adjustment is stem length, and this usually means purchasing a new stem.

Good luck.
 
Also when I have my bike in the easiest gear it seems to skip... at least it makes a weird noise. I had a tuneup, I assume everything on this bike is in tip top shape since then... am I wrong?
 
Just because a bike shop has tuned your bike it doesn't mean that it's likely to be all 100% ok.

You should buy a good bicycle maintenance book, like "Zinn & the art of bicycle maintenance" and have a go at it yourself.

Bicycles really need constant attention and tweaking for them to stay at their best, and paying someone to do this doesn't make sense.

It sounds like you may have a little cable stretch in your rear derailleur.
 
miyata610 said:
Just because a bike shop has tuned your bike it doesn't mean that it's likely to be all 100% ok.

You should buy a good bicycle maintenance book, like "Zinn & the art of bicycle maintenance" and have a go at it yourself.

Bicycles really need constant attention and tweaking for them to stay at their best, and paying someone to do this doesn't make sense.

It sounds like you may have a little cable stretch in your rear derailleur.
Alright, I figured something was wrong. I will look for that book.

Thanks!
 
Often times you can find the geometry and sizes of your bike at the manufacturers website.
 
If it is skipping immediately after being tuned up then it could be a chain and/or cassette issue. Mainly one or both of them being worn out and needing to be replaced. How old is the bike, and was it always lubed and maintained regularly? Was the cassette or chain ever replaced?


A good bike fit is worth the $75 or so that a shop will charge you.
 
ToffoIsMe said:
If it is skipping immediately after being tuned up then it could be a chain and/or cassette issue. Mainly one or both of them being worn out and needing to be replaced. How old is the bike, and was it always lubed and maintained regularly? Was the cassette or chain ever replaced?


A good bike fit is worth the $75 or so that a shop will charge you.
Id rather not pay and fit it myself. I know you want your leg fully extended. but I assume its not TOTALLY fully extended, just enough to your leg isnt straight?
 
Leaf said:
Also when I have my bike in the easiest gear it seems to skip... at least it makes a weird noise. I had a tuneup, I assume everything on this bike is in tip top shape since then... am I wrong?
A tune up done in a bike stand will not always show problems that occur on the road. This most often occurs when there is too much chain wear and/or cog wear and/or ring wear. When there are shifting problems that don't occur in the bike stand, the bike needs to be tested on the road or a trainer.
 
I posted this in another forum - I like to learn and understand everything I can about cycling - I have paid for my LBS to fit me but still explore this Bill Boston program and refer back to Greg Lemond's cyclist training book for my own edification


Re: Wrong geometry-starting from scratch after 20 years
Dont know if its to late but I took the advice of someone on this or the Serotta forum and purchased the Bill Boston program for fit. I have never been so comfortable on a bike. I have always ridden bikes that are to big and now, such a difference. I cant recomend this enough - go to your local bike shop but download his program and check and fine tune etc.....


http://www.billbostoncycles.com/

I had never heard of him before but after doing some more research my local bike shop knows him and found this on the Spectrum site .... http://www.spectrum-cycles.com.....


[size=-1]Bill Boston (http://www.billbostoncycles.com)- Long retired from frame building, Bill was my master when I first entered the frame business. Brilliant, single-minded pursuit of excellence in frame design characterized Bill's extraordinary work. Bill taught us at Spectrum to never compromise on anything related to quality. Thanks Bill. [/size]
 
Oh man, you guys are gonna laugh at me.

Ok so my brakes were touching wheels, so I attempted to fix them (Using the Zinn and Road Bike Maintenance Book). Well somehow I ended up striping the screw that is attached to the brake cable.... and now it wont go in and my rear brake is totally loose lol.

So when I buy a new break cable does this screw thing come already attached to it? And ****, I might have to buy a new thing that the screw goes into!

Live and learn i guess. lol
 
Leaf said:
Oh man, you guys are gonna laugh at me.

Ok so my brakes were touching wheels, so I attempted to fix them (Using the Zinn and Road Bike Maintenance Book). Well somehow I ended up striping the screw that is attached to the brake cable.... and now it wont go in and my rear brake is totally loose lol.

So when I buy a new break cable does this screw thing come already attached to it? And ****, I might have to buy a new thing that the screw goes into!

Live and learn i guess. lol
Also I wanan buy a new bike, but dont want to have maintenance mishaps like this on it ;)
 
Leaf said:
Also I wanan buy a new bike, but dont want to have maintenance mishaps like this on it ;)
the good old 'heels on the pedals' setup still works as (at least) a very good starting point

Sit on the bike with no shoes on, put your heels on the pedals (on the flat bit, not the clip :)), then pedal backwards. With your heels on the pedals you should be able to just reach the pedals at the bottom of each stroke, with your legs pretty much dead straight, without having to rock your **** off the saddle.