Well, the Kona Dew Beer Fetchmaster had been ultra reliable since I bought it, as I tuned the wheels and repacked the front hub first thing with actual grease. The rear hub I just adjusted the cones a smidge without looking inside. So I'd been hearing that gentle "tic" of bearings falling on each other, which means ya need grease, so cracked the rear hub and found that there was a bearing missing and zero grease on the drive side! Fortunately there was only one tiny pit on the cone. Scott at the LBS seemed quite proud to provide me with a bearing "on the house! What a wise guy.
I mean, can one really expect a full compliment of ball bearings for $400? In other news, [censored] single wall Rigida rims stay perfectly true despite urban abuse--if they actually have tensioned spokes.
$400 bikes are apparently as good as the wrench that assembles them from the box--gee, who'd a thunk it?
Well, the Kona Dew Beer Fetchmaster had been ultra reliable since I bought it, as I tuned the wheels and repacked the front hub first thing with actual grease. The rear hub I just adjusted the cones a smidge without looking inside. So I'd been hearing that gentle "tic" of bearings falling on each other, which means ya need grease, so cracked the rear hub and found that there was a bearing missing and zero grease on the drive side! Fortunately there was only one tiny pit on the cone. Scott at the LBS seemed quite proud to provide me with a bearing "on the house! What a wise guy.
I mean, can one really expect a full compliment of ball bearings for $400? In other news, [censored] single wall Rigida rims stay perfectly true despite urban abuse--if they actually have tensioned spokes.
$400 bikes are apparently as good as the wrench that assembles them from the box
Same for $1400 bikes, $4000 bikes, etc. I've been really surprised at the el-crapo assembly/prep on some $1000+ bikes I've seen the past several years.
"landotter" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Well, the Kona Dew Beer Fetchmaster had been ultra reliable since I bought it, as I tuned the wheels and repacked the front hub first thing with actual grease. The rear hub I just adjusted the cones a smidge without looking inside. So I'd been hearing that gentle "tic" of bearings falling on each other, which means ya need grease, so cracked the rear hub and found that there was a bearing missing and zero grease on the drive side! Fortunately there was only one tiny pit on the cone. Scott at the LBS seemed quite proud to provide me with a bearing "on the house! What a wise guy.
I mean, can one really expect a full compliment of ball bearings for $400? In other news, [censored] single wall Rigida rims stay perfectly true despite urban abuse--if they actually have tensioned spokes.
$400 bikes are apparently as good as the wrench that assembles them from the box--gee, who'd a thunk it?
From what I remember, Scott should have provided you with a drive side worth of balls. The new one is likely to be significantly different in diameter than the old ones (not because it's newer, but because it came from a different manufacturing batch). Much better to replace all the balls with a new set. Kerry
Well, the Kona Dew Beer Fetchmaster had been ultra reliable since I bought it, as I tuned the wheels and repacked the front hub first thing with actual grease. The rear hub I just adjusted the cones a smidge without looking inside. So I'd been hearing that gentle "tic" of bearings falling on each other, which means ya need grease, so cracked the rear hub and found that there was a bearing missing and zero grease on the drive side! Fortunately there was only one tiny pit on the cone. Scott at the LBS seemed quite proud to provide me with a bearing "on the house! What a wise guy.
Quoted message said:
I mean, can one really expect a full compliment of ball bearings for $400? In other news, [censored] single wall Rigida rims stay perfectly true despite urban abuse--if they actually have tensioned spokes.
Quoted message said:
$400 bikes are apparently as good as the wrench that assembles them from the box--gee, who'd a thunk it?
From what I remember, Scott should have provided you with a drive side worth of balls. The new one is likely to be significantly different in diameter than the old ones (not because it's newer, but because it came from a different manufacturing batch). Much better to replace all the balls with a new set. Kerry- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
right. a most serious LBS error: a malicious, dangerous, intentional first degree felony. The LBS is liable for damages. Find another shop.
From what I remember, Scott should have provided you with a drive side worth of balls. The new one is likely to be significantly different in diameter than the old ones (not because it's newer, but because it came from a different manufacturing batch). Much better to replace all the balls with a new set.
The difference between batches is very, very small. Larger than the difference between individual balls from a batch, but still hardly worth worrying about.
On Thu, 1 Nov 2007 21:41:00 -0700, "Kerry Montgomery"
Quoted message said:
From what I remember, Scott should have provided you with a drive side worth of balls. The new one is likely to be significantly different in diameter than the old ones (not because it's newer, but because it came from a different manufacturing batch). Much better to replace all the balls with a new set.
The difference between batches is very, very small. Larger than the difference between individual balls from a batch, but still hardly worth worrying about.
I turns very smooth now. It's a [censored] Formula, but feels about as smooth as a Deore hub--plenty nice for a utility bike.
There really are bargains to be found at the $400 end of the big manufacturers' range if you want a new utility bike. Just don't expect a bike shop to spend a whole lot of time dialing them in.
"Jasper Janssen" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Kerry Montgomery said:
From what I remember, Scott should have provided you with a drive side worth of balls. The new one is likely to be significantly different in diameter than the old ones (not because it's newer, but because it came from a different manufacturing batch). Much better to replace all the balls with a new set.
The difference between batches is very, very small. Larger than the difference between individual balls from a batch, but still hardly worth worrying about.
Jasper, Darned if I know how much is worth worrying about - but from: http://www.dejaydistribution.co.uk/ball_grades.html if you buy Grade 25 (the best that www.loosescrews.com sells), the basic diameter tolerance is twice the allowable lot diameter variation (0.0001" vs. 0.000048"😉. If you mix balls from different lots, you might as well buy balls from a single lot of a lower grade. Kerry
"Jasper Janssen" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
On Thu, 1 Nov 2007 21:41:00 -0700, "Kerry Montgomery" <[email hidden]> wrote:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
From what I remember, Scott should have provided you with a drive side worth of balls. The new one is likely to be significantly different in diameter than the old ones (not because it's newer, but because it came from a different manufacturing batch). Much better to replace all the balls with a new set.
Quoted message said:
The difference between batches is very, very small. Larger than the difference between individual balls from a batch, but still hardly worth worrying about.
Jasper, Darned if I know how much is worth worrying about - but from:http://www.dejaydistribution.co.uk/ball_grades.html if you buy Grade 25 (the best thatwww.loosescrews.comsells), the basic diameter tolerance is twice the allowable lot diameter variation (0.0001" vs. 0.000048"😉. If you mix balls from different lots, you might as well buy balls from a single lot of a lower grade. Kerry
I seriously doubt this thing had 25 grade in there already. I'll just put some nice round ones in there for spring.
NO. an ongoing arguement splitting hairs on why or why not DIFFERENT size bearings are or are NOT acceptable in the same race is expletive deleted stupid. get 11/22 bearings from the same sack, inspect sizes to be sure the bearings are of the same size. and replace all the bearings with good grease like Castrol marine for a buck at Walmort. when taking apart again, checking play regularly because its expletive deleted, THROW THE OLD BEARINGS AWAY and start over. for 2-3 bucks the arguement is incroyable.
"Jasper Janssen" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Kerry Montgomery said:
From what I remember, Scott should have provided you with a drive side worth of balls. The new one is likely to be significantly different in diameter than the old ones (not because it's newer, but because it came from a different manufacturing batch). Much better to replace all the balls with a new set.
The difference between batches is very, very small. Larger than the difference between individual balls from a batch, but still hardly worth worrying about.
Jasper, Darned if I know how much is worth worrying about - but from: http://www.dejaydistribution.co.uk/ball_grades.html if you buy Grade 25 (the best that www.loosescrews.com sells), the basic diameter tolerance is twice the allowable lot diameter variation (0.0001" vs. 0.000048"😉.
and the cups/cones are a good deal looser in tolerance than that!
Quoted message said:
If you mix balls from different lots, you might as well buy balls from a single lot of a lower grade. Kerry
On Thu, 1 Nov 2007 21:41:00 -0700, "Kerry Montgomery"
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
From what I remember, Scott should have provided you with a drive side worth of balls. The new one is likely to be significantly different in diameter than the old ones (not because it's newer, but because it came from a different manufacturing batch). Much better to replace all the balls with a new set.
Quoted message said:
The difference between batches is very, very small. Larger than the difference between individual balls from a batch, but still hardly worth worrying about.
I turns very smooth now. It's a [censored] Formula, but feels about as smooth as a Deore hub--plenty nice for a utility bike.
There really are bargains to be found at the $400 end of the big manufacturers' range if you want a new utility bike.
And for quite a bit less than $400 if you bypass the LBS, buy on the internet and are willing to have a less than "big name" on your downtube.
Quoted message said:
Just don't expect a bike shop to spend a whole lot of time dialing them in.
buy on the internet and are willing to have a less than "big name" on your
downtube.
Quoted message said:
Anther reason to bypass the LBS!
At Walmart.com, you can buy all sorts on name brands on the downtube. Roadmaster, Schwinn, Mongoose and more! All at less than half the price of a $400 bicycle.
Yet another reason to bypass the LBS! Famous names and low prices. What more can you ask for?
buy on the internet and are willing to have a less than "big name" on your
downtube.
Quoted message said:
Another reason to bypass the LBS!
Nice job of snipping to change/eliminate the context, [censored].
Quoted message said:
At Walmart.com, you can buy all sorts on name brands on the downtube. Roadmaster, Schwinn, Mongoose and more! All at less than half the price of a $400 bicycle.
Yet another reason to bypass the LBS! Famous names and low prices. What more can you ask for?
I could ask for you to "grow a brain", but why ask the impossible?
I agree. If you are into racing bikes, you can get a perfectly nice race ready bike for about $550 with 105 components and a nice aluminum frame and carbon fork, nice wheels etc. If you know basic bike mechanics, you are on your way. If you don't know mechanics you need to go through the bike shop or a friend.
From what I remember, Scott should have provided you with a drive side worth of balls. The new one is likely to be significantly different in diameter than the old ones (not because it's newer, but because it came from a different manufacturing batch). Much better to replace all the balls with a new set.
Quoted message said:
The difference between batches is very, very small. Larger than the difference between individual balls from a batch, but still hardly worth worrying about.
Elastic deformation of bearing balls and races under load is many times larger than ball size differences among ones of the same nominal size. Even these are not necessarily from the same machine (set) from a bearing manufacturer. I don't believe you can detect a ball size differenced using a digital micrometer or caliper with 1/10,000 inch resolution. In fact, bearing balls are a good standard against which to test you measurement instrument.
This is another bugaboo people want to toss into the ring as though it were an important consideration. In that light, remember that rotation mass on your bicycle counts twice... and many other fables.
From what I remember, Scott should have provided you with a drive side worth of balls. The new one is likely to be significantly different in diameter than the old ones (not because it's newer, but because it came from a different manufacturing batch). Much better to replace all the balls with a new set.
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
The difference between batches is very, very small. Larger than the difference between individual balls from a batch, but still hardly worth worrying about.
Quoted message said:
I turns very smooth now. It's a [censored] Formula, but feels about as smooth as a Deore hub--plenty nice for a utility bike.
Running smoothly is dependent primarily on the condition of the races, bearing balls seldom having blemishes without the races becoming damaged first. It is rolling over pitted races that most often cases ball spalling.
Quoted message said:
There really are bargains to be found at the $400 end of the big manufacturers' range if you want a new utility bike. Just don't expect a bike shop to spend a whole lot of time dialing them in.
I have a hard time visualizing the worth of bicycles in this category. If its a bicycle to go shopping, a one speed will do, if its a commuter for flat land a three speed hub will do, if it is for average recreational bicycling to go on more than 20 mile loops including hills, a clunk won't do. On the other hand if the bicycle is a poorly maintained good quality bicycle, it may be worth more than that price unless enough of its components are beyond repair.
The whole concept sounds like buying a 1950's car.
NO. an ongoing arguement splitting hairs on why or why not DIFFERENT size bearings are or are NOT acceptable in the same race is expletive deleted stupid. get 11/22 bearings from the same sack, inspect sizes to be sure the bearings are of the same size. and replace all the bearings with good grease like Castrol marine for a buck at Walmort. when taking apart again, checking play regularly because its expletive deleted, THROW THE OLD BEARINGS AWAY and start over. for 2-3 bucks the arguement is incroyable.
Oui!
Since the best practical grade (25) is generally $2 a set or less there's no reasonable argument against it! If your time has any value whatsoever, however small, just replace the full complement of bearings with a matched set of Grade 25 chrome steel balls. Don't mix bearings.
While this does generate a good deal of discussion from time to time, one would do well to spend more time on a thorough cleaning before rebuild than on postulated bearing shortcuts. From what I see, dirt knocked back into a bearing rebuild by home mechanics is a common problem and easy to avoid. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971
> From what I remember, Scott should have provided you with a drive > side worth of balls. The new one is likely to be significantly > different in diameter than the old ones (not because it's newer, > but because it came from a different manufacturing batch). Much > better to replace all the balls with a new set.
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
The difference between batches is very, very small. Larger than the difference between individual balls from a batch, but still hardly worth worrying about.
Quoted message said:
I turns very smooth now. It's a [censored] Formula, but feels about as smooth as a Deore hub--plenty nice for a utility bike.
Running smoothly is dependent primarily on the condition of the races, bearing balls seldom having blemishes without the races becoming damaged first. It is rolling over pitted races that most often cases ball spalling.
Quoted message said:
There really are bargains to be found at the $400 end of the big manufacturers' range if you want a new utility bike. Just don't expect a bike shop to spend a whole lot of time dialing them in.
I have a hard time visualizing the worth of bicycles in this category. If its a bicycle to go shopping, a one speed will do, if its a commuter for flat land a three speed hub will do, if it is for average recreational bicycling to go on more than 20 mile loops including hills, a clunk won't do. On the other hand if the bicycle is a poorly maintained good quality bicycle, it may be worth more than that price unless enough of its components are beyond repair.
The whole concept sounds like buying a 1950's car.
OK now I'm excited. How about an MGA twin cam? -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971
