Hub Gearing

Ride-A-Lot said:

Vince said:

Quoted message said:

Pete uses that German monstrosity that weighs five pounds and is
specifically designed for mountain bikes (i.e. durability). Vince wants
to put a townie bike drivetrain on a mountain bike.

--
o-o-o-o Ride-A-Lot o-o-o-o
www.schnauzers.ws

Why do you think my "townie bike drivetrain" will not be durable? How
are you judging durability?

Those hubs are built with thin aluminum. Water, dirt, and mud WILL get
in them and quickly. That plus the excessive shifting one does on a
mountain bike, the weight distribution of the wheels/rims against the
hub on uneven surfaces, and the "softness" of the components inside the
hub will wear quite quickly. There is a reason those things are NOT
used on mountain bikes, even Walgooses.

I really don't care what you spend your money on. If you want
inexpensive yet durable, then get a low-end SRAM drivetrain. It will
cost as much as the SA group and probably last 10 times longer.

My .2 worth. No warranties are expressed or implied.

Be forewarned that when other A.M-Bers get a hold of this thread you
will be Barnified for an eternity.

--
o-o-o-o Ride-A-Lot o-o-o-o
www.schnauzers.ws

Easy on throwing around the "Barney" stuff. I was under the impression
that "Barneys" are loudmouth braggart cluebies, often with expensive
stuff, who can't ride but act like they are in charge. Maybe not?

Anyhoo, I think the idea is pretty dope. Not sure I'd do it, but
definitely an interesting conversation piece at the trailhead.

Howevery, I suspect that frame spacing is going to be an issue. IF
you're riding a steel frame, you're either going to wind up crimping in
your 130-135mm frame to fit what's likely a 110 or 120mm spacing.
You're probably also going to have some issues with chainline. I am,
admittably, assuming that it's an older Sturmey AW. If you're on
aluminum frame I suspect your SOL. Oh yeah -- add spacers to the sides
and you'll likely be buying a new axle in the near future.

I've had some issues with sticking Sturmeys, though I'm certainly less
than a stickler for maintenance and it's a potential issue with all
hubs that aren't well cared for. If you're mainly of the
fireroad-riding MTB variety, it might be a fun experiment. Otherwise,
pick a gear in the middle of your current sprockets, cut down the
chain, and cruise SS.

/s

Scott Gordo said:

Howevery, I suspect that frame spacing is going to be an issue. IF
you're riding a steel frame, you're either going to wind up crimping in
your 130-135mm frame to fit what's likely a 110 or 120mm spacing.
You're probably also going to have some issues with chainline. I am,
admittably, assuming that it's an older Sturmey AW. If you're on
aluminum frame I suspect your SOL. Oh yeah -- add spacers to the sides
and you'll likely be buying a new axle in the near future.

Words of wisdom.

I hope you're back in Brooklyn and not on the wrong beach, Gordo.

CC

Scott Gordo said:

Howevery, I suspect that frame spacing is going to be an issue. IF
you're riding a steel frame, you're either going to wind up crimping in
your 130-135mm frame to fit what's likely a 110 or 120mm spacing.
You're probably also going to have some issues with chainline. I am,
admittably, assuming that it's an older Sturmey AW. If you're on
aluminum frame I suspect your SOL. Oh yeah -- add spacers to the sides
and you'll likely be buying a new axle in the near future.

Yes, I will have to pull the frame in to take the hub. It's not a top
of the range bike and the frame is made of steel. No extra spacers
will be necessary.

I'm aware of the chainline issue. There are several methods to correct
this. Usually it requires a shorter bottom bracket spindle. In some
cases it is possible to turn the spindle round to fix the problem.

One point you have touched on which is very valid is whether the AW
axle will withstand being jumped on. Whether I use extra washers or
not, the AW hub is not really designed to be jumped and I have indeed
occasionally had to change broken axles for customers in the past. The
weak point is where the axlekey passes through the axle. It is seldom
an issue with normal riding but may be an issue with offroad riding.
This may be the issue you all need to convince me that I am indeed
insane :-)

As far as maintainance is concerned, all a Sturmey Archer hub needs is
a weekly squirt will the oil can. It takes about 30 seconds (or maybe
up to 3 hours if you can't remember where you put your oil can) It
amazes me how many people will neglect this simple proceedure. It also
amazes me how many of these hubs still tick away merrily after years of
such neglect.

Corvus Corvax said:

Scott Gordo said:

Howevery, I suspect that frame spacing is going to be an issue. IF
you're riding a steel frame, you're either going to wind up crimping in
your 130-135mm frame to fit what's likely a 110 or 120mm spacing.
You're probably also going to have some issues with chainline. I am,
admittably, assuming that it's an older Sturmey AW. If you're on
aluminum frame I suspect your SOL. Oh yeah -- add spacers to the sides
and you'll likely be buying a new axle in the near future.

Words of wisdom.

I hope you're back in Brooklyn and not on the wrong beach, Gordo.

CC

I am, frustratingly, in Brooklyn.

/s

Vince said:

Scott Gordo said:

Howevery, I suspect that frame spacing is going to be an issue. IF
you're riding a steel frame, you're either going to wind up crimping in
your 130-135mm frame to fit what's likely a 110 or 120mm spacing.
You're probably also going to have some issues with chainline. I am,
admittably, assuming that it's an older Sturmey AW. If you're on
aluminum frame I suspect your SOL. Oh yeah -- add spacers to the sides
and you'll likely be buying a new axle in the near future.

Yes, I will have to pull the frame in to take the hub. It's not a top
of the range bike and the frame is made of steel. No extra spacers
will be necessary.

I'm aware of the chainline issue. There are several methods to correct
this. Usually it requires a shorter bottom bracket spindle. In some
cases it is possible to turn the spindle round to fix the problem.

Could also move the chainring to the other side of the tabs or add some
spacers at the bolts.

Quoted message said:

One point you have touched on which is very valid is whether the AW
axle will withstand being jumped on. Whether I use extra washers or
not, the AW hub is not really designed to be jumped and I have indeed
occasionally had to change broken axles for customers in the past. The
weak point is where the axlekey passes through the axle. It is seldom
an issue with normal riding but may be an issue with offroad riding.
This may be the issue you all need to convince me that I am indeed
insane :-)

As far as maintainance is concerned, all a Sturmey Archer hub needs is
a weekly squirt will the oil can. It takes about 30 seconds (or maybe
up to 3 hours if you can't remember where you put your oil can) It
amazes me how many people will neglect this simple proceedure. It also
amazes me how many of these hubs still tick away merrily after years of
such neglect.

Keep an eye on the rear dropouts. I've done something sorta similar
(took a 120mm wide road bike, put on an 110 fixie hub) which worked
great for a couple years until I noticed that the dropout was cracked
halfway through. Can't verify it was directly caused by pulling each
side in 5 mm (the frame is also twenty years old and has lived a proud
but brutal existence) and it was easily rewelded. I'm just sayin'.

I think you should look at this as an interesting sort of a stopgap
solution, like putting a donut tire on your car to replace a flat. You
can get up to speed and all, but don't get cocky.

As far as jumping it, shouldn't be a problem. Landing is a whole
'nother story.

/s

Nyuck nyuck nyuck....