I thought I lost mine a couple of weeks ago, and almost had a heart attack! Luckily I found it. It's good to know someone's making them again.
Though I have both types of tools, I much prefer the Hypercracker to a regular wrench. The splines in the lockring are very shallow, and easy to strip if the lockring is on too tight. The Hypercracker works better because it's clamped in by the dropout. Plus you don't need a chainwhip, or other hack method of holding the cassette.
Looks a better concept than the original in that it bears on the drop out not the stay. The original could lead to dented stays if you were not careful.
Looks a better concept than the original in that it bears on the drop out not the stay. The original could lead to dented stays if you were not careful.
Although the Pamir Hypercracker is one with Nineveh and Tyre, J.A. Stein has just introduced a new, improved version.
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Quoted message said:
i saw this on your site earlier in the week. Does anyone know of any UK suppliers ?
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Looks a better concept than the original in that it bears on the drop out not the stay. The original could lead to dented stays if you were not careful.
the lockring torque spec is only about 20-ft-lbs.
Nevertheless, an overenthusiastic (home-)mechanic can easily get it wrong. Shortly after buying our Cannondale tandem, we put a large gouge in the chainstay when trying to get a recalcitrant cassette off (IIRC I had not installed it myself). At the time, I did wonder if the damage might be fatal, but the subsequent 30,000 miles suggests otherwise.
I don't know about the Hypercracker but cassette lockring tools in general can fit both Shimano and most 8/9/10sp Campagnolo as spline patterns are compatible. New Centaur/Chorus/Record hubs require the tool wall to be thin to clear the freehub nut - so some chunkier-made tools don't suit as their internal diameter is too small.
What is the problem with just doing the lockring up finger tight, with a cassette tool, I never use a chain whip or a spanner.
My lockring has never come undone.
That shouldn't be a problem as long as the lockring doesn't come loose and cassette doesn't rattle or creak. Other people may not have your luck. Slightly different equipment and cycling could lead to different results.
I do mine up very tight because I don't need it loose (and also because I cram more on my hub than there's supposed to be so top sprocket barely engages otherwise - but that's an obscure reason).
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Quoted message said:
Frank X said:
What is the problem with just doing the lockring up finger tight, with a cassette tool, I never use a chain whip or a spanner.
I tighten to the recommended torque so the sprockets stay in place under load.
But the lock ring isn't really under load. On a shimano hyperglide the load is taken by the ridges on the hub, not the lock ring. Only a very minimal force is at virtually right angles to the plane of the chain.
I've never observed that a finger tight lockring allows the sprockets to move enough to cause any shifting (or other?) problems. Is this what you are saying could happen?
On Sun, 4 Jan 2004 17:42:37 -0000, "Frank X" <[email hidden]>
Quoted message said:
I've never observed that a finger tight lockring allows the sprockets to move enough to cause any shifting (or other?) problems. Is this what you are saying could happen?
Looking at the chain-line, there's a reasonable out-of-plane component, so I can understand why Shimano recommend a torque for the lockring. I follow their advice. Especially on 9-speed, where tolerances seem to be tight anyway (I can be a couple of clicks out on the SIS adjustment on my 8- speed with no problems, but the 9-speed must be precisely right or it doesn't shift properly).
