New Powertap Pro Coming Out?
- Thread starter bob_chew
- Start date
bob_chew said:
Actually, Powertap SL
http://www.cycle-ops.com/products/powertapsl.htm
And a pretty sweet stationary w/ power option:
http://www.velonews.com/tech/report/articles/6890.0.html
So basically you pay $400 more for some weight savings (which is at the hub, and not a big deal).claytid said:
The computer and functions are the same, and is the software any better? The current stuff has some glitches that are a pain in the a$$. I try to analyze my sprint power and there is a 1 second flatline where all data is the same for 1 second, which messes with my power display. Not to mention that the speed function is always 1 second behind real time.
This new powertap looks like a complete rip off. (I think the pro model is still very much worth the $725 I paid). Although the wheel is falling apart on me. Lots of broken spokes. I will be rebuilding it with a Velocity Deep V rim this winter.
velomanct said:
The biggest advantage might be the bearing system (key word being might). The old PTs have a pretty weak cup&cone bearing in the freehub. Apparently it's made of peanut butter. Personally I'm a fan of cup&cone bearings, but not the **** ones in the PT. However, sealed cartridge bearings typically have a dust seal but not a true labyrinth water seal like Shimano or Campy cup&cones (see here:http://draco.acs.uci.edu/rbfaq/FAQ/8f.6.html ) . Cartridge bearings are also much more difficult to overhaul or replace (usually).
I've been thinking of doing the deep v thing this winter too.
You are right on about the hub bearings and cones. They are pure ****. I had my LBS replace them and so far so good.beerco said:
I have to true my wheel after every ride and sometimes during my ride! I am up to 5 broken spokes in about 3 weeks.
My new powertap wheel will be, Velocity Deep V 32 hole rim, 14gauge spokes, steel nipples, 3 cross lacing (4x maybe?), and I might tie and soder them too. Can't forget the locktight on the spoke threads. If that doesn't hold up, I may have to switch to SRM and ride a disk or H3!!
Maybe this is a sign I am becoming the track sprinter I want to be? haha
I expect to break more equipment this spring after putting on the muscle this winter. Right now I am looking at some track sprinter handler bars for the roadie. Those lightweight roadie bars don't look very strong.
velomanct said:
You might try looking for a new wheel builder! I've never built a wheel, but I've read a lot on it and have had pretty good success "fixing" my wheels.
I'm only 168lbs and I've broken a few spokes. This happens when a wheel isn't built with enough tension in the spokes. Basically, the wheel has to have enough tension such that none of the spokes go slack no matter what. Thicker spokes make the problem worse because they don't elongate as much as thinner spokes. (BTW I think that 4x won't work on a PT IIRC, some studies have shown that tyeing doesn't make a stronger wheel).
What I did to fix my PT which was going out of true every ride was to first get it nice and true in a stand. I then added about a full turn (maybe turn and a half, I don't remember exactly) to each nipple (in 1/4 turn increments) truing after a 1/2 turn. Also, grab each pair of spokes and squeeze to help stress relieve and seat the spokes into the hub.
The wheel book by Jobst says you should continue to increase tension until the wheel just starts to taco, then back it off by a 1/4 to 1/2 turn. I didn't have the balls to take it that far but ever since I've done this (I did it to two wheels, one PT and one standard) my wheels have been staying true and no more broken spokes.
