New To Cycling



maccy

New Member
Apr 24, 2023
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Hello all, I'm very very new to cycling. I currently use a used schwinn sidewinder (MTB) for road cycling and am looking at getting my first road bike soon. I'm looking at the vilano shadow 3.0. I know it's not the best bike stock. But my plan is to just test the waters of road biking. Possibly upgrading it down the line. Any tips on how to use the handlebars that go down? I have a tendency to not be able to balance as well on those as a standard side hold style for the arms. Should I upgrade with the mid-high tier shimano parts? Possibly switching it out for a 9 speed instead of having 2 cassettes?
 
Welcome!!

Don't get the Vilano. Buy something a little better. I assume the rear sprocket is freewheel. Freewheels are more expensive to upgrade to the finer drive sets because you'll be replacing the wheel hubs as well. You'll end spending at least the same amount you bought the Vilano just to upgrade the 7 speed freewheel to 9 speed freehub set.

Get something with 8 or 9 speed freehub cassette to begin with. Having freehub to start will make upgrades a lot easier and cheaper. Even if it's $200 more expensive than the Vilano, it will be worth it.

Tips to have good balance on a 'drop bar' handlebar on road bikes. Make sure the bike size is the right fit for you. The right fit makes a huge difference in control feel. And IMO since you're totally new to road bikes, I strongly recommend you get your first road bike from a LBS (Local bike shop), purchasing directly from the bike shop where the shop staff can assist you in person, can't get any better than that! Don't buy online your first ever road bike. An LBS can get the perfectly fitting size for you and even perform basic bike fitting for free.

Also learn to gain confidence riding a road bike by placing your hands on the brake hoods most of the time initially. Learn how to operate the brakes and shift gear with hands on the brake hoods. DON'T use the other hand positions until you have gained enough confidence and balance with your hands on the brake hoods.

Another advantage of making your first purchase from LBS, the shop staff can further guide you into the basics. They can even allow you to test ride the bike so they can assist in making final tweaks / setup to the bike so you bring the bike home absolutely problem-free.

Expectations:
- A road bike will not make you significantly faster on the flats compared to a MTB.
- Will not significantly make pedaling easier.
- It could be a little faster and easier to pedal on climbs if the bike is at least 10 lbs lighter than your MTB. However I'm only speaking from personal experience as a very lightweight rider with a body weight of only 115 lbs. Someone twice my weight may not even get noticeably faster on a 10 lbs lighter bike. They might think it's a lot easier to pedal (it's going to be mostly placebo effect).

Ironically, what you're wearing while riding and your riding position will make bigger difference in speed and pedaling effort than the type of bike you're riding.
 
Drop bars are definitely something you have to get used to. I would suggest you ONLY buy a bike that has Shimano 105 parts on it. This will usually be on a higher quality bike. I suggest ALUMINUM bikes, Their weight is close to carbon fiber but without the danger of them breaking up over the time you are likely to own the bike if you are becoming an enthusiast or a commuter. Personally I have returned to steel but I know what to look for.
 
Drop bars are definitely something you have to get used to. I would suggest you ONLY buy a bike that has Shimano 105 parts on it. This will usually be on a higher quality bike. I suggest ALUMINUM bikes, Their weight is close to carbon fiber but without the danger of them breaking up over the time you are likely to own the bike if you are becoming an enthusiast or a commuter. Personally I have returned to steel but I know what to look for.

Yeah, I'm going modern steel someday. Unfortunately, MOST modern steel bikes have carbon forks. So ****ed up right?!

I definitely want steel all the way, NOT steel and plastic fork!:mad:

Not picky myself on drive train. I own the dirt-garbage end class of 9-speed shifter set. Sensah Ignite. "Worst" of them all and yet, my while bike is silent. Even quieter than bikes with 105's and Di2's. The only noise you'll hear on my bike is the tires and the wind rush noise. My chain is virtually dry but very clean so it should make a bit of noise but it doesn't. I ride a total of 100 miles each weekend and I never pay any attention to the drivetrain unless I get caught in rain which means I'll need to re-lube the chain. It's inexplicably reliable, and requires no maintenance at all, except for chain.
 
The Tommasini Fire X can be bought with a steel fork for a little extra. They are very nice bikes constructed of stainless steel.
 
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The Tommasini Fire X can be bought with a steel fork for a little extra. They are very nice bikes constructed of stainless steel.

I have steel fork on my aluminum bike. It's a cheap high-ten steel, not chromo and thick walled for disc brake use so it's quite heavy.

Saved my bike from any damage countless times in situations that would have easily turned carbon or even aluminum forks into scrap!
 
You lack training.

When you get tired of that crappy playlist, will feel like spaghetti.

I recommend you conquer ant hills first.
 
Hey there! It sounds like you're looking for some advice on training and race strategies. When it comes to road racing, having a solid training regimen is key. While playlists can be motivating, it's important to focus on building your endurance and strength. A great way to do this is by incorporating hill training into your routine. Conquering those ant hills will help improve your climbing abilities and overall performance. In addition to that, make sure to stick to a consistent training plan and incorporate intervals and tempo rides to challenge yourself. Stay dedicated and keep pushing your limits! Good luck with your road racing journey!