Physiology of Fixed



Status
Not open for further replies.
A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote:
: If the chain were at it tightest point, that would be a great technique. Doing that with the
: chain at it loosest point could possibly wreck a bearing or at least accentuate drive train wear
: on most bikes. Depends on the range between "tight" and "loose". On many bikes that is a
: significant range.

anyone else thinking of running biopace rings on their fixed?
--
david reuteler [email protected]
 
> A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote:
> : If the chain were at it tightest point, that would be a great technique. Doing that with the
> : chain at it loosest point could possibly wreck a bearing or at least accentuate drive train wear
> : on most bikes. Depends on the range between "tight" and "loose". On many bikes that is a
> : significant range.

David Reuteler wrote:
> anyone else thinking of running biopace rings on their fixed?

As Sheldon has pointed out more than once, the chain tension on a Biopace doesn't fluctuate any more
than any other system.

That fluctuation's due to inherent minor errors of roundness.

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971
 
A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...

[snip]

>> John wrote: I found this trick by accident. Ever store your bike on a hook? I put the rear wheel
>> on a hook, let the bike dangle and tigten the hub nuts with the weight of the bike pulling the
>> chain taught. It seems to always get the tension just about right.
>
> -snip-
>
> If the chain were at it tightest point, that would be a great technique. Doing that with the
> chain at it loosest point could possibly wreck a bearing or at least accentuate drive train wear
> on most bikes. Depends on the range between "tight" and "loose". On many bikes that is a
> significant range.

Dear Andrew,

Am I missing something?

If you hang a fixed-gear bike from the ceiling by its rear wheel with its rear axle nuts slightly
loose, shouldn't the weight of the bike pull the chain nicely taut? What will go wrong?

(I admit that the idea of hanging a fixie up like a piñata appeals to me in more ways than one, but
John's chain-tension trick seems practical, given a little attention to preventing any slight
cocking of the wheel.)

This is all theoretical for me, but I'm curious. Why would the chain ever be at any but its tightest
in this bondage-film situation?

Yours for lynch law,

Carl Fogel
 
Carl Fogel wrote:
> If you hang a fixed-gear bike from the ceiling by its rear wheel with its rear axle nuts slightly
> loose, shouldn't the weight of the bike pull the chain nicely taut? What will go wrong?

Let's assume (and this is normally a pretty good assumption) that the chainring is not perfectly
round or it is not perfectly centered on the bottom bracket spindle. If the crank is rotated such
that the chainring is centered aft of the spindle, it will take up a little less chain than at other
times. If the pinata trick is used in this alignment, your chain will end up too tight.

Put another way, the tension in a chain depends on the orientation of the cranks in most cases. Take
your fixie, put it in the air, and pedal. Watch the chain tighten/slacken as the crank rotates. If
you monitor the tension with your finger, keep the fingers out of the cog/chain interface!

Dave "avoiding semicolons today" dvt at psu dot edu
 
A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote:
: As Sheldon has pointed out more than once, the chain tension on a Biopace doesn't fluctuate any
: more than any other system.

oops .. my geometry skills failed me.
--
david reuteler [email protected]
 
Originally posted by Dvt
Carl Fogel wrote:
> If you hang a fixed-gear bike from the ceiling by its rear wheel with its rear axle nuts slightly
> loose, shouldn't the weight of the bike pull the chain nicely taut? What will go wrong?

Let's assume (and this is normally a pretty good assumption) that the chainring is not perfectly
round or it is not perfectly centered on the bottom bracket spindle. If the crank is rotated such
that the chainring is centered aft of the spindle, it will take up a little less chain than at other
times. If the pinata trick is used in this alignment, your chain will end up too tight.

Put another way, the tension in a chain depends on the orientation of the cranks in most cases. Take
your fixie, put it in the air, and pedal. Watch the chain tighten/slacken as the crank rotates. If
you monitor the tension with your finger, keep the fingers out of the cog/chain interface!

Dave "avoiding semicolons today" dvt at psu dot edu

Dear Dave,

I'm still puzzled.

Are average chain rings really so out of round,
so badly centered, or mounted on such flexible
frames that there's a significant fluctuating
difference in chain tension as your pedals
rise and fall?

And if so, won't any method of deciding where
to snug up the axle nuts be at best a hopeful
stab in the dark?

How much chain tension difference are we
talking about here? Are these fixed-gear
bikes so sensitive to chain tension that
they must be adjusted weekly as the chain
wears?

(Again, this is all purely theoretical for me. My
trusty steed's flailing chain is barely held in
check by a complicated spring-loaded device
apparently designed by Rube Goldberg. It's
so wildly erratic that several gears are required
at both ends to stop it from wandering off.)

Carl Fogel
 
>>>John wrote: I found this trick by accident. Ever store your bike on a hook? I put the rear wheel
>>>on a hook, let the bike dangle and tigten the hub nuts with the weight of the bike pulling the
>>>chain taught. It seems to always get the tension just about right.

> A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>>If the chain were at it tightest point, that would be a great technique. Doing that with the
>>chain at it loosest point could possibly wreck a bearing or at least accentuate drive train wear
>>on most bikes. Depends on the range between "tight" and "loose". On many bikes that is a
>>significant range.

Carl Fogel wrote:
> Am I missing something?
>
> If you hang a fixed-gear bike from the ceiling by its rear wheel with its rear axle nuts slightly
> loose, shouldn't the weight of the bike pull the chain nicely taut? What will go wrong?
-snip-

I thought I was clear. Let me try again.

Fixed-length chain runs tight and loose due to the errors in the cups, cones, hubshell, threads and
teeth all being not perfectly concentric in both the rear and front. Pedal or backpedal,

(Keeping one's fingers well away from teeth! see also: http://www.yellowjersey.org/chainchk.html)

and you'll notice the chain goes tight and slack throughout the cycle. Chain tension needs to be not
overly tight to avoid excessive wear.

So, if the gentleman hangs his bike and secures the wheel with the chain at its slackest point, it
will be way too tight at the tight spot.

I've seen really fast parts destruction from overly tight chain. Recent examples include a new
Campagnolo ring with almost no teeth left after a couple of weeks and cups gouged away in a similar
short time (not the same bikes). Both riders claimed to have pulled the chain as tight as possible
when installing the wheel.

Go ahead and hang it, no harm there, but do check the chain tension before you ride it.

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971
 
On Mon, 08 Dec 2003 09:44:46 +0000, Carl Fogel wrote:

> A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>
> [snip]
>
>>> John wrote: I found this trick by accident. Ever store your bike on a hook? I put the rear wheel
>>> on a hook, let the bike dangle and tigten the hub nuts with the weight of the bike pulling the
>>> chain taught. It seems to always get the tension just about right.
>>
>> -snip-
>>
>> If the chain were at it tightest point, that would be a great technique. Doing that with the
>> chain at it loosest point could possibly wreck a bearing or at least accentuate drive train wear
>> on most bikes. Depends on the range between "tight" and "loose". On many bikes that is a
>> significant range.
>
> Dear Andrew,
>
> Am I missing something?
>
> If you hang a fixed-gear bike from the ceiling by its rear wheel with its rear axle nuts slightly
> loose, shouldn't the weight of the bike pull the chain nicely taut? What will go wrong?

It is quite common for a chain on a fixed gear, or single-speed (or internal gear hub, for that
matter) to be tighter, or looser, depending on the pedal position. This is caused by out-of-round
sprockets, chainrings, or cranksets. It can sometimes be lessened by loosening and re-tightening the
chainring bolts, giving (maybe) a better position for the ring. In a derailleur bike you simply
would never see this because the derailleur maintains chain tension.

You have to adjust the chain so it is not too tight at the tightest point.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | A mathematician is a machine for turning coffee into theorems. _`\(,_ | -- Paul Erdos
(_)/ (_) |
 
David Reuteler <[email protected]> wrote:

> anyone else thinking of running biopace rings on their fixed?

Yes, me. I got the idea from Sheldon Brown. It seemed so nutty that I had to try it, and guess what,
I love it.

As others have noted, the chain tension variation is very small but not zero, because of the varying
angle the chain makes with the chainstay. This small variation is swamped by the variation caused by
various eccentricities of sprockets.

Since the two sprockets are of unequal size, there is a periodicity of the chain tightness and it is
much longer than one crank revolution. That's why (and this will be more grist for the mental
processes of Carl Fogel) that the position of the rear axle whould be set only after observation of
a number of crank revolutions.

If your bike can coast, you need to FIX it.

--
Ted Bennett Portland OR
 
A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote:

> I've seen really fast parts destruction from overly tight chain. Recent examples include a new
> Campagnolo ring with almost no teeth left after a couple of weeks and cups gouged away in a
> similar short time (not the same bikes). Both riders claimed to have pulled the chain as tight as
> possible when installing the wheel.

When I first put together a single speed, I went out for a ride at night. I kept hearing popping
noises, and had some chain derailment problems. On return, I discovered I had popped three teeth off
the freewheel cog (an old cheapie Suntour 5-speed with some cogs removed) due to excessive chain
tension at one point in the revolution. The missing teeth caused the derailments. With a better
grade of Suntour freewheel and less operator error, no subsequent problems.
 
On Mon, 08 Dec 2003 17:41:50 +0000, David Reuteler wrote:

> A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote:
> : As Sheldon has pointed out more than once, the chain tension on a Biopace doesn't fluctuate any
> : more than any other system.
>
> oops .. my geometry skills failed me.

I've even seen a very old bike with very elliptical chainring, using inch-pitch chain. Looked very
odd, but it worked.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | Enron's slogan: Respect, Communication, Integrity, and _`\(,_ | Excellence. (_)/ (_) |
 
Originally posted by Ted Bennett
David Reuteler <[email protected]> wrote:

> anyone else thinking of running biopace rings on their fixed?

Yes, me. I got the idea from Sheldon Brown. It seemed so nutty that I had to try it, and guess what,
I love it.

As others have noted, the chain tension variation is very small but not zero, because of the varying
angle the chain makes with the chainstay. This small variation is swamped by the variation caused by
various eccentricities of sprockets.

Since the two sprockets are of unequal size, there is a periodicity of the chain tightness and it is
much longer than one crank revolution. That's why (and this will be more grist for the mental
processes of Carl Fogel) that the position of the rear axle whould be set only after observation of
a number of crank revolutions.

If your bike can coast, you need to FIX it.

--
Ted Bennett Portland OR

Dear Ted,

You may be answering the question that I
just logged in to ask, but I'm not sure. I
think that your "periodicity" means how
often the tightest position of the front gear
coincides with the tighest position of the
rear gear.

Some browsing showed me that all these
fixed-gear fanatics agree that their chain
tension varies noticeably as they spin
their rear wheels by hand.

It could be something explained in
"Extraordinary Popular Delusions and
the Madness of Crowds," but I tend to
believe Sheldon Brown and Andrew
Muzi when they agree about basic
bicycle maintenance.

But what still bothers me is that everyone
keeps blaiming the imperfectly concentric
gears, bottom bracket, bearings, cones,
cups, hub, and axle. It's cumulative, or so
I'm told, and adds up to enough to affect
the chain tension noticeably.

So how come the back half of this wobbly
mess doesn't affect the wheel rim? You
know, that thing sticking out on the end
of some long spokes attached to the hub,
cones, bearings, and axles? The rim that
they true to the thickness of a couple of
sheets of paper?

Are the gears really that badly mounted
and poorly machined?

I'm looking at a nice new 53-tooth Shimano
chain-ring. It looks pretty well machined me.
Maybe there are deliberate irregularities
machined into it to help shifting, but it
doesn't look too sloppy to me.

I'm hoping that some of the fixed-gear folk
who own bike shops and aren't mechanical
klutzes like me will take a few moments, slip
their chains off, and check the irregularity of
their front and rear gears. Wrap a piece of
soft wire around the frame and pretend to
true a small wheel.

With no chain mounted, how much slop is
there in those gear teeth? Any variation
should be at its worst at the tips of the teeth,
reflecting all accumulated slop of bearings and
mountings and so forth.

If there's enough slop in the observed path
of the gear teeth to account for the tightening
and loosening of the chain, then I'll be convinced
that--

Well, that I've got another reason to like
derailleurs.

But if the observed slop is a lot less than
everyone seems to expect, then I'm going
to ask whether the real culprit is the
chain, which no one mentions as a
suspect, but which has far more moving
parts than the rest of the drive train put
together and which engages individual
teeth in ways that are not well addressed
by "imperfectly round."

I'd do the testing myself, except that
a) I have no fixie and b) none of you
seem dumb enough to believe figures
from someone who measures a few times,
cuts, cuts a little more, and then goes
back to the lumber yard to buy another
board.

Are wobbly gear teeth what really causes
the chain to tighten and slacken? If so,
Ted's "periodicity" between two gears will
be fairly tricky, but it shouldn't coincide with
the length of the chain.

Or is the variation really due to the the chain
and the way that it engages the individual gear
teeth? If so, the "periodicity" might be a fairly
regular pattern corresponding to chain length.

This isn't quite as good as a front-wheel
speed-slapping contest, but I do hope to
hear from fixed-gear riders, boasting about
how much or how little their gears wobble.

Of course, there may be a thread or page
somewhere that already lists the average
out-of-roundness of sample gears, but that
would be almost as nice.

Carl Fogel
 
"carlfogel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ted Bennett wrote:
> > David Reuteler <[email protected]> wrote:
> > > anyone else thinking of running biopace rings on their fixed?
> > Yes, me. I got the idea from Sheldon Brown. It seemed so nutty that I had to try it, and guess
> > what, I love it. As others have noted, the chain tension variation is very small but
not
> > zero, because of the varying angle the chain makes with the chainstay. This small variation is
> > swamped by the variation caused by various eccentricities of sprockets. Since the two
> > sprockets are of unequal size, there is a periodicity of the chain tightness and it is much
> > longer than one crank revolution. That's why (and this will be more grist for the mental
> > processes of
Carl
> > Fogel) that the position of the rear axle whould be set only after observation of a number of
> > crank revolutions. If your bike can coast, you need to FIX it.
> > --
> > Ted Bennett Portland OR
>
>
>
> Dear Ted,
>
> You may be answering the question that I just logged in to ask, but I'm not sure. I think that
> your "periodicity" means how often the tightest position of the front gear coincides with the
> tighest position of the rear gear.
>
> Some browsing showed me that all these fixed-gear fanatics agree that their chain tension varies
> noticeably as they spin their rear wheels by hand.
>
> It could be something explained in "Extraordinary Popular Delusions and the Madness of Crowds,"
> but I tend to believe Sheldon Brown and Andrew Muzi when they agree about basic bicycle
> maintenance.
>
> But what still bothers me is that everyone keeps blaiming the imperfectly concentric gears, bottom
> bracket, bearings, cones, cups, hub, and axle. It's cumulative, or so I'm told, and adds up to
> enough to affect the chain tension noticeably.
>
> So how come the back half of this wobbly mess doesn't affect the wheel rim? You know, that thing
> sticking out on the end of some long spokes attached to the hub, cones, bearings, and axles? The
> rim that they true to the thickness of a couple of sheets of paper?
>
> Are the gears really that badly mounted and poorly machined?
>
> I'm looking at a nice new 53-tooth Shimano chain-ring. It looks pretty well machined me. Maybe
> there are deliberate irregularities machined into it to help shifting, but it doesn't look too
> sloppy to me.
>
> I'm hoping that some of the fixed-gear folk who own bike shops and aren't mechanical klutzes like
> me will take a few moments, slip their chains off, and check the irregularity of their front and
> rear gears. Wrap a piece of soft wire around the frame and pretend to true a small wheel.
>
> With no chain mounted, how much slop is there in those gear teeth? Any variation should be at
> its worst at the tips of the teeth, reflecting all accumulated slop of bearings and mountings
> and so forth.
>
> If there's enough slop in the observed path of the gear teeth to account for the tightening and
> loosening of the chain, then I'll be convinced that--
>
> Well, that I've got another reason to like derailleurs.
>
> But if the observed slop is a lot less than everyone seems to expect, then I'm going to ask
> whether the real culprit is the chain, which no one mentions as a suspect, but which has far more
> moving parts than the rest of the drive train put together and which engages individual teeth in
> ways that are not well addressed by "imperfectly round."
>
> I'd do the testing myself, except that
> a) I have no fixie and b) none of you seem dumb enough to believe figures from someone who
> measures a few times, cuts, cuts a little more, and then goes back to the lumber yard to buy
> another board.
>
> Are wobbly gear teeth what really causes the chain to tighten and slacken? If so, Ted's
> "periodicity" between two gears will be fairly tricky, but it shouldn't coincide with the length
> of the chain.
>
> Or is the variation really due to the the chain and the way that it engages the individual gear
> teeth? If so, the "periodicity" might be a fairly regular pattern corresponding to chain length.
>
> This isn't quite as good as a front-wheel speed-slapping contest, but I do hope to hear from
> fixed-gear riders, boasting about how much or how little their gears wobble.
>
> Of course, there may be a thread or page somewhere that already lists the average out-of-roundness
> of sample gears, but that would be almost as nice.
>
> Carl Fogel
>

Carl, you think way too much.

Avoid habit forming substances.

Ed Chait
 
> Again, this is all purely theoretical for me. My trusty steed's flailing chain is barely held in
> check by a complicated spring-loaded device apparently designed by Rube Goldberg. It's so wildly
> erratic that several gears are required at both ends to stop it from wandering off.)
>
> Carl Fogel
>

Carl,

That sounds bad. I'd get that fixed !

;-)

Matt Cahill
 
carlfogel <[email protected]> wrote:
: Well, that I've got another reason to like derailleurs.

jeez, carl, there's no point in overreacting. in the over 7 years i've owned my fixed after setting
the chain tension (i do it by wedging a rag between the seat-tube and rear wheel) bolting on the
rear wheel and spinning the wheel to check for binding .. i have never, not even once, had to redo
my work. maybe my chainrings are bolted on totally uniformly, were round to begin with and i'm
really lucky but somehow i doubt it. it's not a big deal just something to double-check.
--
david reuteler [email protected]
 
carlfogel wrote:
> Are average chain rings really so out of round, so badly centered, or mounted on such flexible
> frames that there's a significant fluctuating difference in chain tension as your pedals rise
> and fall?

There is a difference in tension. Is it significant? That depends on the degree of assymetry in
your cogs.

> And if so, won't any method of deciding where to snug up the axle nuts be at best a hopeful stab
> in the dark?

I see you haven't yet probed all of the depths of Sheldon's site. Permit me to direct your inquiry
to http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html, scroll down about halfway until you see the heading
Chain Tension.

> How much chain tension difference are we talking about here? Are these fixed-gear bikes so
> sensitive to chain tension that they must be adjusted weekly as the chain wears?

If your cogs are wildly off-center, you might be in danger of losing a chain at its loosest point. I
haven't seen it get that bad. The danger, as Muzi pointed out, is that one inserts the wheel with
the cogs in the wrong orientation and the chain ends up too tight in spots. That extra tension can
cause rapid wear in the bearings that are overtensioned
(i.e. bottom bracket).

So unless things are waaaayyy out of whack, a chain that increases in length will not be a problem.

Dave dvt at psu dot edu
 
carlfogel wrote:
> Some browsing showed me that all these fixed-gear fanatics agree that their chain tension varies
> noticeably as they spin their rear wheels by hand.

> Are the gears really that badly mounted and poorly machined?

I tried to say this in another post, but I'll attempt to restate it to clarify. Ask yourself this
question: Who cares if my chain tension varies?

My answer: as long as the chain is not at risk of falling off the sprockets due to looseness, and
the bearings are not binding due to tightness, I don't care.

Dave dvt at psu dot edu
 
"David Reuteler" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> carlfogel <[email protected]> wrote:
> : Well, that I've got another reason to like derailleurs.
>
> jeez, carl, there's no point in overreacting. in the over 7 years i've owned my fixed after
> setting the chain tension (i do it by wedging a rag between the seat-tube and rear wheel) bolting
> on the rear wheel and spinning the wheel to check for binding .. i have never, not even once, had
> to redo my work. maybe my chainrings are bolted on totally uniformly, were round to begin with and
> i'm really lucky but somehow i doubt it. it's not a big deal just something to double-check.

My experience has been identical. Before a fixed-gear ride I check the droop on the top chain run,
if it's too loose I just loosen the QR, pull the wheel back (centering between chainstays), tighten
QR, then spin the cranks to test for too tight (binding). Too tight is pretty obvious (like wheel
cones). Sheldon Brown has a procedure for centering chainrings on his fixed-gear site-section.
 
Ted Bennett <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> David Reuteler <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
> > anyone else thinking of running biopace rings on their fixed?
>
>
> Yes, me. I got the idea from Sheldon Brown. It seemed so nutty that I had to try it, and guess
> what, I love it.
>
> As others have noted, the chain tension variation is very small but not zero, because of the
> varying angle the chain makes with the chainstay. This small variation is swamped by the variation
> caused by various eccentricities of sprockets.
>
> Since the two sprockets are of unequal size, there is a periodicity of the chain tightness and it
> is much longer than one crank revolution. That's why (and this will be more grist for the mental
> processes of Carl Fogel) that the position of the rear axle whould be set only after observation
> of a number of crank revolutions.
>
> If your bike can coast, you need to FIX it.

Dear Ted,

Curiously, when I replied to you through cycling forums as carlfogel, some news servers indexed my
post to the original post, not to your post. (This reply through google groups should attach
normally to your post.)

Carl Fogel
 
dvt <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Carl Fogel wrote:
> > If you hang a fixed-gear bike from the ceiling by its rear wheel with its rear axle nuts
> > slightly loose, shouldn't the weight of the bike pull the chain nicely taut? What will go wrong?
>
> Let's assume (and this is normally a pretty good assumption) that the chainring is not perfectly
> round or it is not perfectly centered on the bottom bracket spindle. If the crank is rotated such
> that the chainring is centered aft of the spindle, it will take up a little less chain than at
> other times. If the pinata trick is used in this alignment, your chain will end up too tight.
>
> Put another way, the tension in a chain depends on the orientation of the cranks in most cases.
> Take your fixie, put it in the air, and pedal. Watch the chain tighten/slacken as the crank
> rotates. If you monitor the tension with your finger, keep the fingers out of the cog/chain
> interface!
>
> Dave "avoiding semicolons today" dvt at psu dot edu

Dear Dave,

When I replied to this post through cycling forums as carlfogel, some news servers choked and
attached my post to the original post. The same thing happened when I replied to your evil twin,
David Reutler, just a post or two away in this same thread. This post through google groups should
attach normally.

Carl Fogel
 
Status
Not open for further replies.