Preventing flats



Daniel Crispin wrote:
> Exactly what I am planing to do ;)
>
> I am also thinking about changing to the other type of valve... can't
> remember the name... from what I ear it doesn't leak
> air like a regular valve do.
>


That'd probably be a Presta valve. Yes they seem to be prefferred. However I
have a Schraeder adaptor on my Prestas. The only reason for that is that my
CO2 pump seems to fit better over a Schraeder than a Presta and I lose less
air when filling. I don't think whatever valve leaks will be an issue, for
me anyway. I always pump my tires before every ride because I want to know
exactly what my air pressure is and any valve will keep air long enough for
that. I'd say whatever kind of valve you use will be up to what kind of
pumps you have available and how they fit.

--
Perre

You have to be smarter than a robot to reply.
 
Hum... you are right, I did not think about that. Ok, a backup repair kit
as well then to use in extreme emergencies ;)


"Jeff Starr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 12 Jul 2004 20:05:23 -0400, "Daniel Crispin"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Well I think patches are a pain... I will start carring a spare tube
> >instead, they only cost 5$ anyhow so it's not really expensive.
> >
> >As for the tires, I went to my LBS and he completelly refused to sell me

Mr
> >Tuffy (or what ever it is called) ;) He said that
> >after a while the corners start to lift and puncture the tube. He

suggested
> >I use better tires instead. Showed me one made by
> >specialized that is kevlar belted and has a central band much thicker

than
> >the rest of the tire, so there is more space between the body of the tire
> >and the road. Only 33$ per tire. I will have both tire replaced this
> >Thursday.
> >
> >My tires are 700 but I am not sure of the with... I think it's 32 but I
> >could be wrong ... it's an Hybrid with standard size hybrid
> >tires (if there is such a thing).
> >
> >I think the new tires can also take higher pressure (100 pounds compared

to
> >85 pounds for my current tires)... that should make
> >for a smoother ride.
> >
> >

>
> Hi, a spare tube is a good idea, but not "instead" of a patch kit. You
> could have more than one flat, or as recently happened to me. My brand
> new spare tube had a hole in it. I had to patch the tube, before I
> could use it.
>
> Life is Good!
> Jeff
 
Daniel Crispin wrote:
> Hum... you are right, I did not think about that. Ok, a backup
> repair kit as well then to use in extreme emergencies ;)


Daniel, would you mind placing your comments BELOW the text to which you're
replying?

Bill "TY...TYVM" S.
 
On Mon, 12 Jul 2004 20:05:23 -0400, Daniel Crispin wrote:

> Showed me one made by specialized that is kevlar belted
> and has a central band much thicker than the rest of the tire, so there is
> more space between the body of the tire and the road. Only 33$ per tire.
> I will have both tire replaced this Thursday.


Only $33 per tire? There's plenty of various sturdy 700X30ish tires on the
market, often on sale, for 10-15 bucks. I'm a tightwad, but $33 for a
"commuting" tire seems outrageous, I'd understand a premium for a
high-falutin' racing rubber though.

BTW, I've not carried a spare tube in over ten years, just a patch kit and
some duct tape and one tire lever. The only tubes you really can't patch
are when you get failure around the valve--so file those rim holes smooth.
:D.........Knock on wood :) I find patching faster than replacing a tube
since I just leave the wheel on the bike and pull out the few inches of
tube that are affected. I rode a Sturmey Archer Raleigh and a Nexus7 for
many years which explains my disdain for wheel removal, even though I've
got qt hubs now. LOL
 
On Tue, 13 Jul 2004 07:50:41 +0000, Per Elmsäter wrote:

> I'd say whatever kind of valve you use will be up to
> what kind of pumps you have available and how they fit.



that's good advice, though I do find presta easier to inflate, you can
always carry a little brass adapter if you need to use a non presta pump.

Air loss is usually due to the porosity of the tube itself and not the
valve--usually ;)