Re: My changing rear wheel video

[Gemma_k]

"Vincent Patrick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Thanks for that. The dodgy host was as you said, a bit dodgy, and it
seemed
> to discourage downloading the video file itself. Unfortunately, on my
> viewer the video went extremely fast, so it appeared something like a
> conjuring act. Wheel-off, wheel-on, bam!
>
> Does the same technique work after you lie the bike down as you change a
> tyre, or otherwise work on the wheel? The chain position is rarely where
I
> want it at that stage, so a pair of gloves may still be the best approach
> for me.

It's supposed to be wheel off, wheel on, BAM!
Yes it works after lying the bike down - but you've got to have the bike
upright when you actually put the wheel back on, because the chain has to
'hang' so you can get the axle inbetween the top and bottom runs of the
chain. If the chain has come off the rear derailleur it is very difficult.
It is not hard to change to the small cog after you've stopped, and change
it back to a more reasonable gear after the wheel change, if it saves you
getting greasy!
(If you watch a pro racer rear wheel change the rider usually changes to the
small cog as the mechanic comes running up, and releases the quick release
for the brakes themselves. After the change, the mechanic has to give the
rider a big push while the rider changes gears frantically hunting for an
easier gear to get going again)
Often, if you lie the bike down on its side the chain might fall off the
front chainring - which is a pain. The trick to keeping your bike tidy, as
well as making the saddle pack more accessible is to tip the bike forward,
so it is like a tripod, resting on two brake levers (road bike) or bar ends
(MTB) and the front wheel on the ground, and resting the left rear dropout
against a fence, pole or tree. That way everything stays where it's
supposed to go.
Gemm

 

[Gags]

"Gemma_k" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Vincent Patrick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > Thanks for that. The dodgy host was as you said, a bit dodgy, and it
> seemed
> > to discourage downloading the video file itself. Unfortunately, on my
> > viewer the video went extremely fast, so it appeared something like a
> > conjuring act. Wheel-off, wheel-on, bam!
> >
> > Does the same technique work after you lie the bike down as you change a
> > tyre, or otherwise work on the wheel? The chain position is rarely
where
> I
> > want it at that stage, so a pair of gloves may still be the best
approach
> > for me.
>
> It's supposed to be wheel off, wheel on, BAM!
> Yes it works after lying the bike down - but you've got to have the bike
> upright when you actually put the wheel back on, because the chain has to
> 'hang' so you can get the axle inbetween the top and bottom runs of the
> chain. If the chain has come off the rear derailleur it is very
difficult.
> It is not hard to change to the small cog after you've stopped, and change
> it back to a more reasonable gear after the wheel change, if it saves you
> getting greasy!
> (If you watch a pro racer rear wheel change the rider usually changes to
the
> small cog as the mechanic comes running up, and releases the quick release
> for the brakes themselves. After the change, the mechanic has to give the
> rider a big push while the rider changes gears frantically hunting for an
> easier gear to get going again)
> Often, if you lie the bike down on its side the chain might fall off the
> front chainring - which is a pain. The trick to keeping your bike tidy,
as
> well as making the saddle pack more accessible is to tip the bike forward,
> so it is like a tripod, resting on two brake levers (road bike) or bar
ends
> (MTB) and the front wheel on the ground, and resting the left rear dropout
> against a fence, pole or tree. That way everything stays where it's
> supposed to go.
> Gemm
>

The last couple of rear flats that I have had I managed to find a tree with
a fork in it that I wedged the seat into once I had the rear wheel off. I
always change down into the second to bottom cog and have done so ever since
having a frame with a lug mounted to the RH seat stay for hooking the chain
on when the wheel was out. I haven't checked out your video yet......I
usually grab the body of the RD to guide the jockey wheels on or off the
chain and I have a small piece of rag in my saddle bag that I use for this
task.

The most handy thing in my puncture repair kit is an old dentist's tool that
has been cut in half and has the tip ground to a point. I use this to poke
offending pieces of glass out of the tyre before I put the replacement tube
back in (I got sick of trying to do this with a blunt house key or a stick).

Gags