rear hub for pacific 4500
- Thread starter garegin
- Start date
Probably your best bet is to take your whole rear wheel to a bike shop and let them find a replacement for you. Expect to pay in the $50.00 to $60.00 range.garegin said:my rear hub broke in the bike and i want to know which one to purchase. is there spec requirments or just any one will do?
thanks
IMO, it is NOT particularly difficult to put a new hub on a wheel ... basically, you will unlace the old wheel & relace the rim onto a new hub ... tension & true.garegin said:
Everyone who builds wheels had a first wheel ...
There are online guides.
Unlace your rim from the bad hub ... and (yes!), relace it on the existing hub ... if you can do that, then you can give more serious consideration to getting a new hub. If that exercise creates exceptional hardship, then you'll either have to have someone else do it OR buy a new wheel (as suggested by Retro Grouch) because a "new" wheel will probably cost less than a semi-custom build by a shop -- i.e., new hub on your existing wheel == $30-$40 (or, more) + wheel build == $25-$40 (or, more!).
BUT, what do you actually mean when you said that the rear hub broke?
Post a picture & a more specific description of the problem.
the hub is making crazy noises. i went to the shop and they told me that its def. the hub. im a self-professed bike noob so i have to beleive them. when i turn the wheel the noise comes from the hub part. \
i saw some hubs for 10 bucks and just wanna know the specs that i should be aware of
i saw some hubs for 10 bucks and just wanna know the specs that i should be aware of
Get a wheel. Now that Niagara no longer sells single spokes, the cost of the spokes will kill you.
Unless you can service the hub. Is it a fw or cassette?
Unless you can service the hub. Is it a fw or cassette?
Okay, "crazy noises" is still too vague a description ...garegin said:
Regardless, I hate shops which aren't more specific about the probable problem ...
Do you hear the noises when the wheel is freewheeling (spinning while the chain is static) OR when the chain is moving the wheel?
Presuming the axle, itself, isn't broken (sometimes, the BEST axle can shear), regreasing the bearings may be all that is necessary. Replacing an axle isn't a big deal. Regreasing and/or replacing the bearings isn't a big deal.
Bearings are generally about 10¢ each (or, less) ... 9 per side ...
Grease is available from an AUTOMOTIVE STORE (get some WHITE LITHIUM) or many stores with Automotive sections (e.g., WalMart).
If you need a new axle (this will be very evident if you take the wheel out of the frame and the axle can be removed WITHOUT tools!), sometimes it's cheaper to cannibalize another hub for the parts -- sometime, not.
You will want at least ONE cone wrench ... often, TWO (it depend on the brand) with some hubs (e.g., older Campagnolo) ... plus, some "regular" household tools (e.g., adjustable wrench).
If you are actually replacing the one hub with another rather than cannibalizing a hub for parts, then you want the "new" hub to have the same number of spoke holes ... you want it to use either a freewheel or be a freehub design ... and, the WIDTH between the LOCK NUTS should be the same (e.g., 135mm -- the space between the frame's rear dropouts).
Depending on your weight, you may want to consider a SOLID AXLE + nuts.
TOOLS can be expensive or inexpensive ... paying more doesn't always yield better quality (e.g., IMO, some PARK TOOL "tools" are cast from inferior metal whereas some comparable-but-less-expensive brand "tools" are CroMo steel).
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