Shifting bar-ends 3 clicks - how fast?

[bubelrocks]

Hi all, this is my first post in this forum. I've been following discussions for a few weeks, greatly enjoying all the information. Thank you.

I need to know how quickly and easily people with bar-end (barcon) shifters can shift 3 clicks on the rear cog while changing to the granny ring on the front. The bike I want to buy has STI on it so I can't test ride it with bar-ends before ordering them. I'd like to get bar-ends as I like the low maintenance & simplicity & would like to go touring if my health & fitness improves.

I need the 3 click shift for particular reasons - I'm returning to cycling after a few years break with poor health - I have mild chronic fatigue, and need some verrry low gears (hence an ultra-small granny) to keep me going up a hill (lots of big ones where I live - Daylesford, country Victoria in Australia), as a heart-rate that might get most people fit will knock me out quickly at the moment. In short, I need to spin, spin, spin! I'm looking at a 20/36/46 chainring setup with 11-34 on the rear. So when shifting from the lowest gear on the middle ring to the next logical gear down on the granny, it's 3 clicks. With bar-ends is that just 3 clicks in a second or can you learn to do it well in friction mode, or is it a hassle & should I keep STI or go to a 20/32/44 setup, or something else????

Would greatly appreciate any thoughts experienced bar-end shifters have on this, as I know a successful low-gear setup is going to greatly enhance my ability to get out there & enjoy cycling again.

 

[gclark8]

My flat bar shifter, Shimano 440s, will shift down up to 4 gears, great for the 1-2 tooth clusters, and the triple (30).

 

[EmmCeeBee]

I know what you're asking, but I can't quantify it. All I can say is, I shift 2 or 3 gears all the time with barcons, it's a sweet subconscious move that I don't even realize till after I do it.

The tough part is, though, that downshifting into granny gear, upshifting 2 or 3 sprockets, maintaining forward momentum and balance all while going uphill.... all too often, something goes wrong. Like the chain falling off the chainrings. Or realizing that the break in cadence means I need one more gear to maintain momentum.

Your setup, with 46/36/20, has a big drop from middle to granny, so you might have to concentrate on the front shift to avoid chain drop. Pay attention to the amount of chain slack (especially going into small gears, front and rear); and the chainline (try to choose which gear puts a zero angle on the chain before you shift into granny).

I'm a forever-barcons guy, for reliability, simplicity, and ease of access. I haven't used STIs, so I can't say how they'd do this shift. I've only used barcons in friction mode a couple of times, not out of necessity, but after a few days I'd think you can tune your shifts like second nature. In index mode, I never worry about rear shifting, even for 3 or more gears. Especially up-shifting, when you can just flick the barcon with one finger.

There's a new wrinkle.... Shimano (and others?) now have "reverse shift" derailleurs. Instead of pulling the cable to downshift, they pull the cable to upshift. Haven't tried them, but for the case we're talking about here, I think shifting would be more difficult. Check which type of derailleur your new bike would have.

-- Mark

 

[gclark8]

There's a new wrinkle.... Shimano (and others?) now have "reverse shift" derailleurs. Instead of pulling the cable to downshift, they pull the cable to upshift. Haven't tried them, but for the case we're talking about here, I think shifting would be more difficult

"Rapid Rise", I had one on my Merida, very confusing if your other bike goes the other way. I changed my RR for a conventional Alivio, now both bikes road and mtb shift the same.

Its great to just pull the both forefingers for the Grany on the front and up 1 or 2 on the back, not loosing cadence. The other way, both thums, when hitting the downhills, for the big ring and up to 4 cogs on the back.

 

[bubelrocks]

Thanks very much guys, that's really useful info. Not being a racer, the odd slight loss of cadence isn't a worry. If 3 clicks can easily become a "sweet subconscious move" & I can get a suitable derailleur, I think I'll go for the barcons & the wide ratio rings. Many thanks.

 

[RcNMoon]

I have also been using bar-ends forever, you shouldn't have too much of a problem with the proper setup.