The Antler Bar



coolworx

New Member
Jun 18, 2003
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Let me first preface this post with this:

Every assertion I make only applies to me.
I have no desire to get into the ol' handlebar debate, but am only sharing what works for me.
If someone else takes benefit from my tinkering, all the better.

I've tried flat bars, I've tried drop bars. I've put aero's on both.
I've also tried the mustache bar.

But the "Antler Bar" is the only bar that has solved all my problems.
No more numb pinkies, no more "hook" thumbs, no more wrist pain, no more having my HANDS dictate how long I can ride.

The secret of the bar is "angles".
Instead of having a single bar (curved in whatever way ya like) which always forces the hand to "grasp" it, the A.B. creates 'near to right' angles in which the padded parts of the hand "rest". The fingers are free, and the all important Ulnar and Median nerves are not put under pressure.

The other thing the A.B. provides is 3 distinct handpositions (and a 4th "cruiser" position) all of which have variations on a theme.

Drop bars give you 2 distinct positions.. the drops, and the hoods. Riding on the tops is still using the same "pressure points" as is the drops (although it does turn the wrists), so only the hoods can provide a REAL change of pace - and no position on drops OR flats free the thumb for a relief!

So here's an overall picture (with all my dashboard accessories):
http://img159.imageshack.us/img159/1272/dashboard3st.jpg


And here are the handpositions:

#1 - the primary position, and also the fastest. It's analogous to riding the hoods, but is a narrower position and thus more aerodynamic. It's also pretty damn comfy since most of the weight is on the heel of the hand
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/4152/pos16wq.jpg


#2 - This position allows the heel of the hand to get some much needed rest. most of the weight is on the thumb "pad" and a bit across the calluses of the upper hand just b4 the fingers.
The wrist in this pic is only turned to take the photograph. In practice, it's much more straight.
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/4013/pos37vo.jpg


#3 - The Flying Thumb! This is a great position for long slogs up 2 mile 8% grades. It gives you great control at those crawling speeds, and that opposable digit a much needed rest!
http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/6001/freethumb4ky.jpg


#4 - The Beach Cruiser. This position is very different then the previous in that you actually "grasp" the bar. Because of it's distance from the brake levers, this is only a resting position, or perhaps a cruising thru town at 10mph position. It puts the rider in a very upright stance; great for trying to spy out that ice cream stand that was supposed to be along this route....
http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/8612/pos43gi.jpg

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coolworx said:
The other thing the A.B. provides is 3 distinct handpositions (and a 4th "cruiser" position) all of which have variations on a theme.


I'd like to expand on this point.

Most drop bar users will claim 5 handpositions. I think they only have 2.

Yes, they have different wrist angles, and body positions, but except for the hoods (which BTW, they ALWAYS seem to be using) the hand is engaging a single bar by grasping it.

That's fine when your going balls2wall in a race - when most of your weight is on your hammerin' quads.
But loaded touring needs a finer touch.

I'm not trying to actually convert folks to my "personally perfect" solution, but rather to prod them to think outside the box.

Ohh, and to appreciate right angles, instead of single (curvy or not) bars.