SNIP
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This bike is a vintage one, so I am trying to keep it mostly period (at
least for high-visibility items). Plus I like the shiny sliver finish
never marred by a brake shoe!
OK ok I understand. (Actually I buy the least expensive version of the
contemporary Mavic, which is all silver).
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I had some 32 hole Victory Crono's once that I pulled about 10 eyelets
out of on a big hill stomp once. I also have some Record Strada's that
have been to hell and back with no problems. I also had some GL280's
that seemed to handle more than I could dish out. But I have never used
any modern tubular rims. I suppose they are better as a whole, but
again, I need period!
I have some 280 and 330 NOS in my bag of tricks. They are so light.
SNIP
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The Synthesis is allegedly a super strong rim. With 36 double eyelets
and 430 grams each I should hope they are strong! 70's-80's I believe.
That sounds pretty substantial to me. I think the GP4 was 400.
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While vinatge, this is to be a daily rider, so I am open to all spoke
suggestions, and other practical things like sealed bb, etc are
probably going to be used. So should I go with 14 ga straight, or
butted?
I've built both ways. I've built probably 2 dozen pairs of wheels in my
life. My biggest problem always seems to be fatigue. Even if you do
all the "right things" with avoiding spoke windup, "stress-relieving,"
spoke alignment etc, it seems there are always new problems to crop up.
Not every wheelset--but from time to time.
Without a doubt, the 14 ga straights are easier to true and less apt to
go pretzel when a spoke breaks. Yet the theory tends to be behind the
14/15. I've even built a wheel with different gages left and right on
a rear wheel (my current one is 15/16 left and 14/15 right. It seems to
balance the spoke stress. Next time I'll make the right side straight
gage so that all the nipples are the same!). I think 15/16 is probably
too light for a rim that heavy. This isn't from any calcs--just from
experience of what seems reasonable.
14 gage straight are more available.
I've always fatigued at the elbow or at a nick somewhere, I've never
failed at the nipple end of the spoke. It seems to me that looking over
the problem wheels, these elbow failures are often possibly caused when
the spoke touches the flange as well as the hole. In other words only
the outside spokes. There must be a big bending moment developing in
that span due to the cross at midlength or something. There must be a
way to defet this problem, and on most of my wheels it hasn't happened.
) That's what my last problem wheel exhibited. I can't remember for
sure if I've fatigued inside spokes as well. Probably.
The other thing I've fatigued are the rims in way of the holes--on
non-eyelet rims. But yours are full eyelet so no problem hopefully.
