Sram S7 & Claud Butler Urban 400 frame compatibility

[al77]

Hello, I've picked up a Sram S7 700C wheel (coaster brake model) & am
wondering if it is compatible with a Claud Butler Urban 400 hybrid
frame I have. Can anyone help?

Two potential problems I see are:

1- the hub is not as wide as the frame & i'm not sure if using extra
spacers or bolts will affect the way the hub shifts. In the S7 manual
it says not to put any bolts on the hub side of the dropout, though I'm
not sure why. The frame is a few mm wider than the hub - I'll try to
measure accurately later..

2- the cable routing on the frame goes up the seat stay rather than the
chain stay. I don't know if this will make a difference. Also I don't
know if the cable outer that runs between the shifter & clickbox can be
cut to go through the cable guides on the seat stay & top tube. Or
should it not be cut?

Any help would be appreciated, thanks Alan

 

[al77]

>From these pics of someones S7 setup it looks like you shouldn't break
the outer of the shift cable...
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?p=872903#post872903
Alan
al77 wrote:
> Hello, I've picked up a Sram S7 700C wheel (coaster brake model) & am
> wondering if it is compatible with a Claud Butler Urban 400 hybrid
> frame I have. Can anyone help?
>
> Two potential problems I see are:
>
> 1- the hub is not as wide as the frame & i'm not sure if using extra
> spacers or bolts will affect the way the hub shifts. In the S7 manual
> it says not to put any bolts on the hub side of the dropout, though I'm
> not sure why. The frame is a few mm wider than the hub - I'll try to
> measure accurately later..
>
> 2- the cable routing on the frame goes up the seat stay rather than the
> chain stay. I don't know if this will make a difference. Also I don't
> know if the cable outer that runs between the shifter & clickbox can be
> cut to go through the cable guides on the seat stay & top tube. Or
> should it not be cut?
>
> Any help would be appreciated, thanks Alan

 

[al77]

The S7 coaster hub is 130mm, The Urban 400 frame seems to be more like
135mm. I know normally I could add nuts/washers/spacers to help the
hub fit the frame, but the SRAM S7 manual specifically states that you
shouldn't add anything to the hub/sprocket side of the dropout.
Presumably this must affect the clickbox's ability to shift. Has
anyone any experience of this? I could add a nut to the other side of
the hub, but then the wheel wouldn't be centred causing probs with
mudguard/brake fitting. Doh!

Also I haven't been able to try this out for myself yet as the axle
takes slightly bigger axle nuts than normal solid mtb axles do..
Anyone know where to obtain these? SRAM part no. 65 0516 003 100 -
Axle nut FG 10,5 - I assume that means 10.5mm if the normal ones are
10mm?

thanks to anyone who can help!

al77 wrote:
> >From these pics of someones S7 setup it looks like you shouldn't break
> the outer of the shift cable...
> http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?p=872903#post872903
> Alan
> al77 wrote:
> > Hello, I've picked up a Sram S7 700C wheel (coaster brake model) & am
> > wondering if it is compatible with a Claud Butler Urban 400 hybrid
> > frame I have. Can anyone help?
> >
> > Two potential problems I see are:
> >
> > 1- the hub is not as wide as the frame & i'm not sure if using extra
> > spacers or bolts will affect the way the hub shifts. In the S7 manual
> > it says not to put any bolts on the hub side of the dropout, though I'm
> > not sure why. The frame is a few mm wider than the hub - I'll try to
> > measure accurately later..
> >
> > 2- the cable routing on the frame goes up the seat stay rather than the
> > chain stay. I don't know if this will make a difference. Also I don't
> > know if the cable outer that runs between the shifter & clickbox can be
> > cut to go through the cable guides on the seat stay & top tube. Or
> > should it not be cut?
> >
> > Any help would be appreciated, thanks Alan

 

[bookieb]

al77 wrote:

> The S7 coaster hub is 130mm, The Urban 400 frame seems to be more like
> 135mm.
<snip>
> I could add a nut to the other side of
> the hub, but then the wheel wouldn't be centred causing probs with
> mudguard/brake fitting. Doh!
>

<cowboy>

Yeah, but it's only 5mm.

On a steel frame, I'd just throw it in, tighten it up and give it a go.

Chances are that both sides will come in a little, and the wheel will
still be centred, or as close as makes no difference.

The conventional wisdom is that Al frames, such as yours, are more
prone to taking offense to this kind of treatment (i.e. cracking), so
I'd sling 2 or 3 mm of a locknut or a washer on the non-drive side, and
give it a go. The wheel will only be out of dish by a couple of mils.

</cowboy>

The correct way is to respace the axle to 135mm, making the changes on
the on the non-drive side, then re-dish the wheel (or have it redished
at bike shop if you're not happy to do it yourself).

YMMV,

bookieb.

 

[al77]

Thanks for the advice, I've added a 2mm washer on the non-drive side.
I couldn't add any more as the axle wouldn't have been long enough to
fasten up axle nut on that side. Having now tightened up the axle nuts
the wheel is looking close enough to the centre not to cause a problem
with the brakes (I'm going to add a v-brakes in addition to the coaster
brake).

I'm still wondering if it's ok to chop the outer of the S7 shift cable?
It's just going to look messy to have to tie the cable all the way
along the frame! Especially when I'll have all those unused cable guide
brazings. Does anyone know why I shouldn't chop the S7 shift cable
outer? thanks again, alan

bookieb wrote:

> al77 wrote:
>
> > The S7 coaster hub is 130mm, The Urban 400 frame seems to be more like
> > 135mm.
> <snip>
> > I could add a nut to the other side of
> > the hub, but then the wheel wouldn't be centred causing probs with
> > mudguard/brake fitting. Doh!
> >
>
> <cowboy>
>
> Yeah, but it's only 5mm.
>
> On a steel frame, I'd just throw it in, tighten it up and give it a go.
>
> Chances are that both sides will come in a little, and the wheel will
> still be centred, or as close as makes no difference.
>
> The conventional wisdom is that Al frames, such as yours, are more
> prone to taking offense to this kind of treatment (i.e. cracking), so
> I'd sling 2 or 3 mm of a locknut or a washer on the non-drive side, and
> give it a go. The wheel will only be out of dish by a couple of mils.
>
> </cowboy>
>
> The correct way is to respace the axle to 135mm, making the changes on
> the on the non-drive side, then re-dish the wheel (or have it redished
> at bike shop if you're not happy to do it yourself).
>
> YMMV,
>
> bookieb.