The Toyota of Bicycles?

[[email protected]]

I have put on around 500 miles on my walmart bike commuting to work.
But now there is a strange clicking and looseness in the pedal crank
axle. I suspect there is some bearing problem and it probably wont
last another few hundred miles.

>From owning this bike, I have a much better idea of what bike I
really need. My main interest is reliability and ease of adjustments
in components. Which <$1000 bike manufacturer is known for this? Ill
probably get a hybrid/touring kind of bike

 

[landotter]

On Oct 2, 11:52 am, [email protected] wrote:
> I have put on around 500 miles on my walmart bike commuting to work.
> But now there is a strange clicking and looseness in the pedal crank
> axle. I suspect there is some bearing problem and it probably wont
> last another few hundred miles.
>
> >From owning this bike, I have a much better idea of what bike I
>
> really need. My main interest is reliability and ease of adjustments
> in components. Which <$1000 bike manufacturer is known for this? Ill
> probably get a hybrid/touring kind of bike

A well adjusted hub geared bike like a Breezer should be nearly
appliance like. Main thing is that the shop tunes the wheels and
greases/adjusts the hubs first thing, along with the usual tweaks.

My Nexus-7 bike I bought from Rapid Transit in Chicago was skillfully
serviced like that, and all I did was mount a fresh chain every six
months or so, and repack the front hub yearly--as I rode most of the
salty winter. Tens of thousands of miles, often laden, and I think I
only touched up the wheels a smidge a couple times. A virtual
Frigidaire.

Even a cheaper $350 bike should be very reliable--but again, only
after a thorough seeing-to by a good wrench.

So, again, it's the assembly more than the bike. Conversely, one can
build up a $3K bike to be unreliable as ****. It's not about throwing
money at a problem, short of paying a wrench a few bucks.

 

[sally]

[email protected] wrote in news:1191343972.848015.204490
@n39g2000hsh.googlegroups.com:
>From owning this bike, I have a much better idea of what bike I
> really need. My main interest is reliability and ease of adjustments
> in components. Which <$1000 bike manufacturer is known for this? Ill
> probably get a hybrid/touring kind of bike

Most bikes in this price range use the same Shimano components (or clones).

 

[David L. Johnson]

landotter wrote:
> On Oct 2, 11:52 am, [email protected] wrote:
>> I have put on around 500 miles on my walmart bike commuting to work.
>> But now there is a strange clicking and looseness in the pedal crank
>> axle. I suspect there is some bearing problem and it probably wont
>> last another few hundred miles.
>>
>> >From owning this bike, I have a much better idea of what bike I
>>
>> really need. My main interest is reliability and ease of adjustments
>> in components. Which <$1000 bike manufacturer is known for this? Ill
>> probably get a hybrid/touring kind of bike
>
Such a bike will have components known for reliability and ease of
adjustments, since in this price range you will either have Shimano or
maybe Ritchey components, and certainly Shimano shifters/derailleurs.

There was a time when, if you did not spend big bucks on a bike, you got
one with unsafe, hard-to-adjust, and flimsy components. No longer.
Most base-level equipment for a "real" bike is very reliable, and very
safe. I exclude Wal-Mart bikes and the like, since those will
definitely have problems. Even if they could be fixed, it ain't worth
the effort.

I do not agree that internal-geared hubs are the way to go. I had no
end of problems with my Shimano Nexus 7-speed hub, in terms of it going
out of adjustment (because the wheel would slip, not being
securely-enough attached to the frame, with only one anti-rotation
lockwasher). On the other hand, if you get one that is securely
attached, it becomes a bear to remove to replace an innertube. Then,
when you re-attach, the gears have to be adjusted.

I would suggest a straightforward 8 or 9 sprockets in the rear, and 3 up
front, with Shimano derailleurs. Upright bars? Mountain bike shifters
will last years. Brakes on any bike not sold in wal-mart (and similar)
will be excellent, no question. Either road style calipers, or
v-brakes, either way will work well. v-brakes let you use a bigger
tire, which is nice for commuting.

Go to a real bike shop. Get a fit that is more than just straddling the
top tube and seeing if it gooses you. Fit is more important than brand,
or frame material.

--

David L. Johnson

"Business!" cried the Ghost. "Mankind was my business. The common
welfare was my business; charity, mercy, forbearance, and benevolence,
were, all, my business. The dealings of my trade were but a drop of
water in the comprehensive ocean of my business!"
--Dickens, "A Christmas Carol"

 

[landotter]

On Oct 2, 4:26 pm, "David L. Johnson" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> landotter wrote:
> > On Oct 2, 11:52 am, [email protected] wrote:
> >> I have put on around 500 miles on my walmart bike commuting to work.
> >> But now there is a strange clicking and looseness in the pedal crank
> >> axle. I suspect there is some bearing problem and it probably wont
> >> last another few hundred miles.
>
> >> >From owning this bike, I have a much better idea of what bike I
>
> >> really need. My main interest is reliability and ease of adjustments
> >> in components. Which <$1000 bike manufacturer is known for this? Ill
> >> probably get a hybrid/touring kind of bike
>
> Such a bike will have components known for reliability and ease of
> adjustments, since in this price range you will either have Shimano or
> maybe Ritchey components, and certainly Shimano shifters/derailleurs.
>
> There was a time when, if you did not spend big bucks on a bike, you got
> one with unsafe, hard-to-adjust, and flimsy components. No longer.
> Most base-level equipment for a "real" bike is very reliable, and very
> safe. I exclude Wal-Mart bikes and the like, since those will
> definitely have problems. Even if they could be fixed, it ain't worth
> the effort.
>
> I do not agree that internal-geared hubs are the way to go. I had no
> end of problems with my Shimano Nexus 7-speed hub, in terms of it going
> out of adjustment (because the wheel would slip, not being
> securely-enough attached to the frame, with only one anti-rotation
> lockwasher).

So, because they didn't use two washers when assembling, you're going
to dismiss the hub? Millions of Europeans can't be wrong.

>On the other hand, if you get one that is securely
> attached, it becomes a bear to remove to replace an innertube. Then,
> when you re-attach, the gears have to be adjusted.

I believe I had two flats in 30K miles with mine. Both times I could
just slip out some tube and patch, just like my grandad taught me in
the old country. Put a Schwalbe Marathon on there and you'll likely
never ever have a flat.

>
> I would suggest a straightforward 8 or 9 sprockets in the rear, and 3 up
> front, with Shimano derailleurs.

Such a system is cheap to run, and I have such a city bike myself, but
it gets dirtier than a simple hub gear, is more of a bear to clean,
has more things to go out of adjustment. Plus, with cheap EZ-Fire
shifters, there is no trim, so you get only 6 gears per ring that
don't rub the front mech.

>Upright bars? Mountain bike shifters
> will last years. Brakes on any bike not sold in wal-mart (and similar)
> will be excellent, no question. Either road style calipers, or
> v-brakes, either way will work well. v-brakes let you use a bigger
> tire, which is nice for commuting.
>

V-brake front, roller brake rear. Again, millions of Europeans have
come to a virtual consensus on this, and having ridden the same setup,
I concur.

There's nothing wrong with a run of the mill American style hybrid,
but it's not the most elegant solution.

 

[DennisTheBald]

We have several bike shops here, and the first question any of the
employees of these establishments will ask you is "road or
mountain"...
Go to REI, they have bikes in stock that have wide, smooth tires AND
quality components - most of the bike shops only have bikes with one
or the other.

I have a couple of their Novara brand bikes that didn't cost $1000
between the two of 'em. One came with racks front and rear. Each of
them have carried my butt to work for more than 10kmi with no more
than routine maintenance. But we don't salt the roads down here
either.

I'm probably not buying another one as they don't make a recumbent and
I don't think I'll ride anything else. My next bike will probably be
Rans.

 

[landotter]

On Oct 2, 11:52 am, [email protected] wrote:
> I have put on around 500 miles on my walmart bike commuting to work.
> But now there is a strange clicking and looseness in the pedal crank
> axle. I suspect there is some bearing problem and it probably wont
> last another few hundred miles.
>
> >From owning this bike, I have a much better idea of what bike I
>
> really need. My main interest is reliability and ease of adjustments
> in components. Which <$1000 bike manufacturer is known for this? Ill
> probably get a hybrid/touring kind of bike

http://www.rei.com/product/744802

Or one of the commonly recommended touring/xcross derailleur bikes
mentioned here like the Surly Crosscheck/LHT, Jamis Aurora, Bianchi,
etc.

For shorter city stuff, and if you want really low maintenance, a
hubbed gear bike is ideal. If you are doing epic rides, then a Shimano
derailler system like the touring bikes mentioned, is also fairly
simple--and a little more efficient.

If you're doing shorter distances in the city, the Jamis commuter
series is very affordable, and sensible:

http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/07_bikes/commuter2.html

Again, the biggest pain in the ass is usually wheels not being
reliable. Have your shop destress them to seat the spoke heads, then
true and bring up to tension.

 

[David L. Johnson]

landotter wrote:
>
> So, because they didn't use two washers when assembling, you're going
> to dismiss the hub? Millions of Europeans can't be wrong.

Sure they can, but that's not the entire story.
>
>> On the other hand, if you get one that is securely
>> attached, it becomes a bear to remove to replace an innertube. Then,
>> when you re-attach, the gears have to be adjusted.
>
> I believe I had two flats in 30K miles with mine. Both times I could
> just slip out some tube and patch, just like my grandad taught me in
> the old country.

In Europe? Anyway, some people have better luck than others, or taller
tales. Or maybe you're not trying to suggest that you get 30,000 miles
on a rear tire.

I also guess you were lucky enough to never have a flat where the tube
wasn't patchable, such as at the stem. Or maybe a flat in the rain,
where patching the tube is not really an option unless you can get indoors.

> Such a system is cheap to run, and I have such a city bike myself, but
> it gets dirtier than a simple hub gear, is more of a bear to clean,
> has more things to go out of adjustment. Plus, with cheap EZ-Fire
> shifters, there is no trim, so you get only 6 gears per ring that
> don't rub the front mech.

Hmm, dirt? Chains get dirty on both systems, and that is really the
same problem for both. Cassettes get gunk in between the sprockets, but
so? Not a problem. Derailleurs do occasionally benefit from cleaning
up, but it's not a big deal.

But don't run down a system for "only" having 6 gears per ring, 18
total, versus an internal hub with 7. Yes, I know about Rholoff hubs,
but at $500 per, maybe that is not an option here.
>
>> Upright bars? Mountain bike shifters
>> will last years. Brakes on any bike not sold in wal-mart (and similar)
>> will be excellent, no question. Either road style calipers, or
>> v-brakes, either way will work well. v-brakes let you use a bigger
>> tire, which is nice for commuting.
>>
>
> V-brake front, roller brake rear. Again, millions of Europeans have
> come to a virtual consensus on this, and having ridden the same setup,
> I concur.

Yeah, sure. Roller brake rear. Maybe in Denmark, where there are no
hills. I had a roller brake on my Nexus. Worst part of the system.
Terrible brake.
>
> There's nothing wrong with a run of the mill American style hybrid,
> but it's not the most elegant solution.
>
Elegant? No one should consider an internal hub gear as an elegant
solution of anything. They may be an engineering marvel, but it's like
a Swiss watch inside, and there better not be anything that goes wrong
with it, since it will be toast. With Rholoff, at least, you send it
back to the factory when something breaks. The factory is in Europe.

--

David L. Johnson

And though I have the gift of prophecy, and understand all mysteries,
and all knowledge; and though I have all faith, so that I could remove
mountains, and have not charity, I am nothing. [1 Corinth. 13:2]

 

[David L. Johnson]

DennisTheBald wrote:
> We have several bike shops here, and the first question any of the
> employees of these establishments will ask you is "road or
> mountain"...
> Go to REI, they have bikes in stock that have wide, smooth tires AND
> quality components - most of the bike shops only have bikes with one
> or the other.

If there is an REI nearby, that is a good choice.

--

David L. Johnson

And though I have the gift of prophecy, and understand all mysteries,
and all knowledge; and though I have all faith, so that I could remove
mountains, and have not charity, I am nothing. [1 Corinth. 13:2]

 

[Tom \Johnny Sunset\ Sherman]

Dennis The Bald wrote:
> ...
> I'm probably not buying another one as they don't make a recumbent and
> I don't think I'll ride anything else. My next bike will probably be
> Rans.

What is a "Rans"?

"RANS" IS ALWAYS IN ALL CAPITAL LETTERS!!!

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
1999 RANS Wave to Tailwind Conversion
2000 RANS Rocket

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

 

[[email protected]]

On Oct 2, 9:52 am, [email protected] wrote:
> I have put on around 500 miles on my walmart bike commuting to work.
> But now there is a strange clicking and looseness in the pedal crank
> axle. I suspect there is some bearing problem and it probably wont
> last another few hundred miles.
>
> >From owning this bike, I have a much better idea of what bike I
>
> really need. My main interest is reliability and ease of adjustments
> in components. Which <$1000 bike manufacturer is known for this? Ill
> probably get a hybrid/touring kind of bike

Try getting an older "road bike" from the 70's or 80's. Usually they
are 10 or 12 speeds. I am thinking of Biachi, Norco, Apollo, Kawahara,
Peugeot, Miele etc. You will pay between $100 and $250 for these bikes
off Craigslist. People will call them "vintage" but they are not
delicate. They have lasted for over 25 years. I commute to work on
these types of machines in all weather conditions, and all I have to
do is change brake pads, oil the chain, and fix flats. They are heavy,
but strong as hell, ride fast and smooth. Look for derailleurs by
Suntour, brakes by Dia-Compe.

examples
http://vancouver.craigslist.org/bik/420247153.html
http://vancouver.craigslist.org/bik/437183568.html

 

[landotter]

On Oct 2, 7:49 pm, "David L. Johnson" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> landotter wrote:
>
> > So, because they didn't use two washers when assembling, you're going
> > to dismiss the hub? Millions of Europeans can't be wrong.
>
> Sure they can, but that's not the entire story.
>
>
Your've simply made your experience your opinion and are getting bull
headed. A sample of one is a shitty survey.
>
> >> On the other hand, if you get one that is securely
> >> attached, it becomes a bear to remove to replace an innertube. Then,
> >> when you re-attach, the gears have to be adjusted.
>
No they don't. That's just straight up ******** if you have threaded
drops--and even if you have to adjust the gear--you twist a doohicky
till the red dots line up. It's not hard.

> > I believe I had two flats in 30K miles with mine. Both times I could
> > just slip out some tube and patch, just like my grandad taught me in
> > the old country.
>
> In Europe? Anyway, some people have better luck than others, or taller
> tales. Or maybe you're not trying to suggest that you get 30,000 miles
> on a rear tire.

No, about 5-10K on heavy duty tires of various brands.

>
> I also guess you were lucky enough to never have a flat where the tube
> wasn't patchable, such as at the stem. Or maybe a flat in the rain,
> where patching the tube is not really an option unless you can get indoors.

With a strong Dunlop or Schrader valve in a smooth hole, valve failure
is extremely rare. I never had a flat with my Kroon in Sweden 89-90.
Niver had a valve or sidewall failure on my Nexus bike--you run tough
gumwall tires on these sunsabitches.

>
> > Such a system is cheap to run, and I have such a city bike myself, but
> > it gets dirtier than a simple hub gear, is more of a bear to clean,
> > has more things to go out of adjustment. Plus, with cheap EZ-Fire
> > shifters, there is no trim, so you get only 6 gears per ring that
> > don't rub the front mech.
>
> Hmm, dirt? Chains get dirty on both systems, and that is really the
> same problem for both. Cassettes get gunk in between the sprockets, but
> so? Not a problem. Derailleurs do occasionally benefit from cleaning
> up, but it's not a big deal.

You can run a gear hub with a chain that's simply appalling, not just
dirty. I've ridden farm bike in Scandinavia that I swore was belt
driven by the looks of it.

>
> But don't run down a system for "only" having 6 gears per ring, 18
> total, versus an internal hub with 7. Yes, I know about Rholoff hubs,
> but at $500 per, maybe that is not an option here.

It's about having 7-8 gears in a row, linear with no chain crossing,
no worries, no thinking, just up or down.


>
> >> Upright bars? Mountain bike shifters
> >> will last years. Brakes on any bike not sold in wal-mart (and similar)
> >> will be excellent, no question. Either road style calipers, or
> >> v-brakes, either way will work well. v-brakes let you use a bigger
> >> tire, which is nice for commuting.
>
> > V-brake front, roller brake rear. Again, millions of Europeans have
> > come to a virtual consensus on this, and having ridden the same setup,
> > I concur.
>
> Yeah, sure. Roller brake rear. Maybe in Denmark, where there are no
> hills. I had a roller brake on my Nexus. Worst part of the system.
> Terrible brake.

Wonderful brake, what are you talking about? Great feel, but not
terribly powerful--but stupid reliable. A great brake for places with
wintry conditions. It's not a high zoot brake--but a leave out in the
rain every day brake. Repack it yearly with grease if you do high
miles, and you're good--that's if it's ridden all winter in salt. One
service does ya. Kept a bit more dear, the thing should do five years
between greasings.
>
> > There's nothing wrong with a run of the mill American style hybrid,
> > but it's not the most elegant solution.
>
> Elegant? No one should consider an internal hub gear as an elegant
> solution of anything.

Everyone should. They work for me, my grandma, my uncle, at least five
cousins, my uncle and a dozen friends. Don't get all pissy because you
had a single bad experience with one. That's just mean.

> They may be an engineering marvel, but it's like
> a Swiss watch inside, and there better not be anything that goes wrong
> with it, since it will be toast.

It's extremely rare to ever have a problem with these. Just ask
Sheldon.

>With Rholoff, at least, you send it
> back to the factory when something breaks. The factory is in Europe.

Link me up to the horror stories of these things failing all over
Europe and you might be taken seriously.
>___
> And though I have the gift of prophecy, and understand all mysteries,
> and all knowledge; and though I have all faith, so that I could remove
> mountains, and have not charity, I am nothing. [1 Corinth. 13:2]

People that quote the Bible are usually hypocrites in some way. ;-)

 

[David L. Johnson]

landotter wrote:
> On Oct 2, 7:49 pm, "David L. Johnson" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>> landotter wrote:
>>
>>> So, because they didn't use two washers when assembling, you're going
>>> to dismiss the hub? Millions of Europeans can't be wrong.
>> Sure they can, but that's not the entire story.
>>
>>
> Your've simply made your experience your opinion and are getting bull
> headed. A sample of one is a shitty survey.

Umm, gee, I've turned my experience into my opinion. How could I be so
stupid! I never claimed to have done a survey, shitty or not.
"Millions" of Europeans, on the other hand, is completely precise, I
suppose. Not all of those Europeans use hub gears, by the way.

>>>> On the other hand, if you get one that is securely
>>>> attached, it becomes a bear to remove to replace an innertube. Then,
>>>> when you re-attach, the gears have to be adjusted.
> No they don't. That's just straight up ******** if you have threaded
> drops--and even if you have to adjust the gear--you twist a doohicky
> till the red dots line up. It's not hard.

It is as hard, or harder, than adjusting derailleur shift levers, and
the majority of riders take the bike in to the shop to have that done.
So, your average Joe changes a tube on a wheel with an internal gear
hub, and what happens? It's put back together, if at all, out of
adjustment, and you know as well as I that an internal-gear hub that's
out of adjustment can cause quite a bit of havoc, slipping gears, no
gears at all, auto-shifts.

> No, about 5-10K on heavy duty tires of various brands.

And each time your average user --- remember, the OP was just getting
started --- has to change a tire, we're back with adjustment problems.
>
>> I also guess you were lucky enough to never have a flat where the tube
>> wasn't patchable, such as at the stem. Or maybe a flat in the rain,
>> where patching the tube is not really an option unless you can get indoors.
>
> With a strong Dunlop or Schrader valve in a smooth hole, valve failure
> is extremely rare.

OK. Sure.

I never had a flat with my Kroon in Sweden 89-90.
> Niver had a valve or sidewall failure on my Nexus bike--you run tough
> gumwall tires on these sunsabitches.

You can run tough tires on whatever bike you want -- as long as the
frame is designed properly.

> Wonderful brake, what are you talking about? Great feel, but not
> terribly powerful--but stupid reliable. A great brake for places with
> wintry conditions. It's not a high zoot brake--but a leave out in the
> rain every day brake. Repack it yearly with grease if you do high
> miles, and you're good--that's if it's ridden all winter in salt.

"Not terribly powerful" does not make a great brake by my reckoning.
For me, a rear brake is mostly a backup if the front cable should break,
but if it does, I would need the rear brake to be able to stop me on a
downhill. "Not terribly powerful" in that instance translates into
disaster. And for the roller brake that comes with the Nexus hubs, "not
very powerful" is kind.

How often do you have to "service" a caliper brake? I replace cables
every year, but that is obsessive-compulsive on my part. Pads last
quite a bit longer if they are decent. Oh, and be sure to pack that
brake with the special Shimano grease, or else...


> It's extremely rare to ever have a problem with these. Just ask
> Sheldon.

It's also extremely rare to have a problem with a plain ol' Shimano
derailleur. But hub gears are very particular about adjustment, and
they do make tire/tube changes considerably harder --- so hard that you
go out of your way to say you don't even remove the wheel to fix a flat,
patching the tube instead. Do you do that with a front flat? No. Why
not? Because it is a lot more trouble, and less reliable. You can't
check to see whether there is something sharp still inside, or maybe the
flat was caused by a problem with the rim tape, or the tire casing is
bad. All these things could happen, and would cause a quick second
flat. But you do that with a rear flat because it is too much of a pain
in the ass to take the wheel off.

> People that quote the Bible are usually hypocrites in some way. ;-)

So are people who turn a discussion into an ad hominum attack.

--

David L. Johnson

Anyone who is capable of getting themselves made President should on
no account be allowed to do the job.
-- Douglas Adams

 

[DennisTheBald]

On Oct 2, 8:43 pm, "Tom \"Johnny Sunset\" Sherman"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Dennis The Bald wrote:
> > ...
> > I'm probably not buying another one as they don't make a recumbent and
> > I don't think I'll ride anything else. My next bike will probably be
> > Rans.
>
> What is a "Rans"?
>
> "RANS" IS ALWAYS IN ALL CAPITAL LETTERS!!!
>
> --
> Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
> 1999 RANS Wave to Tailwind Conversion
> 2000 RANS Rocket
>
> --
> Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

rans rans rans

I don't give a damn how all y'all spell it.
What are you, the branding police?

jeeze lousie if you got anything to do with that outfit I'm not
spending my money there.

KISS MY CARBON FIBER SEAT PAN, COW BOY

 

[DennisTheBald]

..
> > Go to REI, they have bikes in stock that have wide, smooth tires AND
> > quality components - most of the bike shops only have bikes with one
> > or the other.
>
> If there is an REI nearby, that is a good choice.
>
> --
>
> David L. Johnson

They do a significant mail order/web business.... I'm not sure I could
recommend buying a bike without at least a spin through the parking
lot first, tho. But stories about that outfit shipping replacement
parts and such to remote locations, really remote locations, are not
that uncommon. The service department there seems to understand the
kind of riding a commuter does a little bit better than the other bike
shops 'round these parts.

On the other hand, they don't carry 'bents like the ones rans makes.

Look at what they do got: rei.com/cycling

 

[Andrew Price]

On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 02:21:10 -0000, landotter <[email protected]>
wrote:

>> > So, because they didn't use two washers when assembling, you're going
>> > to dismiss the hub? Millions of Europeans can't be wrong.
>>
>> Sure they can, but that's not the entire story.
>
>Your've simply made your experience your opinion and are getting bull
>headed.

It's an embarrassing display of provincial ignorance, coupled with
more than a bit of disingenuous intellectual dishonesty. I'd plonk
him, except that he provides comic relief.

 

[Tom \Johnny Sunset\ Sherman]

Dennis The Bald humorlessly wrote:
> On Oct 2, 8:43 pm, "Tom \"Johnny Sunset\" Sherman"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Dennis The Bald wrote:
>>> ...
>>> I'm probably not buying another one as they don't make a recumbent and
>>> I don't think I'll ride anything else. My next bike will probably be
>>> Rans.
>> What is a "Rans"?
>>
>> "RANS" IS ALWAYS IN ALL CAPITAL LETTERS!!!
>>
>
> rans rans rans
>
> I don't give a damn how all y'all spell it.
> What are you, the branding police?

Hey, I have been correcting the mis-capitalization of "Rans" instead of
"RANS" for over seven (7) years now.

> jeeze lousie if you got anything to do with that outfit I'm not
> spending my money there.

My only connection with RANS is as a customer.

> KISS MY CARBON FIBER SEAT PAN, COW BOY

"DON'T HAVE A COW, MAN!" - Bart Simpson

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
A Real Cyclist [TM] keeps at least one bicycle in the bedroom.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

 

[Claire Petersky]

"landotter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

> On Oct 2, 11:52 am, [email protected] wrote:
>> I have put on around 500 miles on my walmart bike commuting to work.
>> But now there is a strange clicking and looseness in the pedal crank
>> axle. I suspect there is some bearing problem and it probably wont
>> last another few hundred miles.
>>
>> >From owning this bike, I have a much better idea of what bike I
>> really need. My main interest is reliability and ease of adjustments
>> in components. Which <$1000 bike manufacturer is known for this? Ill
>> probably get a hybrid/touring kind of bike
>
> http://www.rei.com/product/744802

Since you mentioned REI, the Novara Randonee Bike is on sale now for less
than a thousand:
http://www.rei.com/product/744804. I know lots of folks who were happy with
that one.


--
Warm Regards,

Claire Petersky
http://www.bicyclemeditations.org/
See the books I've set free at: http://bookcrossing.com/referral/Cpetersky

 

[me]

On Tue, 02 Oct 2007 09:52:52 -0700, oprah.chopra wrote:

> I have put on around 500 miles on my walmart bike commuting to work. But
> now there is a strange clicking and looseness in the pedal crank axle. I
> suspect there is some bearing problem and it probably wont last another
> few hundred miles.
>
>>From owning this bike, I have a much better idea of what bike I
> really need. My main interest is reliability and ease of adjustments in
> components. Which <$1000 bike manufacturer is known for this? Ill
> probably get a hybrid/touring kind of bike

I am impressed you got 500 miles out of it, how much did you pay?
From the description of the noise I would guess your Bottom Bracket
( Main axle for the crank ) is loose/ worn out. Take it to a LBS
and ask if they think it is worth throwing a sealed BB in.
( maybe $50-60 )

 

[Aeek]

I still have a problem with the OP's equating discount department
store bikes with toyotas. Toyotas are traditionally boring but
reliable. These bikes are image for the cheapest possible cost.