Threadlock as antiseize?

Pete-<< I'm fitting a Record BB but don't want to use grease or antiseize on
both
cups because I'm having to leave the left cup looser than ideal to
overcome the binding side effect from imperfect faces. >><BR><BR>

Why on earth would you resort to 'gluing' the BB cups in rather than have the
BB shell faced??

The frameset should last dern near forever, BBs are a replacable.

Sorry, I jes don get it.

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

Pete-<< I'm fitting a Record BB but don't want to use grease or
antiseize on both
cups because I'm having to leave the left cup looser than ideal to
overcome the binding side effect from imperfect faces. >><BR><BR>

Why on earth would you resort to 'gluing' the BB cups in rather than
have the BB shell faced??

To save leaving my bike at a shop, getting the bus home and not having the
use of the bike for a few days, frankly. However, of course I will do
that if necessary, if there's anything seriously wrong with "glueing", so
I look forward to getting a direct answer to my question if anyone can
help. Thanks.

Quoted message said:

The frameset should last dern near forever, BBs are a replacable.

Threadlock doesn't have to be permanent.

Quoted message said:

Sorry, I jes don get it.

That's because you're a bike shop man. I'm a DIY-at-home man. I don't
"do bike shops" ever since my LBS closed down.

~PB

Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

Why on earth would you resort to 'gluing' the BB cups in rather than
have the BB shell faced??

Peter, I remember reading that you sometimes "back off" BB's a little if
they bind. I'm just thinking of doing the same thing, really.

~PB

Anaerobic curing thread locking compounds can reduce corrosion between dissimilar metals but they cannot stop all corrosion. Nor will any thread locking compound electrically isolate the anodic component (usually aluminum or magnesium) from the cathodic component (ferrous, titanium or carbon). Its the anodic component which oxidizes.

In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden]
says...

Quoted message said:

Does threadlock compound (such as Loctite) prevent chemical reaction
between titanium and alumninium?

I'm fitting a Record BB but don't want to use grease or antiseize on both
cups because I'm having to leave the left cup looser than ideal to
overcome the binding side effect from imperfect faces. This is a (lazy)
alternative to getting the shell faced recommended by Campagnolo, and I'm
happy with that except I'm worried about the seizsure aspect.

That's like asking what brand of duct tape would work best to hold your
arm in place after it was severed in an accident. It's just not a good
idea to do it that way. Get your frame faced and then use grease and
tighten down the cup properly. Not having your BB fall apart half way
through a ride is well worth the cost of gettin the BB faced.
----------------
Alex

In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden]
says...

Quoted message said:

That's because you're a bike shop man. I'm a DIY-at-home man. I don't
"do bike shops" ever since my LBS closed down.

I woudl then suggest picking up a BB facing tool and doing that yourself.
Then you don't have to leave your bike at the bike shop.
----------------
Alex

Alex Rodriguez said:

Quoted message said:

Does threadlock compound (such as Loctite) prevent chemical reaction
between titanium and alumninium?

I'm fitting a Record BB but don't want to use grease or antiseize on
both cups because I'm having to leave the left cup looser than ideal
to
overcome the binding side effect from imperfect faces. This is a
(lazy) alternative to getting the shell faced recommended by
Campagnolo, and I'm happy with that except I'm worried about the
seizsure aspect.

That's like asking what brand of duct tape would work best to hold
your
arm in place after it was severed in an accident. It's just not a
good
idea to do it that way. Get your frame faced and then use grease and
tighten down the cup properly. Not having your BB fall apart half way
through a ride is well worth the cost of gettin the BB faced.

It's not going to fall apart.

~PB

Pete Biggs said:

Does threadlock compound (such as Loctite) prevent chemical reaction
between titanium and alumninium?

I'm fitting a Record BB but don't want to use grease or antiseize on
both cups because I'm having to leave the left cup looser than ideal
to overcome the binding side effect from imperfect faces. This is a
(lazy) alternative to getting the shell faced recommended by
Campagnolo, and I'm happy with that except I'm worried about the
seizsure aspect.

I know you dont' want to get it faced, but if you hit up a shop early in the
morning, they can probably do it for you in less than 20 minutes. A
chase/face doesn't take that long.
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

"Pete Biggs" <[email hidden]> wrote in
message news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Alex Rodriguez said:

Quoted message said:

Does threadlock compound (such as Loctite) prevent chemical

reaction

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

between titanium and alumninium?

I'm fitting a Record BB but don't want to use grease or

antiseize on

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

both cups because I'm having to leave the left cup looser

than ideal

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

to
overcome the binding side effect from imperfect faces. This

is a

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

(lazy) alternative to getting the shell faced recommended by
Campagnolo, and I'm happy with that except I'm worried about

the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

seizsure aspect.

That's like asking what brand of duct tape would work best to

hold

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

your
arm in place after it was severed in an accident. It's just

not a

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

good
idea to do it that way. Get your frame faced and then use

grease and

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

tighten down the cup properly. Not having your BB fall apart

half way

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

through a ride is well worth the cost of gettin the BB faced.

It's not going to fall apart.

Why is facing even necessary with the current crop of cartridge
BBs? I assume the BB shell threads are parallel to each other,
and it seems to me that if the threads are parallel, then any
lack of absolurely uniform contact by the outer flange/BB shell
face really does not make much difference. It was different with
open balls and no cartridge, but my small mind does not see why
absolute perfection is required for cartridge units. -- Jay
Beattie.

Jay Beattie said:

Why is facing even necessary with the current crop of cartridge
BBs? I assume the BB shell threads are parallel to each other,
and it seems to me that if the threads are parallel, then any
lack of absolurely uniform contact by the outer flange/BB shell
face really does not make much difference. It was different with
open balls and no cartridge, but my small mind does not see why
absolute perfection is required for cartridge units.

I don't understand it myself, I must admit, but spindle friction of
Campagnolo cartridge BBs greatly increases if something is not quite right
with the shell, and loosening one cup cures the problem. I've found BB's
that were troublesome in one bike to be fine in another when fully
tightened.

Note: Chorus/Record BB left cup doesn't have a lip to contact the face at
all, which confuses me.

Perhaps the threads are not parallel. What else can I do if that is the
case?

~PB

Quoted message said:

To save leaving my bike at a shop, getting the bus home and not having the
use of the bike for a few days, frankly.

I do not see any logic involved! If you don't like the frame and have an
unlimited supply of BB's go ahead. I can't even imagine the creaking,
popping and other interesting noises your bearings will make. My shop
just chased my new road frame in about 20min! Only $10!! Call ahead see
what the work load is like and go on a light day.

Just my $0.02

--

Let the bridges I burn light my way...

Alex Rodriguez said:

Quoted message said:

Not having your BB fall apart half way
through a ride is well worth the cost of gettin the BB faced.

Pete Biggs said:

It's not going to fall apart.

~PB

I think it will.... Can you imagine how big of a pain in the ass
replacing the BB (and you will need to replace it, often) will be with
all of that lock-tite in there.
--

Let the bridges I burn light my way...

Wasatch5k said:

Alex Rodriguez said:

Quoted message said:

Not having your BB fall apart half way
through a ride is well worth the cost of gettin the BB faced.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

It's not going to fall apart.

I think it will....

How?

Quoted message said:

Can you imagine how big of a pain in the ass
replacing the BB (and you will need to replace it, often) will be with
all of that lock-tite in there.

I think that's [censored]. I will not need to replace it often if it's not
binding.

As for the loc-tite issue: I'm trying an experiment first: Fit with PTFE
tape instead, make a mark and watch if it unscrews in use. If it does
then I'll try something else or take professional advice.

~PB

Wasatch5k said:

Quoted message said:

To save leaving my bike at a shop, getting the bus home and not
having the use of the bike for a few days, frankly.

I do not see any logic involved! If you don't like the frame and have
an unlimited supply of BB's go ahead. I can't even imagine the
creaking, popping and other interesting noises your bearings will
make.

There's no reason the *bearings* should make a noise.

Quoted message said:

My shop
just chased my new road frame in about 20min! Only $10!! Call ahead
see what the work load is like and go on a light day.

Just my $0.02

And I can do without it thanks. I asked a technical question about
Ti/threadlock/Al -- the answers to which I will use to make my own mind
up. (Thank you to Weisse Luft).

BTW, I live in London, England--none of the bike shops that I would trust
have any quiet days. Plus I'm not sure that facing would solve the
problem anyway.

I already know it is reasonable to have the left cup not fully torqued as
I have done it before with another BB (but without threadlock) and because
that is what Campagnolo recommends, with threadlock!!

My only major concern is about Al/Ti bonding, an issue Campag don't
mention.

~PB

Pete-<< To save leaving my bike at a shop, getting the bus home and not having
the
use of the bike for a few days, frankly. However, of course I will do
that if necessary, if there's anything seriously wrong with "glueing", so
I look forward to getting a direct answer to my question if anyone can
help. >><BR><BR>

Yep, you run the risk of it galling into the BB shell and having to cut it out
or when riding the bicycle, the BB cups will unscrew...

I'd say bite the bullet, take the bus and install the BB correctly.

Pete<< That's because you're a bike shop man. I'm a DIY-at-home man. I
don't
"do bike shops" ever since my LBS closed down. >><BR><BR>

Then buy a facing tool and DIY...

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

Pete-<< Peter, I remember reading that you sometimes "back off" BB's a little
if
they bind. I'm just thinking of doing the same thing, really. >><BR><BR>

Not me bubba...I don't like to see BBs coming unscrewed, the one's I install.

If it binds, on a faced frameset, the threads are not parallel, just saw this
on a Merlin-speed-

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

Jay-<< Why is facing even necessary with the current crop of cartridge
BBs? I assume the BB shell threads are parallel to each other,
and it seems to me that if the threads are parallel, then any
lack of absolurely uniform contact by the outer flange/BB shell
face really does not make much difference. >><BR><BR>

Don't assume the faces are parallel, cuz most are not. If the BB has a lip that
contacts the shell, like on the current crop of BBs, then facing is neccesary.
The only BB \where it is not is a Phill BB.

If it is not faced, and it binds, you will kill it quickly.

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

Hi, As you know, the Campy Record BB only has one flanged cup, and
that's the drive side/right side. Only the drive side of the frame
would need facing. Other option as Peter Chisholm states is the Phil
Wood BB which has no flanges on either side cup.

As Peter also suggests, it does sound like the threads were tapped on
the frame in an un-parallel fashoin?

Hope you make out OK Mark D.

Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

Pete-<< To save leaving my bike at a shop, getting the bus home and
not having the
use of the bike for a few days, frankly. However, of course I will do
that if necessary, if there's anything seriously wrong with
"glueing", so
I look forward to getting a direct answer to my question if anyone can
help. >><BR><BR>

Yep, you run the risk of it galling into the BB shell and having to
cut it out or when riding the bicycle, the BB cups will unscrew...

I'd say bite the bullet, take the bus and install the BB correctly.

Ok, thanks Peter. I will eventually do that or get the tool, but I'll try
my little experiement with PTFE tape first. I'll forget the Loctite.

~PB