trimming and installing a dura ace chain



I am stuck with a trivial task. I have a new Dura Ace 10 speed chain,
and the length I need is ~7 links shorter than what came. So I
disconnected the 7 extra links by pushing a pin half way out. Then I
was going to push that pin completely out , and to re-connect the chain
with the "master" pin that came separately with the chain. The problem
is that I can't push the existing pin completely out. I don't know how
much force I am supposed to apply. I was trying to push so hard that I
bent the handle of the chain tool. So now I at least need a new chain
tool, may still need to go to a bike shop to have this simple job done
for me, and I am not sure if I have damaged the $40 chain also. The
Zinn book just says "push the pin out". 50% of my bike projects end up
like this.

Is there anything special about Dura Ace chains, like, the pins being
especially strong? I did not have trouble with Ultegra chains.
 
On 2006-10-16, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:
> I am stuck with a trivial task. I have a new Dura Ace 10 speed chain,
> and the length I need is ~7 links shorter than what came. So I
> disconnected the 7 extra links by pushing a pin half way out. Then I
> was going to push that pin completely out , and to re-connect the chain
> with the "master" pin that came separately with the chain. The problem
> is that I can't push the existing pin completely out. I don't know how
> much force I am supposed to apply. I was trying to push so hard that I
> bent the handle of the chain tool.


My chain tool said in the instructions it is specially designed not to
push the pin all the way out, I think on the grounds that you want to
push it back in again for reassembling (except of course you don't these
days, because you have to put the special pin in).

If your chain tool is similar then you may have got to the end of the
threads and have been overtightening the tool without actually pushing
the pin any more.

> So now I at least need a new chain tool, may still need to go to a
> bike shop to have this simple job done for me, and I am not sure if I
> have damaged the $40 chain also. The Zinn book just says "push the pin
> out". 50% of my bike projects end up like this.


Can't you just grab the pin with pliers or even fingers and pull it out
the last bit? I don't think it should be hard once the pin is almost all
the way out.

Having said that, I think these instructions might also have said you
use the old pin as a guide for the master pin. So you put the chain back
together as if you were going to reuse the old pin, push it some of the
way in, add the master pin behind it, and push the whole lot through.
The old pin then pops out of the other side. I may have mis-remembered
this though, but it sounds plausible.

The other option is to reassemble with an SRAM powerlink, which means
you can take the chain off later and clean it by shaking it in a plastic
bottle half-full of paraffin etc.
 
[email protected] wrote:
> I am stuck with a trivial task. I have a new Dura Ace 10 speed chain,
> and the length I need is ~7 links shorter than what came. So I
> disconnected the 7 extra links by pushing a pin half way out. Then I
> was going to push that pin completely out , and to re-connect the chain
> with the "master" pin that came separately with the chain. The problem
> is that I can't push the existing pin completely out. I don't know how
> much force I am supposed to apply. I was trying to push so hard that I
> bent the handle of the chain tool. So now I at least need a new chain
> tool, may still need to go to a bike shop to have this simple job done
> for me, and I am not sure if I have damaged the $40 chain also. The
> Zinn book just says "push the pin out". 50% of my bike projects end up
> like this.
>
> Is there anything special about Dura Ace chains, like, the pins being
> especially strong? I did not have trouble with Ultegra chains.


Longer pin on the chain tool. Should be able to push it out, can with
my Pedro tool. Read the instructions carefully as well, the chain has a
direction, the inside section of the link must be going 'forward' or
'pulling'. OR find a 6mm wipperman link and throw the pin away.
 

> If your chain tool is similar then you may have got to the end of the
> threads and have been overtightening the tool without actually pushing
> the pin any more.


This is probably what's happening, I haven't thought about it.

> Having said that, I think these instructions might also have said you
> use the old pin as a guide for the master pin. So you put the chain back
> together as if you were going to reuse the old pin, push it some of the
> way in, add the master pin behind it, and push the whole lot through.
> The old pin then pops out of the other side. I may have mis-remembered
> this though, but it sounds plausible.


Sounds plausible to me, too. I wil try that.

BTW the chain instructions did not say anything regarding how to deal
with the old pin, they only tell how to push in the new one.

Thanks !!
 
On 2006-10-16, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> If your chain tool is similar then you may have got to the end of the
>> threads and have been overtightening the tool without actually pushing
>> the pin any more.

>
> This is probably what's happening, I haven't thought about it.
>
>> Having said that, I think these instructions might also have said you
>> use the old pin as a guide for the master pin. So you put the chain back
>> together as if you were going to reuse the old pin, push it some of the
>> way in, add the master pin behind it, and push the whole lot through.
>> The old pin then pops out of the other side. I may have mis-remembered
>> this though, but it sounds plausible.

>
> Sounds plausible to me, too. I wil try that.
>
> BTW the chain instructions did not say anything regarding how to deal
> with the old pin, they only tell how to push in the new one.


I've now found the instructions. They say "insert the pilot end of the
replacement rivet into the rivet hole. The old rivet will be driven out
as the new rivet is pressed in".

But I think push the old rivet out the way it was going already,
otherwise the little peen from the other end will be left behind as a
sort of mini washer on the inside. Probably doesn't much matter.
 
[email protected] wrote:
> > If your chain tool is similar then you may have got to the end of the
> > threads and have been overtightening the tool without actually pushing
> > the pin any more.

>
> This is probably what's happening, I haven't thought about it.
>
> > Having said that, I think these instructions might also have said you
> > use the old pin as a guide for the master pin. So you put the chain back
> > together as if you were going to reuse the old pin, push it some of the
> > way in, add the master pin behind it, and push the whole lot through.
> > The old pin then pops out of the other side. I may have mis-remembered
> > this though, but it sounds plausible.

>
> Sounds plausible to me, too. I wil try that.
>
> BTW the chain instructions did not say anything regarding how to deal
> with the old pin, they only tell how to push in the new one.


Having some sort of pin already in the chain is from OEM, not sure if
shimano does that for OEM or the bike maker. shimano chains new in the
package do not have any pins partially in the plates.
>
> Thanks !!
 
All right. Pushing the "old" pin out with the power pin is the key.
Here is what worked:
- remove the old chain - easy
- whipe the new chain
- compare the new chain side by side with old one. The new chain is
longer by N=~10 links (I have a compact crank). Mark the pin on the new
chain that you want to disconnect
- install the new chain on the bike (small ring, small cog)
- from the outside, push out the marked pin with the chain tool until
the pin is held only by the inside link. Disconnect the extra ~10 links
- Push in the power pin that came with the new chain, using the power
pin to completely push out the old pin.

Takes 10 min if done right.