Upgrading a mid-80s Dawes to Indexed

[ethan]

Hi,

I'm thinking of purchasing a used, mid-80s Dawes Galaxy in great
condition. I'll probably want to upgrade to rear deraileur to indexed
shifting at some point and I'm curious how much I should budget for
this. I'd expect to need to adjust the dropout spacing, but will I
need to use a claw or add any brazed-on eyelets or the like? That might
be a bit too much.

Anyone have experiencing upgrading one of these bikes? Is it possible
to use most modern parts or are there measurement issues (french vs.
standard, etc) that would prevent me from using shimano components and
such?

Thanks.

Ethan

 

[landotter]

ethan wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I'm thinking of purchasing a used, mid-80s Dawes Galaxy in great
> condition. I'll probably want to upgrade to rear deraileur to indexed
> shifting at some point and I'm curious how much I should budget for
> this. I'd expect to need to adjust the dropout spacing, but will I
> need to use a claw or add any brazed-on eyelets or the like? That might
> be a bit too much.
>
> Anyone have experiencing upgrading one of these bikes? Is it possible
> to use most modern parts or are there measurement issues (french vs.
> standard, etc) that would prevent me from using shimano components and
> such?

Only issue is cost. I'd start by just swapping out the freewheel and
chain for the modern hyperglide stuff. No spreading necessary, and
it'll shift marvelously compared to the old simple "twist-tooth"
design.

If you want to blow the bank with a new rear wheel/freehub, cassette,
shifters/brifters, and so on, yeah, it'll work just fine.

TBH, though, a six speed freewheel that's a 14-28 is plenty for most
recreational riding, as all you gain with most 8spd or 9spd cassettes
are a couple smaller cogs that are rarely useful.

If you want indexing with the old wheel/new freewheel, you can just
search around a bit for some 6 spd Shimano SIS downtube or barend
shifters. I personally wouldn't bother.

 

[sodaquad]

I bought a mid-80s Galaxy frame a while back and have built it up into
a nice bike. You're getting a hand made Reynolds 531ST frame with a
very long wheel base. It's wonderful to ride, very sure-footed.
Modernisation was fairly straight forward, but there are some quirks.

To go to 9 speed you will need a 9-speed cassette, which will require a
suitable hub, so you will need new wheels. You will need 9-speed
shifters and a narrow chain. As far as I know most Shimano mechs can
handle 9-speed even if they were designed for 7 or 8.

It has been my intention to go to 9-speed but I am still using some
cheap wheels off my old bike so I am limited to 7-speed for now.
Because of this the current set-up is an odd mix:

Old Stuff:
Cheap alloy wheels
7 speed freewheel 13-24
Nexave rear mech (found in a street market for next to nothing, not
exactly bike-bling but very effective)

New Stuff:
Stronglight Impact chainset 24-36-48 (same as a Sugino XD)
LX front mech (handles the 24 tooth front difference just fine)
DuraAce bar end shifters (from eBay), 9 speed but in friction mode
right now.

The next step might be to go to 9 speed. The Nexave mech is nominally 7
or 8 speed, but should handle 9 speed OK, it has the same spacing. The
trouble is that [1] the gears I have cover my needs and I'm not sure
that I actually need any more and [2] the cheap wheels do the job, and
it's not clear that I can justify a new rear wheel just to take a 9
speed cassette. I'm waiting until the spokes break or something, so
that I have an excuse. Could be a long wait.

As for measurement issues:

[1] All the threads are standard English. No problems with the headset
(I used a Stronglight A9) or the bottom bracket (more Stronglight).

[2] The rear drop out spacing was 126mm, which I have opened out to
130mm.

[3] The brake bosses are about 12mm too low for modern cantilevers on
700C wheels. At first I wondered if it had been set up for strange
wheels but I have been told that many touring bikes from the mid-80s
use an odd, long reach cantilever made by DiaComp. They are
unobtainable now and I ended up using Onza HO brakes which can be
modified to reach. The only other alternative would be to have the
bosses moved by a frame builder.

- Simon

 

[Art Harris]

ethan wrote:
>
> I'm thinking of purchasing a used, mid-80s Dawes Galaxy in great
> condition. I'll probably want to upgrade to rear deraileur to indexed
> shifting at some point and I'm curious how much I should budget for
> this.

The biggest variable would be what type and model shifters you choose.
Most expensive would be Dura Ace STI or Record Ergo. Next would be
lower level STI/Ergo. Then bar end shifters. Least expensive would be
down tube indexed shifters.

Aside from that, the biggest expense would be a new rear wheel. You'll
also need a new chain and cassette, and probably front and rear
deraileurs.

See:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#up7

> I'd expect to need to adjust the dropout spacing, but will I
> need to use a claw or add any brazed-on eyelets or the like? That might
> be a bit too much.
>
Most of the better frames of the '80s had threaded derailleur hangers
on the right dropout. I'd be surprised if yours didn't.
>
> Anyone have experiencing upgrading one of these bikes? Is it possible
> to use most modern parts or are there measurement issues (french vs.
> standard, etc) that would prevent me from using shimano components and
> such?
>
I assume your Dawes has all standard British thread so there shouldn't
be a problem. If you decide to replace the brakes, check the reach.

Art Harris

 

[Nigel Cliffe]

ethan wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I'm thinking of purchasing a used, mid-80s Dawes Galaxy in great
> condition. I'll probably want to upgrade to rear deraileur to indexed
> shifting at some point and I'm curious how much I should budget for
> this. I'd expect to need to adjust the dropout spacing, but will I
> need to use a claw or add any brazed-on eyelets or the like? That
> might be a bit too much.
>
> Anyone have experiencing upgrading one of these bikes? Is it possible
> to use most modern parts or are there measurement issues (french vs.
> standard, etc) that would prevent me from using shimano components and
> such?

Beyond what the other posters have said, two other things to watch:

Frame spacing. It might be built to 126mm rather than the current 130mm. Not
a problem, you just need to ease the rear forks outwards when inserting a
modern 130mm wheel. After a few tries you get the hang of it.
The frame will easily spring that far; I've been riding a very similar
specification frame for 16 years and springing in/out a 130mm axle without
any ill effects.

Wheel size. Possibly old enough to be built around a 27inch (ISO 630) wheel,
rather than the current 700c (ISO 622). That, in turn, might mean the
brakes won't reach a 700c wheel. Shouldn't be a killer on any upgrade, but
watch for it.


It should be British for bottom bracket, and metric elsewhere. Should be
possible to fit modern stuff if that is your aim.
I'd probably only go to bar-ends (or downtube shifters if your reach is OK)
and 8-speed (rather than STI and 9/10 speed), with a triple front, to be in
keeping with the "ultra reliable" nature of the original. With 8 speed you
can probably keep the original front shift mechanism.




- Nigel



--
Nigel Cliffe,
Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/

 

[ethan]

Thanks to you all for the excelent information. It was exactly what I
wanted and I decided that I wanted to pick up the bike. Unfortunately I
waited too long and it was already gone!