UK and Europe · Public discussion

Wobbly Hub

Started by Keith Willoughb · · Last activity · 43 posts · 1,670 views

Thread navigation

Jump through the discussion

Go to the original post, the replies on this page, or the latest preserved contribution.

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
UK and Europe
Published
2 June 2004
Last activity
4 June 2004
Original author
Keith Willoughb
Posts
43
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
1,670
Views / 30 days
0

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 1–20 of 43
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. You might remember me mentioning a rear hub with play in it
    last week. I finally got round to taking it to my LBS -
    Tongwynlais Cyclecare. After the last time I went there, I
    swore I wouldn't go again. I've been there twice, I spend
    money twice, but I got the feeling he thought he was doing
    me a favour. Very brusque, not friendly, not forthcoming.

    I decided to back anyway - it's 6 miles away, the next
    nearest is probably more like 9 or 10, and I at least knew
    how to get to this one.

    I went in, told him what the problem was, and asked him to
    adjust the cone. He told me he'd have to strip it down to
    find out the problem. Fair enough, I thought. I'd rather he
    just tightened it a bit to see if that worked, but his way
    was the right way to go. He then told me that if there was a
    problem in the hub, it wouldn't go back together. So, I
    asked - what's the worst case? If there's a problem with the
    cup, I'd have to get a new hub or a new wheel? "I'll have to
    look inside to find out". Yeah, I reply, but what else could
    be wrong? Could you replace the cone? If it doesn't go back
    together, I've got no way to get home other than carrying a
    dead bike. "That's the way it is", he replies rather
    sarkily. "I'm not doing half a job".

    So, I left. This time, I'm *definitely* not going back.
    Tongwynlais Cyclecare, people. Not recommended.

    So, I still have a wobbly hub. If it needs stripping, I
    might as well do it myself, I guess. At least if it's
    broken, I won't have to walk home 🙂

    I have Zinn to guide me, but just to check with you lot -
    what do I need?

    A couple of cone spanners (or would one cone spanner and an
    adjustable do?). Are there any clever ways I can find out
    what size spanner I need, rather than trying to find a ruler
    and measuring it, with all the innacuracy involved there?

    Grease.

    A casette removing tool? How do I find out what kind I need?
    Hell, how do I tell a casette from a free-wheel type? (It's
    a ~5 year old Giant MTB, 7 speed cogs)

    A chain whip? Or am I barking up the wrong tree with that?

    Anything else?

    --
    Keith Willoughby flat222.orgkeith "And we were
    singing hymns and arias"

  2. Keith Willoughby said:

    So, I left. This time, I'm *definitely* not going back.
    Tongwynlais Cyclecare, people. Not recommended.

    You are not the only one. I read with great interest a
    thread all about this shop on the Cycling Plus forum. I
    can't find it now, though. Will post it when I find it --
    actually it's very funny -- you should only go there when
    there's a hat in the shop window!

  3. Here:

    cyclingplus.co.uktopic.asp
    OPIC_ID=17887&SearchTerms=tongwynlais

    Read it to the end to find out about the mysterious hat!

  4. Sorry, it's this one:

    mtb-mtb-
    wales.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=XForum&file=viewthrea-
    d&tid=2017#pid27096

    Simon

  5. Simonb said:
    Keith Willoughby said:

    So, I left. This time, I'm *definitely* not going back.
    Tongwynlais Cyclecare, people. Not recommended.

    You are not the only one. I read with great interest a
    thread all about this shop on the Cycling Plus forum. I
    can't find it now, though. Will post it when I find it

    Yeah, please do. I'm glad to see it's not just me.

    I bought my clipless pedals and shoes down in Reg
    Braddick's, in Cardiff. The service in there was absolutely
    first class, and I thanked the guy and told him he was
    nothing like "the miserable git" in Tongwynlais. He snorted,
    I asked him if he knew the other guy, he said "no, but I've
    heard of him".

    Quoted message said:

    -- actually it's very funny -- you should only go there
    when there's a hat in the shop window!

    !!

    --
    Keith Willoughby flat222.orgkeith
    Speicherzugriffsfehler

  6. Simonb said:

    Sorry, it's this one:

    mtb-mtb-
    wales.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=XForum&file=viewthr-
    ead&tid=2017#pid27096

    Ha! Yup, exactly my experiences. I'll have to look out for
    the hat . . .

    They're right about the thousands of quids worth of bikes
    going past his shop, too. I've seen several people in MTB
    gear, Camelbaks, and very expensive-looking full-sus bikes
    going past, presumably up to Castell Coch. (One of them did
    some very impressive-but-posy jumps over the many speed-
    humps through the village)

    --
    Keith Willoughby flat222.orgkeith Husker Du Du Du,
    Captain Beefheart, ELO

  7. Keith Willoughby:

    Quoted message said:

    So, I still have a wobbly hub. If it needs stripping, I
    might as well do it myself, I guess.

    I was surprised at how easy a job it turned out to be when I
    did it. The thing to remember is when you remove the axle,
    be careful not to lose any bearings that may fall out.

    Quoted message said:

    A couple of cone spanners (or would one cone spanner and
    an adjustable do?).

    I managed it without cone spanners. Not ideal though. Aside
    from simple trial-and-error, I'm afraid I don't know how you
    work out what size spanner you need. You should be OK with
    just one spanner though - You won't be able to use a second
    spanner anyway since you'll need one hand free to stop the
    axle rotating.

    Quoted message said:

    Grease.

    Yup. Others know more about this than me, but I use a
    standard all-purpose grease with teflon. Make sure you
    don't put too much grease in the bearing races or it will
    just ooze out all over the place when you put the wheel
    back together.

    Quoted message said:

    A casette removing tool?

    You won't need to remove the cassette to service the hub. I
    think. Maybe it depends on the wheel. I managed to service
    my rear wheel without removing the freewheel. It was a bit
    fiddly reaching inside to clean and grease the bearing
    track but not actually difficult. I think with freehubs the
    bearings are closer to the end of the axle, making it
    easier still.

    Quoted message said:

    How do I find out what kind I need?

    They are standard shapes. You need to look at the shape of
    the inner perimeter of the locknut to work out which tool
    you need. More info here, including pictures to help you
    correctly identify what you've got - chances are it's a
    shimano hyperglide:
    <URL:http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQcogs.shtml>

    And here are their instructions on hub servicing - again,
    with pictures:
    <URL:http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/howfix_hub.shtml>

    d.

  8. me:

    Quoted message said:

    You won't need to remove the cassette to service the hub.
    I think. Maybe


    it

    Quoted message said:

    depends on the wheel.

    I just noticed the Park site says you *do* need to remove
    the cassette to service a freehub type wheel.

    d.

  9. davek said:

    Keith Willoughby:

    Quoted message said:

    So, I still have a wobbly hub. If it needs stripping, I
    might as well do it myself, I guess.

    I was surprised at how easy a job it turned out to be
    when I did it. The thing to remember is when you remove
    the axle, be careful not to lose any bearings that may
    fall out.

    Indeed..

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    A couple of cone spanners (or would one cone spanner and
    an adjustable do?).

    I managed it without cone spanners. Not ideal though.
    Aside from simple trial-and-error, I'm afraid I don't know
    how you work out what size spanner you need.

    Cone spanners are well worth it. Don't buy the cheap ones
    which are [censored]. The shimano ones or the park ones are great.

    Quoted message said:

    You should be OK with just one spanner though - You won't
    be able to use a second spanner anyway since you'll need
    one hand free to stop the axle rotating.

    don't understand this at all. One spanner one side of the
    wheel, one the other. No bother. You should only need to
    undo one side. I find it easier to do the non-cassette side.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Grease

    Quoted message said:

    Yup. Others know more about this than me, but I use a
    standard all-purpose grease with teflon. Make sure you
    don't put too much grease in the bearing races or it will
    just ooze out all over the place when you put the wheel
    back together.

    When you have removed all the balls and the axle, clean out
    the bearing races. Check the axle to see if it is bent. Look
    at the bearing races to see if they are pitted (on cones and
    cups). Then put a thick smear of grease in the bearing cups
    and the balls should stick to this while you put the axle
    in. Don't worry about putting too much grease in, the more
    the merrier (and messier).

    Bear in mind that some greases contain compounds that should
    not have skin contact for prolonged periods. Cleanliness is
    next to godliness.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    A casette removing tool?


    Won't need it. Don't need to take the cassette off.

    ..d

  10. David Martin:

    Quoted message said:

    don't understand this at all. One spanner one side of the
    wheel, one the other. No bother.

    Maybe it's just me, but I found that when I tried to turn
    the cone, the whole axle assembly turned, so I had to hold
    the axle itself while I unscrewed the cone.

    Quoted message said:

    You should only need to undo one side. I find it easier to
    do the non-cassette side.

    Indeed. Leaving one cone in situ also helps when putting
    everything back together - no need to worry about getting
    the spacing right.

    d.

  11. davek said:

    David Martin:

    Cheers fellas!

    Anyone know if Halfords sell decent cone spanners? As I'm
    boycotting obnoxious LBS, Halfords is now the easiest
    place to go.

    --
    Keith Willoughby flat222.orgkeith Votad Al
    Frente Popular

  12. davek said:

    me:

    Quoted message said:

    You won't need to remove the cassette to service the hub.
    I think. Maybe


    it

    Quoted message said:

    depends on the wheel.

    I just noticed the Park site says you *do* need to remove
    the cassette to service a freehub type wheel.

    Only if you are fully servicing it (ie freehub bearings),
    not to just do the axle and bearings.

    Either that or I just do magic because I don't need to take
    the cassette off.

    ..d

  13. davek said:
    Quoted message said:

    don't understand this at all. One spanner one side of the
    wheel, one the other. No bother.

    Maybe it's just me, but I found that when I tried to turn
    the cone, the whole axle assembly turned, so I had to hold
    the axle itself while I unscrewed the cone.

    Cone spanner on cone. Other spanner on lock nut. No worries.

    Then when they are loose, spanner on tight cone/locknut,
    turn the loose oens off with the other spanner.

    ..d

  14. On 2/6/04 1:50 pm, in article [email hidden], "Keith

    Willoughby said:
    davek said:

    David Martin:

    Cheers fellas!

    Anyone know if Halfords sell decent cone spanners? As I'm
    boycotting obnoxious LBS, Halfords is now the easiest
    place to go.

    Only if they are teh Park or shimano ones. The cheap ones I
    had (that were a waste of money and totally useless) were
    from Halfords in about 1990ish.

    Wiggle do the Park ones. You can get away with just one,
    though I prefer to have two. At a guess you should get the
    13-14mm one, though getting both the 13-14 and 15-16 (one of
    each) will cover you.

    ..d

  15. Keith Willoughby said:

    I have Zinn to guide me, but just to check with you lot -
    what do I need?

    A couple of cone spanners (or would one cone spanner and
    an adjustable do?). Are there any clever ways I can find
    out what size spanner I need, rather than trying to find
    a ruler and measuring it, with all the innacuracy
    involved there?

    Keith, get a pair of cone spanners from Mike Dyasons (not
    expensive), plus two ordinary spanners that fit your
    locknuts. Adjustable spanner(s) can be used intead but it's
    much easier with normal spanners. See Sheldon Brown's
    instructions (and clever tricks on using two spanners of the
    same size simultanously) for adjusting cones. They work!

    These particular cone spanners have multi sizes - they're
    bound to suit. Get a set of basic spanners for the
    locknuts. One of them hopefully will fit, then buy another
    single spanner or use an adjustable one in addition. They
    will be metric.

    Sorry I haven't got time for providing URLs now. Google!
    Good luck!

    Quoted message said:

    Grease.

    Ordinary waterproof general purpose grease will do, or get
    some bike brand from another bike shop or Halfrauds.

    Quoted message said:

    A casette removing tool? How do I find out what kind I
    need? Hell, how do I tell a casette from a free-wheel
    type? (It's a ~5 year old Giant MTB, 7 speed cogs)

    See Sheldon brown for distinguising them. Get chainwhip and
    cassette remover from Dyason's (the one type they have suits
    Shimano), but if freewheel, you'll need a different tool and
    a lot of force. A vice helps. Could instead get a bike shop
    to remove it for you, then do rest of work yourself.

    Quoted message said:

    A chain whip? Or am I barking up the wrong tree with that?

    Needed to remove cassette only (not freewheel).

    Quoted message said:


    Anything else?

    That'll do I think.

    ~PB

  16. David Martin said:

    On 2/6/04 1:50 pm, in article
    [email hidden], "Keith Willoughby"

    Quoted message said:


    Anyone know if Halfords sell decent cone spanners? As I'm
    boycotting obnoxious LBS, Halfords is now the easiest
    place to go.

    Only if they are teh Park or shimano ones. The cheap ones
    I had (that were a waste of money and totally useless)
    were from Halfords in about 1990ish.

    Ah, OK. I might take a wander over anyway.

    Quoted message said:

    Wiggle do the Park ones. You can get away with just one,
    though I prefer to have two. At a guess you should get the
    13-14mm one, though getting both the 13-14 and 15-16 (one
    of each) will cover you.

    I just found some crappy spanners, and it appears that it's
    a 15mm. (The 14 is too small. The 15 would be the right size
    if the spanner wasn't so crappy)

    If Halfords doesn't have good ones, I'll get a 13/15 or
    15/16 from Wiggle. I can use an adjustable for the
    locknut, I guess.

    --
    Keith Willoughby flat222.orgkeith What ain't we
    got? We ain't got mates

  17. "David Martin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    On 2/6/04 1:50 pm, in article
    [email hidden], "Keith Willoughby"

    Quoted message said:
    davek said:

    David Martin:

    Cheers fellas!

    Anyone know if Halfords sell decent cone spanners? As
    I'm boycotting


    obnoxious

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    LBS, Halfords is now the easiest place to go.

    Only if they are teh Park or shimano ones. The cheap ones
    I had (that were a waste of money and totally useless)
    were from Halfords in about 1990ish.

    Halfords do sell the Park stuff.

    Quoted message said:

    Wiggle do the Park ones. You can get away with just one,
    though I prefer to have two. At a guess you should get the
    13-14mm one, though getting both the 13-14 and 15-16 (one
    of each) will cover you.

    Park used to do a set of two identical spanners, on one end
    a 13/15 and the other a 14/16. They work well.
    --
    Mark South: World Citizen, Net Denizen

  18. On 2/6/04 3:23 pm, in article [email hidden], "Keith

    Willoughby said:

    I just found some crappy spanners, and it appears that
    it's a 15mm. (The 14 is too small. The 15 would be the
    right size if the spanner wasn't so crappy)

    Use the crappy spanner for the locknut (should be 15mm) and
    the shiny new cone spanner for the cone. Adjustables are the
    produce of stan (though I have a number of them up to 18"
    stilsons. Not quite as bad as my dad who has some 30"
    stilsons. ouch!)

    ..d

  19. "David Martin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    On 2/6/04 3:23 pm, in article
    [email hidden], "Keith Willoughby"

    Quoted message said:

    I just found some crappy spanners, and it appears that
    it's a 15mm. (The 14 is too small. The 15 would be the
    right size if the spanner wasn't so crappy)

    Use the crappy spanner for the locknut (should be 15mm)
    and the shiny new cone spanner for the cone.

    Correct.

    Quoted message said:

    Adjustables are the produce of stan

    Not well-made ones. Look at those made by Bahco sometime.
    --
    Mark South: World Citizen, Net Denizen, Tool User

  20. Keith Willoughby <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    I went in, told him what the problem was, and asked him to
    adjust the cone. He told me he'd have to strip it down to
    find out the problem. Fair enough, I thought. I'd rather
    he just tightened it a bit to see if that worked, but his
    way was the right way to go. He then told me that if there
    was a problem in the hub, it wouldn't go back together.

    How could it not go back together? If you bring a rideable
    wheel to a decent bike mechanic he should be able to get
    inside the hub and at least put it back into a similarly
    rideable mode for you, no matter what horror stories he
    finds inside. (Short of needing an oxy-acetylene torch to
    get inside it.) You really do need to learn to service your
    own wheels to free yourself from this sort of nonsense.

    --
    Dave...

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.