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Broken Open Pro rim

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Cycling Equipment
Published
17 October 2007
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29 October 2007
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  1. _ said:
    Ben C said:
    _ said:

    On Fri, 19 Oct 2007 20:13:22 -0600, [email hidden] wrote:


    [...]

    Quoted message said:

    >>> It does seem odd that rim cracked around the spokes with less initial
    >>> tension.
    >>>
    >>> If they lost all tension (rattling loose), would impact be a possible
    >>> explanation?
    >>>
    >>> That is, the higher-tension drive-side spokes just see tension falling
    >>> and rising smoothly, but the lower-tension non-drive-side spokes might
    >>> be loose enough that they go bang-bang-bang against the rim as they
    >>> lose all tension momentairly and then reseat.
    >>>
    >>> The distance involved must be tiny, but it's still an impact rather
    >>> than just tension rising and falling while the spoke nipples stay in
    >>> contact with the rim.
    >>>
    >>
    >>I rather suspect were that the case, the wheel would go out of true long,
    >>LONG before the non-drive side cracks appeared. As the orignal poster
    >>seems completely capable of determining which spokes are on the drive and
    >>non-drive side, he would be extremely unlikely to have failed to notice the
    >>lack of truth.
    >
    > Dear _,
    >
    > Why would the rim go out of true before the rim cracks appeared if the
    > non-drive-side spokes go completely slack?
    >
    > (I don't know if they were in fact going slack, I'm just wondering
    > what might cause the more lightly tensioned spokes to crack the rim.)
    >
    > Nipples unscrewing?
    >

    Got it in one, you clever boy.

    They don't necessarily unscrew though. OP used oil, not linseed or
    threadlock, but even so, things can get gummed up or stick a bit.

    Any "hammering" sufficient to cause rim cracking would loosen gummed up
    threads long before rim cracking.

    Dear _,

    Really? My experience is different.

    I once stopped after about 80 miles on a flat rear motorcycle tire in
    Baja and used LocTite on lots of loosened spokes.

    The spokes held fine for the next 100 miles, when the tire bead came
    out and halted the proceedings.

    I suspect that the hammering on the rocky road was far more than any
    bicycle rim would survive.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

  2. Jambo said:

    "jim beam" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    cracking from tension being "too low", as is the case with non-drive
    spokes, is like expecting an old campy record crank to fatigue when all
    it's doing is propping up a wall in the garage.

    Great, non-drive sidespokes = unused crank. Brilliant idiocy yet again from
    beamboy.

    Quoted message said:

    i'm waiting for the pics.

    Yeah, and let's hope he doesn't use sticky tape to position his Park
    tensiometer in place.

    you're bearing false witness. or is there some kind of moron exemption
    for that commandment?

  3. Quoted message said:
    _ said:
    Ben C said:

    On 2007-10-20, _ <[email hidden]> wrote:
    > On Fri, 19 Oct 2007 20:13:22 -0600, [email hidden] wrote:
    [...]
    >>>> It does seem odd that rim cracked around the spokes with less initial
    >>>> tension.
    >>>>
    >>>> If they lost all tension (rattling loose), would impact be a possible
    >>>> explanation?
    >>>>
    >>>> That is, the higher-tension drive-side spokes just see tension falling
    >>>> and rising smoothly, but the lower-tension non-drive-side spokes might
    >>>> be loose enough that they go bang-bang-bang against the rim as they
    >>>> lose all tension momentairly and then reseat.
    >>>>
    >>>> The distance involved must be tiny, but it's still an impact rather
    >>>> than just tension rising and falling while the spoke nipples stay in
    >>>> contact with the rim.
    >>>>
    >>>
    >>>I rather suspect were that the case, the wheel would go out of true long,
    >>>LONG before the non-drive side cracks appeared. As the orignal poster
    >>>seems completely capable of determining which spokes are on the drive and
    >>>non-drive side, he would be extremely unlikely to have failed to notice the
    >>>lack of truth.
    >>
    >> Dear _,
    >>
    >> Why would the rim go out of true before the rim cracks appeared if the
    >> non-drive-side spokes go completely slack?
    >>
    >> (I don't know if they were in fact going slack, I'm just wondering
    >> what might cause the more lightly tensioned spokes to crack the rim.)
    >>
    >> Nipples unscrewing?
    >>
    >
    > Got it in one, you clever boy.

    They don't necessarily unscrew though. OP used oil, not linseed or
    threadlock, but even so, things can get gummed up or stick a bit.

    Any "hammering" sufficient to cause rim cracking would loosen gummed up
    threads long before rim cracking.

    Dear _,

    Really? My experience is different.

    I once stopped after about 80 miles on a flat rear motorcycle tire in
    Baja and used LocTite on lots of loosened spokes.

    Your "gum" was different too.

  4. email hidden said:

    One of my rear Open Pro wheels succumbed to the cracks around eyelets
    problem. 32 spoke. DT 14/15 gauge. Brass nipples. 3 cross both
    sides. 1998 Chorus hub. Wheel was built Fall 2001 with new rim and
    spokes. Original rim broke in a crash in Spring 2001. Thousands and
    thousands of miles on the wheel. All of the cracks are on the non
    drive side eyelets. Seems odd since the non drive side spokes have
    the least tension. Several of the non drive side eyelets have short
    cracks extending out from them. One of the eyelets has long cracks
    from it. And the sides of the rim around that eyelet also have cracks
    in it. Pretty soon I would expect that 2 inch section of rim to be
    pulled completely away.

    I'm going to rebuild the wheel with a new Open Pro rim I already own.
    I know the spokes will fit. I plan to reuse the spokes since they
    seem strong enough to rip apart the rim without breaking. And have
    lasted thousands and thousands of miles.

    Dear Russell,

    Here are the pictures:

    Rim1-1.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/9rk288.jpg

    Rim1-2.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2lj2slh.jpg

    Rim1-3.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2ebzl92.jpg

    Rim1-4.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/20hvwaw.jpg

    Rim1-5.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/idzr0w.jpg

    Rim1-6.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2pqri53.jpg

    Rim2.JPG http://i24.tinypic.com/2f03ek8.jpg

    Rim3.JPG http://i21.tinypic.com/2rxk18w.jpg

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

  5. Quoted message said:

    On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 11:25:53 -0700, "[email hidden]"

    Quoted message said:

    One of my rear Open Pro wheels succumbed to the cracks around eyelets
    problem. 32 spoke. DT 14/15 gauge. Brass nipples. 3 cross both
    sides. 1998 Chorus hub. Wheel was built Fall 2001 with new rim and
    spokes. Original rim broke in a crash in Spring 2001. Thousands and
    thousands of miles on the wheel. All of the cracks are on the non
    drive side eyelets. Seems odd since the non drive side spokes have
    the least tension. Several of the non drive side eyelets have short
    cracks extending out from them. One of the eyelets has long cracks
    from it. And the sides of the rim around that eyelet also have cracks
    in it. Pretty soon I would expect that 2 inch section of rim to be
    pulled completely away.

    Quoted message said:

    I'm going to rebuild the wheel with a new Open Pro rim I already own.
    I know the spokes will fit. I plan to reuse the spokes since they
    seem strong enough to rip apart the rim without breaking. And have
    lasted thousands and thousands of miles.

    Dear Russell,

    Here are the pictures:

    Rim1-1.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/9rk288.jpg

    Rim1-2.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2lj2slh.jpg

    Rim1-3.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2ebzl92.jpg

    Rim1-4.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/20hvwaw.jpg

    Rim1-5.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/idzr0w.jpg

    Rim1-6.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2pqri53.jpg

    Rim2.JPG http://i24.tinypic.com/2f03ek8.jpg

    Rim3.JPG http://i21.tinypic.com/2rxk18w.jpg

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel- Hide quoted text -

    - Show quoted text -

    Thanks Carl. My computer is blocking access to the tinypic site but
    I'll assume others can see the pictures. There are pictures of three
    eyelets with cracks around them. There are a couple other eyelets on
    the wheel that had smaller cracks I did not take pictures of. All
    cracks around the eyelets are on the NON DRIVE side of the rear wheel.

    Biggest cracks are on Rim1-# pictures. 6 pictures total. From both
    sides of the rim. This is at 9 o'clock position on the rim when
    looking from the drive side and valve stem is at 12 o'clock.

    Rim2 and Rim3 are at 1 o'clock and 5 o'clock on the rim when looking
    from the drive side and valve stem is 12 o'clock. These pictures were
    taken from the drive side of the rim. Cracks are on NON DRIVE side
    eyelets.

    Rear Open Pro rim. 32 spoke. 3 cross both sides. DT 14/15 gauge
    spokes. Brass nipples. 1998 Campagnolo Chorus rear hub. Built by me
    Fall of 2002 I think. Rear hub has seen three rims so far. This rim
    was brand new, never used, never laced, bought from Performance Bike.
    I broke One of the non drive side spokes on Friday evening's ride at
    the elbow.

  6. On 2007-10-22, [email hidden] <[email hidden]> wrote:
    [...]

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Here are the pictures:

    Rim1-1.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/9rk288.jpg
    Rim1-2.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2lj2slh.jpg
    Rim1-3.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2ebzl92.jpg
    Rim1-4.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/20hvwaw.jpg
    Rim1-5.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/idzr0w.jpg
    Rim1-6.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2pqri53.jpg
    Rim2.JPG http://i24.tinypic.com/2f03ek8.jpg
    Rim3.JPG http://i21.tinypic.com/2rxk18w.jpg

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel- Hide quoted text -

    - Show quoted text -

    Thanks Carl. My computer is blocking access to the tinypic site but
    I'll assume others can see the pictures.

    Yes, I can see them OK.

    Fatigue is supposed to start at an imperfection somewhere and then
    spread from there. Those extra cracks on the wall make this look like
    "trauma" rather than fatigue-- as though the wheel suddenly got a very
    high side load or something.

  7. Carl Fogel said:
    Quoted message said:

    One of my rear Open Pro wheels succumbed to the cracks around
    eyelets problem. 32 spoke. DT 14/15 gauge. Brass nipples. 3
    cross both sides. 1998 Chorus hub. Wheel was built Fall 2001 with
    new rim and spokes. Original rim broke in a crash in Spring 2001.
    Thousands and thousands of miles on the wheel. All of the cracks
    are on the non drive side eyelets. Seems odd since the non drive
    side spokes have the least tension. Several of the non drive side
    eyelets have short cracks extending out from them. One of the
    eyelets has long cracks from it. And the sides of the rim around
    that eyelet also have cracks in it. Pretty soon I would expect
    that 2 inch section of rim to be pulled completely away.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I'm going to rebuild the wheel with a new Open Pro rim I already
    own. I know the spokes will fit. I plan to reuse the spokes since
    they seem strong enough to rip apart the rim without breaking. And
    have lasted thousands and thousands of miles.

    Quoted message said:

    Here are the pictures:

    Quoted message said:

    Rim1-1.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/9rk288.jpg

    Quoted message said:

    Rim1-2.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2lj2slh.jpg

    Quoted message said:

    Rim1-3.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2ebzl92.jpg

    Quoted message said:

    Rim1-4.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/20hvwaw.jpg

    Quoted message said:

    Rim1-5.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/idzr0w.jpg

    Quoted message said:

    Rim1-6.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2pqri53.jpg

    Quoted message said:

    Rim2.JPG http://i24.tinypic.com/2f03ek8.jpg

    Quoted message said:

    Rim3.JPG http://i21.tinypic.com/2rxk18w.jpg

    With the frequency of reports of cracking rims, I can only deduce that
    these are not socketed rims. In all the years of riding various rims,
    from Mavic, Fiamme, Ambrosio, Super Champion and the like, I never saw
    a cracked rim until Mavic began hard anodizing their rims... and
    subsequently when they ceased using sockets and used only eyelets to
    support spoke loads on one wall of the rim. You'll not that a socket
    distributes spoke loads to more than 9x the area of an eyelet alone.

    http://tinyurl.com/2zr7k7

    Spoke-prep was invented to allow building with low spoke tension, but
    not low enough to prevent cracking.

    http://tinyurl.com/22h8h3

    Jobst Brandt

  8. Ben C? said:

    [...]

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Here are the pictures:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Rim1-1.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/9rk288.jpg
    Rim1-2.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2lj2slh.jpg
    Rim1-3.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2ebzl92.jpg
    Rim1-4.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/20hvwaw.jpg
    Rim1-5.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/idzr0w.jpg
    Rim1-6.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2pqri53.jpg
    Rim2.JPG http://i24.tinypic.com/2f03ek8.jpg
    Rim3.JPG http://i21.tinypic.com/2rxk18w.jpg

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Thanks Carl. My computer is blocking access to the tinypic site
    but I'll assume others can see the pictures.

    Quoted message said:

    Yes, I can see them OK.

    Quoted message said:

    Fatigue is supposed to start at an imperfection somewhere and then
    spread from there. Those extra cracks on the wall make this look
    like "trauma" rather than fatigue-- as though the wheel suddenly got
    a very high side load or something.

    By trauma you mean forced rupture in contrast to fatigue. Forced
    rupture leaves a smeared (sheared) crack in contrast to these cracks
    that are classically jagged fatigue cracks. I must assume that the
    wheel was spoked with the rim left-to-right reversed at some point and
    that cracking was initiated on a rear wheel at that time.

    Once a crack starts, it can grow under reduced load, such as on the
    left side of a rear wheel where tension is roughly half of that ton
    the right side.

    Jobst Brandt

  9. On 2007-10-22, [email hidden] <[email hidden]> wrote:
    [...]

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Here are the pictures:

    Quoted message said:

    Rim1-1.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/9rk288.jpg
    Rim1-2.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2lj2slh.jpg
    Rim1-3.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2ebzl92.jpg
    Rim1-4.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/20hvwaw.jpg
    Rim1-5.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/idzr0w.jpg
    Rim1-6.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2pqri53.jpg
    Rim2.JPG http://i24.tinypic.com/2f03ek8.jpg
    Rim3.JPG http://i21.tinypic.com/2rxk18w.jpg

    With the frequency of reports of cracking rims, I can only deduce that
    these are not socketed rims.

    No, they are socketed. OP said this was an Open Pro.

    In fact I wonder if those secondary cracks (the ones appearing on the
    sides of the rim, above the brake track as they appear in the pictures)
    are somehow the result of the whole socket being wrenched sideways.

  10. Quoted message said:
    Ben C? said:

    [...]

    Quoted message said:

    > Here are the pictures:
    > Rim1-1.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/9rk288.jpg
    > Rim1-2.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2lj2slh.jpg
    > Rim1-3.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2ebzl92.jpg
    > Rim1-4.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/20hvwaw.jpg
    > Rim1-5.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/idzr0w.jpg
    > Rim1-6.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2pqri53.jpg
    > Rim2.JPG http://i24.tinypic.com/2f03ek8.jpg
    > Rim3.JPG http://i21.tinypic.com/2rxk18w.jpg
    Thanks Carl. My computer is blocking access to the tinypic site
    but I'll assume others can see the pictures.


    Yes, I can see them OK.
    Fatigue is supposed to start at an imperfection somewhere and then
    spread from there. Those extra cracks on the wall make this look
    like "trauma" rather than fatigue-- as though the wheel suddenly got
    a very high side load or something.

    By trauma you mean forced rupture in contrast to fatigue. Forced
    rupture leaves a smeared (sheared) crack in contrast to these cracks
    that are classically jagged fatigue cracks. I must assume that the
    wheel was spoked with the rim left-to-right reversed at some point and
    that cracking was initiated on a rear wheel at that time.

    If by this you mean the rim was laced one way and then this rim was
    reversed and relaced, NO. This rim was laced once and kept that way
    until now. I sure as heck have not rebuilt a wheel using an old rim.
    I build a wheel with a rim and it stays built until the rim dies. I
    don't have enough time or energy in my day to rebuild wheels for the
    fun of it unless the rim needs to be replaced. At that point I'll
    also decide if the spokes can be reused or not.

    As for trauma causing that one eyelet to delelop the side cracks, not
    that I recall. Cracks at the eyelet are just like the cracks at the
    eyelets on the other two eyelets pictured. And a couple others I did
    not take pictures of. Just longer cracks at the one eyelet. I would
    think a trauma would bend the rim too. Rim appears unbent, just
    cracked at several eyelets.

    No spoke prep was ever used on this rim. Or any wheels I build. I'm
    too cheap to buy official spoke prep. I do use oil on the spoke
    threads and eyelets/nipples. Oil is cheap.

    Quoted message said:


    Once a crack starts, it can grow under reduced load, such as on the
    left side of a rear wheel where tension is roughly half of that ton
    the right side.

    Jobst Brandt- Hide quoted text -

    - Show quoted text -

  11. Quoted message said:
    Ben C? said:

    [...]

    Quoted message said:

    > Here are the pictures:
    > Rim1-1.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/9rk288.jpg
    > Rim1-2.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2lj2slh.jpg
    > Rim1-3.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2ebzl92.jpg
    > Rim1-4.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/20hvwaw.jpg
    > Rim1-5.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/idzr0w.jpg
    > Rim1-6.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2pqri53.jpg
    > Rim2.JPG http://i24.tinypic.com/2f03ek8.jpg
    > Rim3.JPG http://i21.tinypic.com/2rxk18w.jpg
    Thanks Carl. My computer is blocking access to the tinypic site
    but I'll assume others can see the pictures.


    Yes, I can see them OK.
    Fatigue is supposed to start at an imperfection somewhere and then
    spread from there. Those extra cracks on the wall make this look
    like "trauma" rather than fatigue-- as though the wheel suddenly got
    a very high side load or something.

    By trauma you mean forced rupture in contrast to fatigue. Forced
    rupture leaves a smeared (sheared) crack in contrast to these cracks
    that are classically jagged fatigue cracks. I must assume that the
    wheel was spoked with the rim left-to-right reversed at some point and
    that cracking was initiated on a rear wheel at that time.

    That was my first thought, as well. However, the OP says this was not
    the case.

    Quoted message said:


    Once a crack starts, it can grow under reduced load, such as on the
    left side of a rear wheel where tension is roughly half of that ton
    the right side.

    Jobst Brandt

  12. Ben C said:

    On 2007-10-22, [email hidden] <[email hidden]> wrote:
    [...]

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Here are the pictures:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Rim1-1.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/9rk288.jpg
    Rim1-2.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2lj2slh.jpg
    Rim1-3.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2ebzl92.jpg
    Rim1-4.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/20hvwaw.jpg
    Rim1-5.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/idzr0w.jpg
    Rim1-6.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2pqri53.jpg
    Rim2.JPG http://i24.tinypic.com/2f03ek8.jpg
    Rim3.JPG http://i21.tinypic.com/2rxk18w.jpg

    Fatigue is supposed to start at an imperfection somewhere and then
    spread from there. Those extra cracks on the wall make this look like
    "trauma" rather than fatigue-- as though the wheel suddenly got a very
    high side load or something.

    That doesn't really make sense. A momentary load usually
    either breaks something outright or causes a crack that then
    propagates through fatigue. It is very hard to see how a
    side load on a wheel could neatly initiate cracks right near the
    locations of several spokes on the rim wall.

    I think what you're seeing is that as the socket pulls through
    the rim, it's causing either the inmost surface or the lower box
    section to separate from the upper rim wall. I don't have any
    idea why this would happen on the non drive side either, though.

    Ben

  13. "jim beam" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Jambo said:

    "jim beam" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    cracking from tension being "too low", as is the case with non-drive
    spokes, is like expecting an old campy record crank to fatigue when all
    it's doing is propping up a wall in the garage.

    Great, non-drive sidespokes = unused crank. Brilliant idiocy yet again
    from beamboy.

    Quoted message said:

    i'm waiting for the pics.

    Yeah, and let's hope he doesn't use sticky tape to position his Park
    tensiometer in place.

    you're bearing false witness. or is there some kind of moron exemption
    for that commandment?

    Uh, sorry beamboy, did you use duct tape instead?

  14. Jambo said:

    "jim beam" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Jambo said:

    "jim beam" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...
    > cracking from tension being "too low", as is the case with non-drive
    > spokes, is like expecting an old campy record crank to fatigue when all
    > it's doing is propping up a wall in the garage.
    Great, non-drive sidespokes = unused crank. Brilliant idiocy yet again
    from beamboy.

    > i'm waiting for the pics.
    Yeah, and let's hope he doesn't use sticky tape to position his Park
    tensiometer in place.


    you're bearing false witness. or is there some kind of moron exemption
    for that commandment?

    Uh, sorry beamboy, did you use duct tape instead?

    Is not duct/duck tape sticky on one side?

    --
    Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
    Beer - It's not just for breakfast anymore!

  15. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 11:25:53 -0700, "[email hidden]"

    Quoted message said:

    One of my rear Open Pro wheels succumbed to the cracks around eyelets
    problem. 32 spoke. DT 14/15 gauge. Brass nipples. 3 cross both
    sides. 1998 Chorus hub. Wheel was built Fall 2001 with new rim and
    spokes. Original rim broke in a crash in Spring 2001. Thousands and
    thousands of miles on the wheel. All of the cracks are on the non
    drive side eyelets. Seems odd since the non drive side spokes have
    the least tension. Several of the non drive side eyelets have short
    cracks extending out from them. One of the eyelets has long cracks
    from it. And the sides of the rim around that eyelet also have cracks
    in it. Pretty soon I would expect that 2 inch section of rim to be
    pulled completely away.
    I'm going to rebuild the wheel with a new Open Pro rim I already own.
    I know the spokes will fit. I plan to reuse the spokes since they
    seem strong enough to rip apart the rim without breaking. And have
    lasted thousands and thousands of miles.


    Dear Russell,

    Here are the pictures:

    Rim1-1.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/9rk288.jpg

    Rim1-2.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2lj2slh.jpg

    Rim1-3.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2ebzl92.jpg

    Rim1-4.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/20hvwaw.jpg

    Rim1-5.JPG http://i22.tinypic.com/idzr0w.jpg

    Rim1-6.JPG http://i23.tinypic.com/2pqri53.jpg

    Rim2.JPG http://i24.tinypic.com/2f03ek8.jpg

    Rim3.JPG http://i21.tinypic.com/2rxk18w.jpg

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel- Hide quoted text -

    - Show quoted text -

    Thanks Carl. My computer is blocking access to the tinypic site but
    I'll assume others can see the pictures. There are pictures of three
    eyelets with cracks around them. There are a couple other eyelets on
    the wheel that had smaller cracks I did not take pictures of. All
    cracks around the eyelets are on the NON DRIVE side of the rear wheel.

    Biggest cracks are on Rim1-# pictures. 6 pictures total. From both
    sides of the rim. This is at 9 o'clock position on the rim when
    looking from the drive side and valve stem is at 12 o'clock.

    Rim2 and Rim3 are at 1 o'clock and 5 o'clock on the rim when looking
    from the drive side and valve stem is 12 o'clock. These pictures were
    taken from the drive side of the rim. Cracks are on NON DRIVE side
    eyelets.

    but you don't post a pic /showing/ that to be the case! you need
    another shot from further away showing the spoke at any crack connecting
    to the hub.

    they are excellent pics by the way, and classic over-tension.

    Quoted message said:


    Rear Open Pro rim. 32 spoke. 3 cross both sides. DT 14/15 gauge
    spokes. Brass nipples. 1998 Campagnolo Chorus rear hub. Built by me
    Fall of 2002 I think. Rear hub has seen three rims so far. This rim
    was brand new, never used, never laced, bought from Performance Bike.
    I broke One of the non drive side spokes on Friday evening's ride at
    the elbow.

  16. "Tom Sherman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Jambo said:

    "jim beam" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Jambo wrote:
    > "jim beam" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    > news:[email hidden]...
    >> cracking from tension being "too low", as is the case with non-drive
    >> spokes, is like expecting an old campy record crank to fatigue when
    >> all it's doing is propping up a wall in the garage.
    > Great, non-drive sidespokes = unused crank. Brilliant idiocy yet again
    > from beamboy.
    >
    >> i'm waiting for the pics.
    > Yeah, and let's hope he doesn't use sticky tape to position his Park
    > tensiometer in place.
    you're bearing false witness. or is there some kind of moron exemption
    for that commandment?

    Uh, sorry beamboy, did you use duct tape instead?

    Is not duct/duck tape sticky on one side?

    Sticky tape = usually means desktop tape such as invisible or masking
    Duct tape = Space shuttle repair kit in one

    Point being, beamboy = fraud.

  17. On 2007-10-23, Paul Borg <[email hidden]> wrote:
    [...]

    Quoted message said:

    If you think it's impossible to build a wheel with higher tension spokes
    non-drive side, then you are simply a fool.

    How is that possible? Assuming 3x on both sides, which this was.

  18. email hidden said:

    One of my rear Open Pro wheels succumbed to the cracks around eyelets
    problem. 32 spoke. DT 14/15 gauge. Brass nipples. 3 cross both
    sides. 1998 Chorus hub. Wheel was built Fall 2001 with new rim and
    spokes. Original rim broke in a crash in Spring 2001. Thousands and
    thousands of miles on the wheel. All of the cracks are on the non
    drive side eyelets. Seems odd since the non drive side spokes have
    the least tension. Several of the non drive side eyelets have short
    cracks extending out from them. One of the eyelets has long cracks
    from it. And the sides of the rim around that eyelet also have cracks
    in it. Pretty soon I would expect that 2 inch section of rim to be
    pulled completely away.

    I'm going to rebuild the wheel with a new Open Pro rim I already own.
    I know the spokes will fit. I plan to reuse the spokes since they
    seem strong enough to rip apart the rim without breaking. And have
    lasted thousands and thousands of miles.

    Possibly your rim and a portion of the other Mavic rims developing
    cracks originating at the spoke sockets/eyelets do so because of
    imperfections. Mavic certainly is not immune to manufacturing defects.
    Specifically, though just speculating, the holes drilled to accept
    the sockets could have rough or torn edges or they could become rough
    or torn when the sockets are set in them. Such roughness or tearing
    would serve as a crack initiator and might be produced on just one
    side or both sides of the rim during its manufacture.

    --

    Spike

  19. Jambo' [email protected] said:

    "Tom Sherman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Jambo said:

    "jim beam" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...
    > Jambo wrote:
    >> "jim beam" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    >>news:[email hidden]...
    >>> cracking from tension being "too low", as is the case with non-drive
    >>> spokes, is like expecting an old campy record crank to fatigue when
    >>> all it's doing is propping up a wall in the garage.
    >> Great, non-drive sidespokes = unused crank. Brilliant idiocy yet again
    >> from beamboy.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    >>> i'm waiting for the pics.
    >> Yeah, and let's hope he doesn't use sticky tape to position his Park
    >> tensiometer in place.
    > you're bearing false witness. or is there some kind of moron exemption
    > for that commandment?

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Uh, sorry beamboy, did you use duct tape instead?

    Quoted message said:

    Is not duct/duck tape sticky on one side?

    Sticky tape = usually means desktop tape such as invisible or masking
    Duct tape = Space shuttle repair kit in one

    Point being, beamboy = fraud.

    Get a mirror, Bozo.

  20. Ben C said:

    On 2007-10-23, Paul Borg <[email hidden]> wrote:
    [...]

    Quoted message said:

    If you think it's impossible to build a wheel with higher tension spokes
    non-drive side, then you are simply a fool.

    How is that possible? Assuming 3x on both sides, which this was.

    Yep. 3 cross both sides. DT 14/15 gauge spokes. Brass nipples. And
    the wheel is dished correctly. I'm not tightening the non drive
    spokes until the nipples are twisted off and pulling the wheel until
    it is touching the non drive side chainstay. The spokes on the non
    drive side are relatively loose compared to the drive side spokes.

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