A couple different questions (newbie home mechanic)



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Henry Rollins

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I have two issues with which I'm having trouble and I figured I could get some quick (and great)
answers from you guys.

1) I have a stuck bottom bracket in my mountain bike. What are some techniques to remove it? I wish
the spline on the shell was deeper, it's tough to get any force on the wrench at all without it
hopping out of the teeth when the bike in on the stand. Also, left hand side is reverse
threaded, right??

2) My road bike has taken on a life of its own to the point that it's virtuall unrideable. Whenever
i remove my hands from the bars it DIVES to the right - so much so that the other day I nearly
bailed riding on completely flat ground. None of my breaks are rubbing and for the life of me I
can't think of what would cause this kind of behavior. if I push the bike left before removing
my hands, the dive is so severe as to actually steer the bike past straight and back into the
right hand dive again. This is extremely frustrating as I want to be out on the roads in our
beautiful CO weather!

Thanks in advance for the help!
 
Henry Rollins wrote:

> I have two issues with which I'm having trouble and I figured I could get some quick (and great)
> answers from you guys.
>
> 1) I have a stuck bottom bracket in my mountain bike. What are some techniques to remove it? I
> wish the spline on the shell was deeper, it's tough to get any force on the wrench at all
> without it hopping out of the teeth when the bike in on the stand.

There's a nifty Tackx tool for this, clamps on to the BB spindle so it won't pull out. See:
http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/tools.html#bottom

> Also, left hand side is reverse threaded, right??

NOOOOO! Wrong! No wonder it's "stuck!"

It's the right side that has the left-hand thread, the left side is a normal right-hand
(right-foot?) thread.

> 2) My road bike has taken on a life of its own to the point that it's virtuall unrideable.
> Whenever i remove my hands from the bars it DIVES to the right - so much so that the other day
> I nearly bailed riding on completely flat ground. None of my breaks are rubbing and for the
> life of me I can't think of what would cause this kind of behavior. if I push the bike left
> before removing my hands, the dive is so severe as to actually steer the bike past straight
> and back into the right hand dive again. This is extremely frustrating as I want to be out on
> the roads in our beautiful CO weather!

This is likely the result of the fork or frame being bent.

Other possible causes are the front wheel being installed crooked, or binding control cables, but
these are much less likely given the severity of the problem.

Sheldon "Symmetry" Brown +-------------------------------------------------------+
| I found no fault with the cook, and it was the rule | of the voyage that the cook found no fault
| with me. | There was never a ship's crew so well agreed. | --Joshua Slocum _Sailing Alone Around
| The World_ | http://eldred.ne.mediaone.net/js/saaw.htm |
+-------------------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com
 
"Henry Rollins" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> I have two issues with which I'm having trouble and I figured I could get some quick (and great)
> answers from you guys.
>
> 1) I have a stuck bottom bracket in my mountain bike. What are some techniques to remove it? I
> wish the spline on the shell was deeper, it's tough to get any force on the wrench at all
> without it hopping out of the teeth when the bike in on the stand. Also, left hand side is
> reverse threaded, right??

Lock the tool down like this for pipe billet BB's http://www2.pbase.com/image/16818276 with a rear
skewer and some washers. Or get a M8x1.0 bolt about 2" long for square taper BB's and bolt the tool
on to the axle.

Follow the rest of Sheldon's advice.

Mike
 
On Thu, 24 Jul 2003 13:07:59 +0000, Henry Rollins wrote:

> 1) I have a stuck bottom bracket in my mountain bike. What are some techniques to remove it? I
> wish the spline on the shell was deeper, it's tough to get any force on the wrench at all
> without it hopping out of the teeth when the bike in on the stand. Also, left hand side is
> reverse threaded, right??

Wrong. Right side is left-hand thread. Maybe that will help. If that ain't it, try mounting the tool
in a vise and using the frame itself for leverage. Be careful to turn the right way....

> 2) My road bike has taken on a life of its own to the point that it's virtuall unrideable.
> Whenever i remove my hands from the bars it DIVES to the right - so much so that the other day
> I nearly bailed riding on completely flat ground. None of my breaks are rubbing and for the
> life of me I can't think of what would cause this kind of behavior.

Brake rubbing won't do that, anyway.

Two possiblities, based on what happened prior to this appearing:

1) If you replaced the brake/shifter cables recently, maybe one is too long, or too short, and is
literally pulling the bars around.

2) If you had a minor crash, maybe the fork is misaligned.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | And though I have the gift of prophecy, and understand all _`\(,_ | mysteries, and all
knowledge; and though I have all faith, so (_)/ (_) | that I could remove mountains, and have not
charity, I am nothing. [1 Corinth. 13:2]
 
"Henry Rollins" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> I have two issues with which I'm having trouble and I figured I could get some quick (and great)
> answers from you guys.
>
> 1) I have a stuck bottom bracket in my mountain bike. What are some techniques to remove it? I
> wish the spline on the shell was deeper, it's tough to get any force on the wrench at all
> without it hopping out of the teeth when the bike in on the stand. Also, left hand side is
> reverse threaded, right??
>
> 2) My road bike has taken on a life of its own to the point that it's virtuall unrideable.
> Whenever i remove my hands from the bars it DIVES to the right - so much so that the other day
> I nearly bailed riding on completely flat ground. None of my breaks are rubbing and for the
> life of me I can't think of what would cause this kind of behavior. if I push the bike left
> before removing my hands, the dive is so severe as to actually steer the bike past straight
> and back into the right hand dive again.
This
> is extremely frustrating as I want to be out on the roads in our beautiful CO weather!

Regarding the BB: It may not be stuck, it may just be your technique. The chain side is reverse
threaded. The off side is regular thread. Get a Tacx or similar tool which bolts to the spindle and
can be driven with a nice hefty 24 inch wrench. If that doesn't move the cup, _then_ you can call
it "stuck".

For the road bike, turn your handlebars ninety degrees from straight ahead. Now sight straight down
the front of the bike . A line along the stem, head tube and upper half of the fork blade should be
straight until the blade curves near the bottom. A decided kink backwards just below the crown is
the result of a front impact. AT that point you'll need advice onan alignment.

Now put a straightedge across the back of the blades just below the crown ( or where a crown would
be). See if that edge is parallel to the hub. A twisted fork wil be clearly visisble. If so, get
alignment advice

Sight the top tube and down tube along their lengths. Do you see any kinks or curves? A front impact
will buckle those tubes just behind the head tube. See a frame shop for frame repair advice.

Stand in front of the bike. Sight the right side of the head tube against the left side of the seat
tube and the reverse. You will be looking at a small slit of daylight. If that slit is a rectangle
you're OK. If the tubes are not in the same plane get alignment advice.

Those four tests are not comprehensive but they are quick and will show up many common
alignment problems.
--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971
 
> "Henry Rollins" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> > I have two issues with which I'm having trouble and I figured I could get some quick (and great)
> > answers from you guys.
> >
> > 1) I have a stuck bottom bracket in my mountain bike. < >
> >
> > 2) My road bike has taken on a life of its own to the point that it's virtuall unrideable.
> > Whenever i remove my hands from the bars it DIVES to the right < >

In the Southern hemisphere would this dive to the left???? You may just be desperately confused...
to my certain knowledge the real Henry Rollins is currently on tour in Australia, Adelaide, South
Australia last night, in fact :) A slightly OT response

--
Alex Wheaton
 
Sheldon Brown <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Henry Rollins wrote:
>
> > I have two issues with which I'm having trouble and I figured I could
get
> > some quick (and great) answers from you guys.
> >
> > 1) I have a stuck bottom bracket in my mountain bike. What are some techniques to remove it? I
> > wish the spline on the shell was deeper,
it's
> > tough to get any force on the wrench at all without it hopping out of
the
> > teeth when the bike in on the stand.
>
> There's a nifty Tackx tool for this, clamps on to the BB spindle so it won't pull out. See:
> http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/tools.html#bottom

I've seen a crank arm bolt and an ordinary crank tool successfully used to do the same, in a
pinch.......

> > Also, left hand side is reverse threaded, right??
>
> NOOOOO! Wrong! No wonder it's "stuck!"
>
> It's the right side that has the left-hand thread, the left side is a normal right-hand
> (right-foot?) thread.

Heh - after many, many BB change-outs, this _still_ catches me out, heheheheheh.........

> > 2) My road bike has taken on a life of its own to the point that it's virtuall unrideable.
> > Whenever i remove my hands from the bars it DIVES
to
> > the right - so much so that the other day I nearly bailed riding on completely flat ground. None
> > of my breaks are rubbing and for the life
of
> > me I can't think of what would cause this kind of behavior. if I push
the
> > bike left before removing my hands, the dive is so severe as to actually steer the bike past
> > straight and back into the right hand dive again.
This
> > is extremely frustrating as I want to be out on the roads in our
beautiful
> > CO weather!
>
> This is likely the result of the fork or frame being bent.
>
> Other possible causes are the front wheel being installed crooked, or binding control cables, but
> these are much less likely given the severity of the problem.

Ahhh, dude's bike is all bent up fer sure ',;~}~

Shaun aRe - or he's got a very heavy bangle on his right arm...............
 
Have you checked for the presence of a micro black hole just to the right of your right brake lever?

"Henry Rollins" <[email protected]> a écrit dans le message news: [email protected]...
> I have two issues with which I'm having trouble and I figured I could get some quick (and great)
> answers from you guys.
>
> 1) I have a stuck bottom bracket in my mountain bike. What are some techniques to remove it? I
> wish the spline on the shell was deeper, it's tough to get any force on the wrench at all
> without it hopping out of the teeth when the bike in on the stand. Also, left hand side is
> reverse threaded, right??
>
> 2) My road bike has taken on a life of its own to the point that it's virtuall unrideable.
> Whenever i remove my hands from the bars it DIVES to the right - so much so that the other day
> I nearly bailed riding on completely flat ground. None of my breaks are rubbing and for the
> life of me I can't think of what would cause this kind of behavior. if I push the bike left
> before removing my hands, the dive is so severe as to actually steer the bike past straight
> and back into the right hand dive again.
This
> is extremely frustrating as I want to be out on the roads in our beautiful CO weather!
>
> Thanks in advance for the help!
 
On Thu, 24 Jul 2003 13:07:59 -0500, Henry Rollins <[email protected]> may have said:

>2) My road bike has taken on a life of its own to the point that it's virtuall unrideable.
> Whenever i remove my hands from the bars it DIVES to the right - so much so that the other day
> I nearly bailed riding on completely flat ground.

Check the fork tubes and the frame tubes *everywhere* for bends, cracks, or signs of tube motion
at a gusset. If you find any of these, you need either a skilled frame repair shop or a new
component. To check for certain bends, have someone hold the bike vertical with the front wheel
straight, and see if the front and rear wheels both are sitting perfectly in line. A fork tube
that's bent back may not show up with this, but can often be spotted by looking down along the
steer tube to see if one leg projects farther forward than the other. A failing headset weld could
also be the problem, and might not show up with no wieght on the bike, so have your helperstraddle
the bike, and look at what the wheels do when he puts weight on it. Any frame crack or weld
failure should be treated as cause to take the bike out of service immediately. Also check for a
rear axle nut that's not tight; usually, the right one is the only one that can go loose without
showing up as a serious shifting problem, but it can create some interesting steer effects if the
axle wasn't all the way into the dropouts.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail. Yes, I have a killfile. If I
don't respond to something, it's also possible that I'm busy.
 
Henry Rollins <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I have two issues with which I'm having trouble and I figured I could get some quick (and great)
> answers from you guys.
>
> 1) I have a stuck bottom bracket in my mountain bike. What are some techniques to remove it? I
> wish the spline on the shell was deeper, it's tough to get any force on the wrench at all
> without it hopping out of the teeth when the bike in on the stand. Also, left hand side is
> reverse threaded, right??

other posters said good things. regarding the bb tool. which one do you have? if you have the park
tool as picutred in one poster's link, then the m8 bolt will do wonders, (or the skewer for hollow
axles, etc). however, many inexpensive tools (and maybe some expensive ones too) are much shorter,
without the additional bit for a 3/8" ratchet drive, and an ordinary crank bolt with a big washer,
or a square of thin wood with a hole in it will do the trick. you only need a thread or two in the
spindle. there is no serious load on the threads. all it does is hold the tool from slipping out.
not a tall order.

cheers,

anthony
 
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