Bicycle for college?

[Bluesman5920]

I am looking to buy a bicycle for college (Oklahoma State University). I went to my local bike shop
and found a Trek 4100 Alpha that I really liked ($250). For the college atmosphere, I thought this
very inexpensive mountain bike would be a good choice.

A lot of people have said that any bike I take to college will be stolen and that I really need like
a brown 70's broken bike to have any hope of not getting one stolen. Should I even take a bike to
college and if so what should I take? Will the above-mentioned bike be ok and what could I do to
secure it?

 

[Jasper Janssen]

On 1 Jun 2003 14:25:08 -0700, [email protected] (bluesman5920) wrote:

>I am looking to buy a bicycle for college (Oklahoma State University). I went to my local bike shop
>and found a Trek 4100 Alpha that I really liked ($250). For the college atmosphere, I thought this
>very inexpensive mountain bike would be a good choice.
>
>A lot of people have said that any bike I take to college will be stolen and that I really need
>like a brown 70's broken bike to have any hope of not getting one stolen. Should I even take a bike
>to college and if so what should I take? Will the above-mentioned bike be ok and what could I do to
>secure it?

[Note: I'm on a different continent. Not everything in my experience necessarily applies]

Lock it, and for god's sake don't overclean. It's fine to clean the moving parts, chain, axles, and
other bearings, but otherwise, the more mud & rust you're dragging along the better, for camouflage.
But the most important thing is and remains lock discipline. Summary: get a lock that an average
thief can't open in three seconds flat. That category includes most chain locks and locks that have
a separate padlock, plus the cheaper and midrange variants of cable locks. A good quality U-lock
works fine, but the cheap ones suck. Two locks are much better than the sum of their parts. Locking
your bike to the "solid world", so that the pro thieves don't just drive a truck up and lift a dozen
bikes into them, for cracking their locks at leisure, also a good idea.

The best lock IMHO is a chain lock by Cyclops[1]. The difference with regular chain locks is that
these are through and through hardened steel, where most chains are either mild steel or mild steel
with a hardened outer layer. Boltcutters just curl up and die when they see these babies.

Whether you can find those in the US would be a major stumbling block, though.

Ring locks[2] are extremely convenient, because they screw onto the bike and thus you don't have
to worry about having it with you, or storing it somewhewre on the bike after you unlock it --
just insert key, twist, and you can go. I have no idea if that kind of lock is commonly available
in the US, though, and don't get one any cheaper than that Axa model from the footnote. The Axa
SL-7 is already much better, and not much more expensive. When you leave your bike in a high risk
area for longer periods of time, two locks are the way to go, one of which should lock your bike
to the bike rack.

If you get good locks (and expect to spend $50 or so on locks, if the bike doesn't come with
anything decent), and use them, and don't leave the keys in (my personal bane -- lost 3 or 4 bikes
that way), then you should be okay.

If you want to be frugal (and/or spend the rest on beer), not worry about your bike much, and be
able to replace it fairly cheaply, get an old clunker. But do look for one with a 3speed hub,
especially if you've got hills. I just bought myself a new one last week, for about $150. Good steel
frame, 3speed, drum brakes, baggage rack, lighting system, manufactured '85, all bearings adjusted
properly, but slightly rusty and unsightly.

Here in the Netherlands, you can leave such a bike with just a ring lock without much trouble.
Leaving a bike without *any* locks means screaming at the top of your voice "Hey, drunk fratboys!
Free transportation back to home!", even aside from 'real' thieves.

Jasper

[1] http://www.armada-bike-security.com/

[2]http://www.wheel2wheel4bikes.com/products.php?mcat=2&brand=27&scat=93&prodid=158

 

[Eric Vey]

--get an old clunker. But do look for one with a 3speed hub, especially if you've got hills. I just
bought myself a new one last week, for about $150. Good steel frame, 3speed, drum brakes, baggage
rack, lighting system, manufactured '85, all bearings adjusted properly, but slightly rusty and
unsightly.--

This is what I did when I was in college. I bought an old 3 speed for $35. I kept it looking bad,
but running good.

I was pretty good about keeping it locked, but one night the rack got hit by "professionals" all
aged under 18. The whole rack gets cleared out except for mine and a single speed . . . I had
forgotten to lock up that night.

"Jasper Janssen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 1 Jun 2003 14:25:08 -0700, [email protected] (bluesman5920) wrote:
>
> >I am looking to buy a bicycle for college (Oklahoma State
University).
> > I went to my local bike shop and found a Trek 4100 Alpha that I really liked ($250). For the
> > college atmosphere, I thought this very inexpensive mountain bike would be a good choice.
> >
> >A lot of people have said that any bike I take to college will be stolen and that I really need
> >like a brown 70's broken bike to have any hope of not getting one stolen. Should I even take a
> >bike to college and if so what should I take? Will the above-mentioned bike be ok and what could
> >I do to secure it?
>
> [Note: I'm on a different continent. Not everything in my experience necessarily applies]
>
> Lock it, and for god's sake don't overclean. It's fine to clean the
moving
> parts, chain, axles, and other bearings, but otherwise, the more mud & rust you're dragging along
> the better, for camouflage. But the most important thing is and remains lock discipline. Summary:
> get a lock
that
> an average thief can't open in three seconds flat. That category
includes
> most chain locks and locks that have a separate padlock, plus the
cheaper
> and midrange variants of cable locks. A good quality U-lock works
fine,
> but the cheap ones suck. Two locks are much better than the sum of
their
> parts. Locking your bike to the "solid world", so that the pro thieves don't just drive a truck up
> and lift a dozen bikes into them, for
cracking
> their locks at leisure, also a good idea.
>
> The best lock IMHO is a chain lock by Cyclops[1]. The difference with regular chain locks is that
> these are through and through hardened
steel,
> where most chains are either mild steel or mild steel with a hardened outer layer. Boltcutters
> just curl up and die when they see these
babies.
>
> Whether you can find those in the US would be a major stumbling block, though.
>
> Ring locks[2] are extremely convenient, because they screw onto the
bike
> and thus you don't have to worry about having it with you, or storing
it
> somewhewre on the bike after you unlock it -- just insert key, twist,
and
> you can go. I have no idea if that kind of lock is commonly available
in
> the US, though, and don't get one any cheaper than that Axa model from
the
> footnote. The Axa SL-7 is already much better, and not much more expensive. When you leave your
> bike in a high risk area for longer
periods
> of time, two locks are the way to go, one of which should lock your
bike
> to the bike rack.
>
> If you get good locks (and expect to spend $50 or so on locks, if the
bike
> doesn't come with anything decent), and use them, and don't leave the
keys
> in (my personal bane -- lost 3 or 4 bikes that way), then you should
be
> okay.
>
> If you want to be frugal (and/or spend the rest on beer), not worry
about
> your bike much, and be able to replace it fairly cheaply, get an old clunker. But do look for one
> with a 3speed hub, especially if you've
got
> hills. I just bought myself a new one last week, for about $150. Good steel frame, 3speed, drum
> brakes, baggage rack, lighting system, manufactured '85, all bearings adjusted properly, but
> slightly rusty
and
> unsightly.
>
> Here in the Netherlands, you can leave such a bike with just a ring
lock
> without much trouble. Leaving a bike without *any* locks means
screaming
> at the top of your voice "Hey, drunk fratboys! Free transportation
back to
> home!", even aside from 'real' thieves.
>
>
> Jasper
>
> [1] http://www.armada-bike-security.com/
>
> [2]
>
http://www.wheel2wheel4bikes.com/products.php?mcat=2&brand=27&scat=93&prodid=158

 

[Tanya Quinn]

Bikes are really handy for getting around campuses. Buy a decent lock for your bike - better yet buy
two - a sturdy U-lock as well as a cable lock. (thus the bike thief would need to have two types of
tools) As well with two locks it makes it easier to lock both wheels. Lock any pieces of the bike
that can easily disappear.

Beyond that, park your bike near other bicycles preferably nicer where your bike doesn't look
particularly like a target amongst them. If everyone on your campus has a brown 70's bike, then
yours would look the most tempting. Most likely it will fit in well.

[email protected] (bluesman5920) wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> I am looking to buy a bicycle for college (Oklahoma State University). I went to my local bike
> shop and found a Trek 4100 Alpha that I really liked ($250). For the college atmosphere, I thought
> this very inexpensive mountain bike would be a good choice.
>
> A lot of people have said that any bike I take to college will be stolen and that I really need
> like a brown 70's broken bike to have any hope of not getting one stolen. Should I even take a
> bike to college and if so what should I take? Will the above-mentioned bike be ok and what could I
> do to secure it?

 

[Eric Vey]

Oh. And don't forget the big basket in the front. It completes the look and makes carrying your
books a breeze.

"Eric Vey" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> --get an old clunker. But do look for one with a 3speed hub,
especially
> if you've got hills. I just bought myself a new one last week, for about $150. Good steel frame,
> 3speed, drum brakes, baggage rack, lighting system, manufactured '85, all bearings adjusted
> properly, but slightly rusty
and
> unsightly.--
>
> This is what I did when I was in college. I bought an old 3 speed for $35. I kept it looking bad,
> but running good.
>
> I was pretty good about keeping it locked, but one night the rack got hit by "professionals" all
> aged under 18. The whole rack gets cleared out except for mine and a single speed . . . I had
> forgotten to lock
up
> that night.
>
>
> "Jasper Janssen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > On 1 Jun 2003 14:25:08 -0700, [email protected]
(bluesman5920)
> > wrote:
> >
> > >I am looking to buy a bicycle for college (Oklahoma State
> University).
> > > I went to my local bike shop and found a Trek 4100 Alpha that I
> > > really liked ($250). For the college atmosphere, I thought this
very
> > >inexpensive mountain bike would be a good choice.
> > >
> > >A lot of people have said that any bike I take to college will be stolen and that I really need
> > >like a brown 70's broken bike to have any hope of not getting one stolen. Should I even take a
> > >bike to college and if so what should I take? Will the above-mentioned
bike
> > >be ok and what could I do to secure it?
> >
> > [Note: I'm on a different continent. Not everything in my experience necessarily applies]
> >
> > Lock it, and for god's sake don't overclean. It's fine to clean the
> moving
> > parts, chain, axles, and other bearings, but otherwise, the more mud
&
> > rust you're dragging along the better, for camouflage. But the most important thing is and
> > remains lock discipline. Summary: get a lock
> that
> > an average thief can't open in three seconds flat. That category
> includes
> > most chain locks and locks that have a separate padlock, plus the
> cheaper
> > and midrange variants of cable locks. A good quality U-lock works
> fine,
> > but the cheap ones suck. Two locks are much better than the sum of
> their
> > parts. Locking your bike to the "solid world", so that the pro
thieves
> > don't just drive a truck up and lift a dozen bikes into them, for
> cracking
> > their locks at leisure, also a good idea.
> >
> > The best lock IMHO is a chain lock by Cyclops[1]. The difference
with
> > regular chain locks is that these are through and through hardened
> steel,
> > where most chains are either mild steel or mild steel with a
hardened
> > outer layer. Boltcutters just curl up and die when they see these
> babies.
> >
> > Whether you can find those in the US would be a major stumbling
block,
> > though.
> >
> > Ring locks[2] are extremely convenient, because they screw onto the
> bike
> > and thus you don't have to worry about having it with you, or
storing
> it
> > somewhewre on the bike after you unlock it -- just insert key,
twist,
> and
> > you can go. I have no idea if that kind of lock is commonly
available
> in
> > the US, though, and don't get one any cheaper than that Axa model
from
> the
> > footnote. The Axa SL-7 is already much better, and not much more expensive. When you leave your
> > bike in a high risk area for longer
> periods
> > of time, two locks are the way to go, one of which should lock your
> bike
> > to the bike rack.
> >
> > If you get good locks (and expect to spend $50 or so on locks, if
the
> bike
> > doesn't come with anything decent), and use them, and don't leave
the
> keys
> > in (my personal bane -- lost 3 or 4 bikes that way), then you should
> be
> > okay.
> >
> > If you want to be frugal (and/or spend the rest on beer), not worry
> about
> > your bike much, and be able to replace it fairly cheaply, get an old clunker. But do look for
> > one with a 3speed hub, especially if you've
> got
> > hills. I just bought myself a new one last week, for about $150.
Good
> > steel frame, 3speed, drum brakes, baggage rack, lighting system, manufactured '85, all bearings
> > adjusted properly, but slightly rusty
> and
> > unsightly.
> >
> > Here in the Netherlands, you can leave such a bike with just a ring
> lock
> > without much trouble. Leaving a bike without *any* locks means
> screaming
> > at the top of your voice "Hey, drunk fratboys! Free transportation
> back to
> > home!", even aside from 'real' thieves.
> >
> >
> > Jasper
> >
> > [1] http://www.armada-bike-security.com/
> >
> > [2]
> >
>
http://www.wheel2wheel4bikes.com/products.php?mcat=2&brand=27&scat=93&prodid=158

 

[Trent Gregory H]

On 1 Jun 2003, Tanya Quinn wrote:

> Bikes are really handy for getting around campuses. Buy a decent lock for your bike - better yet
> buy two - a sturdy U-lock as well as a cable lock. (thus the bike thief would need to have two
> types of tools) As well with two locks it makes it easier to lock both wheels. Lock any pieces of
> the bike that can easily disappear.
>

One more recommendation: If you're getting an MTB-styled bike, it will likely come standard with a
quick-release seatpost. If so, replace it immediately with a regular pinch bolt, or somebody will
steal your seatpost and saddle. Silly, I know, but common here at the U of Washington.

Trent

 

[Tom Keats]

In article <Pine.A41.4.44.0306020632470.130708-100000@homer40.u.washington.edu>, trent gregory hill
<[email protected]> writes:

> One more recommendation: If you're getting an MTB-styled bike, it will likely come standard with a
> quick-release seatpost. If so, replace it immediately with a regular pinch bolt, or somebody will
> steal your seatpost and saddle. Silly, I know, but common here at the U of Washington.

Sometimes I wish my Ol' Pig Iron had a QR seatpost. They are nice for dealing with steeper slopes.
And there are nifty first aid kits that are designed to be discretely crammed down the seat tube.

I often see riders who've parked their bikes, with saddle & post hanging from their backpacks. IOW,
you can just take it with you. OTOH, I guess it's nice to have one less thing to deal with in the
parking ritual/rigamarole of locking up, doffing hat, glasses & gloves, removing lights, etc.

cheers, Tom

--
-- Powered by FreeBSD Above address is just a spam midden. I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn
[point] bc [point] ca

 

[Hunrobe]

>[email protected]

wrote:

>I am looking to buy a bicycle for college (Oklahoma State University). I went to my local bike shop
>and found a Trek 4100 Alpha that I really liked ($250). For the college atmosphere, I thought this
>very inexpensive mountain bike would be a good choice.

---snip---

It sounds like a good choice.

>A lot of people have said that any bike I take to college will be stolen and that I really need
>like a brown 70's broken bike to have any hope of not getting one stolen. Should I even take a bike
>to college and if so what should I take? Will the above-mentioned bike be ok and what could I do to
>secure it?

Unfortunately, there does seem to be a higher incidence of bike theft on and around college
campuses than in the real world- no offense intended to anyone in the academic world- but if you
buy and *use* a decent lock while you're going to classes etcetera you'll really cut the odds of
having your ride stolen. At night your best course would be to store it inside. Having said that, I
think most college students would be wise to consider a $250 MTB as a consumable that may last for
a couple of years. Even if you have two such bikes stolen during a four year college career you'll
only be out $500. IME, in the same four years a typical college male will spend more than that on
spilled beer. <g>

Regards, Bob Hunt

 

[Bluesman5920]

So, taking out the seat (or replacing the mechanism), several decent locks, and I should be set to
go? Also the bike that I mentioned (trek 4100 alpha), is that a good bike? I have forgotten a lot
about bikes since I had a very serious bike accident 10 years ago and I really haven't ridden since
(but I'm not afraid to start again.)

(There really aren't any used bike shops or pawn shops in my area and I got a sum of graduation
money specifically for a bike so that bike looks like my only option at the moment.)

 

[Jasper Janssen]

On 1 Jun 2003 18:20:01 -0700, [email protected] (Tanya Quinn) wrote:

>Lock any pieces of the bike that can easily disappear.

This is also an issue: If you get a bike with quick release wheels or seatpost, or anything else for
that matter, switch them out for things with regular locknuts. You don't want to come back to a bike
with either or both wheels and/or seatpost/saddle missing.

Jasper

 

[Zeldabee]

Jasper Janssen <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 1 Jun 2003 18:20:01 -0700, [email protected] (Tanya Quinn) wrote:
>
> >Lock any pieces of the bike that can easily disappear.
>
> This is also an issue: If you get a bike with quick release wheels or seatpost, or anything else
> for that matter, switch them out for things with regular locknuts. You don't want to come back to
> a bike with either or both wheels and/or seatpost/saddle missing.

Alternatively, you could just be sure to lock each wheel. I live in NYC, and use a NY lock (heavy
chain) and a U lock. In OK you could get away with a good cable and a U lock. Cable your bike to
something solid through one wheel, then U lock the other wheel to the bike.

I left the QR on my seatpost, here, and put a length of bike chain through the seat rails and frame.
A little duct tape on the saddle, and it's a less attractive target. It's less of a PITA to change
flats, etc., if you leave the QR on.

--
z e l d a b e e @ p a n i x . c o m http://NewsReader.Com/

 

[Jacques]

To summarize: your bike will most likely be stolen, vandalized, it will take you 10 minutes to lock
your 3 different locks, you will carry with you 1 helmet, 1 saddle and two wheels. ;-) Still, don't
feel discouraged by everything they say !

Cheers Jacques

 

[Zeldabee]

"jacques" <[email protected]> wrote:
> To summarize: your bike will most likely be stolen, vandalized, it will take you 10 minutes to
> lock your 3 different locks, you will carry with you 1 helmet, 1 saddle and two wheels. ;-) Still,
> don't feel discouraged by everything they say !

It can't be worse than NYC, and I never carried that much around with
me...I just locked them securely. It's by far the best way to get around the city--at 5 1/2 months
pregnant, I'm not riding, and boy, do I miss the freedom.

--
z e l d a b e e @ p a n i x . c o m http://NewsReader.Com/

 

[Jacques]

4 more to wait... and then you can buy a nice little trailer. Or maybe in NYC it is not reasonable ?

 

[John David Powe]

Yep. Just buy a beater bike and fix it up to make it reliable. Noboby will likely steal it and if
they do, you won't be out much money.

jacques wrote:
>
> To summarize: your bike will most likely be stolen, vandalized, it will take you 10 minutes to
> lock your 3 different locks, you will carry with you 1 helmet, 1 saddle and two wheels. ;-) Still,
> don't feel discouraged by everything they say !
>
> Cheers Jacques

 

[Zeldabee]

"jacques" <[email protected]> wrote:
> 4 more to wait...

Um... 3 1/2, unless I go late.

> and then you can buy a nice little trailer. Or maybe in NYC it is not reasonable ?

Not really. I've used a cargo trailer without problems, but wouldn't feel comfortable with a baby in
a trailer in the city. Depending on childcare arrangements, it's looking like I won't be able to
commute by bike until he's old enough for a bike seat, and I'm not so sure how I feel about those.

Who knows when I'll be riding regularly again, much less touring. We'll see.

--
z e l d a b e e @ p a n i x . c o m http://NewsReader.Com/

 

[Luigi De Guzman]

[email protected] (bluesman5920) wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> I am looking to buy a bicycle for college (Oklahoma State University). I went to my local bike
> shop and found a Trek 4100 Alpha that I really liked ($250). For the college atmosphere, I thought
> this very inexpensive mountain bike would be a good choice.
>
> A lot of people have said that any bike I take to college will be stolen and that I really need
> like a brown 70's broken bike to have any hope of not getting one stolen. Should I even take a
> bike to college and if so what should I take? Will the above-mentioned bike be ok and what could I
> do to secure it?

old bikes don't have to be ugly and broken--just unfashionable, and not too shiny...

if you buy a nice bike, buy an even-nicer lock--and USE IT. In fact, buy two. Lock the frame rear
wheel to something solid with a U-lock and loop a cable lock around anything that can be
stolen...then loop that to something solid as well.

Don't lock to any 'bike stand' that isn't securely bolted down, or better, embedded a meter deep
in concrete.

Find yourself some friends with more money than sense, and find out where they park their nicer,
unsecure bicycles. Park yours nearby, but secure it mightily against theft. Then sit back as thieves
go for the nice bikes which are easier to steal than yours.

If you're storing the bike outside, a nice bike might not be a good idea. When you're not riding it,
it will get rained on, and parts will rust. That will suck. Lock it under cover, or better, indoors,
if you can. If you're just going to leave the bicycle outside to the elements, I would suggest you
buy a beater bike that you can live with; no point spending big bucks on something that'll rust.

By all means bring a bike. Student life is so much easier with one, generally speaking. But also buy
lights (riding at night without them is bad enough--now do it when the roads are full of boozed-up
fratboys). and learn to ride on the road (faster. fewer pedestrians. and, once you're over the
initial fear, not very hard at all--you can drive on the roads, can't you?)

I'm a grad student in London; it's a big busy city and the building I live in has nowhere to store
bicycles indoors (not anywhere they'd *let* us store bikes anyway) so I ride an UGLY pink mixte
(that's a girls' bike) with a 3-speed hub brake. It's ugly enough that nobody wants to steal it (and
it's locked up decently). I leave it outside to deal with the weather. If I had different
arrangements--secure indoor bike storage, say--I would have brought my nice bike from home.

-Luigi

 

[Zoot Katz]

02 Jun 2003 22:32:09 GMT, <[email protected]>, zeldabee
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Not really. I've used a cargo trailer without problems, but wouldn't feel comfortable with a baby
>in a trailer in the city. Depending on childcare arrangements, it's looking like I won't be able to
>commute by bike until he's old enough for a bike seat, and I'm not so sure how I feel about those.

On a MTB, I've seen the soft sling back-pack carriers work for infants.

Of course, as always, Sheldon Brown has the answer: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/carrababy.html
--
zk

 

[Garmonboezia]

[email protected] (bluesman5920) wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> So, taking out the seat (or replacing the mechanism), several decent locks, and I should be set to
> go? Also the bike that I mentioned (trek 4100 alpha), is that a good bike? I have forgotten a lot
> about bikes since I had a very serious bike accident 10 years ago and I really haven't ridden
> since (but I'm not afraid to start again.)
>
> (There really aren't any used bike shops or pawn shops in my area and I got a sum of graduation
> money specifically for a bike so that bike looks like my only option at the moment.)
>

Just my opinion....

I think you could live with one good U-lock as long as you remove the front wheel and run the lock
through the frame and both wheels AND attach to a firm metal upright like a no parking sign.

I took a quick look at the Trek website. The 4100 doesn't appear to have a quick release seatpost so
I think you're OK there. For $250 it will do the job. I wouldn't sink more into it though, beyond
routine upkeep.

 

[J. Bruce Fields]

In article <[email protected]>, jacques <[email protected]> wrote:
>To summarize: your bike will most likely be stolen, vandalized, it will take you 10 minutes to lock
>your 3 different locks, you will carry with you 1 helmet, 1 saddle and two wheels. ;-) Still, don't
>feel discouraged by everything they say !

Just to offer one counterexample to all this doom and gloom. I live near a big college campus, and
have a couple bikes (old 10-speeds of probably no real monetary value), which I've left on or near
campus completely unlocked overnight on several occasions without their being touched.

Now I use a newer bike, which I also frequently park on or near campus, and I always lock it with an
inexpensive U-lock but I don't take any additional precautions.

A reasonable amount of caution (like an ordinary U-lock, always used) is probably all that's
required. You won't eliminate the risk of theft entirely (you never can), but you'll probably get
through college without having the bike stolen.

--Bruce F.