Chain Maintenance



Alex Rodriguez <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...

> These devices do an ok job at cleaning the outside of the chain. You
> want to clean the inside of the chain. That is where all the wear occurs.
> The outside of the chain is really unimporant. It only matters if you want
> to keep your clothes/leg clean.
> ----------------


I wonder. Is that really true?

It seems to me that keeping the inside of the chain well lubed and
grit free extends the life of the chain. But assuming one would
replace the chain at the proper level of elongation (whether that's at
1500, 2500 or even 4000 miles), you'll save some money over time, but
the effect on cog life is neutral.

OTOH, I'd assume that a chain that is greasy/gritty on the outside is
constantly grinding away at cogs and chainrings. Those babies are
expensive and the replacement intervals should be far longer.

Putting this all together, I would think that taking care of the
inside of the chain is important for extending the life of a routine
replacement part (the chain), but taking care of the outside is just
as important (or more so) for extending the life of the drivetrain as
a whole.

Comments?

Peter Storey
 
"Peter Storey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Alex Rodriguez <[email protected]> wrote in message

news:<[email protected]>...
>
> > These devices do an ok job at cleaning the outside of the chain. You
> > want to clean the inside of the chain. That is where all the wear occurs.


Wear to the chain, yes. There's other wear to care about.

> > The outside of the chain is really unimporant. It only matters if you want
> > to keep your clothes/leg clean.

>
> I wonder. Is that really true?


Not totally - see your remarks below :)

> It seems to me that keeping the inside of the chain well lubed and
> grit free extends the life of the chain. But assuming one would
> replace the chain at the proper level of elongation (whether that's at
> 1500, 2500 or even 4000 miles), you'll save some money over time, but
> the effect on cog life is neutral.


It's not clear from the available evidence that one can affect the inside of the
chain usefully between buying it and throwing it out.

The existing test quoted recently here suggested that solvents may remove
lubrication from the inside of the chain, but that replacing that lube is
well-nigh impossible.

> OTOH, I'd assume that a chain that is greasy/gritty on the outside is
> constantly grinding away at cogs and chainrings. Those babies are
> expensive and the replacement intervals should be far longer.


Yes, that's why the outside of the chain should be kept as clean as possible,
also because grit on the outside can potentially work its way inside.

> Putting this all together, I would think that taking care of the
> inside of the chain is important for extending the life of a routine
> replacement part (the chain),


Except it's unproven that one CAN take care of the inside.

> but taking care of the outside is just as important (or more so)
> for extending the life of the drivetrain as a whole.


Regarding the exterior of the chain, your comments are spot on. Keep it clean.
--
Mark South: World Citizen, Net Denizen
 
Matt O'Toole <[email protected]> wrote:
>Doug Huffman wrote:
>>I'd like a ultrasonic cleaner but my 15,000 mile (~3 years) per
>>240-link chain hardly justifies it then.

>If you're getting that kind of mileage, you're definately doing
>something right!


240-link chain implies a recumbent to me; the chain lasts because each
link passes the sprockets and chainrings less often.
--
David Damerell <[email protected]> flcl?
 
On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 16:40:57 +0200, "Mark South"
<[email protected]> wrote:


>
>Except it's unproven that one CAN take care of the inside.
>


? This can't be hard to prove, at least as to being able to remove and
replace lubrication around the pins. No one has done this?
 
On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 16:40:57 +0200, "Mark South"
<[email protected]> wrote:

[snip]

>The existing test quoted recently here suggested that solvents may remove
>lubrication from the inside of the chain, but that replacing that lube is
>well-nigh impossible.


[snip]

Dear Mark,

The report mentioned may not have been quite as definitive
as everyone would like.

Apart from that, the theory that lubrication can be removed
but not replaced leaves us wondering how any dust can ever
get into the chain's innards to cause wear, any wax can
enter to gladden the hearts fo the paraffin-lovers, or any
water can seep in to dissolve the wax and cause squeaking.

Come to think of it, isn't oil itself a solvent?

Carl Fogel
 
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 16:40:57 +0200, "Mark South"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> [snip]
>
> >The existing test quoted recently here suggested that solvents may remove
> >lubrication from the inside of the chain, but that replacing that lube is
> >well-nigh impossible.

>
> [snip]
>
> The report mentioned may not have been quite as definitive
> as everyone would like.


Granted, but there have been few objective tests described here. One has to
work with what is known.

> Apart from that, the theory that lubrication can be removed
> but not replaced leaves us wondering how any dust can ever
> get into the chain's innards to cause wear,


Dust is not inhibited by capillary action, and a lot of the fine particles that
wear the chain are ground from the chain itself.

> any wax can
> enter to gladden the hearts fo the paraffin-lovers, or any
> water can seep in to dissolve the wax and cause squeaking.


I didn't say "theory", I said it's suggestive.

> Come to think of it, isn't oil itself a solvent?


Yes, but the oil that is thick enough to lubricate well under the kind of loads
carried by chain rollers is not very penetrating. Hence my reservation.
--
Mark South: World Citizen, Net Denizen
 
"Dan Daniel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 16:40:57 +0200, "Mark South"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >Except it's unproven that one CAN take care of the inside.
> >

> ? This can't be hard to prove, at least as to being able to remove and
> replace lubrication around the pins. No one has done this?


Test data is eagerly awaited.
--
Mark South: World Citizen, Net Denizen
 
"Matt O'Toole" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> dvt wrote:
>
> > Matt O'Toole wrote:

>
> >> Again, the best method [of cleaning a chain] is probably an
> >> ultrasonic parts
> > > cleaner.

> >
> > I can't argue with that.
> >
> > > I've seen
> >> suitable ones selling on eBay for under $100 -- well worth it for a
> >> lifetime cyclist. It would pay for itself in 2-3 years.

> >
> > How do you figure? What costs will be saved by using a chain cleaner?
> >
> > I like to spend $$$ on tools as much as the next tech-nerd. And I
> > think an ultrasonic cleaner would be handy on many occaions. But I
> > can't see the justification for an ultrasonic cleaner.

>
> Well, if you go through 3-4 $20 chains a year like I do -- you can cut this
> chain consumption by 2/3, in addition to the convenience and time savings. You
> can also use it for other stuff, and share with your bike-riding neighbors.
>
> Matt O.


I think you are making several assumptions here, not all of which are
valid.

1)Ultrasonic cleaning works better than other methods
2)Ultrasonic cleaned chains wear at 1/3 the rate of those cleaned by
other methods
3)Chains are ridden in their "clean" state all the time and super
clean chains aren't so afected by mud/rain/dirt as ordinarily cleaned
chains.

Assuption 3 is most open to challenge, (though assumption 2 needs
evidence to support it).

If I clean a chain one weekend then I will ride it all week before I
clean it again, so if it is wet on Monday my chain will have lots of
water/grit/mud all over it all week. It Doesn't matter how clean it
was on Sunday when I fitted it, it will still be ridden 200 miles or
so in grotty state before I get around to cleaning it again. In fact,
this is a "best case", I can rarely motivate myself to clean chains
more than fortnighty (about 400 miles). Even in the best case of
cleaning after each ride you are still putting miles on a dirty chain
while riding in poor conditions.

If you never ride in poor conditions your chain will rarely need
cleaning and do masses of miles (I have a bike I only ride in the
sunshine, I recently replaced a 1970s vintage chain - OK I only do 500
miles a year or so on this bike, and the chain was totally shot, but
the fair weather use makes the difference, not the cleaning regime).

I get about 3000 miles out of chains on all-weather bikes, but in
excess of 10,000 on my fair weather only bike (same solvent cleaning
regime).

So as I see it, clean weather bikes don't justify whizzo cleaning
processess, and all-weather bikes will only benefit if you always
clean the chain straight away after it gets wet/muddy (though you will
always do some miles with a poor condition chain). If you do that
much cleaning then just about any effective cleaning procedure will
do.

I agree that generally cleaner is better, but unless you can devise a
method to clean it as you go along then chain wear will always be
sub-optimal so the law of diminishing returns applies.

Andrew Webster
 
Any oil that will flow will eventually seep in between the rollers and
flanged sideplates. That being said, you need to apply more than just a
light spray to achieve this effect. Any lube lighter than 90W gear oil
will instantly seek the inside voids and provide immediate benefit.

With solvent based waxes like WL, this happens rapidly BUT the
evaporation of the solvent (pentane/hexane in the case of WL) is slowed
on the internals and if you lube just before riding, you get minimal
benefit as the moving surfaces pump the liquid lube out of the
internals. This is the reason many people are sworn off WL. Another
victim of failure to read and follow directions.



--
 
"Mark South" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...

> > It seems to me that keeping the inside of the chain well lubed and
> > grit free extends the life of the chain. But assuming one would
> > replace the chain at the proper level of elongation (whether that's at
> > 1500, 2500 or even 4000 miles), you'll save some money over time, but
> > the effect on cog life is neutral.

>
> It's not clear from the available evidence that one can affect the inside of the
> chain usefully between buying it and throwing it out.


WTF??? It's absolutely clear.

> The existing test quoted recently here suggested that solvents may remove
> lubrication from the inside of the chain, but that replacing that lube is
> well-nigh impossible.


Ridiculous. It might be impossible, after the chain is assembled, to
get the
exact same lube that the factory uses inside the chain after it is
assembled.
But you can definately get other lubes in there.

> > OTOH, I'd assume that a chain that is greasy/gritty on the outside is
> > constantly grinding away at cogs and chainrings. Those babies are
> > expensive and the replacement intervals should be far longer.

>
> Yes, that's why the outside of the chain should be kept as clean as possible,
> also because grit on the outside can potentially work its way inside.
>


> > Putting this all together, I would think that taking care of the
> > inside of the chain is important for extending the life of a routine
> > replacement part (the chain),

>
> Except it's unproven that one CAN take care of the inside.


Huh???? Mark where the f*ck are you getting all these ridiculous
statements?
If you immerse a chain repeatedly and the solvent turns dirty each
time
and then stops turning dirty, then obviously it has gotten clean on
the
inside. If you are not satisfied, you can bust pieces open and look
inside.
It's easy to prove and I would guess that this been proven many times
by
chain engineers, chain manufacturers, interested consumers, etc.

If, after cleaning, you relube the chain, you can easily verify that
the lube got inside the chain. For example, you could wipe the
outside
dry, then hang up the chain and watch the lube drip back out from the
inside.
Or you could immerse it in lube and watch the air bubbles rise when
you
agitate it. You could even weight the remaining lube or bust the
chain
open and look if you are still not satisfied.

From another starting point, our own jeverett tells us he got 18,500
miles plus 1/64 of an inch of stretch from a dura-ace chain. I on
the other hand oil my chains when they're dirty and get about 1000
miles on 1/16 of an inch stretch.

http://groups.google.com/groups?q=j...s.tech&[email protected]&rnum=1
Read the whole thread.

> > but taking care of the outside is just as important (or more so)
> > for extending the life of the drivetrain as a whole.

>
> Regarding the exterior of the chain, your comments are spot on. Keep it clean.


I doubt it. Evidence please? Do you have any evidence of this?
The rolling surfaces of even a very dirty chain always look clean to
me -
and I don't think that sanding the sides of a cog will hurt it much.
I suspect that the dirt on the outside of a chain contributes only
trivially to tooth wear. But I don't have any evidence so I'm not
claiming it as fact. Where is your data?

Doug
 
On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 22:51:06 +0200, "Mark South"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>"Dan Daniel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 16:40:57 +0200, "Mark South"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >
>> >Except it's unproven that one CAN take care of the inside.
>> >

>> ? This can't be hard to prove, at least as to being able to remove and
>> replace lubrication around the pins. No one has done this?

>
>Test data is eagerly awaited.



I'll take the cutoff from my last chain installation into work
tomorrow. Not sure how to test for factory lube on the pin and inside
the roller. I used a degreaser on the whole chain before cutting it,
but it wasn't soaked and sloshed. Any suggestions?

Do you think steel bluing is a good test for liquid penetration inside
the chain? I'll try that. And some thinned lacquer paint on another
piece.
 
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
writes:

>The report mentioned may not have been quite as definitive
>as everyone would like.


Why not? And, will you commit yourself with more than a "may not"?

I'll be glad to re-post my results.

I started that trial because of the authoritative "oil on a chain that hasn't
been completely cleaned will produce a grinding paste inside the chain"
statement here on the news group that was contradicted by SRAM's web site where
they advocated simply cleaning the outside using some kind of degreaser. My
first thought was the SRAM was trying to sell chains by recomending substandard
cleaning. So I started the trial with the presupposition that SRAM was wrong.
Knowing that I might (!) be biased in the measuring of the chain I drafted my
wife to confirm my measurements. In the end there was no doubt for either of
us, the "solvent thrashed" half elongated to the 1/16 mark before the wiped and
brushed half. There were a few times before the chain got to that point that
our 33 year old marriage was slightly stressed because I was sure the solvent
method was going to be the best. It's pretty easy to be off when the ruler is
measuring to 1/32 and both of us are not close focusing as well as we used to.
But in the end there was no question as we can both easily detect 1/16. And, I
had to admit I was wrong.

I encourage anyone that doubts my results to try it themselves and publish
their results. It's not hard but it does take a little time. I especially
would like to see this done in a rainy climate as this one is dry and in a
drought.

Tom Gibb <[email protected]>
 
On 11 Jun 2004 02:32:23 GMT, [email protected] (TBGibb) wrote:

>In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
>writes:
>
>>The report mentioned may not have been quite as definitive
>>as everyone would like.

>
>Why not? And, will you commit yourself with more than a "may not"?
>
>I'll be glad to re-post my results.
>
>I started that trial because of the authoritative "oil on a chain that hasn't
>been completely cleaned will produce a grinding paste inside the chain"
>statement here on the news group that was contradicted by SRAM's web site where
>they advocated simply cleaning the outside using some kind of degreaser. My
>first thought was the SRAM was trying to sell chains by recomending substandard
>cleaning. So I started the trial with the presupposition that SRAM was wrong.
>Knowing that I might (!) be biased in the measuring of the chain I drafted my
>wife to confirm my measurements. In the end there was no doubt for either of
>us, the "solvent thrashed" half elongated to the 1/16 mark before the wiped and
>brushed half. There were a few times before the chain got to that point that
>our 33 year old marriage was slightly stressed because I was sure the solvent
>method was going to be the best. It's pretty easy to be off when the ruler is
>measuring to 1/32 and both of us are not close focusing as well as we used to.
>But in the end there was no question as we can both easily detect 1/16. And, I
>had to admit I was wrong.
>
>I encourage anyone that doubts my results to try it themselves and publish
>their results. It's not hard but it does take a little time. I especially
>would like to see this done in a rainy climate as this one is dry and in a
>drought.
>
>Tom Gibb <[email protected]>


Dear Tom,

Here's a link to a post from DVT in the middle of your
original thread about your chain testing:

http://groups.google.com/groups?q=c...&[email protected]&rnum=2

In any case, DVT's "chainge" pun deserves notice.

For anyone interested in browsing the 61 posts, the page in
Google Groups offers the option to view-complete-thread.

I think that the posts support the comment that the test may
not be as definitive as everyone would like.

Briefly, you used a pair of master links to connect two
chain sections, one of which you cleaned by washing nine
times in about 2700 miles, measuring chain wear in 1/64ths
of an inch. (I won't try to recount the details of exactly
how things were washed, brushed, re-oiled, and so
forth--they're in the thread.)

Curiously, the first six pairs of measurements show that the
unwashed chain section wore noticeably faster than the
washed chain:

> Date Miles Elongation Elongation
> of washed of unwashed
> chain chain
> 07/11/03 0
>
> 07/14/03 137.1 0 0
> 07/23/03 328.6 1/64 1/64
> 08/01/03 607.24 1/64 1/64
> 08/11/03 819.71 1/64 1/64
> 09/02/03 1076.67 1/64 1/32
> 09/19/03 1430.39 1/64 1/32


Apparently, washing reduced chain wear for the first 1430
miles. The repeatedly washed chain is stubbornly showing
only 1/64th of an inch of elongation, just half as much as
the unwashed chain.

But this trend abruptly reverses in the next 370 miles after
a single washing:

> 10/23/03 1801.17 3/64 1/32


Why did the washed chain elongate twice as much in 370 miles
as it did in the previous 1430 miles? It doesn't seem to
have been a terribly abrasive period, since the unwashed
chain shows no measured wear at all during the same time.

The sudden accelerated wear disappears with the next
washing--the washed chain doesn't wear noticeably in the
next 456 miles:

> 11/07/03 2257.55 3/64 1/32


Then it wears a little in the next 484 miles:

> 01/05/04 2739.52 1/16 1/32


What the measurements seem to show is an impressive hiccup
between 1430 and 1801 miles, as if whatever was done to the
washed chain at 1430 miles tripled its wear rate--which then
returned to normal after the next washing.

It could be that the big blip in the wear rate accurately
reflects something odd in the chain-washing at 1430 miles.

It could be that the big blip in the wear rate shows that
chains wear oddly, with a sudden increase in wear as some
surface is worn away, followed by a slow-down as yet another
surface is exposed.

It could be that the tiny measurements are so tricky that
normal variation and error are responsible for what looks
like an odd pattern. After all, measuring chains to within
1/64th of an inch is the kind of exercise that high school
science teachers use to show students just how hard
seemingly simple experiments are in real life.

It could be other things, too, but the tripled wear-rate in
the 370 miles between the sixth and seventh chain washes
suggests that the extremely small measurements and slow wear
rates involved in chain-care experiments may require more
than a single test to be definitive.

Cheers,

Carl Fogel
 
On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 22:18:41 -0600, [email protected]
wrote:

>On 11 Jun 2004 02:32:23 GMT, [email protected] (TBGibb) wrote:
>
>>In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
>>writes:
>>
>>>The report mentioned may not have been quite as definitive
>>>as everyone would like.

>>
>>Why not? And, will you commit yourself with more than a "may not"?
>>
>>I'll be glad to re-post my results.
>>
>>I started that trial because of the authoritative "oil on a chain that hasn't
>>been completely cleaned will produce a grinding paste inside the chain"
>>statement here on the news group that was contradicted by SRAM's web site where
>>they advocated simply cleaning the outside using some kind of degreaser. My
>>first thought was the SRAM was trying to sell chains by recomending substandard
>>cleaning. So I started the trial with the presupposition that SRAM was wrong.
>>Knowing that I might (!) be biased in the measuring of the chain I drafted my
>>wife to confirm my measurements. In the end there was no doubt for either of
>>us, the "solvent thrashed" half elongated to the 1/16 mark before the wiped and
>>brushed half. There were a few times before the chain got to that point that
>>our 33 year old marriage was slightly stressed because I was sure the solvent
>>method was going to be the best. It's pretty easy to be off when the ruler is
>>measuring to 1/32 and both of us are not close focusing as well as we used to.
>>But in the end there was no question as we can both easily detect 1/16. And, I
>>had to admit I was wrong.
>>
>>I encourage anyone that doubts my results to try it themselves and publish
>>their results. It's not hard but it does take a little time. I especially
>>would like to see this done in a rainy climate as this one is dry and in a
>>drought.
>>
>>Tom Gibb <[email protected]>

>
>Dear Tom,
>
>Here's a link to a post from DVT in the middle of your
>original thread about your chain testing:
>
>http://groups.google.com/groups?q=c...&[email protected]&rnum=2
>
>In any case, DVT's "chainge" pun deserves notice.
>
>For anyone interested in browsing the 61 posts, the page in
>Google Groups offers the option to view-complete-thread.
>
>I think that the posts support the comment that the test may
>not be as definitive as everyone would like.
>
>Briefly, you used a pair of master links to connect two
>chain sections, one of which you cleaned by washing nine
>times in about 2700 miles, measuring chain wear in 1/64ths
>of an inch. (I won't try to recount the details of exactly
>how things were washed, brushed, re-oiled, and so
>forth--they're in the thread.)
>
>Curiously, the first six pairs of measurements show that the
>unwashed chain section wore noticeably faster than the
>washed chain:
>
>> Date Miles Elongation Elongation
>> of washed of unwashed
>> chain chain
>> 07/11/03 0
>>
>> 07/14/03 137.1 0 0
>> 07/23/03 328.6 1/64 1/64
>> 08/01/03 607.24 1/64 1/64
>> 08/11/03 819.71 1/64 1/64
>> 09/02/03 1076.67 1/64 1/32
>> 09/19/03 1430.39 1/64 1/32

>
>Apparently, washing reduced chain wear for the first 1430
>miles. The repeatedly washed chain is stubbornly showing
>only 1/64th of an inch of elongation, just half as much as
>the unwashed chain.
>
>But this trend abruptly reverses in the next 370 miles after
>a single washing:
>
>> 10/23/03 1801.17 3/64 1/32

>
>Why did the washed chain elongate twice as much in 370 miles
>as it did in the previous 1430 miles? It doesn't seem to
>have been a terribly abrasive period, since the unwashed
>chain shows no measured wear at all during the same time.
>
>The sudden accelerated wear disappears with the next
>washing--the washed chain doesn't wear noticeably in the
>next 456 miles:
>
>> 11/07/03 2257.55 3/64 1/32

>
>Then it wears a little in the next 484 miles:
>
>> 01/05/04 2739.52 1/16 1/32

>
>What the measurements seem to show is an impressive hiccup
>between 1430 and 1801 miles, as if whatever was done to the
>washed chain at 1430 miles tripled its wear rate--which then
>returned to normal after the next washing.
>
>It could be that the big blip in the wear rate accurately
>reflects something odd in the chain-washing at 1430 miles.
>
>It could be that the big blip in the wear rate shows that
>chains wear oddly, with a sudden increase in wear as some
>surface is worn away, followed by a slow-down as yet another
>surface is exposed.
>
>It could be that the tiny measurements are so tricky that
>normal variation and error are responsible for what looks
>like an odd pattern. After all, measuring chains to within
>1/64th of an inch is the kind of exercise that high school
>science teachers use to show students just how hard
>seemingly simple experiments are in real life.
>
>It could be other things, too, but the tripled wear-rate in
>the 370 miles between the sixth and seventh chain washes
>suggests that the extremely small measurements and slow wear
>rates involved in chain-care experiments may require more
>than a single test to be definitive.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Carl Fogel


Aaargh! Forgot the tinyurl to the original thread:

http://tinyurl.com/2qkzp
 
Tom Gibb writes:

> I started that trial because of the authoritative "oil on a chain
> that hasn't been completely cleaned will produce a grinding paste
> inside the chain" statement here on the news group that was
> contradicted by SRAM's web site where they advocated simply cleaning
> the outside using some kind of degreaser. My first thought was the
> SRAM was trying to sell chains by recommending substandard cleaning.
> So I started the trial with the presupposition that SRAM was wrong.
> Knowing that I might (!) be biased in the measuring of the chain I
> drafted my wife to confirm my measurements. In the end there was no
> doubt for either of us, the "solvent thrashed" half elongated to the
> 1/16 mark before the wiped and brushed half. There were a few times
> before the chain got to that point that our 33 year old marriage was
> slightly stressed because I was sure the solvent method was going to
> be the best. It's pretty easy to be off when the ruler is measuring
> to 1/32 and both of us are not close focusing as well as we used to.
> But in the end there was no question as we can both easily detect
> 1/16. And, I had to admit I was wrong.


To what do you attribute the increased wear of the one chain over the
other? Do you have faith in the statistical nature of how the two
chains were exposed to dirt during their use? How many chains were
involved in the test.

> I encourage anyone that doubts my results to try it themselves and
> publish their results. It's not hard but it does take a little
> time. I especially would like to see this done in a rainy climate
> as this one is dry and in a drought.


I think it is a reasonable test except that the test conditions change
over the seasons and chains last at about 10,000 miles on my bicycle
including summer and winter as well as a tour in the Alps with rain
and shine.

One thing is clear, my 5-part chains outlast newer 4-part chains more
than 2:1 but that's what we get for having so many and such low gears.
The 4-part chain has a higher tensile strength than the more durable
5_part chain. Alas, I have only two more of those chains that run
nicely on my "ultra-six" speed cluster.

I rinse my chains clean inside and out before oiling them if they
haven't just been cleaned by an all day ride on the road in the rain
and are squeaky clean. The chain that squeaks is not full of grit.

Jobst Brandt
[email protected]
 
Tom Gibb writes:

> I encourage anyone that doubts my results to try it themselves and
> publish their results. It's not hard but it does take a little
> time. I especially would like to see this done in a rainy climate
> as this one is dry and in a drought.


Excuse me for repeating myself but I am not entirely clear on how the
test was performed. Whether this was two halves of one chain or two
chains is not exactly clear. If it was two halves of one chain
(connected with two power-links) how did you identify the two halves?
Did you take it apart for maintenance and rinse one half in solvent
and dry it before reconnecting it to the part that was brushed off?
Was the whole chain subsequently oiled without prejudice or knowing
which part of the chain was being oiled? I usually do that on the
bicycle by running the cranks backwards while squirting oil on the
lower run before wiping off the excess. (since the chain is externally
clean, this does not constitute inter-contamination of the two halves.

Measuring the chain is pretty simple and I wouldn't expect you to
fudge that so that is not my concern. I am more interested in the
control of the test. Please give more details.

Jobst Brandt
[email protected]
 
On Fri, 11 Jun 2004 04:50:00 GMT,
[email protected] wrote:

>Tom Gibb writes:
>
>> I encourage anyone that doubts my results to try it themselves and
>> publish their results. It's not hard but it does take a little
>> time. I especially would like to see this done in a rainy climate
>> as this one is dry and in a drought.

>
>Excuse me for repeating myself but I am not entirely clear on how the
>test was performed. Whether this was two halves of one chain or two
>chains is not exactly clear. If it was two halves of one chain
>(connected with two power-links) how did you identify the two halves?
>Did you take it apart for maintenance and rinse one half in solvent
>and dry it before reconnecting it to the part that was brushed off?
>Was the whole chain subsequently oiled without prejudice or knowing
>which part of the chain was being oiled? I usually do that on the
>bicycle by running the cranks backwards while squirting oil on the
>lower run before wiping off the excess. (since the chain is externally
>clean, this does not constitute inter-contamination of the two halves.
>
>Measuring the chain is pretty simple and I wouldn't expect you to
>fudge that so that is not my concern. I am more interested in the
>control of the test. Please give more details.
>
>Jobst Brandt
>[email protected]


Dear Jobst,

The first post in this thread was where Tom described his
chain test:

http://tinyurl.com/2qkzp

Just click on view-complete-thread and go to the top.

Lots of questions about the details of the testing were
casually raised and conscientously answered, so it's worth
browsing the whole thread for Tom's replies.

Carl Fogel
 
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Tom Gibb writes:
>>Knowing that I might (!) be biased in the measuring of the chain I
>>drafted my wife to confirm my measurements. In the end there was no
>>doubt for either of us, the "solvent thrashed" half elongated to the
>>1/16 mark before the wiped and brushed half.

>To what do you attribute the increased wear of the one chain over the
>other? Do you have faith in the statistical nature of how the two
>chains were exposed to dirt during their use?


As I understand it he used one chain only, and treated the two halves
differently at cleaning time; hence they must have been exposed to the same
dirt and weather conditions.
--
David Damerell <[email protected]> Kill the tomato!
 
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] writes:

>To what do you attribute the increased wear of the one chain over the
>other? Do you have faith in the statistical nature of how the two
>chains were exposed to dirt during their use? How many chains were
>involved in the test.


There was only one chain involved. It was divided into two portions by the use
of a "master" link ("SRAM Power link"). Each half got exactly the same use
while it was on the bike.

Tom Gibb <[email protected]>
 
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] writes:

>Excuse me for repeating myself but I am not entirely clear on how the
>test was performed. Whether this was two halves of one chain or two
>chains is not exactly clear. If it was two halves of one chain
>(connected with two power-links) how did you identify the two halves?


One "half" had one more link than the other so it was easy to identify. I had
also, before I realized that I was going to have slightly different lengths,
marked a rivet with a dremel cut off tool. So I did know which was which. But
once re-assembled the two chain halves were used as one chain on my
beater/commuter bike.

>Did you take it apart for maintenance and rinse one half in solvent
>and dry it before reconnecting it to the part that was brushed off?


Yes.

>Was the whole chain subsequently oiled without prejudice or knowing
>which part of the chain was being oiled? I usually do that on the
>bicycle by running the cranks backwards while squirting oil on the
>lower run before wiping off the excess. (since the chain is externally
>clean, this does not constitute inter-contamination of the two halves.


That is how I oiled the chains.
>
>Measuring the chain is pretty simple and I wouldn't expect you to
>fudge that so that is not my concern. I am more interested in the
>control of the test. Please give more details.


The measuring was more difficult than I had hoped. I cut a kerf in a 2X4 and
put a pin at the top of the kerf. The chain hung from the pin with a five
pound weight on the other end. This was constant throughout. The ruler could
be placed on the wood with the edge resting right on top of the chain as the
rivets were flush with the surface of the 2X4. It was still difficult to
exactly place the "0" mark exactly on the upper edge of a rivet, we wound up
holding a light over each other's shoulders to assist. The ruler is a 15 inch
steel rule (purchased expressly for this trial), so I had reference marks past
the 12 inch mark.

Does that cover what you are interested in?

Again, to anyone, I would very much like to see others try this. One trial is
not enough, but it provided something more than opinion. I was cleaning all my
chains by the solvent method because of what seemed to be sound advice (and
I've gotten a lot of sound advice here that stands up to the test of time) from
this newsgroup.

Tom Gibb <[email protected]>