Chains are commodities?

[tornado42]

I've purchased a Trek 1000 (price was a major factor) last year to help rehab knees after years of ice hockey abuse. Cycling is fast becoming more enjoyable than my other activities. I have searched this forum for chain discussions and after much reading I've discovered some helpful tips on when to replace a chain so thank you all for the indirect help you have been. One comment struck me though. (paraphrasing) Chains are cheap as old chips these days--commodities. So without intending to stir any pots, is this true? Are there things I should be looking for (not brand-names just concepts) when replacing my chain? It would seem to me that this is perhaps the most important part of the transfer of energy from your legs to your wheels so it is a crucial piece of equipment. Your help is greatly appreciated.

Paul--Colorado Cyclist

 

[boudreaux]

I've purchased a Trek 1000 (price was a major factor) last year to help rehab knees after years of ice hockey abuse. Cycling is fast becoming more enjoyable than my other activities. I have searched this forum for chain discussions and after much reading I've discovered some helpful tips on when to replace a chain so thank you all for the indirect help you have been. One comment struck me though. (paraphrasing) Chains are cheap as old chips these days--commodities. So without intending to stir any pots, is this true? Are there things I should be looking for (not brand-names just concepts) when replacing my chain? It would seem to me that this is perhaps the most important part of the transfer of energy from your legs to your wheels so it is a crucial piece of equipment. Your help is greatly appreciated.

Paul--Colorado Cyclist

Mid level Sram with a power link is good comodity.

 

[mises]

I've purchased a Trek 1000 (price was a major factor) last year to help rehab knees after years of ice hockey abuse. Cycling is fast becoming more enjoyable than my other activities. I have searched this forum for chain discussions and after much reading I've discovered some helpful tips on when to replace a chain so thank you all for the indirect help you have been. One comment struck me though. (paraphrasing) Chains are cheap as old chips these days--commodities. So without intending to stir any pots, is this true? Are there things I should be looking for (not brand-names just concepts) when replacing my chain? It would seem to me that this is perhaps the most important part of the transfer of energy from your legs to your wheels so it is a crucial piece of equipment. Your help is greatly appreciated.

Paul--Colorado Cyclist

$6 Sedisport chains in the 80's were a commodity. I didn't even bother to clean them, just bought a new one instead. $40-60 chains are not a commodity item.

KMC chains are my favorite. Very smooth and quiet. Have about 500km on a KMC X10SL and it's much better than campy or wipperman, plus it weighs less too.

 

[Cyclist14]

One of my teamates broke his almost new 10sp chain while climbing a hill and barely avoided going down ( Out of the Saddle, In a large group of riders). 10sp shimano chains seem really weak and delicate and the 10sp system is actually heavier than most 9sp systems. In other words I think 9sp is better and 9sp chains are cheaper and easier to replace.

 

[hwttdz]

Carry a sram powerlink, which is only a few bucks, $4 ish, and it might save you from having to walk. Or ride with a friend who you can hold on to and tow you home...not really I've done both but the first is a better idea.

 

[dhk]

One of my teamates broke his almost new 10sp chain while climbing a hill and barely avoided going down ( Out of the Saddle, In a large group of riders). 10sp shimano chains seem really weak and delicate and the 10sp system is actually heavier than most 9sp systems. In other words I think 9sp is better and 9sp chains are cheaper and easier to replace.

I'm not a big fan of Shimano, but my guess is the chain was not installed correctly, or maybe had a manufacturing defect. Shimano didn't invest many millions in the 10 sp system without testing the chain; a 10 speed chain can withstand many times the load the strongest rider can put on it.

 

[Doctor Morbius]

I've purchased a Trek 1000 (price was a major factor) last year to help rehab knees after years of ice hockey abuse. Cycling is fast becoming more enjoyable than my other activities. I have searched this forum for chain discussions and after much reading I've discovered some helpful tips on when to replace a chain so thank you all for the indirect help you have been. One comment struck me though. (paraphrasing) Chains are cheap as old chips these days--commodities. So without intending to stir any pots, is this true? Are there things I should be looking for (not brand-names just concepts) when replacing my chain? It would seem to me that this is perhaps the most important part of the transfer of energy from your legs to your wheels so it is a crucial piece of equipment. Your help is greatly appreciated.

Paul--Colorado Cyclist

A chain suitable for a Trek 1000 or every day training is a commodity item and shouldn't run you over $15. If it does you paid too much.

Here are the definitive words on chain maintenance and when to replace a chain. This should really be a sticky due to so many chain questions.

Sheldon Brown:
http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

Lennard Zinn - Everything you ever wanted to know about dirty chains:
http://www.velonews.com/tech/report/articles/5610.0.html
Very good article! Suggests replacing at 1/16" stretch.

Lennard Zinn - Chain wear:
http://www.velonews.com/tech/report/articles/5457.0.html
Suggests replacing at 1,500 miles and before 1/8" stretch.

Park Tool - CC-3 Chain Checker:
http://www.parktool.com/tools/CC_3.shtml
The CC-3 is a "Go, No-Go" gauge designed to accurately indicate when a chain reaches 0.75% and 1% wear.

CC-3 here for $10:
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?...and=&sku=11164&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=