cone bearing adjustment - weird 'problem?'

one bike i have has sora hubs. about 6000 miles.

the other has shimano 600/ultegra. about 3-4000 miles.

i noticed on both of them lately that if you really wrench the back wheel, you can get it to kind of
move about 1-2mm.

what you have to do is grab the seat stay with one hand, and the wheel with the other, and either
push or pull hard, i would estimate at least 25-30 lbs force.

this is the same type of play as the kind you have when the bearing cones are too loose - except it
takes a LOT more force to produce it.

i am familiar with the normal cone bearing play that you have to get out when the QRs are tightened
down.. this is a very loose easily produced type of play, compared to what i am talking about.

i didn;t notice this after trying to adjust the bearings either, for some reason i happened to be
trying something that put a lot of force on the wheel and it kind of clunked over, then i noticed i
could force it back to another position back.

it will 'stick' in the position you leave it in til you do that again.

and - you can;t tighten the cones enough to get it out, the bearings will stick before that.

so what does this mean?

do i suddenly need new hubs, on 2 bikes? seems unlikely..

they seemed fine before, or else i just didn;t wrench the wheel hard enough to notice.

the front wheels don;t do this.

wle.

 

wle wrote:
>> i noticed on both of them lately that if you
> really wrench the back wheel, you can get it to kind of move about 1-2mm.

Could it be the axles moving in the dropouts?

 

"Jacobe Hazzard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Could it be the axles moving in the dropouts?

Yep, could be grooves or some other problem with the dropout. Could be the axle is protruding too
far through the dropout and the QR is clamping the actual axle rather than the dropout. Could also
be your bearing races have separated from the hub. They're pressed in and can break loose. You'd
need to disassemble and carefully check for this.

Cheers,

Scott..

 

On 5 Mar 2004 11:06:28 -0800, [email protected] (wle) may have said:

>it will 'stick' in the position you leave it in til you do that again.

This is a Clue, in my opinion.

>and - you can;t tighten the cones enough to get it out, the bearings will stick before that.
>
>so what does this mean?

Check the adjustment of the skewers. I think you need a teensy bit more clamping force in there. If
you're not using Shimano skewers, you might want to get some.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

 

wle wrote:
> one bike i have has sora hubs. about 6000 miles. the other has shimano
> 600/ultegra. about 3-4000 miles. i noticed on both of them lately that if you
> really wrench the back wheel, you can get it to kind of move about 1-2mm. what
> you have to do is grab the seat stay with one hand, and the wheel with the
> other, and either push or pull hard, i would estimate at least 25-30 lbs force.
> this is the same type of play as the kind you have when the bearing cones are
> too loose - except it takes a LOT more force to produce it.
-snip-

Is the axle moving in the frame ends from a not-quite-locked skewer?

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971

 

A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...

>
> Is the axle moving in the frame ends from a not-quite-
> locked skewer?

that is a good question, it does feel more like that than a
bearing play issue.

the thing is, i have been REALLY tightening the qr skewers,
in an attempt to get rid of this.

possibly the ends of the axle are moving anyway, but it;s
hard to see how.

if that is the reason, would that be because they are too
long, or too short?

the sora bike is entirely stock, as it came from fuji.
so i would expect it not to have any weird problems.

the gt bike, with the shimano 600 hubs, i am actually using
a washer under the non-lever side of the skewer nut, so the
nut can;t get partly into the dropout. possibly this has the
effect of making that axle 'too short'.

i don;t think it;s the bearing races coming unpressed,
though that is another thing to check.

wle.

 

If you have a 10mm allen wrench check to see if the bolt
that joins the freehub to the hub is loose.

 

[email protected] (charles ramsey) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> If you have a 10mm allen wrench check to see if the bolt
> that joins the freehub to the hub is loose.

i think that was it.

it didn;t seem loose, in either case, but i tightened it
more anyway.

of course to get to that you have to take the cassette and
put it back, as well as re-do the cone adjustments, so that
may have been a factor too.

thanks!

wle.