Convert hybrid to road bike.

[Tinmanx]

Hi,

I was wondering, can I convert my Trek hybrid bike into a
road bike just by changing the handlebar to a drop-down
handlebar?

--Francis

 

[Paul Southworth]

In article <[email protected]>,
TinManX <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I was wondering, can I convert my Trek hybrid bike into a
>road bike just by changing the handlebar to a drop-down
>handlebar?

You will need stem, handlebars, brake levers, shifters and
handlebar tape. Get a cable set if not included with the
new parts. If the hybrid bike uses linear-pull brakes then
you will probably also need a doodad which corrects the
cable pull so the brakes work properly, unless you buy
road bike brake levers designed for use with v-brakes or
replace the v-brakes with cantilevers. This is a pretty
expensive change.

 

[Badger]

On Sat, 29 May 2004 19:06:44 -0700, "TinManX" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Hi,
>
>I was wondering, can I convert my Trek hybrid bike into a
>road bike just by changing the handlebar to a drop-down
>handlebar?
>
>--Francis
>

What kind of Trek hybrid do you have? If it's not one of
the FX versions, i.e. without the front suspension forks,
I'd advise getting a Trek 1200 road bike and just pass the
hybrid down, or use it as your backup bike. Everyone needs
a backup bike, in case the reg. bike is in the shop, etc.,
and converting a 'heavy' hybrid to a road bike will work
cross purposes.

-Badger

 

[Herbie Jurvanen]

In <[email protected]>, Badger wrote:

> What kind of Trek hybrid do you have? If it's not one of
> the FX versions,
> i.e. without the front suspension forks, I'd advise
> getting a Trek 1200 road bike and just pass the
> hybrid down, or use it as your backup bike.

On the other hand, somebody on a budget who has a hybrid but
who wants a "road bike" may find handlebar conversion an
appealing option. Not everybody can just go out and buy a
$800 second bike.

> Everyone needs a backup bike, in case the reg. bike is in
> the shop, etc., and converting a 'heavy' hybrid to a road
> bike will work cross purposes.

It depends on what the original poster meant by "road bike."
I'm speaking up because I actually did this myself with a
hybrid when I finally got fed up with the hybrid's bars.
$190 bought drop bars, quill stem, brake levers, bar-ends
and shop time and now the thing is more or less a touring
bike, and something like that may (or may not) be enough for
the OP's needs.

--
Herbie J. Famous Curator

 

[Badger_south]

On 31 May 2004 06:38:58 GMT, Herbie Jurvanen <[email protected]> wrote:

>In <[email protected]>,
>Badger wrote:
>
>> What kind of Trek hybrid do you have? If it's not one of
>> the FX versions,
>> i.e. without the front suspension forks, I'd advise
>> getting a Trek 1200 road bike and just pass the
>> hybrid down, or use it as your backup bike.
>
>On the other hand, somebody on a budget who has a hybrid
>but who wants a "road bike" may find handlebar conversion
>an appealing option. Not everybody can just go out and buy
>a $800 second bike.

Uh, well, 'listen' to my reply. Suspension forked hybrid -
fergeddaboutit,
b/c you're going for racing characteristics, or speed and
"road bike" with the drops. Road bikes don't have no
stinkin' suspension forks.

Get an "actual road bike" entry level if you must (Fuji?
Trek 1200?)

That way you can 'correct' the mistake (IMO) of getting
front fork suspension (which only adds weight to a bike).

However, if a non-suspension version (already reasonably
light), then convert away as you have indicated, for only
$200 bucks.

I'm thinking of exploring putting aero-bars on my hybrid
(7500FX Trek). That might cost $100 for the additional
cabling and labor plus the bar.

>> Everyone needs a backup bike, in case the reg. bike is in
>> the shop, etc., and converting a 'heavy' hybrid to a road
>> bike will work cross purposes.
>
>It depends on what the original poster meant by "road
>bike." I'm speaking up because I actually did this myself
>with a hybrid when I finally got fed up with the hybrid's
>bars. $190 bought drop bars, quill stem, brake levers, bar-
>ends and shop time and now the thing is more or less a
>touring bike, and something like that may (or may not) be
>enough for the OP's needs.

But, surely you already have a back up bike?

Thx for the pricing info.

-Badger

 

[Rick Onanian]

On Sun, 30 May 2004 02:58:47 GMT, [email protected]
(Paul Southworth) wrote:
>TinManX <[email protected]> wrote:
>>I was wondering, can I convert my Trek hybrid bike into a
>>road bike just by changing the handlebar to a drop-down
>>handlebar?
>
>You will need stem, handlebars, brake levers, shifters and
>handlebar tape. Get a cable set if not included with the
>new parts. If the

It would, actually, be possible to use the flat-bar controls
on a drop bar, but they would be out of reach in most
positions. Getting proper brake levers (and, as you said,
adapter if necessary) makes it reasonable. Reaching up to
the tops for the flat-bar shifters would be no worse than
reaching down to the ends for barcons.

Why the stem? Most two-bolt stems are happy with flat or
drop bars (whose diameter differs by barely more than half a
millimeter).
--
Rick Onanian

 

[Rick Onanian]

On Mon, 31 May 2004 10:29:10 -0400, Badger_South <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I'm thinking of exploring putting aero-bars on my hybrid
>(7500FX Trek). That might cost $100 for the additional
>cabling and labor plus the bar.

Cabling? Most people adding aerobars don't put any
controls on them.
--
Rick Onanian

 

[Badger_south]

On Mon, 31 May 2004 12:37:51 -0400, Rick Onanian <[email protected]> wrote:

>On Mon, 31 May 2004 10:29:10 -0400, Badger_South
><[email protected]> wrote:
>>I'm thinking of exploring putting aero-bars on my hybrid
>>(7500FX Trek). That might cost $100 for the additional
>>cabling and labor plus the bar.
>
>Cabling? Most people adding aerobars don't put any
>controls on them.

OK, what about brakes? Looks like the ones I see on the
Triathlons on OLN (Outdoor Life Network) are fiddling
with something out at the ends; figured it was brakes,
or shifters.

Isn't it difficult to suddenly jump back from the 'aero
position', both arms in the center and elbows resting on the
pads to grab a brake lever if you have a surprise car pull
out or something?

-B

 

[Herbie Jurvanen]

In <[email protected]>, Badger_South wrote:

>>> What kind of Trek hybrid do you have? If it's not one of
>>> the FX versions,
>>> i.e. without the front suspension forks, I'd advise
>>> getting a Trek 1200 road bike and just pass the
>>> hybrid down, or use it as your backup bike.
>>
>>On the other hand, somebody on a budget who has a hybrid
>>but who wants a "road bike" may find handlebar conversion
>>an appealing option. Not everybody can just go out and buy
>>a $800 second bike.
>
> Uh, well, 'listen' to my reply. Suspension forked hybrid -
> fergeddaboutit,
> b/c you're going for racing characteristics, or speed and
> "road bike" with the drops.

Sorry, I mis-parsed your reply because I thought your i.e.
clause expanded upon "not one of the FX versions" rather
than simply "the FX versions."

> Road bikes don't have no stinkin' suspension forks.

I agree, even if certain companies don't: http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/04/ce/model-
4RS8.html

--
Herbie J. Famous Curator

 

[David Kerber]

In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> On Mon, 31 May 2004 12:37:51 -0400, Rick Onanian
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >On Mon, 31 May 2004 10:29:10 -0400, Badger_South
> ><[email protected]> wrote:
> >>I'm thinking of exploring putting aero-bars on my hybrid
> >>(7500FX Trek). That might cost $100 for the additional
> >>cabling and labor plus the bar.
> >
> >Cabling? Most people adding aerobars don't put any
> >controls on them.
>
> OK, what about brakes? Looks like the ones I see on the
> Triathlons on OLN (Outdoor Life Network) are fiddling with
> something out at the ends; figured it was brakes, or
> shifters.

If you're putting pure aero bars, yes there are controls;
usually shifters on the ends of the projecting arms, and
brakes on the wider spaced handles which are used for turns.
But "clip-ons" (which are what you add to standard
handlebars) usually don't have controls on them. Sometimes
shifters, but even that's not that common.

> Isn't it difficult to suddenly jump back from the 'aero
> position', both arms in the center and elbows resting on
> the pads to grab a brake lever if you have a surprise car
> pull out or something?

You just don't use them when you might need them in that
situation; save them for long runs with little to no cross-
traffic. When you're down on the bars, you have little
control anyway, so you would need to switch positions just
to keep the bike in the correct position in the lane as you
slow down.

--
Dave Kerber Fight spam: remove the ns_ from the return
address before replying!

REAL programmers write self-modifying code.

 

[Rick Onanian]

On Mon, 31 May 2004 12:49:05 -0400, Badger_South <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Mon, 31 May 2004 12:37:51 -0400, Rick Onanian
><[email protected]> wrote:
>>Cabling? Most people adding aerobars don't put any
>>controls on them.
>
>OK, what about brakes? Looks like the ones I see on the
>Triathlons on OLN (Outdoor Life Network) are fiddling with
>something out at the ends; figured it was brakes, or
>shifters.

Shifters. That's for triathlons and TTs, though, not general
purpose riding.

>Isn't it difficult to suddenly jump back from the 'aero
>position', both arms in the center and elbows resting on
>the pads to grab a brake lever if you have a surprise car
>pull out or something?

Not that hard, although I wouldn't ride without my hands on
the brakes in a paceline. Steering is so touchy on the
aerobars that brakes are the least of your problems if you
have a surprise car.

That said, if you think you can mantain control while
braking from the aerobars, at least get in-line levers
that don't make you remove your regular levers. You'll
want the regular levers when you're off the aerobars much
more than you'll want the auxilliary levers when you're on
the aerobars.
--
Rick Onanian

 

[Kaputnik]

I converted an unsuspended hybrid about 9 or 10 years ago. I
found used brake levers, drop bars, and a road stem, so that
didn't cost too much, and I bought SunTour accushifters, no
longer available, which mount on the bars near the brake
levers. I've still got it, and it is a reliable commuting
bike that I've even used a little for loaded touring. It's
kind of heavy, though, and I have lighter road bikes if I
just want to go out and have fun.

Herbie Jurvanen <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]
wugs.net>... (snip)

>I actually did this myself with a hybrid when I finally got
>fed up with the hybrid's bars. $190 bought drop bars, quill
>stem, brake levers, bar-ends and shop time and now the
>thing is more or less a touring bike, and something like
>that may (or may not) be enough for the OP's needs.

 

[Badger_south]

On Mon, 31 May 2004 13:27:29 -0400, David Kerber <ns_dkerber@ns_ids.net> wrote:

>> OK, what about brakes? Looks like the ones I see on the
>> Triathlons on OLN (Outdoor Life Network) are fiddling
>> with something out at the ends; figured it was brakes, or
>> shifters.
>
>If you're putting pure aero bars, yes there are controls;
>usually shifters on the ends of the projecting arms, and
>brakes on the wider spaced handles which are used for
>turns. But "clip-ons" (which are what you add to standard
>handlebars) usually don't have controls on them. Sometimes
>shifters, but even that's not that common.

OK, Thanks DK. Makes perfect sense, and looking at the bars
at Bike Nashbar, I'm now going 'doh'. ;-p

Have you ever tried those kinds of bars? Experiences?
Recommends (adjustable? Flip up elbow pads?)

-B

 

[Badger_south]

On Mon, 31 May 2004 15:22:23 -0400, Rick Onanian <[email protected]> wrote:

>Not that hard, although I wouldn't ride without my hands on
>the brakes in a paceline. Steering is so touchy on the
>aerobars that brakes are the least of your problems if you
>have a surprise car.
>
>That said, if you think you can mantain control while
>braking from the aerobars, at least get in-line levers that
>don't make you remove your regular levers. You'll want the
>regular levers when you're off the aerobars much more than
>you'll want the auxilliary levers when you're on the
>aerobars.

This is what I was thinking, but I'm still getting the
feel of the new bike, so it may be prudent to wait for a
few months.

At this point, riding over an hour, at 16-17mph, (with some
speedplay up to 24mph ) everything on the bike seems
perfectly smooth, no pains in arms, neck. Butt isn't sore
anymore; in fact within moments of dismounting I feel
perfectly normal, not even tired - despite riding harder by
a significant degree this week than last (on old bike).

-B

 

[Rick Onanian]

On Mon, 31 May 2004 20:15:38 -0400, Badger_South <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Have you ever tried those kinds of bars? Experiences?
>Recommends (adjustable? Flip up elbow pads?)

I have Syntace C2 clip-ons on my road bike:
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?&sku=3194

and Profile clip-ons on my TT bike similar to their Split
Second http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?&sku=2624 except
they don't flip up.

I've only used the Syntace much; the Profile hasn't seen
much use yet. It (the Profile) doesn't seem like a comfort
bar, though, definitely an aggressive racing bar. The pads
curl up to contain your arms within a narrow space, to
keep you aero.

Anyway, the Syntace C2 gets a big thumbs up from me. I
thought I was going to hate the fact that the pads don't
flip up. Turns out, the pads are anatomically shaped to be
held like handlebars, and they sit pretty high above the bar
too; and, you can get a 1" lifter that puts the whole thing
higher (if you want it higher), which then really gives you
access to your bar tops. The end result is about a million
hand positions.

Hand positions include holding the pads like the tops of the
handlebar, holding the pads similar but with the palms of
the hands facing towards eachother instead of towards your
torso, wrists on the pads and hands on the bar's forward or
diagonal projection, forearms on the pads and hands holding
the up-legs in various ways, or forearms/elbows on the pads
and hands wrapped over top of up-legs. Neato.

Adjustability is good on the Syntace. You can move the pads
laterally, as well as spacing the bars closer or farther
from eachother, giving you both total width and arm angle
adjustment.

I bought them because they're lightweight and have good
reviews. I had no idea the pads were so nicely shaped for
gripping a variety of ways, or that the pads could be
adjusted laterally.

The instructions make reference to charts on the retail box.
The charts are not necessary; the same information is
available with some googling. There is also, IIRC, some sort
of cutout for positioning. I bought mine from Cambria Bike,
and they didn't come in the retail box, but it didn't end up
being a problem.
--
Rick Onanian

 

[David Kerber]

In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> On Mon, 31 May 2004 13:27:29 -0400, David Kerber
> <ns_dkerber@ns_ids.net> wrote:
>
> >> OK, what about brakes? Looks like the ones I see on the
> >> Triathlons on OLN (Outdoor Life Network) are fiddling
> >> with something out at the ends; figured it was brakes,
> >> or shifters.
> >
> >If you're putting pure aero bars, yes there are controls;
> >usually shifters on the ends of the projecting arms, and
> >brakes on the wider spaced handles which are used for
> >turns. But "clip-ons" (which are what you add to standard
> >handlebars) usually don't have controls on them.
> >Sometimes shifters, but even that's not that common.
>
> OK, Thanks DK. Makes perfect sense, and looking at the
> bars at Bike Nashbar, I'm now going 'doh'. ;-p
>
> Have you ever tried those kinds of bars? Experiences?
> Recommends (adjustable? Flip up elbow pads?)

Yep, I've got a set of Profile clip-ons with the flip-up spring-
loaded elbow pads, and really like them. They're really nice
with you want to get the weight completely off your hands
while staying aero, or just want yet another position to
keep things interesting. They do add some weight, so if
you're on a very hilly ride you might want to pull them off.

--
Remove the ns_ from if replying by e-mail (but keep posts in
the newsgroups if possible).

 

[Badger_south]

On Mon, 31 May 2004 21:52:12 -0400, Rick Onanian <[email protected]> wrote:

>Anyway, the Syntace C2 gets a big thumbs up from me. I
>thought I was going to hate the fact that the pads don't
>flip up. Turns out, the pads are anatomically shaped to be
>held like handlebars, and they sit pretty high above the
>bar too; and, you can get a 1" lifter that puts the whole
>thing higher (if you want it higher), which then really
>gives you access to your bar tops. The end result is about
>a million hand positions.

Thx - 10e6! ;-)

I'm heading out to ride in Seashore State Park, here in Va
beach. Low 70s, nice day for it, 'cept too high humidity.

-Badger

 

[Ben A Gozar]

Maybe a silly question of the unimformed, but here
goes anyway.

OP has hybrid and wants to turn it into a different style of
bicycle. If OP does not want the change permanently is it
possible to double up on the cabling somehow?

Perhaps move the gearing selectors to a position where
handlebar shape doesn't matter then running two sets of
brake cables to the same brake(s), or running a long enough
set of brake cables they could perform double duty dependant
on the handlebar?

It seemed possible as I daydreamed away at work today,
though I do not really know if it is feasable. Just a
thought....

 

[Rick Onanian]

On 1 Jun 2004 23:56:21 GMT, Ben A Gozar <[email protected]> wrote:
>Maybe a silly question of the unimformed, but here
>goes anyway.
>
>OP has hybrid and wants to turn it into a different style
>of bicycle. If OP does not want the change permanently is
>it possible to double up on the cabling somehow?

There are quick-release cable fittings. I've considered this
for using the same bike for different purposes; have a
complete handlebar setup, attached to a threadless stem, and
just use the quick-couplers and easy stem to change the
whole front end in two minutes time.

>Perhaps move the gearing selectors to a position where
>handlebar shape doesn't matter then running two sets of
>brake cables to the same brake(s), or running a long enough
>set of brake cables they could perform double duty
>dependant on the handlebar?

Downtube shifters, or stem-mounted. Add a coaster brake and
change handlebars every five minutes as you please.

>It seemed possible as I daydreamed away at work today,
>though I do not really know if it is feasable. Just a
>thought....

Could work the way you describe it.
--
Rick Onanian