Help Choosing First Bike!?

[alfeng]

Quote by dumbass:
"BUT, are you sure you want to continue to disparage ME when you were wrong about the Ultra Torque crank installation?!?"

Alf, you dumbshit, you 'disparaged' yourself. No one did a damned thing but try to get you to shut the Hell up with your moronic and just plain wrong ******** 'advice'.

And you are still ****ing clueless.

The Emonda is a Winter beater bought for abuse in Ohio Winters. Road salt, grit and roads in even crappier shape than normal. I also own a box full of Zeus, Triplex Sport, Modolo and other assorted ****. Big woop, you dipshit. I also own Huret and Simplex **** not good enough to line a catbox with, you idiot. What to make something of it?, dickface?

I wasn't talking about the shifters, you moron.The LOOK house brand rings looked like SCRAM at a glance. I would apologize for the error, but it's more appropriate to just tell you to **** off, you complete ****ing worthless dumbass.

Yes, Alf, you retard...it's an error. You will NOT see me sit here for 8 pages trying to type a bunch of complete ****ing moronic horse ****...like you did...in some retarded ****ing defense of it. You ****ing retard.​

Now, go **** yourself and shove your make believe "Air Gap Hirth Joint" up your ass, you ****ing asshat jerk.

GEEZ ...

You seem to be getting more-and-more erratic in both your thinking AND in your replies ...

Regardless, I am not the individual who disparages Shimano and then turns around and buys a Shimano-equipped bike!

Winter Bike? Mine simply has my hand-me-down-to-my-other-bikes Campagnolo components.

I am not the one who cannot do simple arithmetic ...

Now, as is necessary for 'full disclosure', I have found that two-out-of-two frames with Italian threaded BBs needed a thin shim to "fix" the Ultra Torque BB cups to the proper measurement. AND ALLOW my UT crank's Q-FACTOR to only be the ideal 144.5mm rather than the kluged 145.5mm dimension!

I am still confident that one day you will have an epiphany and figure it out ...

AND, that you will stop acting as if YOU ARE CLUELESS.

My Hirth Joint will do another metric today...as long as Alf doesn't tweak some mythological '1 MM Air Gap' into in after faking a measurement of the Q-Factor.

HEY!?!

What happened to your Émonda?

 

[CAMPYBOB]

Quote by Alf:
"You seem to be getting more-and-more erratic in both your thinking AND in your replies ..."

No, Alf. Ever since your multi-page moronic postings on C60's thread I've been quite consistent in knowing your are utterly insane. Did you eat a lot of lead paint chips as a child?


"Winter Bike?"

Yeah. I know that concept, like most others, escapes your brilliant scientific mind that's so steeped in engineering solutions to imagined problems the entire forum is still laughing at you.



"What happened to your Émonda?"

It's gathering dust. But, so are 15 other Campy equipped bikes from the 1970's, 1980's, 1990's, 200x's and 201x's. When the roads are shitty, I'll bring out the shitty shitmaNO **** to deal with it.

 

[CAMPYBOB]

Forgive me for not addressing your points earlier. My chain needed cleaning.


Quote by Swami"
A set of chainrings does not a chainset make."

Actually it does. You Engrish continue to utilize the term "CHAINset". Well, what is the component part and most important part of the CHAINset and the part that actually interfaces with the CHAIN and influences, more so than anything else, how the CHAINset functions and shifts?

That's right, Sparky, the CHAINrings.

But, you already knew that and enjoy splitting hairs while grasping at straws with your strwaman argument.




"The cheapest CAAD8 has FSA arms and chainrings. The CAAD12 does have FSA chainrings."

I fixed that for you.

And in case you missed it...which you obviously did...the CAAD12 Disco also utilizes the FSA BB30 Bottom Bracket.

Bottom Bracket:
FSA BB30 Bearings

So, from inside to outside...it's a freaking FSA crankset with some el cheapo non-matching house brand arms tossed in to save a buck and increase profits.




"Saddles are very personal choice, a bit like pedals. Unlike pedals, you can't really sell a bike without a saddle. I don't know of a production bike that comes with my saddle of choice."

Yeah. No one sells your favorite 14" vibrator.




"It seems ironic that someone keeps bad mouthing Shimano stuff, yet he's the only one that has a full Shimano groupset. Weird."



At least I get to fairly evaluate every component in the shitty shitmaNO lineup running exactly the way the Fukishima Engineers designed it to operate. Craptastically.



"I don't have Shimano cranks."

After blowing all your money (and half the clientele) down at the Blue Oyster Bar I'm not surprised you are stuck with a low-end FSA crankset.



"If you would have read anything I've written in the past decade..."

No thanks. Alf has me laughing too hard as it is.



"I have FSA cranks, exactly as you pictured...".

Sorry to hear. I'll donate to your "Please Buy Me A Real Crankset" GoFundMe account.

 

[cyclintom]

You get the whole shimaNO 105 group with TREK. No Tektro brakes or house brand crankset or down-market shimaNO components that save the manufacturer a buck or twelve worth of profit. And 105 is decent stuff on any entry level bike. shimaNO pedals are really what I like best of the shimaNO stuff. They's stabile and comfortable mile after mile. I have a carbon Emonda and it's kind of dead feeling, but stiff and a good climber. It descends accurately and shoots through corners well.

I do not care for the tall head tube (170 MM in the 56 CM size) and I had to order a lower top cover for the headset and slam the bars and I think I could still be 5 to 10 MM lower up front. You might think of getting a frame a size smaller if you want the racer's aero position on the bike...age, flexibility, riding style and preference really matter in this fit area.

The Bontrager wheels on the TREK are a bit on the heavy side and are noticeably slower to spin up under power than even my cheap Mavic Aksiums. Disc wheels may be just a bit heavier than rim brake wheels and the combination of poorer aero and weight may make the disc rigs a bit slower or you may not notice any loss of speed at all, depending on how you ride, how fast you intended to go, etc. There's a lot to balance out on a bike, detail wise, and the brakes are just one area the test ride is going to answer your questions best for YOU.

The CAAD is a conventional horizontal top tube design, the TREK is semi-compact and the GIANT is a compact rig. Look at the fit of all three carefully and test ride one of each in your size for at least 1/2 hour per test ride.

The disc brakes will come in handy for wet commuting and if screaming down mountain descents with lots of braking is in your plans, the disc setup will work a little better.

All three brands will be good quality and the aluminum frames will be pretty durable and suffer abuse a little better than carbon fiber. The Giant is perhaps the most bang for the buck, but I rate the TREK a better value just going by components.

Try all three and see which fits you best and feels best under you. Remember that the OEM seats may or may not be a good match to your backside and that seats are the most 'tossed in the spare parts box' item on a new bike. Stem length changes are often called for and don't be afraid to ask the dealer to raise/lower/rotate the bars for your test ride.

We are in complete agreement concerning 105 manual.

 

[aih312]

Ah, the age-old question of "which bike is the best?" It's a topic that's been debated since the invention of the bicycle, and I'm sure it will continue to be debated long after we're all gone. But let me try my best to offer some insight.

You've listed three bikes, all of which have their own unique features and benefits. However, as a seasoned cyclist who's been through more bikes than I can count, I can tell you that there's no such thing as a "perfect" bike. It all depends on your personal preferences and needs.

Take the Cannondale Cadd 12 disc 105, for example. It's a solid choice, but the disc brakes might not be necessary for your commuting needs. And while the Trek Emonda ALR 5 is a lightweight and fast option, it might not be as durable as the Giant Defy Disc 1.

But ultimately, it's up to you to decide which bike is the best fit. I'm just here to offer some food for thought. And if anyone else has some thoughts or opinions on the matter, I'd love to hear them. After all, the more opinions, the better!

 

[protour]

While all three bikes are solid choices, the Cannondale CAAD12 Disc 105 stands out for its responsiveness and handling. However, if you're commuting, consider the Trek Emonda ALR 5 for its comfort and versatility. The Giant Defy Disc 1 is also a good option, but it's a bit heavier than the other two. Don't let disc brakes be the sole deciding factor, as all three models have reliable stopping power.

 

[yeroc602]

I see you've been considering those three bikes. Well, let me tell you, as a fellow road biker, the disc brakes won't make much of a difference, especially if you're commuting and doing group rides. It's more of a personal preference.

To be honest, all three bikes are decent choices, but none of them really stands out. I'd say, go for the one that feels most comfortable when you test ride it. Don't overthink it, newbie. At the end of the day, it's the rider that makes the bike, not the other way around.

And hey, if you have any more questions, feel free to ask. But remember, there's no one-size-fits-all answer here. It's all about what works best for you. Happy cycling!

 

[protour]

I respectfully disagree with the notion that none of the bikes stand out. The Cannondale's responsiveness is unmatched, while the Trek's versatility shines in commuting. The Giant, albeit heavier, offers a robust ride. Remember, the "feel" of a bike can be subjective, influenced by individual preferences and riding style. Ultimately, the choice boils down to what suits your needs best. Happy cycling!