D
D.M. Procida
Guest
My front wheel seems to have more play in the hub than the rear. How
much is normal?
Thanks,
Daniele
much is normal?
Thanks,
Daniele
I
iakobski
Guest
D
D.M. Procida
Guest
iakobski <[email protected]> wrote:
> You shouldn't be able to feel any rocking. How are you checking for
> play?
Grabbing the tyre and shaking it.
Daniele
--
Listen to KFJC! <http://netcast.kfjc.org:8976/listen.pls>
Support KFJC! <http://www.kfjc.org>
> You shouldn't be able to feel any rocking. How are you checking for
> play?
Grabbing the tyre and shaking it.
Daniele
--
Listen to KFJC! <http://netcast.kfjc.org:8976/listen.pls>
Support KFJC! <http://www.kfjc.org>
I
iakobski
Guest
D
D.M. Procida
Guest
D.M. Procida <[email protected]> wrote:
> My front wheel seems to have more play in the hub than the rear. How
> much is normal?
Oh, and how do I fix it?
Daniele
> My front wheel seems to have more play in the hub than the rear. How
> much is normal?
Oh, and how do I fix it?
Daniele
P
POHB
Guest
Consult the oracle: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html
"D.M. Procida" <[email protected]> wrote
>
>> My front wheel seems to have more play in the hub than the rear. How
>> much is normal?
>
> Oh, and how do I fix it?
>
> Daniele
"D.M. Procida" <[email protected]> wrote
>
>> My front wheel seems to have more play in the hub than the rear. How
>> much is normal?
>
> Oh, and how do I fix it?
>
> Daniele
T
Tim Hall
Guest
On Wed, 16 Nov 2005 16:34:02 +0000,
[email protected] (D.M. Procida) wrote:
>D.M. Procida <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> My front wheel seems to have more play in the hub than the rear. How
>> much is normal?
>
>Oh, and how do I fix it?
>
Assuming cup and cone bearings,
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html
Tim
[email protected] (D.M. Procida) wrote:
>D.M. Procida <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> My front wheel seems to have more play in the hub than the rear. How
>> much is normal?
>
>Oh, and how do I fix it?
>
Assuming cup and cone bearings,
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html
Tim
P
Pete Biggs
Guest
D.M. Procida wrote:
> D.M. Procida <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> My front wheel seems to have more play in the hub than the rear. How
>> much is normal?
>
> Oh, and how do I fix it?
First of all be sure it's the hub. Rims normally have a certain amount of
flex which can be confused for hub play; slacken brakes to eliminate rim
hitting brake blocks and causing a knocking sensation when testing.
Do you know what make & model hub? Follow SB's instructions if it has
conventional type cones.
~PB
> D.M. Procida <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> My front wheel seems to have more play in the hub than the rear. How
>> much is normal?
>
> Oh, and how do I fix it?
First of all be sure it's the hub. Rims normally have a certain amount of
flex which can be confused for hub play; slacken brakes to eliminate rim
hitting brake blocks and causing a knocking sensation when testing.
Do you know what make & model hub? Follow SB's instructions if it has
conventional type cones.
~PB
Z
Zog The Undeniable
Guest
D.M. Procida wrote:
> My front wheel seems to have more play in the hub than the rear. How
> much is normal?
None while it is installed in the frame. A QR hub should have a little
play when not installed, because the action of tightening the QR
actually compresses the axle and takes up clearance in the bearings. A
nutted hub should have no play in or out of the frame.
> My front wheel seems to have more play in the hub than the rear. How
> much is normal?
None while it is installed in the frame. A QR hub should have a little
play when not installed, because the action of tightening the QR
actually compresses the axle and takes up clearance in the bearings. A
nutted hub should have no play in or out of the frame.
M
mb
Guest
In article <437b8677.0@entanet>, [email protected] says...
> D.M. Procida wrote:
>
> > My front wheel seems to have more play in the hub than the rear. How
> > much is normal?
>
> None while it is installed in the frame. A QR hub should have a little
> play when not installed, because the action of tightening the QR
> actually compresses the axle and takes up clearance in the bearings. A
> nutted hub should have no play in or out of the frame.
>
This doesn't sound right. None of my QR hubs are like this (8 off).
--
Mike
> D.M. Procida wrote:
>
> > My front wheel seems to have more play in the hub than the rear. How
> > much is normal?
>
> None while it is installed in the frame. A QR hub should have a little
> play when not installed, because the action of tightening the QR
> actually compresses the axle and takes up clearance in the bearings. A
> nutted hub should have no play in or out of the frame.
>
This doesn't sound right. None of my QR hubs are like this (8 off).
--
Mike
O
Best to err on the side of loose. I do mine so that you can just detect
a very slight click of loose movement. They won't come to any harm if
too loose whereas too tight will cause damage. Also if "spot on" then
it's difficult to know later if they have tightened a bit or remained
the same whereas "slightly loose" is always detectable.
cheers
Jacob
a very slight click of loose movement. They won't come to any harm if
too loose whereas too tight will cause damage. Also if "spot on" then
it's difficult to know later if they have tightened a bit or remained
the same whereas "slightly loose" is always detectable.
cheers
Jacob
P
Pete Biggs
Guest
mb wrote:
> Zog The Undeniable wrote:
>> None while it is installed in the frame. A QR hub should have a
>> little play when not installed, because the action of tightening the
>> QR actually compresses the axle and takes up clearance in the
>> bearings. A nutted hub should have no play in or out of the frame.
>
> This doesn't sound right. None of my QR hubs are like this (8 off).
Mr Zog is correct. They *should* be like that. Loosen the cones if you
want your QR hubs to last as long as possible.
~PB
> Zog The Undeniable wrote:
>> None while it is installed in the frame. A QR hub should have a
>> little play when not installed, because the action of tightening the
>> QR actually compresses the axle and takes up clearance in the
>> bearings. A nutted hub should have no play in or out of the frame.
>
> This doesn't sound right. None of my QR hubs are like this (8 off).
Mr Zog is correct. They *should* be like that. Loosen the cones if you
want your QR hubs to last as long as possible.
~PB
P
Pete Biggs
Guest
Pete Biggs wrote:
> mb wrote:
>> Zog The Undeniable wrote:
>>> None while it is installed in the frame. A QR hub should have a
>>> little play when not installed, because the action of tightening the
>>> QR actually compresses the axle and takes up clearance in the
>>> bearings. A nutted hub should have no play in or out of the frame.
>>
>> This doesn't sound right. None of my QR hubs are like this (8 off).
>
> Mr Zog is correct. They *should* be like that. Loosen the cones if
> you want your QR hubs to last as long as possible.
Should add: This above applies only to cup 'n' cone (conventional)
bearings. Hubs with cartridge bearings are different.
~PB
> mb wrote:
>> Zog The Undeniable wrote:
>>> None while it is installed in the frame. A QR hub should have a
>>> little play when not installed, because the action of tightening the
>>> QR actually compresses the axle and takes up clearance in the
>>> bearings. A nutted hub should have no play in or out of the frame.
>>
>> This doesn't sound right. None of my QR hubs are like this (8 off).
>
> Mr Zog is correct. They *should* be like that. Loosen the cones if
> you want your QR hubs to last as long as possible.
Should add: This above applies only to cup 'n' cone (conventional)
bearings. Hubs with cartridge bearings are different.
~PB
D
David Nutter
Guest
On 2005-11-16, Pete Biggs <[email protected]> wrote:
> mb wrote:
>> Zog The Undeniable wrote:
>>> None while it is installed in the frame. A QR hub should have a
>>> little play when not installed, because the action of tightening the
>>> QR actually compresses the axle and takes up clearance in the
>>> bearings. A nutted hub should have no play in or out of the frame.
>>
>> This doesn't sound right. None of my QR hubs are like this (8 off).
>
> Mr Zog is correct. They *should* be like that. Loosen the cones if you
> want your QR hubs to last as long as possible.
In a previous thread wherein I was moaning about my Deore LX rear hub
suffering from pitted cones at first service, Maarten (of m-gineering.nl)
mentioned that Shimano QR hubs leave the factory set up "too tight" to allow
easy wheel-building.
http://groups.google.co.uk/group/uk.rec.cycling/msg/17ecd7fbe27b90b0?hl=en&
Regards,
-david
> mb wrote:
>> Zog The Undeniable wrote:
>>> None while it is installed in the frame. A QR hub should have a
>>> little play when not installed, because the action of tightening the
>>> QR actually compresses the axle and takes up clearance in the
>>> bearings. A nutted hub should have no play in or out of the frame.
>>
>> This doesn't sound right. None of my QR hubs are like this (8 off).
>
> Mr Zog is correct. They *should* be like that. Loosen the cones if you
> want your QR hubs to last as long as possible.
In a previous thread wherein I was moaning about my Deore LX rear hub
suffering from pitted cones at first service, Maarten (of m-gineering.nl)
mentioned that Shimano QR hubs leave the factory set up "too tight" to allow
easy wheel-building.
http://groups.google.co.uk/group/uk.rec.cycling/msg/17ecd7fbe27b90b0?hl=en&
Regards,
-david
D
David Martin
Guest
David Nutter wrote:
> In a previous thread wherein I was moaning about my Deore LX rear hub
> suffering from pitted cones at first service, Maarten (of m-gineering.nl)
> mentioned that Shimano QR hubs leave the factory set up "too tight" to allow
> easy wheel-building.
I too suffered from that. I came to the conclusion that it would cost
as much as a new hub to sort it, and that the expected useful life of
the pitted hub was about that of the rim, so I might as well just wait
till it all gives up.
...d
> In a previous thread wherein I was moaning about my Deore LX rear hub
> suffering from pitted cones at first service, Maarten (of m-gineering.nl)
> mentioned that Shimano QR hubs leave the factory set up "too tight" to allow
> easy wheel-building.
I too suffered from that. I came to the conclusion that it would cost
as much as a new hub to sort it, and that the expected useful life of
the pitted hub was about that of the rim, so I might as well just wait
till it all gives up.
...d
N
nobody760
Guest
The test I have used for donkey years is hold the wheel in both hands
at the end of the spindle. Assumes tyre and tube fitted - place the
valve at horizontal - if the weight of the valve it moves down to the
vertical the cones are not too tight.
at the end of the spindle. Assumes tyre and tube fitted - place the
valve at horizontal - if the weight of the valve it moves down to the
vertical the cones are not too tight.
P
Pete Biggs
Guest
nobody760 wrote:
> The test I have used for donkey years is hold the wheel in both hands
> at the end of the spindle. Assumes tyre and tube fitted - place the
> valve at horizontal - if the weight of the valve it moves down to the
> vertical the cones are not too tight.
That's a worthwhile test (when wheel is fitted*) but still not good enough
on its own. Especially with new hubs, the cones /can/ be too tight (for
best durability) even when free enough to allow the heaviest part of the
wheel to settle to the bottom.... which isn't always the valve, by the
way, bearing in mind the rim joint or any magnet/wheel refelector, etc.
Testing for play when the QR is open (or even half open) is the best way.
It is tricky to have the cones adjusted this precisely. Sheldon's tip on
using two cone spanners or two locknut spanners at the same time helps a
lot for final adjustment with conventional type hubs. Campagnolo make it
a relatively easy job on their current Centaur/Chorus/Record hubs.
* Hardly helpful when not fitted because there won't be any compression
side effect from the QR.
~PB
> The test I have used for donkey years is hold the wheel in both hands
> at the end of the spindle. Assumes tyre and tube fitted - place the
> valve at horizontal - if the weight of the valve it moves down to the
> vertical the cones are not too tight.
That's a worthwhile test (when wheel is fitted*) but still not good enough
on its own. Especially with new hubs, the cones /can/ be too tight (for
best durability) even when free enough to allow the heaviest part of the
wheel to settle to the bottom.... which isn't always the valve, by the
way, bearing in mind the rim joint or any magnet/wheel refelector, etc.
Testing for play when the QR is open (or even half open) is the best way.
It is tricky to have the cones adjusted this precisely. Sheldon's tip on
using two cone spanners or two locknut spanners at the same time helps a
lot for final adjustment with conventional type hubs. Campagnolo make it
a relatively easy job on their current Centaur/Chorus/Record hubs.
* Hardly helpful when not fitted because there won't be any compression
side effect from the QR.
~PB
M
mb
Guest
Pete Biggs wrote:
> Pete Biggs wrote:
> > mb wrote:
> >> Zog The Undeniable wrote:
> >>> None while it is installed in the frame. A QR hub should have a
> >>> little play when not installed, because the action of tightening
> the >>> QR actually compresses the axle and takes up clearance in the
> >>> bearings. A nutted hub should have no play in or out of the
> frame.
> > >
> >> This doesn't sound right. None of my QR hubs are like this (8 off).
> >
> > Mr Zog is correct. They should be like that. Loosen the cones if
> > you want your QR hubs to last as long as possible.
>
> Should add: This above applies only to cup 'n' cone (conventional)
> bearings. Hubs with cartridge bearings are different.
>
> ~PB
Ah, I was just about to say "what are these 'cones' of which you speak".
I won't bother now
--
Mike
> Pete Biggs wrote:
> > mb wrote:
> >> Zog The Undeniable wrote:
> >>> None while it is installed in the frame. A QR hub should have a
> >>> little play when not installed, because the action of tightening
> the >>> QR actually compresses the axle and takes up clearance in the
> >>> bearings. A nutted hub should have no play in or out of the
> frame.
> > >
> >> This doesn't sound right. None of my QR hubs are like this (8 off).
> >
> > Mr Zog is correct. They should be like that. Loosen the cones if
> > you want your QR hubs to last as long as possible.
>
> Should add: This above applies only to cup 'n' cone (conventional)
> bearings. Hubs with cartridge bearings are different.
>
> ~PB
Ah, I was just about to say "what are these 'cones' of which you speak".
I won't bother now
--
Mike