Originally Posted by Enowil .
I've got a vintage late 80's Centurion Ironman Dave Scott road bike. The trouble is that I'm much older now, and because of arthritis in my neck and shoulders I can no longer ride the bike as it is, at least not comfortably and not for more than a few minutes. I want to replace the drop bar with a straight bar so that I can sit in a little more comfortable more upright position. The bike is outfitted with a complete Shimano 600 group. The shift leavers are on the down tube. I want to leave them there. Rendering them obsolete and replacing them with a brake leaver/shift leaver combo mechanism is not an option. All I want is a straight bar with the appropriate brake leavers and grips. The bike is red and white and the handlebars original with white handlebar tape. I want to maintain the esthetic value of the bike so I'd like an aluminum un-anodized straight bar if possible, and I'd like to keep the original stem, also if possible. Taking all this information into consideration is this conversion feasible?
What you propose is both feasible AND relatively easy to do ...
BUT,
you will probably lose the aesthetic value of the bike regardless of the type of non-Drop handlebar you put on it.
REGARDLESS, before you make any changes, YOU need to establish (
as close as possible) the appropriate handlebar position which will allow you to sit comfortably for whatever distance(s) you anticipate riding ...
- sit at your kitchen or dining room table and lean forward
- reach forward with your arms with your forearms on the table's top
- when you find a comfortable location where your neck & shoulders are comfortable, then mark where the crook of your thumbs are ... measure the place where the back of your butt is (place your butt against the back of the chair OR against the front end of the seat) to the where you marked your thumb location
- repeat with your hands on a surface of a different height (use one or more phone books or whatever is handy, as necessary)
- and, repeat with your forearms in a location on surface below the chair's seat level
- compare the distances -- they should be very close to one another ... repeat if there is a great disparity & HOLD the position(s) for 5-to-15 minutes ... compare, repeat if necessary
- now, go to your bike & figure you where the theoretical handlebar GRIPS need to be to determine the amount of rise that you may need based on the reach of the top tube + stem length WHILE compensating for the width that you find comfortable for your hand separation ... remember to compensate for the distance between your "back" measurement & your sit bones, too (or, note that point on your chair from which you are measuring).
You may determine that for comfort, rather than straight handlebars, you may prossibly want some
beach cruiser type handlebars which were once common on balloon tire & midweight 26" tire bikes back in the day ...
OR, the less severe handlebar shape found on a 3-speed bike may be sufficient.
Possibly, a High-Rise (
goose neck) stem is all you need & will allow you to continue to use your Drop Bars.
A taller BMX handlebar may be required to mitigate the discomfort which your arthritis is causing you ...
You have many options other than "Flat" MTB handlebars to consider, IMO.
BTW. I think that MOST alloy handlebars are black, now. After you determine the appropriate handlebar SHAPE, then go to Home Depot or Lowe's (
or, similar store) and buy some FLAT ALUMINUM paint & spray the handlebars with it (
before mounting!) ... touch up, as necessary ...
Alternatively, if you cannot find the handlebars in a
polished aluminum appearance, then get some emery cloth & mechanically strip the 'black' anodized surface from the handlebars OR use something like NAVAL JELLY to chemically remove the 'black' anodized finish.
