I would like to buy a custom (non-folding) commuter bike on the Internet



J

Jay

Guest
I am going to spend my tax refund check on a second bike. My current bike is
a folder http://www.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/arkel/seat-mast-left.jpg . I
don't need a folder anymore, but I do want to stick with 20" wheels, because
they make my intermodal commute much easier, especially on the commuter
train, and going up/down narrow escalators and stairs.

Regular RBTers know that I commute 20 miles daily, year round, in Chicago. I
need a bike which will be strong enough to support the load (220 lbs body
weight + 30 lbs cargo). It also needs to be big enough for my 6'4" height.

Since I am commuting and not racing, I don't need to spend a lot of money on
cutting edge parts, in an attempt to get the lightest possible bike. But I
do insist on quality and reliability, and will pay extra to get it.

The bike also needs to be able to handle year round weather, without a lot
of fussing. One thing I am reasonably sure of, is I need brakes which are
not rim brakes. When I previously asked a related question here, it was
suggested I use hub brakes. Is that the consensus choice?

I am currently using an 8-speed cassette, Shimano 105 rear derailleur,
single chain ring. This is enough gears for me.

I had some wheels built, with Sun Rhyno Lite XL rims, Schwalbe Marathon Plus
tires. These are working great, and I rarely flat, which is a high priority
for me.

Do I need a custom frame, or is there a stock frame which will work? I would
like to keep this purchase under $800, but I will pay somewhat more if
necessary.

Thanks to previous suggestions from RBT, I am not quite as clueless as when
I bought my folder two years ago. But I still obviously need plenty of help.

Thanks for any suggestions - J.
 
On Jan 26, 7:15 pm, "Jay" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I am going to spend my tax refund check on a second bike. My current bike is
> a folderhttp://www.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/arkel/seat-mast-left.jpg .  I
> don't need a folder anymore, but I do want to stick with 20" wheels, because
> they make my intermodal commute much easier, especially on the commuter
> train, and going up/down narrow escalators and stairs.
>
> Regular RBTers know that I commute 20 miles daily, year round, in Chicago.I
> need a bike which will be strong enough to support the load (220 lbs body
> weight + 30 lbs cargo). It also needs to be big enough for my 6'4" height.
>
> Since I am commuting and not racing, I don't need to spend a lot of money on
> cutting edge parts, in an attempt to get the lightest possible bike. But I
> do insist on quality and reliability, and will pay extra to get it.
>
> The bike also needs to be able to handle year round weather, without a lot
> of fussing. One thing I am reasonably sure of, is I need brakes which are
> not rim brakes. When I previously asked a related question here, it was
> suggested I use hub brakes. Is that the consensus choice?
>
> I am currently using an 8-speed cassette, Shimano 105 rear derailleur,
> single chain ring. This is enough gears for me.
>
> I had some wheels built, with Sun Rhyno Lite XL rims, Schwalbe Marathon Plus
> tires. These are working great, and I rarely flat, which is a high priority
> for me.
>
> Do I need a custom frame, or is there a stock frame which will work? I would
> like to keep this purchase under $800, but I will pay somewhat more if
> necessary.
>
> Thanks to previous suggestions from RBT, I am not quite as clueless as when
> I bought my folder two years ago. But I still obviously need plenty of help.
>
> Thanks for any suggestions - J.

XXL size BMX frame with a monster long seatpost and ape-hangers? Nexus
hub.

Joseph
 
On Jan 26, 12:15 pm, "Jay" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I am going to spend my tax refund check on a second bike. My current bike is
> a folderhttp://www.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/arkel/seat-mast-left.jpg . I
> don't need a folder anymore, but I do want to stick with 20" wheels, because
> they make my intermodal commute much easier, especially on the commuter
> train, and going up/down narrow escalators and stairs.
>
> Regular RBTers know that I commute 20 miles daily, year round, in Chicago. I
> need a bike which will be strong enough to support the load (220 lbs body
> weight + 30 lbs cargo). It also needs to be big enough for my 6'4" height.
>
> Since I am commuting and not racing, I don't need to spend a lot of money on
> cutting edge parts, in an attempt to get the lightest possible bike. But I
> do insist on quality and reliability, and will pay extra to get it.
>
> The bike also needs to be able to handle year round weather, without a lot
> of fussing. One thing I am reasonably sure of, is I need brakes which are
> not rim brakes. When I previously asked a related question here, it was
> suggested I use hub brakes. Is that the consensus choice?
>
> I am currently using an 8-speed cassette, Shimano 105 rear derailleur,
> single chain ring. This is enough gears for me.
>
> I had some wheels built, with Sun Rhyno Lite XL rims, Schwalbe Marathon Plus
> tires. These are working great, and I rarely flat, which is a high priority
> for me.
>
> Do I need a custom frame, or is there a stock frame which will work? I would
> like to keep this purchase under $800, but I will pay somewhat more if
> necessary.
>
> Thanks to previous suggestions from RBT, I am not quite as clueless as when
> I bought my folder two years ago. But I still obviously need plenty of help.
>
> Thanks for any suggestions - J.

Cheap Dahon rebuilt onto a gear hub with drum brake? Front is not a
standard hub spacing, so you're stuck with rim brakes on most 20"
bikes. Just get some salmon Kool-Stops. Worked well enough for me in
Chicago winters.
 
Jay Bollyn wrote:
> I am going to spend my tax refund check on a second bike. My current bike is
> a folder http://www.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/arkel/seat-mast-left.jpg . I
> don't need a folder anymore, but I do want to stick with 20" wheels, because
> they make my intermodal commute much easier, especially on the commuter
> train, and going up/down narrow escalators and stairs.
>
> Regular RBTers know that I commute 20 miles daily, year round, in Chicago. I
> need a bike which will be strong enough to support the load (220 lbs body
> weight + 30 lbs cargo). It also needs to be big enough for my 6'4" height.
>
The suggestion (below) of a decent quality adult size BMX frame appears
to be a good one, as long as you can find a frame large enough.

> Since I am commuting and not racing, I don't need to spend a lot of money on
> cutting edge parts, in an attempt to get the lightest possible bike. But I
> do insist on quality and reliability, and will pay extra to get it.
>
> The bike also needs to be able to handle year round weather, without a lot
> of fussing. One thing I am reasonably sure of, is I need brakes which are
> not rim brakes. When I previously asked a related question here, it was
> suggested I use hub brakes. Is that the consensus choice?
>
Yes, and I am unanimous in that.

Until a large climate control dome covers Chicagoland, I would get the
hub brakes, since you will not have the issues of poor braking and/or
greater than normal rates of braking track wear on the rim while riding
in snow and slush.

> I am currently using an 8-speed cassette, Shimano 105 rear derailleur,
> single chain ring. This is enough gears for me.
>
An internally geared hub would provide similar or greater gearing range,
and work better in said snow and slush that an exposed derailer system.

> I had some wheels built, with Sun Rhyno Lite XL rims, Schwalbe Marathon Plus
> tires. These are working great, and I rarely flat, which is a high priority
> for me.
>
For a commuter, no point in sacrificing reliability for a small weight loss.

> Do I need a custom frame, or is there a stock frame which will work? I would
> like to keep this purchase under $800, but I will pay somewhat more if
> necessary.
>
> Thanks to previous suggestions from RBT, I am not quite as clueless as when
> I bought my folder two years ago. But I still obviously need plenty of help.
>
> Thanks for any suggestions - J.
>
Well, you have learned not to say "thanks in advance" which will incur
the Wrath of Brandt.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
"And never forget, life ultimately makes failures of all people."
- A. Derleth
 
"Tom Sherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Jay Bollyn wrote:
>> I am going to spend my tax refund check on a second bike. My current bike
>> is a folder http://www.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/arkel/seat-mast-left.jpg .
>> I don't need a folder anymore, but I do want to stick with 20" wheels,
>> because they make my intermodal commute much easier, especially on the
>> commuter train, and going up/down narrow escalators and stairs.
>>
>> Regular RBTers know that I commute 20 miles daily, year round, in
>> Chicago. I need a bike which will be strong enough to support the load
>> (220 lbs body weight + 30 lbs cargo). It also needs to be big enough for
>> my 6'4" height.
>>
> The suggestion (below) of a decent quality adult size BMX frame appears to
> be a good one, as long as you can find a frame large enough.
>
>> Since I am commuting and not racing, I don't need to spend a lot of money
>> on cutting edge parts, in an attempt to get the lightest possible bike.
>> But I do insist on quality and reliability, and will pay extra to get it.
>>
>> The bike also needs to be able to handle year round weather, without a
>> lot of fussing. One thing I am reasonably sure of, is I need brakes which
>> are not rim brakes. When I previously asked a related question here, it
>> was suggested I use hub brakes. Is that the consensus choice?
>>
> Yes, and I am unanimous in that.
>
> Until a large climate control dome covers Chicagoland, I would get the hub
> brakes, since you will not have the issues of poor braking and/or greater
> than normal rates of braking track wear on the rim while riding in snow
> and slush.
>
>> I am currently using an 8-speed cassette, Shimano 105 rear derailleur,
>> single chain ring. This is enough gears for me.
>>
> An internally geared hub would provide similar or greater gearing range,
> and work better in said snow and slush that an exposed derailer system.
>
>> I had some wheels built, with Sun Rhyno Lite XL rims, Schwalbe Marathon
>> Plus tires. These are working great, and I rarely flat, which is a high
>> priority for me.
>>
> For a commuter, no point in sacrificing reliability for a small weight
> loss.
>
>> Do I need a custom frame, or is there a stock frame which will work? I
>> would like to keep this purchase under $800, but I will pay somewhat more
>> if necessary.
>>
>> Thanks to previous suggestions from RBT, I am not quite as clueless as
>> when I bought my folder two years ago. But I still obviously need plenty
>> of help.
>>
>> Thanks for any suggestions - J.
> Well, you have learned not to say "thanks in advance" which will incur the
> Wrath of Brandt.
>
> --
> Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
> "And never forget, life ultimately makes failures of all people."
> - A. Derleth
>
Wow, you guys never take a day off, even on weekends! Usenet Administration
should rename RBT 'great.bike.advice.24-7'!

OK, now I am just being silly (again)...

I would indeed like to get away from an exposed derailleur system, because
of my all-weather riding conditions. I simply did not know enough to
(previously) spec an 'internally geared hub', but it sounds perfect for what
I need. My route is fairly flat, but wind is of course variable and can be
extreme, especially in fall and spring.

Joseph has suggested 'XXL size BMX frame with a monster long seatpost and
ape-hangers'. I don't know what an ape-hanger is, but it sounds kinky, so
there is some appeal. I like to get full extension when I pedal, so I raise
my seat to achieve it http://www.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/winter/snow1.jpg . I
see kids who, IMO have their seat way too low. I have no idea why they do
it, but I do know that my 54-year-old knees will not handle the strain. I
need to get the most from each pedal cycle (within reasonable
already-mentioned limits).

I don't know what 'decent quality BMX frame' means. Let's start at the top
$, and work down if necessary. Keep in mind that I know absolutely nothing
about BMX frames.

(I do realize I might be cited by the Snip Police, but I truly think all the
previous data is relevant. So I have made no attempt to reduce the bit
traffic over the wire.)

(I did not know that TIA is a RBT no-no. I will try to be more creative,
since I try to avoid clichés, anyway.)

RBT is a certainly a priceless Internet resource!

Grateful J.
 
Jay wrote:
> I am going to spend my tax refund check on a second bike. My current bike is
> a folder http://www.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/arkel/seat-mast-left.jpg . I
> don't need a folder anymore, but I do want to stick with 20" wheels, because
> they make my intermodal commute much easier, especially on the commuter
> train, and going up/down narrow escalators and stairs.
>
> Regular RBTers know that I commute 20 miles daily, year round, in Chicago. I
> need a bike which will be strong enough to support the load (220 lbs body
> weight + 30 lbs cargo). It also needs to be big enough for my 6'4" height.
>
> Since I am commuting and not racing, I don't need to spend a lot of money on
> cutting edge parts, in an attempt to get the lightest possible bike. But I
> do insist on quality and reliability, and will pay extra to get it.
>
> The bike also needs to be able to handle year round weather, without a lot
> of fussing. One thing I am reasonably sure of, is I need brakes which are
> not rim brakes. When I previously asked a related question here, it was
> suggested I use hub brakes. Is that the consensus choice?
>
> I am currently using an 8-speed cassette, Shimano 105 rear derailleur,
> single chain ring. This is enough gears for me.
>
> I had some wheels built, with Sun Rhyno Lite XL rims, Schwalbe Marathon Plus
> tires. These are working great, and I rarely flat, which is a high priority
> for me.
>
> Do I need a custom frame, or is there a stock frame which will work? I would
> like to keep this purchase under $800, but I will pay somewhat more if
> necessary.
>
> Thanks to previous suggestions from RBT, I am not quite as clueless as when
> I bought my folder two years ago. But I still obviously need plenty of help.

Do you mean something like this?
http://www.cycleurope.co.jp/2008/bianchi2008.htm
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
 
On Jan 26, 8:56 pm, "Jay" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Tom Sherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > Jay Bollyn wrote:
> >> I am going to spend my tax refund check on a second bike. My current bike
> >> is a folderhttp://www.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/arkel/seat-mast-left.jpg .
> >> I don't need a folder anymore, but I do want to stick with 20" wheels,
> >> because they make my intermodal commute much easier, especially on the
> >> commuter train, and going up/down narrow escalators and stairs.
>
> >> Regular RBTers know that I commute 20 miles daily, year round, in
> >> Chicago. I need a bike which will be strong enough to support the load
> >> (220 lbs body weight + 30 lbs cargo). It also needs to be big enough for
> >> my 6'4" height.
>
> > The suggestion (below) of a decent quality adult size BMX frame appears to
> > be a good one, as long as you can find a frame large enough.
>
> >> Since I am commuting and not racing, I don't need to spend a lot of money
> >> on cutting edge parts, in an attempt to get the lightest possible bike.
> >> But I do insist on quality and reliability, and will pay extra to get it.
>
> >> The bike also needs to be able to handle year round weather, without a
> >> lot of fussing. One thing I am reasonably sure of, is I need brakes which
> >> are not rim brakes. When I previously asked a related question here, it
> >> was suggested I use hub brakes. Is that the consensus choice?
>
> > Yes, and I am unanimous in that.
>
> > Until a large climate control dome covers Chicagoland, I would get the hub
> > brakes, since you will not have the issues of poor braking and/or greater
> > than normal rates of braking track wear on the rim while riding in snow
> > and slush.
>
> >> I am currently using an 8-speed cassette, Shimano 105 rear derailleur,
> >> single chain ring. This is enough gears for me.
>
> > An internally geared hub would provide similar or greater gearing range,
> > and work better in said snow and slush that an exposed derailer system.
>
> >> I had some wheels built, with Sun Rhyno Lite XL rims, Schwalbe Marathon
> >> Plus tires. These are working great, and I rarely flat, which is a high
> >> priority for me.
>
> > For a commuter, no point in sacrificing reliability for a small weight
> > loss.
>
> >> Do I need a custom frame, or is there a stock frame which will work? I
> >> would like to keep this purchase under $800, but I will pay somewhat more
> >> if necessary.
>
> >> Thanks to previous suggestions from RBT, I am not quite as clueless as
> >> when I bought my folder two years ago. But I still obviously need plenty
> >> of help.
>
> >> Thanks for any suggestions - J.
> > Well, you have learned not to say "thanks in advance" which will incur the
> > Wrath of Brandt.
>
> > --
> > Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
> > "And never forget, life ultimately makes failures of all people."
> > - A. Derleth
>
> Wow, you guys never take a day off, even on weekends! Usenet Administration
> should rename RBT 'great.bike.advice.24-7'!
>
> OK, now I am just being silly (again)...
>
> I would indeed like to get away from an exposed derailleur system, because
> of my all-weather riding conditions. I simply did not know enough to
> (previously) spec an 'internally geared hub', but it sounds perfect for what
> I need. My route is fairly flat, but wind is of course variable and can be
> extreme, especially in fall and spring.
>
> Joseph has suggested 'XXL size BMX frame with a monster long seatpost and
> ape-hangers'. I don't know what an ape-hanger is, but it sounds kinky, so
> there is some appeal. I like to get full extension when I pedal, so I raise
> my seat to achieve ithttp://www.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/winter/snow1.jpg. I
> see kids who, IMO have their seat way too low. I have no idea why they do
> it, but I do know that my 54-year-old knees will not handle the strain. I
> need to get the most from each pedal cycle (within reasonable
> already-mentioned limits).
>
> I don't know what 'decent quality BMX frame' means. Let's start at the top
> $, and work down if necessary. Keep in mind that I know absolutely nothing
> about BMX frames.
>
> (I do realize I might be cited by the Snip Police, but I truly think all the
> previous data is relevant.  So I have made no attempt to reduce the bit
> traffic over the wire.)
>
> (I did not know that TIA is a RBT no-no. I will try to be more creative,
> since I try to avoid clichés, anyway.)
>
> RBT is a certainly a priceless Internet resource!
>
> Grateful J.

Shimano Nexus (and Inter series) hubs come in several variants with 3,
7, and 8 speeds with or without a coaster brake, and also optional
roller brake (drum brake I guess). Get a front hub with a dynamo to
run your lights.

Ape hangers are just really tall riser bars. Called ape hangers
because guys on Harleys with them look like apes hanging from the
overly high bars. But since the BMX frame has such a low front, it
would be more or less in the right place.

A BMX frame shouldn't cost more that $100. You might even start with a
complete cheap BMX bike and swap out parts. Are you sure you even need
gears?

The super long seatpost might be a problem. Solution: Banana seat! ;-)

It's been a long time since I needed to walk my bike around in crowds
and on trains and stuff, but I always just yanked the stem and stood
the bike up on it's back wheel. Does 20" wheels really make that big a
difference?

Joseph
 
Jay Bollyn wrote:
> ...
> I would indeed like to get away from an exposed derailleur system, because
> of my all-weather riding conditions. I simply did not know enough to
> (previously) spec an 'internally geared hub', but it sounds perfect for what
> I need. My route is fairly flat, but wind is of course variable and can be
> extreme, especially in fall and spring.
>
Wind in the "Windy City"???

> Joseph has suggested 'XXL size BMX frame with a monster long seatpost and
> ape-hangers'. I don't know what an ape-hanger is, but it sounds kinky, so
> there is some appeal. I like to get full extension when I pedal, so I raise
> my seat to achieve it http://www.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/winter/snow1.jpg . I
> see kids who, IMO have their seat way too low. I have no idea why they do
> it, but I do know that my 54-year-old knees will not handle the strain. I
> need to get the most from each pedal cycle (within reasonable
> already-mentioned limits).
>
My knees hurt from just watching people ride with the seat way too low.

> I don't know what 'decent quality BMX frame' means. Let's start at the top
> $, and work down if necessary. Keep in mind that I know absolutely nothing
> about BMX frames.
>
I am not up on BMX, but I would assume that a LBS quality frame would
stand up to your use, but a Sprawl-Mart frame might not. The main issue
besides fit would be mounting fenders and racks. Decent quality BMX
bicycles appear to be in the $200-300 range, so the frames should be
about one-half that.

> (I do realize I might be cited by the Snip Police, but I truly think all the
> previous data is relevant. So I have made no attempt to reduce the bit
> traffic over the wire.)
>
> (I did not know that TIA is a RBT no-no. I will try to be more creative,
> since I try to avoid clichés, anyway.)
>
> RBT is a certainly a priceless Internet resource!
>
I would suggest contacting a dealer who sells both commuter bicycles and
BMX (Andrew Muzi at Yellow Jersey comes to mind) to see if this is a
feasible idea.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
"And never forget, life ultimately makes failures of all people."
- A. Derleth
 
Andrew Muzi wrote:
> Jay wrote:
>> I am going to spend my tax refund check on a second bike. My current
>> bike is a folder
>> http://www.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/arkel/seat-mast-left.jpg . I don't
>> need a folder anymore, but I do want to stick with 20" wheels, because
>> they make my intermodal commute much easier, especially on the
>> commuter train, and going up/down narrow escalators and stairs.
>>
>> Regular RBTers know that I commute 20 miles daily, year round, in
>> Chicago. I need a bike which will be strong enough to support the load
>> (220 lbs body weight + 30 lbs cargo). It also needs to be big enough
>> for my 6'4" height.
>>
>> Since I am commuting and not racing, I don't need to spend a lot of
>> money on cutting edge parts, in an attempt to get the lightest
>> possible bike. But I do insist on quality and reliability, and will
>> pay extra to get it.
>>
>> The bike also needs to be able to handle year round weather, without a
>> lot of fussing. One thing I am reasonably sure of, is I need brakes
>> which are not rim brakes. When I previously asked a related question
>> here, it was suggested I use hub brakes. Is that the consensus choice?
>>
>> I am currently using an 8-speed cassette, Shimano 105 rear derailleur,
>> single chain ring. This is enough gears for me.
>>
>> I had some wheels built, with Sun Rhyno Lite XL rims, Schwalbe
>> Marathon Plus tires. These are working great, and I rarely flat, which
>> is a high priority for me.
>>
>> Do I need a custom frame, or is there a stock frame which will work? I
>> would like to keep this purchase under $800, but I will pay somewhat
>> more if necessary.
>>
>> Thanks to previous suggestions from RBT, I am not quite as clueless as
>> when I bought my folder two years ago. But I still obviously need
>> plenty of help.
>
> Do you mean something like this?
> http://www.cycleurope.co.jp/2008/bianchi2008.htm
>
Or <http://www.cycleurope.co.jp/2008/swf.htm> for a more direct link.

Looks like a custom build of the Bianchi small wheel frames would be in
order to get internal hub gearing and hub brakes.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
"And never forget, life ultimately makes failures of all people."
- A. Derleth
 
"Tom Sherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> landotter aka terra lutra wrote:
>> On Jan 26, 2:16 pm, A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Do you mean something like
>>> this?http://www.cycleurope.co.jp/2008/bianchi2008.htm
>>> --
>>
>>
>> http://www.cycleurope.co.jp/2008/mv9d.html
>>
>> Wow!
>>
> A road bicycle with proper size wheels. To bad about the color (not a
> celeste verde fan).
>
> --
> Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
> "And never forget, life ultimately makes failures of all people."
> - A. Derleth
>
You are right Tom,

If I were to die tonight, and wake up a tree-hugging liberal, with whatever
is the current godless sexual tendency, then LO's suggestion would be
appropriate.

I do think my friend LO is just trying to playfully stick a shiv into my
conservative (any color as long as it is black) ribs.

J.
 
Jay Bollyn wrote:
> "Tom Sherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> landotter aka terra lutra wrote:
>>> On Jan 26, 2:16 pm, A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Do you mean something like
>>>> this?http://www.cycleurope.co.jp/2008/bianchi2008.htm
>>>> --
>>>
>>> http://www.cycleurope.co.jp/2008/mv9d.html
>>>
>>> Wow!
>>>
>> A road bicycle with proper size wheels. To bad about the color (not a
>> celeste verde fan).
>>
>>
> You are right Tom,
>
> If I were to die tonight, and wake up a tree-hugging liberal, with whatever
> is the current godless sexual tendency, then LO's suggestion would be
> appropriate.
>
> I do think my friend LO is just trying to playfully stick a shiv into my
> conservative (any color as long as it is black) ribs.
>
Well, "celeste verde" [1] is the standard Bianchi color. I have even
seen Bianchi bicycles with matching green tires (ugh).

How about full suspension: <http://www.cycleurope.co.jp/2007/pic/b056.jpg>?

Isn't it cute: <http://www.cycleurope.co.jp/2007/pic/b058.jpg>?

Funky frame: <http://www.cycleurope.co.jp/2007/pic/b030.jpg>.

[1] "Sky green", though I always think of it as "waste water treatment
plant green".

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
"And never forget, life ultimately makes failures of all people."
- A. Derleth
 
On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 16:43:18 -0600, "Jay" <[email protected]> wrote:

[---]

>My only suggestion would be to keep your left-coast politics distinct from
>your expert bike advice? Is this possible?

*Yawn*

My only suggestion would be to keep US politics out of rbt. Is this
possible?
 
"Andrew Price" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 16:43:18 -0600, "Jay" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> [---]
>
>>My only suggestion would be to keep your left-coast politics distinct from
>>your expert bike advice? Is this possible?
>
> *Yawn*
>
> My only suggestion would be to keep US politics out of rbt. Is this
> possible?
>
Could we please 'digress' to my original question?

Why do I even need to make this request?!

I do NOT want to discuss politics!!

Confused J.
 
On 2008-01-26, Jay <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
> You know, I get tired of saying that KZ is absolutely correct.

Just for you, jay, I'll say something completely dishonest one of these days.
I'll keep it a surprise, though, to keep you on your toes.

--

Kristian Zoerhoff
[email protected]
 
"Kristian M Zoerhoff" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 2008-01-26, Jay <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>
>> You know, I get tired of saying that KZ is absolutely correct.
>
> Just for you, jay, I'll say something completely dishonest one of these
> days.
> I'll keep it a surprise, though, to keep you on your toes.
>
> --
>
> Kristian Zoerhoff
> [email protected]
>
>
I hereby nominate our Usenet friend KZ for RBT Contributer of 2008! Saint
Kristian!!

KZ has expert bike advice, and the dry sense of humor coveted by Usenet
regulars.

We don't need the formality of a second. No need to see an actual bike
miracle.

Congrats SAINT KRISTIAN! U da man!

J.
 
Andrew Price wrote:
> On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 16:43:18 -0600, "Jay" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> [---]
>
>> My only suggestion would be to keep your left-coast politics
>> distinct from your expert bike advice? Is this possible?
>
> *Yawn*
>
> My only suggestion would be to keep US politics out of rbt. Is this
> possible?

Whaddya, new?
 
Jay wrote:
>
> Joseph has suggested 'XXL size BMX frame with a monster long seatpost and
> ape-hangers'.
<snip>
> I don't know what 'decent quality BMX frame' means. Let's start at the top
> $, and work down if necessary. Keep in mind that I know absolutely nothing
> about BMX frames.

BMX frames are not traditionally sized in inches, but by racing
category. This is a custom that has extended even to bikes that are
not used for racing. In order of size, the categories are:

Micro (think four-year-old kid)
Mini
Junior
Expert
Pro
Pro XL
Pro XXL (more or less normal adult size)

There are probably "Pro XXXL" and such frames out there, but there's
no conventional understanding of sizing outside what I have named. If
you are of average or larger adult stature, only Pro XXL frames will
be suitable for your purposes. Some frames are sized in inches, but
the size refers to the top tube length and not the seat tube. Don't
bother with anything shorter than 21.5 inches.

The vast majority of decent quality BMX frames are made for one of two
purposes, but not both:

Racing, or (more commonly)
Freestyle-- which is jumping and other stunts.

There is another discipline called "flatland", which is a kind of
artistic cycling, but those bikes would be of no use to you
whatsoever.

Racing bikes will be lighter, more fragile (but still stronger than
the bikes most of us are familiar with), and longer in the rear end.
They have V-brake bosses mounted above the seatstays.

Freestyle and dirt jumping bikes--variations of the same thing-- are
built to take a beating. They tend to be heavier than full-sized MTB
frames and very compact in the rear triangle. They usually have U-
brake bosses mounted under the seatstays or above the chainstays.
Note that many of these have 14mm dropout slots, for hubs with
oversized axles. If you wish to use a 3/8" or 10mm axle, you'll have
to have stepped washers to take up the difference in size.

Here is an example of the most expensive sort of BMX frame you should
consider buying:

http://www.danscomp.com/211339.php

It's a freestyle bike in a grownup frame size, with a grownup price of
$289 for the frame only. Its dimensions are all quite generous for a
freestyle bike, which is why it's an acceptable alternative to a
racing frame. It has oversized dropout slots.

Here is a racing frame that would make a decent choice:

http://www.danscomp.com/201340.php

It's pretty light, reasonably priced at $199, and fairly long in the
rear triangle for a 20" bike. Here are a couple more of the same
general description:

http://www.danscomp.com/201073.php
http://www.danscomp.com/201122.php

Things to look for if you'd like to use a BMX bike as a commuter:

25.4mm (1") seatpost bore, which will allow a very long seatpost that
won't bend. Consider having a machine shop make you one by turning
down the top of a 1" aluminum rod or thick-walled tube to 7/8" to fit
standard seat guts.

U-brake bosses on the fork. If there are no bosses, you'll have to
use a long reach BMX sidepull caliper (which is a bit like trying to
stop your bike with chopsticks).

Steep seat angle. BMX seat angles vary wildly. The slackest of them
could easily put your saddle behind the rear axle if the seatpost is
long enough for full extension.

Handlebars with a minimum 8" of rise. 8" is the tallest common size
anymore; you may want to add a HeadsUp riser or the like underneath
the stem. The combination of a small wheel size and very short head
tube will put your bars too low unless you take extreme measures. BMX
handlebars are a different diameter than road or MTB bars, and their
stems are all very short, so having tall bars means you can tilt them
forward or back to get the right reach.

Steel frame with relatively long chainstays. This will give you a
fighting chance at spreading the rear end from the BMX standard width
of 110mm to something usefully wider for a multi-speed hub. It will
also allow you to add brazed-on details like a derailleur hanger and
shift cable housing stops.

There is one more kind of bike,now long departed, that might be a good
basis for your commuter. Formula One (or F1) was a sort of BMX bike
with gears for racing on autocross-style street courses. They came
and went sometime around 1990, give or take. Such a frame, if you can
find one, will be much taller than a normal BMX bike and set up for 6-
speed derailleur gearing. Haro, Diamondback, and Redline made them.

Good luck finding a suitable bike.

Chalo
 
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