- Oct 25, 2012
[SIZE=10.5000pt]Great blog, I will add this blog to my favorites.[/SIZE]
Originally Posted by joejeweler .
Here's my most used daily commuter. I'll list some details for those who might want to building up something similar.....
I used this XL Dean Titanium Colonial frame i acquired and built it up with durability, ease of maintainence, and comfort in mind. Weight reduction was not the primary focus, although i saved it where i could. Most everything was bought "used",....except for the tires, tubes, brake cables, and saddle.
Continued right shoulder pain and severly reduced range of motion in that shoulder requires i sit up for least aggravation to that condition, as well as stiff neck issues.
Because the Dean frame (designed for 26" wheels) was originally spec'ed for a 80-100mm suspension fork, I used a Surly Steamroller.steel fork and made use of the entire 300mm steerer tube. Most of the steerer tube was well covered by the exceptionally long head tube on this XL Ti frame, yet because it is a MTB frame i have plenty of standover clearance for my 5"10" size when used for the road.
This fork is in 700 wheel size to get the front end up. The 5mm higher rise Chris King baseplate (aka crown race) also helped to bring the front of the bike up to correct the geometry. A Dura Ace front wheel (32 spokes) and a Mavic MA40 rim in 700c size completed the geometry correction.
I used a White Industries Eno Eccentric flip/flop hubbed 26" rear wheel, which of course allows for easy chain tensioning. The freewheel is also a White Industries,....their 18T "Trials" version with 6 pawls and 72 points of engagement for near instantanious power hookup! Front tire is a Serfas Drifter 700x32c inverted tread tire, rear is the same Serfas Drifter in size 26x1.50.
Run this way the handling is excellent, and my "69er" often gets inquiries or a wave from other riders
I've been upgrading parts over the last several months as i've been able to find them used. A custom but NOS Dean titanium short MTB stem was added a few months ago, and most recently a nice Ti Moots braced riser MTB handlebar. The nice Kent Eriksen Ti seatpost has really complemented the Brooks B17 saddle,....and combined with the Ti frame and bigger (for road) street tires has really made for a super comfortable ride!
Because i have some long hills to deal with on some of my routes, i geared it pretty low with the 18T freewheel and a Race Face "Downhill" 40T chainring for 56 gear inches. The fixed side has a dura ace 16T cog for 63 gear inches. When running fixed i can still make the hills sitting down,...just a little slower.
Anyway,......probably will remain my most used ride. Even after a bit of rain, most of the crud comes off splashing a few cups of water over the dirty areas, and then a wipedown with paper towels and she's looking great again. Touchup as needed with a red scotchbrite strip on any of the Ti parts
For those wondering,......i have around $2,100.00 TOTAL into this ride. Considering all the ti parts, a bargain i think.
A few pics:
Hi Joe, you can insert photos by clicking the insert photo button in the post toolbar;Originally Posted by joejeweler .
Well,...being a new poster here, my post was held up for a mod to review. When it posted and i saw it, any edit was then impossible and i didn't realize this forum won't post a direct IMG taged photo like on other forums.
Hi,....thanks for the tip! I changed the preference in my profile to what i think is the right one. Let's see if a few of the above pics of my favorite fixed/SS show up here:steve said:Hi Joe, you can insert photos by clicking the insert photo button in the post toolbar; The IMG tags are only supported when you have the basic editor selected, you can change this in your profile.
You must be from Missouri originally,....you know,...."The Show Me State" :big-smile: OK,...using pictures always makes it easier to picture something. It wasn't just the knob and bolt that were interfering. The upper part of the mount was also,....maybe i wasn't clear on that previously and you were just looking at the bolt. Here is the light mounted as you seem to think would work. As you can see the top of the mounting bracket itself hits the cross brace, and the angle of the light is positioned in a VERY downward position: (note: I removed the threaded bolt with knob to allow me to place the mount through the opening )alfeng said:UMmm ... Â AFAIK, the plastic ([COLOR=FF8C00]?[/COLOR]) knob is superfluous ... Â Maybe I'm not seeing what you are describing, properly ... Â Regardless, I suppose thatÂ this after-the-fact ... I suspect that if you went to your LBS that you could get a replacement ALLEN HEADED bolt which is aboutÂ 1.5cm long ([COLOR=A9A9A9]you may only need a 1.0cm long bolt ... you could always shorten a bolt that is too long[/COLOR]) ...
That is ...Â
- the boltÂ + a washer + a set of 6-for-a-DollarÂ L-bend Hex keysÂ & you would probably ([COLOR=808080]have[/COLOR])Â be([COLOR=808080]en[/COLOR]) good to go!?!
Â Â Â Â
- if you were to feel a need to spend more than $2, then IÂ think there are Titanium aftermarket bolts for Easton'sÂ ZERO OFFSET seatpost cradle which is probably a suitable sizeÂ ...