Lets see your Fixedgear and SS bikes!



Nag456

New Member
Dec 2, 2012
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Sorry if this is a duplicate. The first post seemed to have disappeared. This is a 2001 Bianchi Pista restored to look vintage, somewhat.
 

Nag456

New Member
Dec 2, 2012
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This is restored 2001 Bianchi Pista which is the braised Reynolds 520 chro-mo frame. Interesting bits include decals from Cyclomondo, crankset from Paul Components, Brooks saddle, colour-matched PPG paint and stitched on leather bar covering from Ciclo Di Cuoio. This was never meant to be an authentic recreation rather an homage to the marque.

 

i12ride

Member
Sep 3, 2010
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61
This bike donated all it's XT goodies to go on my "new" 2002 Giant XTC NRS Air Pro build so it got turned into my "new" offroad SS. 34/16 gearing, 105 road cranks with outboard bearings, 4 inch travel fork, Kore stem, SS wheelset from Bianchi Rollo, vbrakes to replace the mech discs also donated, ergo grips, composite platform pedals, Surly singulator, Bontrager plus 10 seat, deore br levers & kept the Panaracer Fire XC Pros, seatpost & yellow anodized riser bars.............all parts were from other bikes modified differently that were just laying around. Nice solid bike with bigtime plush fork. Really light too.





 

i12ride

Member
Sep 3, 2010
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6
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61
Since I can't edit above post to fix pics, here they are.......................

bike before donating all it's XT/Avid goodies


After the tranformation to single speed............














 

DeanoFixie

New Member
Mar 1, 2013
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400
Tryin this shnazy thing out
 

725seafome

New Member
May 11, 2013
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my daily ride to school. i call her "GreatWhiteBuffalo" what do y'all think?





click it.... I dare ya haha
 

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joejeweler

New Member
Oct 13, 2012
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Here's my most used daily commuter. I'll list some details for those who might want to building up something similar.....

I used this XL Dean Titanium Colonial frame i acquired and built it up with durability, ease of maintainence, and comfort in mind. Weight reduction was not the primary focus, although i saved it where i could. Most everything was bought "used",....except for the tires, tubes, brake cables, and saddle.

Continued right shoulder pain and severly reduced range of motion in that shoulder requires i sit up for least aggravation to that condition, as well as stiff neck issues.

Because the Dean frame (designed for 26" wheels) was originally spec'ed for a 80-100mm suspension fork, I used a Surly Steamroller.steel fork and made use of the entire 300mm steerer tube. Most of the steerer tube was well covered by the exceptionally long head tube on this XL Ti frame, yet because it is a MTB frame i have plenty of standover clearance for my 5"10" size when used for the road.

This fork is in 700 wheel size to get the front end up. The 5mm higher rise Chris King baseplate (aka crown race) also helped to bring the front of the bike up to correct the geometry. A Dura Ace front wheel (32 spokes) and a Mavic MA40 rim in 700c size completed the geometry correction.

I used a White Industries Eno Eccentric flip/flop hubbed 26" rear wheel, which of course allows for easy chain tensioning. The freewheel is also a White Industries,....their 18T "Trials" version with 6 pawls and 72 points of engagement for near instantanious power hookup! Front tire is a Serfas Drifter 700x32c inverted tread tire, rear is the same Serfas Drifter in size 26x1.50.

Run this way the handling is excellent, and my "69er" often gets inquiries or a wave from other riders :)

I've been upgrading parts over the last several months as i've been able to find them used. A custom but NOS Dean titanium short MTB stem was added a few months ago, and most recently a nice Ti Moots braced riser MTB handlebar. The nice Kent Eriksen Ti seatpost has really complemented the Brooks B17 saddle,....and combined with the Ti frame and bigger (for road) street tires has really made for a super comfortable ride!

Because i have some long hills to deal with on some of my routes, i geared it pretty low with the 18T freewheel and a Race Face "Downhill" 40T chainring for 56 gear inches. The fixed side has a dura ace 16T cog for 63 gear inches. When running fixed i can still make the hills sitting down,...just a little slower.

Anyway,......probably will remain my most used ride. Even after a bit of rain, most of the crud comes off splashing a few cups of water over the dirty areas, and then a wipedown with paper towels and she's looking great again. Touchup as needed with a red scotchbrite strip on any of the Ti parts :)

For those wondering,......i have around $2,100.00 TOTAL into this ride. Considering all the ti parts, a bargain i think.

A few pics:







 

joejeweler

New Member
Oct 13, 2012
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Originally Posted by joejeweler .

Here's my most used daily commuter. I'll list some details for those who might want to building up something similar.....

I used this XL Dean Titanium Colonial frame i acquired and built it up with durability, ease of maintainence, and comfort in mind. Weight reduction was not the primary focus, although i saved it where i could. Most everything was bought "used",....except for the tires, tubes, brake cables, and saddle.

Continued right shoulder pain and severly reduced range of motion in that shoulder requires i sit up for least aggravation to that condition, as well as stiff neck issues.

Because the Dean frame (designed for 26" wheels) was originally spec'ed for a 80-100mm suspension fork, I used a Surly Steamroller.steel fork and made use of the entire 300mm steerer tube. Most of the steerer tube was well covered by the exceptionally long head tube on this XL Ti frame, yet because it is a MTB frame i have plenty of standover clearance for my 5"10" size when used for the road.

This fork is in 700 wheel size to get the front end up. The 5mm higher rise Chris King baseplate (aka crown race) also helped to bring the front of the bike up to correct the geometry. A Dura Ace front wheel (32 spokes) and a Mavic MA40 rim in 700c size completed the geometry correction.

I used a White Industries Eno Eccentric flip/flop hubbed 26" rear wheel, which of course allows for easy chain tensioning. The freewheel is also a White Industries,....their 18T "Trials" version with 6 pawls and 72 points of engagement for near instantanious power hookup! Front tire is a Serfas Drifter 700x32c inverted tread tire, rear is the same Serfas Drifter in size 26x1.50.

Run this way the handling is excellent, and my "69er" often gets inquiries or a wave from other riders :)

I've been upgrading parts over the last several months as i've been able to find them used. A custom but NOS Dean titanium short MTB stem was added a few months ago, and most recently a nice Ti Moots braced riser MTB handlebar. The nice Kent Eriksen Ti seatpost has really complemented the Brooks B17 saddle,....and combined with the Ti frame and bigger (for road) street tires has really made for a super comfortable ride!

Because i have some long hills to deal with on some of my routes, i geared it pretty low with the 18T freewheel and a Race Face "Downhill" 40T chainring for 56 gear inches. The fixed side has a dura ace 16T cog for 63 gear inches. When running fixed i can still make the hills sitting down,...just a little slower.

Anyway,......probably will remain my most used ride. Even after a bit of rain, most of the crud comes off splashing a few cups of water over the dirty areas, and then a wipedown with paper towels and she's looking great again. Touchup as needed with a red scotchbrite strip on any of the Ti parts :)

For those wondering,......i have around $2,100.00 TOTAL into this ride. Considering all the ti parts, a bargain i think.

A few pics:








Well,...being a new poster here, my post was held up for a mod to review. When it posted and i saw it, any edit was then impossible and i didn't realize this forum won't post a direct IMG taged photo like on other forums.

Anyway, here are some links that WORK regarding the Dean Colonal SS build i outlined above:

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb200/joejeweler/Dean%20Colonal%20SS%20Titanium%2069er/WhiscombeDeanSS007small.jpg

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb200/joejeweler/Dean%20Colonal%20SS%20Titanium%2069er/WhiscombeDeanSS008small.jpg

Recently added Ti Moots braced riser MTB Bar off ebay:
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb200/joejeweler/Dean%20Colonal%20SS%20Titanium%2069er/WhiscombeDeanSS003small.jpg

Eno Eric Flip/Flop Hub set on Fixed Before i added a White Industries 18T "Trials" Freewheel:
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb200/joejeweler/Dean%20Colonel%20Titanium%20Bikes/DeanLargeTitaniumFixie070small.jpg

Dura Ace hub on 700c Mavic MA40 rim brings the geometry in line:
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb200/joejeweler/Dean%20Colonel%20Titanium%20Bikes/DeanLargeTitaniumFixie067small.jpg
 

steve

Administrator
Staff member
Aug 12, 2001
5,275
392
83
Originally Posted by joejeweler .



Well,...being a new poster here, my post was held up for a mod to review. When it posted and i saw it, any edit was then impossible and i didn't realize this forum won't post a direct IMG taged photo like on other forums.
Hi Joe, you can insert photos by clicking the insert photo button in the post toolbar;



The IMG tags are only supported when you have the basic editor selected, you can change this in your profile.
 

joejeweler

New Member
Oct 13, 2012
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steve said:
Hi Joe, you can insert photos by clicking the insert photo button in the post toolbar; The IMG tags are only supported when you have the basic editor selected, you can change this in your profile.
Hi,....thanks for the tip! :cool: I changed the preference in my profile to what i think is the right one. Let's see if a few of the above pics of my favorite fixed/SS show up here:
700
700
700
IT WORKS! :embarrassed: (even clicking on the pics to enlarge them!) thanks again.......
 

joejeweler

New Member
Oct 13, 2012
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I thought i would post a few picks of a recent upgrade, in case some of you had the same "problem" i had mounting a light for best coverage.. The crossbar on my Moots braced riser ti bar was interfering with my light mounting, and i had to place the light way to the outside and angled off a bit. That created way too much light loss on the opposite side. I asked "Ti Cycles" to make me up this custom Ti headset spacer with a 2" piece of handlebar material welded on at 90 degrees. It works very well now, and i really like the lower light position. Because of TOO many bikes and not enough house, i often store this bike among several others in the front hallway, but upside down resting on the grips and seat. I had to remove the light every night previously, but not any more. Anyway, someday i expect to see this idea "borrowed" by some of the parts makers, and produced in aluminum alloy should be much less expensive than in Ti. If you have a similar need, ask around and get it done. Just be sure you have enough height for your light to clear your top tube when turning your bars all the way, or plan to mount it above your stem. A double sided one would be useful also,.....for a light & computer, or double light set up.
1000
1000
1000
1000
 

alfeng

Well-Known Member
Jul 23, 2005
6,723
254
63
Quote: Originally Posted by joejeweler .

I thought i would post a few picks of a recent upgrade, in case some of you had the same "problem" i had mounting a light for best coverage..

The crossbar on my Moots braced riser ti bar was interfering with my light mounting, and i had to place the light way to the outside and angled off a bit. That created way too much light loss on the opposite side.

I asked "Ti Cycles" to make me up this custom Ti headset spacer with a 2" piece of handlebar material welded on at 90 degrees. It works very well now, and i really like the lower light position. Because of TOO many bikes and not enough house, i often store this bike among several others in the front hallway, but upside down resting on the grips and seat. I had to remove the light every night previously, but not any more.

Anyway, someday i expect to see this idea "borrowed" by some of the parts makers, and produced in aluminum alloy should be much less expensive than in Ti. If you have a similar need, ask around and get it done. Just be sure you have enough height for your light to clear your top tube when turning your bars all the way, or plan to mount it above your stem. A double sided one would be useful also,.....for a light & computer, or double light set up.




Nice bike ...

BUT, why couldn't-or-didn't you simply clamp the light somewhere in the below-the-bar position on your current handlebar?!?
 

joejeweler

New Member
Oct 13, 2012
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The answer is the clamp knob on this particular light (a Nite Rider Lumina 650) wouldn't allow it. The space between the lower middle part of the handlebar and the upper cross brace was simply too little. I thought about grinding the tightening knob to see if it would pass through the space, but decided to test it first by completely removing the knob/bolt to check on the light angle that would be available even if i trimmed the knob. By simply holding the entire unit into position, it became clear with this light, with it's deep body and mounting bracket, would never allow a proper angle of the light to the street to work. .....hence the custom headset spacer/bracket. Nice photoshop pic, btw,....but you left out the LONG threaded bolt with knob as shown below. :embarrassed: On other lights with a thinner profile, that might have worked. But i just bought the light this past spring and really like the light output and coverage. Now i have the versitility to use most any light i think.
1000
 

alfeng

Well-Known Member
Jul 23, 2005
6,723
254
63
Quote: Originally Posted by joejeweler .

The answer is the clamp knob on this particular light (a Nite Rider Lumina 650) wouldn't allow it. The space between the lower middle part of the handlebar and the upper cross brace was simply too little.

I thought about grinding the tightening knob to see if it would pass through the space, but decided to test it first by completely removing the knob/bolt to check on the light angle that would be available even if i trimmed the knob.

By simply holding the entire unit into position, it became clear with this light, with it's deep body and mounting bracket, would never allow a proper angle of the light to the street to work.


.....hence the custom headset spacer/bracket.

Nice photoshop pic, btw,....but you left out the LONG threaded bolt with knob as shown below.
embarrassed.png


On other lights with a thinner profile, that might have worked. But i just bought the light this past spring and really like the light output and coverage. Now i have the versitility to use most any light i think.




UMmm ...

AFAIK, the plastic (?) knob is superfluous ...

Maybe I'm not seeing what you are describing, properly ...

Regardless, I suppose that this after-the-fact ...

I suspect that if you went to your LBS that you could get a replacement ALLEN HEADED bolt which is about 1.5cm long (you may only need a 1.0cm long bolt ... you could always shorten a bolt that is too long) ...

That is ...

  • the bolt + a washer + a set of 6-for-a-Dollar L-bend Hex keys & you would probably (have) be(en) good to go!?!

  • if you were to feel a need to spend more than $2, then I think there are Titanium aftermarket bolts for Easton's ZERO OFFSET seatpost cradle which is probably a suitable size ...
 

alfeng

Well-Known Member
Jul 23, 2005
6,723
254
63
Quote: Originally Posted by joejeweler .

I thought i would post a few picks of a recent upgrade, in case some of you had the same "problem" i had mounting a light for best coverage..

The crossbar on my Moots braced riser ti bar was interfering with my light mounting, and i had to place the light way to the outside and angled off a bit. That created way too much light loss on the opposite side.

I asked "Ti Cycles" to make me up this custom Ti headset spacer with a 2" piece of handlebar material welded on at 90 degrees. It works very well now, and i really like the lower light position. Because of TOO many bikes and not enough house, i often store this bike among several others in the front hallway, but upside down resting on the grips and seat. I had to remove the light every night previously, but not any more.

Anyway, someday i expect to see this idea "borrowed" by some of the parts makers, and produced in aluminum alloy should be much less expensive than in Ti. If you have a similar need, ask around and get it done. Just be sure you have enough height for your light to clear your top tube when turning your bars all the way, or plan to mount it above your stem. A double sided one would be useful also,.....for a light & computer, or double light set up.





BTW. When I had a mis-matched V-brake + Road caliper on one bike, I found that regular pull Road levers worked well for BOTH calipers ...

So, that would be true with "regular" levers which would typically be used with Cantilever brake calipers ...

  • the stretch (really, the tensioning of the inevitable slack) in the rear brake cable during braking allowed for a reasonable amount of faux "feel" ...
  • however, the offset of the brake pads on the V-brake was only about 1mm on each side ... it is therefore important to ensure that the rim is true
  • and, the wheel is centered/etc.
[*]so, if I were to run a mixed set of brake calipers, again, I would probably opt for a pair of MINI V-BRAKE calipers for the rear since they are designed to work with "regular" pull brake levers.
 

joejeweler

New Member
Oct 13, 2012
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alfeng said:
UMmm ...   AFAIK, the plastic ([COLOR=FF8C00]?[/COLOR]) knob is superfluous ...   Maybe I'm not seeing what you are describing, properly ...   Regardless, I suppose that this after-the-fact ... I suspect that if you went to your LBS that you could get a replacement ALLEN HEADED bolt which is about 1.5cm long ([COLOR=A9A9A9]you may only need a 1.0cm long bolt ... you could always shorten a bolt that is too long[/COLOR]) ...
That is ... 
  • the bolt + a washer + a set of 6-for-a-Dollar L-bend Hex keys & you would probably ([COLOR=808080]have[/COLOR]) be([COLOR=808080]en[/COLOR]) good to go!?!
  • if you were to feel a need to spend more than $2, then I think there are Titanium aftermarket bolts for Easton's ZERO OFFSET seatpost cradle which is probably a suitable size ...
      
You must be from Missouri originally,....you know,...."The Show Me State" :big-smile: OK,...using pictures always makes it easier to picture something. It wasn't just the knob and bolt that were interfering. The upper part of the mount was also,....maybe i wasn't clear on that previously and you were just looking at the bolt. Here is the light mounted as you seem to think would work. As you can see the top of the mounting bracket itself hits the cross brace, and the angle of the light is positioned in a VERY downward position: (note: I removed the threaded bolt with knob to allow me to place the mount through the opening )
1000
And as you can see, in that position the light field barely covers 5 feet in front of the front tire. This light can usually light up maybe 35 to 45 feet, and allow some speedy night travel. But in the most upright position possible on the handlbar when under the brace,.....this is the light coverage offered:
1000
And if the light mounting bracket is positioned the other way, (with the mount top surface positioned behind the upper brace), this is the furthest forward the light will go. Basically the light is looking almost straight ahead, sending the light into a useless beam directed a block or so away. I didn'd take a picture of any light beam here, because nothing would show up. You can see how straight ahead the light is positioned in this pic:
1000
Anyway,...i hope you can see that using the bottom part of the Moots braced riser ti handlebar to mount this particular light directly just won't work.
 

pcmxa

New Member
Jul 28, 2013
4
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0
3a7uru2u.jpg
Fyxation Eastside with Vittorio xg cross tires. Pretty new and almost all stock. Planning on a new seat post next. Maybe bar end brake levers after that. Sent from my SPH-L300 using Tapatalk 4
 

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