mini 12" bc wheel (with platforms)



Effect.


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> the tip melted so its like all nareled up now



Well, there is a difference between something melting, and something
rounding off. It is perfectly feasible that the bit rounded off, but
not because of the metal, if it is 4130. It probably rounded off
because whoever drilled the plate was trying to make the hole to big too
quickly, and not giving the bit the time to do it's job.

> also when we were useing the all purpose bits, we heated the metal up
> so much that it hardend?



Not unless you heated it to 1600 degrees F and then oil quenched it.
4130 is heat treated at 1600, and then hardened in an oil quenching
process. Suffice to say, no, it wasn't hardened.


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total uni wrote:
> *the tip melted so its like all nareled up now
>
> it might not be 4130 but it is sure strong *



First your sure its 4130 because your family is rich and you have 2
private airplanes, now you don't know? A little fishy I think...


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I hate to say I told you so but. I told you so. I knew it wasn't fancy
aircraft grade metal, and I know, I could break it with ease... I don't
doubt that he could easily get 4130 Aircraft Grade Steel(you can buy it
mega cheap...) I just doubt its anything more than a basic Iron or Steel
plate...


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Right. And if that is the case (that is it's 1/16th steel, which he
tells me) then I can bend it by hand. Let alone my massive girth JUMPING
on it.


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i kind of stole this from darren


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Catboy wrote:
> *
>
> I think he wants to see somegirth-a-flying. In otherwords, he is
> saddened by you not jumping on it... *




That can be rectified. Although I think it would be more of me jumping
-through- it.


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Actually, now that I see it from that angle, the metal actually does
look more like 1/8 than 1/16.

Sorry for the misjudgement guys.

Total-Uni, do you know the thickness of the metal?


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Actually, now that I see it from that angle, the metal actually does
look more like 1/8 than 1/16.

Sorry for the misjudgement guys.

Total-Uni, do you know the thickness of the metal?


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Actually, now that I see it from that angle, the metal actually does
look more like 1/8 than 1/16.

Sorry for the misjudgement guys.

Total-Uni, do you know the thickness of the metal?


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digitalattrition wrote:
> *
> Total-Uni, do you know the thickness of the metal?
> *




I asked him earlier because I thought it was a little thick for 1/16th
too. He said it was 1/16th. Wierd. But I can bend 1/16th steel by hand
so it would have no chance against me riding it or looking at it
angrily.


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TheObieOne3226 wrote:
> *
>
> Pardon? *



He won't have to worry about you jumping "through" it, and it will
probably hold him.

David


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However much I don't believe that total uni has drilled titanium (just
as I don't believe he made 5 10" bc wheels in 1 day), I will agree with
him that tianium is far more difficult to drill through than most alloys
of steel, including 4130 chromoly. Titanium will go through 1 good grade
end mill every few minutes of cutting. The density of a material is
irrelevant. Lead is extremely easy to cut, but it's far denser than
steel. Titanium is extremely hard and not readily machined. It has the
tendency to rip little bits of the cutting edge off of the bit, rapidly
dulling it. In addition, it can be known to micro-weld it'sself to the
bit, dulling the bit even further. Most likely what happeed was total
uni was either cutting way to fast, as digitalattrition said, or he was
running the bit at too high rpms, or a combo of the two. He also
could've been drilling without any cutting fluid, which isn't the wisest
of things.

I don't believe that was 4130 chromoly on that BC wheel, since it was so
rusted.

Catboy: Don't be stupid. Noone ever has, or ever will say that harper's
hub at CMW is or was stronger than a profile hub (that wasn't the idea,
anyways. Steve just wanted to see how much it would take to break or
bend something in the drivetrain. If it was something small, then it
wouldn't be strong enough, but if it were big, then it would be
acceptable). That was something you made up by yourself. That hub was
clearly weaker than profiles, and Steve never expected it to be any
stronger. Ryan did multiple drops of that size on the Tahoe Rim trail on
his muni, and he never warped his axle. He cracked his right crank on
the 3rd or fourth try, but it never broke. If the harper's hub were
stronger than profiles, than the kooka cranks would've broken long
before the axle warped.

Also, I'm soon to be riding a profile hub that's made of the same grade
of stainless as harper's and after talking to Steve, who tried it at
moab, he said it definitely was strong, but not quite as much so as
profiles. To repeat myself, my point is that the hub harper rode at CMW
was not anywhere near stronger than profiles. Noone but you ever claimed
it was.

Hey Robbie, there's no reason to bother challenging everyone who builds
unicycles to build a hub and crankset Ryan can't break. Everything will
break eventually. Something that weighs 6 lbs but won't break is
pointless. Profile cranks are plenty strong. More to the point, profiles
have a warranty, which beats everything else. People who ride as hard as
Ryan will break everything, so it's just a question of whether they last
a reasonable amount of time before hand, and if they have a warranty.


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total uni wrote:
> *i kind of stole this from darren *



Oh, nice work there. That's a great way for trying to get us to think
highly of you :p Now stop with the aircraft grade metallic lies your
spreading all around here.


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