Track Disc Wheel Question

[Rob]

I have a question about track Disk Wheels...or any track
wheels really..can one use a quick release on the track
or must in be bolt and nut type of axel ? are they hard
to change ?

Thanks Rob Wille

 

[Davey Crockett]

"Rob" <[email protected]> writes:

> I have a question about track Disk Wheels...or any track
> wheels really..can one use a quick release on the track or
> must in be bolt and nut type of axel ? are they hard to
> change ?
>
> Thanks Rob Wille
>
>
You need track-bolted hub lockers/retainers rather than a
quick-release system.

But it isn't hard to do. Simply get yourself a couple of
15mm wrenches and eat your porridge.

--
le Vent a Dos Davey Crockett Six-Day site:
http://members.rogers.com/sixday/sixday.html

 

[Andy Coggan]

"Rob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:cqNdc.61719$Pk3.47585@pd7tw1no...
> I have a question about track Disk Wheels...or any
> track wheels
really..can
> one use a quick release on the track or must in be bolt
> and nut type of
axel
> ? are they hard to change ?

If you'd rather not (or can't )change the axle, you can also
use a road wheel by replacing the skewer with one of the
Allen head non-quick-release types. However, even if you've
got a road wheel than can be used with a fixed cog (e.g.,
older Specialized Ultralight), I'd be hesistant about doing
this on the rear, as you might easily pull the wheel to the
side with a strong jump. It works just fine with a front
wheel, however.

Andy Coggan

 

[Warren]

In article <[email protected]>, Andy
Coggan <[email protected]> wrote:

> "Rob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:cqNdc.61719$Pk3.47585@pd7tw1no...
> > I have a question about track Disk Wheels...or any track
> > wheels
> really..can
> > one use a quick release on the track or must in be bolt
> > and nut type of
> axel
> > ? are they hard to change ?
>
> If you'd rather not (or can't )change the axle, you can
> also use a road wheel by replacing the skewer with one of
> the Allen head non-quick-release types. However, even if
> you've got a road wheel than can be used with a fixed cog
> (e.g., older Specialized Ultralight), I'd be hesistant
> about doing this on the rear, as you might easily pull the
> wheel to the side with a strong jump. It works just fine
> with a front wheel, however.

Andy, your concerns are unfounded. ZIPP disk rear wheels
are one of the most popular track rear wheels and they use
an allen screw with washer that is almost identical to the
allen bolt method used on the replacement skewers with
allen screw ends sold at Excel Sports and elsewhere for
this purpose.

For the original poster, best to ask the officials at
your local track about their policy on skewers. Some
will allow skewers on the front wheel if the lever is
taped to the fork.

-WG

 

[Carl Sundquist]

"warren" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Andy, your concerns are unfounded. ZIPP disk rear wheels
> are one of the most popular track rear wheels and they use
> an allen screw with washer that is almost identical to the
> allen bolt method used on the replacement skewers with
> allen screw ends sold at Excel Sports and elsewhere for
> this purpose.
>

I'll believe that if you can show me some data where the
clamping pressure of the skewers is similar to that of the
ZIPP method or the traditional axle bolts.

 

[Bob Schwartz]

As others have mentioned, use allen head skewers for
front wheels.

I've used the allen head skewers for rea wheels also. I
grease the threads to get extra clamping force. But a much
better way to go is to use a cassette converter if it is a
Shimano hub: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/fixed-
hubs.html

Its at the top of the page. Switching back and forth is not
instant but not too bad.

Bob Schwartz [email protected]

 

[John Dacey]

On Sat, 10 Apr 2004 15:35:55 GMT, warren <[email protected]>
wrote:

>In article
><[email protected]>,
>Andy Coggan <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> "Rob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:cqNdc.61719$Pk3.47585@pd7tw1no...
>> > I have a question about track Disk Wheels...or any
>> > track wheels
>> really..can
>> > one use a quick release on the track or must in be bolt
>> > and nut type of
>> axel
>> > ? are they hard to change ?
>>
>> If you'd rather not (or can't )change the axle, you can
>> also use a road wheel by replacing the skewer with one of
>> the Allen head non-quick-release types. However, even if
>> you've got a road wheel than can be used with a fixed cog
>> (e.g., older Specialized Ultralight), I'd be hesistant
>> about doing this on the rear, as you might easily pull
>> the wheel to the side with a strong jump. It works just
>> fine with a front wheel, however.
>
>Andy, your concerns are unfounded. ZIPP disk rear wheels
>are one of the most popular track rear wheels and they use
>an allen screw with washer that is almost identical to the
>allen bolt method used on the replacement skewers with
>allen screw ends sold at Excel Sports and elsewhere for
>this purpose.

It's worth noting that the newest generation of Zipp's track
hubs and disc wheel have abandoned the Allen-head bolts in
favor of traditionally nutted axles. The old system was
pretty marginal (particularly at the rear), but it worked as
well and as often as it did largely because there was only a
gap of a few mm between the head of the bolt and the axle
end into which it was threaded.

On the other hand, the Allen-head replacement skewers to
which you refer must pass through the entire over-locknut
axle width plus the left and right dropout before engaging
the nut at the other end. On the front, that's a distance of
110 mm or so, the rear must span around 130 mm. Consider
that you're winding up a slender fastener (~4 mm in
diameter) that's twenty times (or more) as long as it is
wide to a recommended torque value that's second only to the
torque normally applied to secure your bike's cranks. Think
you can get it tight enough for consistent security without
wringing the head off?

-------------------------------
John Dacey Business Cycles, Miami, Florida
http://www.businesscycles.com Now in our twenty-first year.
Our catalog of track equipment: eighth year online
-------------------------------

 

[Warren]

In article <[email protected]>, John Dacey
<[email protected]> wrote:

> On Sat, 10 Apr 2004 15:35:55 GMT, warren
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >In article
> ><[email protected]>,
> >Andy Coggan <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >> "Rob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> news:cqNdc.61719$Pk3.47585@pd7tw1no...
> >> > I have a question about track Disk Wheels...or any
> >> > track wheels
> >> really..can
> >> > one use a quick release on the track or must in be
> >> > bolt and nut type of
> >> axel
> >> > ? are they hard to change ?
> >>
> >> If you'd rather not (or can't )change the axle, you can
> >> also use a road wheel by replacing the skewer with one
> >> of the Allen head non-quick-release types. However,
> >> even if you've got a road wheel than can be used with a
> >> fixed cog (e.g., older Specialized Ultralight), I'd be
> >> hesistant about doing this on the rear, as you might
> >> easily pull the wheel to the side with a strong jump.
> >> It works just fine with a front wheel, however.
> >
> >Andy, your concerns are unfounded. ZIPP disk rear wheels
> >are one of the most popular track rear wheels and they
> >use an allen screw with washer that is almost identical
> >to the allen bolt method used on the replacement skewers
> >with allen screw ends sold at Excel Sports and elsewhere
> >for this purpose.
>
> It's worth noting that the newest generation of Zipp's
> track hubs and disc wheel have abandoned the Allen-head
> bolts in favor of traditionally nutted axles. The old
> system was pretty marginal (particularly at the rear), but
> it worked as well and as often as it did largely because
> there was only a gap of a few mm between the head of the
> bolt and the axle end into which it was threaded.
>
> On the other hand, the Allen-head replacement skewers to
> which you refer must pass through the entire over-locknut
> axle width plus the left and right dropout before engaging
> the nut at the other end. On the front, that's a distance
> of 110 mm or so, the rear must span around 130 mm.
> Consider that you're winding up a slender fastener (~4 mm
> in diameter) that's twenty times (or more) as long as it
> is wide to a recommended torque value that's second only
> to the torque normally applied to secure your bike's
> cranks. Think you can get it tight enough for consistent
> security without wringing the head off?

Hasn't happened yet.

-WG

 

[Warren]

In article <[email protected]>, Carl Sundquist
<[email protected]> wrote:

> "warren" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >
> > Andy, your concerns are unfounded. ZIPP disk rear wheels
> > are one of the most popular track rear wheels and they
> > use an allen screw with washer that is almost identical
> > to the allen bolt method used on the replacement skewers
> > with allen screw ends sold at Excel Sports and elsewhere
> > for this purpose.
> >
>
> I'll believe that if you can show me some data where the
> clamping pressure of the skewers is similar to that of the
> ZIPP method or the traditional axle bolts.

It just has to work, and it does. If you're really worried
about pulling the wheel you can also use those adjustable
clips that go around the axle and droput.

The problem that I see with the ZIPP allen bolts is that
some people don't have the correct amount of axle exposed in
the dropout. I find these two allen screw methods easier
than the traditional 15mm bolts because the 15mm bolts and
their washers are easier to move around (change chain
tightness) while you're tightening them.

-WG

 

[Howard Kveck]

In article <120420040907251001%[email protected]>,
warren <[email protected]> wrote:

> The problem that I see with the ZIPP allen bolts is that
> some people don't have the correct amount of axle exposed
> in the dropout. I find these two allen screw methods
> easier than the traditional 15mm bolts because the 15mm
> bolts and their washers are easier to move around (change
> chain tightness) while you're tightening them.
>
> -WG

I haven't seen the Zipp bolt setup, but it sounds a lot
like the arrangement on the Phil Wood hubs, with one
difference. The Phils don't have any axle that goes into
the dropout, as the sockethead cap screws have a washer
that has a sleeve section that is the diameter of the
axle. You are correct that those are pretty easy to work
when adjusting chain tension. The bolt/washer setup
doesn't seem to move the wheel around when you're
tightening them.

You can definitely put far more tension on those bolts (I
believe they're 8mm) than you can put on a bolt-style
skewer that goes all the way across a hub. Those are only
a 5mm bolt, and will stretch like mad because of all the
unsupported length. I had Control Tech skewers like that
for a while on my road bike, and I could pull a wheel
crooked in angled dropouts when taking off from a light
while seated.

--
tanx, Howard

Q: Can we call it a quagmire yet?

remove YOUR SHOES to reply, ok?