Upgrading, the most bang for your buck?

[82zman]

I have a 2005 Trek 1000. I got it new for 470.00 early this spring as the new 2006 models were surfacing. I am starting to ride more and more and was wondering (since i am new to this sport, formely a competitve runner) where do I get the most bang for my buck when upgrading..Cranks? shifters Wheel Set etc.. From what I can tell and what I have read the frame is worthy of upgrade, especially at the price I got the bike brand new.


Those of you who know components well please chime in.

This is its current stock set up:

FRAMESET:
FRAME: Alpha SL Aluminum
FORK: Bontrager Carbon

WHEELS:
WHEELS: Alloy hubs; Alex rims
TIRES: Bontrager Select, 700x25c

DRIVETRAIN:
SHIFTERS: Shimano Sora
FRONT DERAILLEUR: Shimano 2203
REAR DERAILLEUR: Shimano Tiagra
CRANKSET: Bontrager Sport 52/42/30
CASSETTE: SRAM 850 12-26, 8 speed
PEDALS: Alloy/nylon road w/clips and straps

COMPONENTS:
SADDLE: Bontrager Race Lux
SEATPOST: Bontrager Sport
HANDLEBARS: Bontrager Sport, 26.0
STEM: Bontrager Select, 17 degree
HEADSET: Aheadset, semi-cartridge, sealed
BRAKESET: Alloy dual pivot w/Shimano Sora STI levers

 

[JTE83]

The best bang for your buck is when you buy the best bike that you can afford without upgrading.

For the Trek 1000, get better wheels first, then a crank.

 

[RickF]

+1 for wheels.

 

[BillM]

I think you'd be better off buying a whole new bike with the components you want.

It's never as cheap as you think to upgrade a base model bike.

 

[fauxpas]

You could always just wait for stuff to fail, then upgrade to 105 level...

 

[capwater]

First off, ditch the 25mm tires and gt som decent 23mm, Michelin Carbons or Hutchinson Carbon Comps can be had cheap these days. I would avoid upgrading any of the components since it would be far cheaper to buy a new bike later on. You're limited as to how much you can upgrade since you have an 8 speed. Front and rear deraillers aren't going to give you any noticeable improvement. Wheels are a good upgrade since they are portable to a future bike. Ride it like ya stole it and they buy a new bike later. You can always keep the Trek 1000 as a beater/trainer or resell it to a newbie.

 

[alfeng]

I have a 2005 Trek 1000. I got it new for 470.00 early this spring as the new 2006 models were surfacing. I am starting to ride more and more and was wondering (since i am new to this sport, formely a competitve runner) where do I get the most bang for my buck when upgrading..Cranks? shifters Wheel Set etc.. From what I can tell and what I have read the frame is worthy of upgrade, especially at the price I got the bike brand new.


Those of you who know components well please chime in.

This is its current stock set up:

WHEELS:
WHEELS: Alloy hubs; Alex rims
TIRES: Bontrager Select, 700x25c

DRIVETRAIN:
SHIFTERS: Shimano Sora
FRONT DERAILLEUR: Shimano 2203
REAR DERAILLEUR: Shimano Tiagra
CRANKSET: Bontrager Sport 52/42/30
CASSETTE: SRAM 850 12-26, 8 speed
PEDALS: Alloy/nylon road w/clips and straps

Buy some lighter tubes ... if they still make GREEN tubes, spring for a pair (you'll need a different tire-patch kit) ...

Slightly smaller, 700x23 tires are a good choice if your roads are in reasonable condition.

Campagnolo levers (you can index them to Shimano derailleurs) -- unlike Shimano's shifters, the least expensive Campagnolo shifter is as almost as good as the most expensive ... the difference is in break-in time AND bling factor.

THOSE changes will give you the most bang for your buck.

Learn to lace up & true your own wheels ... you'll end up with nicer wheels because you can spec the components. Alternatively, get a pair of MAVIC Open Pro rims laced onto Ultegra hub wheels from one of the mail order outlets (e.g., Colorado Cyclist, Nashbar, etc.) when they put them on sale at the end of the season.

 

[rowskein]

I have a Trek 1000. I upgraded the wheels and tires and it made a good difference. Upgrading the rider i found makes a vast difference! (Speaking for myself of course)

A nice thing about upgrading the wheels on it is, if i'm riding in town or to work I pop the old wheels back on and don't have to worry about someone steeling my good wheels. For some reason no one wants the Rigida wheels it came with, they're not that bad and I'll be using them for winter as well.

I also have a Madone 5.2 but my bond with the 1000 is strong, i like the bike even though it is a bone shaker at times. I put some extra brake levers on it. I can't remember the correct name for them but it lets you brake from the top of the handle bars. Nice for a change of position if you're doing a long run.

 

[geo8rge]

Overhaul the bike, assuming you did that.

Which parts are a problem?

If it is the hubs try something that has better seals or even phil Wood for low maintenance.

Chain, try a stainless steel chain.

Thud buster?

Do the breaks need constant adjustment?

new saddle / handlebars?

I do not believe any upgrades except hubs will affect performance much. You can reduce maintenance alot by getting better stuff. Once you get decent components (which you have) most big performance issues are really poor maintenance. Good stuff stays maintained longer.

 

[lks]

I have a 2005 Trek 1000. I got it new for 470.00 early this spring as the new 2006 models were surfacing. I am starting to ride more and more and was wondering (since i am new to this sport, formely a competitve runner) where do I get the most bang for my buck when upgrading..Cranks? shifters Wheel Set etc.. From what I can tell and what I have read the frame is worthy of upgrade, especially at the price I got the bike brand new.


Those of you who know components well please chime in.

This is its current stock set up:

FRAMESET:
FRAME: Alpha SL Aluminum
FORK: Bontrager Carbon

WHEELS:
WHEELS: Alloy hubs; Alex rims
TIRES: Bontrager Select, 700x25c

DRIVETRAIN:
SHIFTERS: Shimano Sora
FRONT DERAILLEUR: Shimano 2203
REAR DERAILLEUR: Shimano Tiagra
CRANKSET: Bontrager Sport 52/42/30
CASSETTE: SRAM 850 12-26, 8 speed
PEDALS: Alloy/nylon road w/clips and straps

COMPONENTS:
SADDLE: Bontrager Race Lux
SEATPOST: Bontrager Sport
HANDLEBARS: Bontrager Sport, 26.0
STEM: Bontrager Select, 17 degree
HEADSET: Aheadset, semi-cartridge, sealed
BRAKESET: Alloy dual pivot w/Shimano Sora STI levers

I would first make sure you had the best bike fit, and a seat and bar that was comfortable. Your best performance will be with the least discomfort. Next would be flawless shifting. Otherwise, being irritated will distract you from your best performance. For most people, a double is significantly easier to shift and keep adjusted. If you climb a lot, determine if you have the best gearing for you ability. On the flats, 700x23s and a good chain, assuming you rings & cogs are not worn out, will give a quieter ride with a little more handling precision. Personally, I think it's too easy to get too far into an upgrade, before you discover you still havn't got what you want and the money has been wasted, compared to what you could have got by starting from scratch. If you are set on going ahead, I would set a reasonable dollar limit and be willing to live with whatever you end up with.

 

[dhk2]

I think you'd be better off buying a whole new bike with the components you want.

It's never as cheap as you think to upgrade a base model bike.

Agree that tires and tubes would be the best upgrade in terms of ride and performance. Beyond that ~$100 expense, would think that upgrading a Trek 1000 is a waste of money. Believe the frame is OK, but like everything else on the bike, it's designed down to a value price point. You could spend three or four times the cost of the bike, and still have a Trek 1000, and then end up buying your next bike anyway.

Not saying the Trek 1000 is a bad bike in any way. But just that you'll get a better bang for the buck by jumping right to a higher model Trek or other off the shelf bike.

A buddy here upgraded from his 2003 1000C to a Madone 5.2 this spring. He had spent some money upgrading the 1000 (fork, wheels, 105 shifting) and considered changing out the frame. In the end, he decided the new Madone at a discount was the better way to go, plus he's got the 1000 as his back-up beater now.

Thankfully, the new Madone didn't really make him noticeably faster.....he kills me on the climbs now, just about same as he did on the 1000.

 

[Retro Grouch]

Why that's easy. Get some new wheels.

A new wheelset will not only give you a noticeable perfornmance improvement, but it's also something that everybody else can see so it adds a "bling" factor.

A new wheelset is also something that's portable so you can take it with you whenever you decide to buy yourself a new bike.

Finally, a new wheelset givess you have some ride options. You can install a hill climb cassette on one or install more puncture resistant tires on one and change wheelsets to suit different situations.

 

[goaliedad30]

Clipless pedals & shoes ...

 

[n1civicsi]

clipless pedals and shoes!!! cant believe only one person reccomended this. Only thing i would spend money on that bike is comfort related parts and wheels only because if you buy a nice set you can use them after you retire the bike. Oh and maybe brake pads, depending on the type of riding you do.

 

[Bro Deal]

I am starting to ride more and more and was wondering (since i am new to this sport, formely a competitve runner) where do I get the most bang for my buck when upgrading

If you live somewhere that has four seasons, I would consider upgrading your riding accessories. Arm, knee, and leg warmers will allow you to ride in temperatures 15 - 20 degrees F cooler than you would with bare arms and legs. You could then add things like a wind proof vest, tights, wind proof shoe covers, neoprene booties, cycling jacket, etc. The point I am making is buy what allows you to ride more.

 

[bobbyOCR]

If you live somewhere that has four seasons, I would consider upgrading your riding accessories. Arm, knee, and leg warmers will allow you to ride in temperatures 15 - 20 degrees F cooler than you would with bare arms and legs. You could then add things like a wind proof vest, tights, wind proof shoe covers, neoprene booties, cycling jacket, etc. The point I am making is buy what allows you to ride more.

Excellent point. These are probably the best bang for your buck, as more riding will bring you more enjoyment, fitness and speed than any new product for your bike. When you grow to be an addict, you will probably change your bike anyway.

 

[backtobiking]

For the Trek 1000 I would make it as comfortable as I could. Any place where You contact the bike; seat/bars/pedals. Clipless pedals are a great upgrade. Wheels is a good investment. As things wear out maybe upgraded components. Depends on how much you like the bike. Depending on what you want to do one might be better off stepping up to a new bike.

 

[JTE83]

Just put Performance Titan wheels to upgrade the bike. Put a rack and pannier on it to make it you commuter bike / bad weather bike / spare bike. Then get a real nice bike like a Kestrel Talon or Cervelo Soloist Team for $2200 to $2400.

My latest bike was a 2006 Raleigh Prestige modified with 1350 gram Ricthey Protocol wheels , Stronglight Pulsion Crank, Token BB, Astrale 8 computer, and a Polar Power Output kit for around $2350. This will be my racing bike while learning to ride in the pack if I race, as I can't afford to crash my really expensive $4000 bikes (2 of them).

If you get a real nice bike riding will be inspiring and a pleasure to know that you'll be fast.

 

[nbm400]

Clipless pedals and shoes first. Then some new wheels and tires.

A cheapie computer and a seat bag w/multi tool, pump, spare tube, and patch kit are a must haves in my book.

 

[PeterF]

Why that's easy. Get some new wheels.

A new wheelset will not only give you a noticeable perfornmance improvement, but it's also something that everybody else can see so it adds a "bling" factor.

A new wheelset is also something that's portable so you can take it with you whenever you decide to buy yourself a new bike.

Finally, a new wheelset givess you have some ride options. You can install a hill climb cassette on one or install more puncture resistant tires on one and change wheelsets to suit different situations.

Agree with wheels. It's probably the best way to gain performance. Keep the old ones as a spare set. Always good to have an extra set in case your primary ones are in the shop.