Vintage gear: Center-pull caliper questions

[U.S. Blues]

I've recently installed on my old 27" road frame a NOS set
of Tourney center-pull calipers. Hopefully, someone with
some familiarity with these can help me out.

1) I wanted to limit the amount of lever travel, so I set
them up so the pads would ride just off the surface of
the rim. In order to allow room for micro-adjustment on
the barrels, I did this by squeezing the calipers closed
while bolting the yoke onto the cable. This worked out
just fine -- I was left with enough thread on the barrels
to complete the adjustment. HOWEVER -- this position
makes it impossible to disengage the caliper when I want
to remove the wheel. I simply can't close the calipers
enough to remove the yoke from the straddle cable. Do I
need to loosen them up and just live with the longer
lever travel, or does anyone know of any other tricks to
solve this problem?

2) I suppose with such long-reach calipers I shouldn't be
suprised, but when applying my rear brake, I frequently
get a very loud groaning sound, as if a resonance has
been set up in the wheel itself. I thought it might be
the 'vintage' pads that came on the calipers, but it
still occurs after replacing the pads with Kool Stops.
Any ideas that can help me silence the thing?

 

[dsr]

On 1 Jun 2004 09:02:17 -0700, [email protected] (U.S. Blues)
wrote:

>I've recently installed on my old 27" road frame a NOS set
>of Tourney center-pull calipers. Hopefully, someone with
>some familiarity with these can help me out.
>
>1) I wanted to limit the amount of lever travel, so I set
> them up so the pads would ride just off the surface of
> the rim. In order to allow room for micro-adjustment on
> the barrels, I did this by squeezing the calipers closed
> while bolting the yoke onto the cable. This worked out
> just fine -- I was left with enough thread on the
> barrels to complete the adjustment. HOWEVER -- this
> position makes it impossible to disengage the caliper
> when I want to remove the wheel. I simply can't close
> the calipers enough to remove the yoke from the straddle
> cable. Do I need to loosen them up and just live with
> the longer lever travel, or does anyone know of any
> other tricks to solve this problem?
>
>2) I suppose with such long-reach calipers I shouldn't be
> suprised, but when applying my rear brake, I frequently
> get a very loud groaning sound, as if a resonance has
> been set up in the wheel itself. I thought it might be
> the 'vintage' pads that came on the calipers, but it
> still occurs after replacing the pads with Kool Stops.
> Any ideas that can help me silence the thing?

Just loosen up the barrel adjuster when you need to remove
the wheel. I tend to use the barrel adjuster to find high
spots on the rim when truing my wheels rather than remove my
wheel because of this inconvenience.

 

[Rick Onanian]

On 1 Jun 2004 09:02:17 -0700, [email protected] (U.S.
Blues) wrote:
>center-pull calipers. Hopefully, someone with some
>familiarity with
>
>squeezing the calipers closed while bolting the yoke onto
>the cable. This worked out just fine -- I was left with
>enough thread on the barrels to complete the adjustment.
>HOWEVER -- this position makes it impossible to disengage
>the caliper when I want to remove the wheel.

Release by removing the straddle cable from the yoke.
Even with close clearance (I like short lever travel
before engagement too), there's sufficient slack to do
it, if a little tight. Using a third-hand or a
carpenter's spring clamp helps (makes it easier when you
first bolt the yoke on, too).

The front brake on mine also has a headset-mounted cable
hanger that has is slotted to allow removal of the cable. I
still must remove the straddle at the rear, though. It's
actually easier to leave the straddle on the yoke and
remove one end of it from the caliper, now that I think
about it. I keep the tires on it narrow enough to clear the
brake pads anyway.

>2) I suppose with such long-reach calipers I shouldn't be
> suprised, but when applying my rear brake, I frequently
> get a very loud groaning sound, as if a resonance has
> been set up in the wheel itself. I thought it might be
> the 'vintage' pads that came on the calipers, but it
> still occurs after replacing the pads with Kool Stops.
> Any ideas that can help me silence the thing?

Same here, but I really haven't given it much effort. I
figure, automatic noise-maker/arrival-announcer. I did try
using steel wool on the rim's brake track, and I probably
tried filing the pads or something...that was last year, I
don't remember. There's loads of information for quieting
brake squeal if you google groups.
--
Rick Onanian

 

[Mseries]

U.S. Blues wrote:
> I've recently installed on my old 27" road frame a NOS set
> of Tourney center-pull calipers. Hopefully, someone with
> some familiarity with these can help me out.
>
> 1) I wanted to limit the amount of lever travel, so I set
> them up so the pads would ride just off the surface of
> the rim. In order to allow room for micro-adjustment on
> the barrels, I did this by squeezing the calipers
> closed while bolting the yoke onto the cable. This
> worked out just fine -- I was left with enough thread
> on the barrels to complete the adjustment. HOWEVER --
> this position makes it impossible to disengage the
> caliper when I want to remove the wheel. I simply can't
> close the calipers enough to remove the yoke from the
> straddle cable. Do I need to loosen them up and just
> live with the longer lever travel, or does anyone know
> of any other tricks to solve this problem?
>
> 2) I suppose with such long-reach calipers I shouldn't be
> suprised, but when applying my rear brake, I frequently
> get a very loud groaning sound, as if a resonance has
> been set up in the wheel itself. I thought it might be
> the 'vintage' pads that came on the calipers, but it
> still occurs after replacing the pads with Kool Stops.
> Any ideas that can help me silence the thing?

I have Weinman centre pulls on my tourer, they levers have a
QR built in to allow the calipers to be widened for wheel
removal. I replaced the original levers recently with some
Shimano Exage Motion ones that also have the QR function.
The old Weinman levers are available for sale, they date
from around 1987. I am in the UK so shipping may be
prohibitive.

 

[U.S. Blues]

Rick Onanian <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> On 1 Jun 2004 09:02:17 -0700, [email protected]
> (U.S. Blues) wrote:
> >center-pull calipers. Hopefully, someone with some
> >familiarity with
> >
> >squeezing the calipers closed while bolting the yoke onto
> >the cable. This worked out just fine -- I was left with
> >enough thread on the barrels to complete the adjustment.
> >HOWEVER -- this position makes it impossible to disengage
> >the caliper when I want to remove the wheel.
>
> Release by removing the straddle cable from the yoke. Even
> with close clearance (I like short lever travel before
> engagement too), there's sufficient slack to do it, if a
> little tight. Using a third-hand or a carpenter's spring
> clamp helps (makes it easier when you first bolt the yoke
> on, too).

That's my first choice, but even with the barrels loosened
as far as they'll go, I can't get enough travel to raise the
straddle high enough. Hmmm... I wonder if I should try one
of those wide yokes they make for cantilevers? For now, I
guess, I'll just have to live with more lever travel.

>
> The front brake on mine also has a headset-mounted cable
> hanger that has is slotted to allow removal of the cable.
> I still must remove the straddle at the rear, though. It's
> actually easier to leave the straddle on the yoke and
> remove one end of it from the caliper, now that I think
> about it. I keep the tires on it narrow enough to clear
> the brake pads anyway.
>

Another poster mentioned the slotted hanger, but I've not
found one yet. I'll check out LooseScrews and Bikeville from
time to time.

> >2) I suppose with such long-reach calipers I shouldn't be
> > suprised, but when applying my rear brake, I
> > frequently get a very loud groaning sound, as if a
> > resonance has been set up in the wheel itself. I
> > thought it might be the 'vintage' pads that came on
> > the calipers, but it still occurs after replacing the
> > pads with Kool Stops. Any ideas that can help me
> > silence the thing?
>
> Same here, but I really haven't given it much effort. I
> figure, automatic noise-maker/arrival-announcer. I did try
> using steel wool on the rim's brake track, and I probably
> tried filing the pads or something...that was last year, I
> don't remember. There's loads of information for quieting
> brake squeal if you google groups.

I've pretty much just decided to live with it. It's only
a problem with my rear brake, which I don't use that
much anyway.

 

[U.S. Blues]

"MSeries" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> U.S. Blues wrote:
> > I've recently installed on my old 27" road frame a NOS
> > set of Tourney center-pull calipers. Hopefully, someone
> > with some familiarity with these can help me out.
> >
> > 1) I wanted to limit the amount of lever travel, so I
> > set them up so the pads would ride just off the
> > surface of the rim. In order to allow room for micro-
> > adjustment on the barrels, I did this by squeezing
> > the calipers closed while bolting the yoke onto the
> > cable. This worked out just fine -- I was left with
> > enough thread on the barrels to complete the
> > adjustment. HOWEVER -- this position makes it
> > impossible to disengage the caliper when I want to
> > remove the wheel. I simply can't close the calipers
> > enough to remove the yoke from the straddle cable. Do
> > I need to loosen them up and just live with the
> > longer lever travel, or does anyone know of any other
> > tricks to solve this problem?
> >
> > 2) I suppose with such long-reach calipers I shouldn't
> > be suprised, but when applying my rear brake, I
> > frequently get a very loud groaning sound, as if a
> > resonance has been set up in the wheel itself. I
> > thought it might be the 'vintage' pads that came on
> > the calipers, but it still occurs after replacing the
> > pads with Kool Stops. Any ideas that can help me
> > silence the thing?
>
> I have Weinman centre pulls on my tourer, they levers have
> a QR built in to allow the calipers to be widened for
> wheel removal. I replaced the original levers recently
> with some Shimano Exage Motion ones that also have the QR
> function. The old Weinman levers are available for sale,
> they date from around 1987. I am in the UK so shipping may
> be prohibitive.

The Tourneys also have slots where the straddles mount, but
the slots are at about 10 degrees or so from verticle in the
wrong direction. There's no way to squeeze the caliper
enough to release the straddle.

 

[Rick Onanian]

On 2 Jun 2004 06:13:51 -0700, [email protected] (U.S.
Blues) wrote:
>Another poster mentioned the slotted hanger, but I've not
>found one yet. I'll check out LooseScrews and Bikeville
>from time to time.
...
>I've pretty much just decided to live with it. It's only
>a problem with my rear brake, which I don't use that
>much anyway.

You might try cutting your own slot in the hanger, if it
looks like it will hold together. I wouldn't do it for the
front, but in the rear, you might get away with it.
--
Rick Onanian

 

[Thomas Reynolds]

[email protected] (U.S. Blues) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I've recently installed on my old 27" road frame a NOS set
> of Tourney center-pull calipers. Hopefully, someone with
> some familiarity with these can help me out.
>
> 1) I wanted to limit the amount of lever travel, so I set
> them up so the pads would ride just off the surface of
> the rim. In order to allow room for micro-adjustment on
> the barrels, I did this by squeezing the calipers
> closed while bolting the yoke onto the cable. This
> worked out just fine -- I was left with enough thread
> on the barrels to complete the adjustment. HOWEVER --
> this position makes it impossible to disengage the
> caliper when I want to remove the wheel. I simply can't
> close the calipers enough to remove the yoke from the
> straddle cable. Do I need to loosen them up and just
> live with the longer lever travel, or does anyone know
> of any other tricks to solve this problem?
>
Many brake levers from those days had quick releases. At the
top end of the brake lever a metal plate moves so that when
the lever is released it moves farther in and releases more
cable. These levers should be available cheap from garage
sales or thrift stores (although you may have to buy the
whole bike).

Of course, you have to be able to squeeze the levers enough
to move the metal plate and if your clearances are real
tight you may not be able to do this.

You can always just deflate the tire enough to get it
between the brake pads.

Tom

 

[David White]

Rivendell still has some brake levers as described below.
NOS. See
http://rivendellbicycles.com/webalog/brakes/15101.html.
This is how I'd go rather than trying to cut a new slot in
the caliper.

Thomas Reynolds wrote:

> [email protected] (U.S. Blues) wrote in message
> news:<[email protected]>...
>
>>I've recently installed on my old 27" road frame a NOS set
>>of Tourney center-pull calipers. Hopefully, someone with
>>some familiarity with these can help me out.
>>
>>1) I wanted to limit the amount of lever travel, so I set
>> them up so the pads would ride just off the surface of
>> the rim. In order to allow room for micro-adjustment on
>> the barrels, I did this by squeezing the calipers
>> closed while bolting the yoke onto the cable. This
>> worked out just fine -- I was left with enough thread
>> on the barrels to complete the adjustment. HOWEVER --
>> this position makes it impossible to disengage the
>> caliper when I want to remove the wheel. I simply can't
>> close the calipers enough to remove the yoke from the
>> straddle cable. Do I need to loosen them up and just
>> live with the longer lever travel, or does anyone know
>> of any other tricks to solve this problem?
>>
>
> Many brake levers from those days had quick releases. At
> the top end of the brake lever a metal plate moves so that
> when the lever is released it moves farther in and
> releases more cable. These levers should be available
> cheap from garage sales or thrift stores (although you may
> have to buy the whole bike).
>
> Of course, you have to be able to squeeze the levers
> enough to move the metal plate and if your clearances are
> real tight you may not be able to do this.
>
> You can always just deflate the tire enough to get it
> between the brake pads.
>
> Tom

 

[Davek]

Thomas Reynolds:
> Many brake levers from those days had quick releases. At
> the top end of the brake lever a metal plate moves so that
> when the lever is released it moves farther in and
> releases more cable.

I could hit myself. For years I've had exactly this kind of
brake set-up and I never even realised that the levers had
this quick-release function - I noticed they had the metal
plate but I never guessed it actually did anything useful.

> These levers should be available cheap from garage
> sales or thrift stores (although you may have to buy
> the whole bike).

Well, I just recently upgraded my brakes to aero levers and
dual-pivots so I have the old Weinmanns going spare
(calipers and levers) - I'd be happy to come to some
arrangement with the OP if he's interested.

> You can always just deflate the tire enough to get it
> between the brake pads.

That's what I always used to do. I much prefer the new
arrangement though - I've got the Exage levers with a little
button on the side, and when released they give quite a bit
of extra space between the calipers. Braking performance is
noticeably improved too - I don't have to pull nearly as
hard on the levers when I want to brake hard.

d.

 

[Hal]

"davek" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thomas Reynolds:
> > Many brake levers from those days had quick releases. At
> > the top end of the brake lever a metal plate moves so
> > that when the lever is released it moves farther in and
> > releases more cable.
>
> I could hit myself. For years I've had exactly this kind
> of brake set-up
and
> I never even realised that the levers had this quick-
> release function - I noticed they had the metal plate but
> I never guessed it actually did anything useful.
>
> > These levers should be available cheap from garage
> > sales or thrift stores (although you may have to buy
> > the whole bike).
>
> Well, I just recently upgraded my brakes to aero levers
> and dual-pivots so
I
> have the old Weinmanns going spare (calipers and levers) -
> I'd be happy to come to some arrangement with the OP if
> he's interested.
>

OP here (from different account).

Thanks, but I'm OK with my current Frankenbike set-up. Until
I get myself into better shape, I've replaced my drop bars
and aero levers with flat bars, and a nice set of sort-of-
vintage Deore DX levers (the push-push kind that Sheldon
says people don't like).

> > You can always just deflate the tire enough to get it
> > between the brake pads.
>
> That's what I always used to do. I much prefer the new
> arrangement
though -
> I've got the Exage levers with a little button on the
> side, and when released they give quite a bit of extra
> space between the calipers.
Braking
> performance is noticeably improved too - I don't have to
> pull nearly as
hard
> on the levers when I want to brake hard.
>
> d.

I'll experiment, but I think I'll probably just learn to
live with a bit more lever travel.