wheel dishing correction?

[G.Daniels]

IF,when done, the dish is too far to the right over on the
cassette side, is it possibleor effective without
compromise to just tighten the other side to bring the dish
the other way say an 3/16" or less. Tightening that other
side would then bring my rims torque on the non-cassette
side up a to a more acceptable level. or does "cheating"
caws: 1) the rim to tilt over too much or 2) go out of
radial round or 3)....??

 

[daveornee]

Originally posted by G.Daniels
IF,when done, the dish is too far to the right over on the
cassette side, is it possibleor effective without
compromise to just tighten the other side to bring the dish
the other way say an 3/16" or less. Tightening that other
side would then bring my rims torque on the non-cassette
side up a to a more acceptable level. or does "cheating"
caws: 1) the rim to tilt over too much or 2) go out of
radial round or 3)....??

Yes, it is acceptable.
You should check the true, tension balance, and care for spoke wind-up on the non-drive side as you do it.
I suggest you try tightening the non-drive nipples in 1/4 turn increments.... overshoot by a 1/2 turn or more to insure you remove wind-up... in other words, tighten 3/4 turn and loosen 1/2 turn each spoke on the non-drive side. Check the wheel for true, centering, tension balance per-side... and repeat as required. This process is quite normal in finishing a wheel. Usually tension balance and radial true does NOT change much in the final stages of centering.. and neither does the lateral truing.

 

[Zog The Undenia]

g.daniels wrote:

> IF,when done, the dish is too far to the right over on the
> cassette side, is it possibleor effective without
> compromise to just tighten the other side to bring the
> dish the other way say an 3/16" or less. Tightening that
> other side would then bring my rims torque on the non-
> cassette side up a to a more acceptable level. or does
> "cheating" caws: 1) the rim to tilt over too much or 2) go
> out of radial round or 3)....??

You should also loosen the spokes on the cassette side by a
similar amount. A dishing tool really helps (I've made them
out of scrap materials in the past).

 

[Paul Kopit]

On Thu, 27 May 2004 18:59:53 +0100, Zog The Undeniable
<[email protected]> wrote:

>You should also loosen the spokes on the cassette side by a
>similar amount. A dishing tool really helps (I've made them
>out of scrap materials in the past).

Not in my experience. Turns to tighten on the non drive side
move the rim more toward that side than than a turn to
loosen on the drive side.

 

[Marcus Coles]

g.daniels wrote:
> IF,when done, the dish is too far to the right over on the
> cassette side, is it possibleor effective without
> compromise to just tighten the other side to bring the
> dish the other way say an 3/16" or less. Tightening that
> other side would then bring my rims torque on the non-
> cassette side up a to a more acceptable level. or does
> "cheating" caws: 1) the rim to tilt over too much or 2) go
> out of radial round or 3)....??

I don't look upon that as cheating. As long as the rim is
not so stressed as being on the verge of tacoland you should
be OK. Bring the non drive side spokes tighter a quarter
turn per revolution keeping track of your progress by the
valve hole and the coat hanger clamped to the seatstay. Keep
an eye on it just in case something strange is happening as
you go, but I think you will be problem free.

One last thing, watch for the spokes extending beyond the
nipple heads. If this happens damage to the rim tape or tube
may occur. File or grind as necessary.

Don't forget to stress relieve, put your feet up hava beer.

Marcus

 

[Anthony Campbel]

On 2004-05-27, Zog The Undeniable <[email protected]> wrote:
> g.daniels wrote:
>
>> IF,when done, the dish is too far to the right over on
>> the cassette side, is it possibleor effective without
>> compromise to just tighten the other side to bring the
>> dish the other way say an 3/16" or less. Tightening that
>> other side would then bring my rims torque on the non-
>> cassette side up a to a more acceptable level. or does
>> "cheating" caws: 1) the rim to tilt over too much or 2)
>> go out of radial round or 3)....??
>
> You should also loosen the spokes on the cassette side by
> a similar amount. A dishing tool really helps (I've made
> them out of scrap materials in the past).

I have details of my self-built dishing tool, with drawings
and photo, on my website (www.acampbell.org.uk/cycling/).

Anthony

--
Using Linux GNU/Debian - Windows-free zone
http://www.acampbell.org.uk (book reviews and articles)
Email: replace "www." with "ac@"

 

[Qui Si Parla Ca]

datakroll-<< IF,when done, the dish is too far to the right
over on the cassette side, is it possibleor effective
without compromise to just tighten the other side to bring
the dish the other way say an 3/16" or less. >><BR><BR>

A guy that used to work for BPP/DT, Tim Breen, who taught
the DT wheelbuilding course, taught you to build the right
side completely, round, true and tensioned, but not
dished. Then 'pull' the rim over to dish w/o touching the
right side, but tightening the left side spokes.. Tough to
do, but you can correct dish with left side tension alone
w/o problem.

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali
costruite eccezionalmente bene"